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Bentworker last won the day on December 27 2020

Bentworker had the most liked content!

About Bentworker

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    71' Grande project.


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  1. I am no grant wheel expert but did you follow the two wire setup shown in these instructions?
  2. have a pic of the horn button itself? They need an isolated contact - IE one side cannot be grounded.
  3. I’d do axle bearings while you are at it. Maybe the brakes? Send the driveshaft out to have the balance checked post u-joint replacement? If you pull the housing use new u-bolts. Chromoly axles? 31 spline axles and carrier? Save some weight with an aluminum 3rd member? Nodular iron 3rd member for strength? Maybe a torque biasing or limited slip differential? If you hate yourself how about a Detroit locker? Maybe upgrade to 1350 size yoke? How about a new driveshaft to pair with that larger yoke, maybe carbon fiber or aluminum? How are your rear springs / shocks? Maybe some sort of traction bar? Coilover system?
  4. Got something else weird to add to the grab bag. A used fuel sender with the 3/16” return line for a 429. D1ZF-9275BA
  5. Nice! Glad to hear you are getting it sorted. It is worth coming up with a tuning kit for the carburetor platform you run. Takes the frustration out of it when you have all the bits. My Holley / Demon kit.
  6. Installed a fuel pressure regulator. Actually took a fair amount of tinkering to cram it in there.
  7. I'd buy it again. They have a funky distinct look to them. Now that I have replaced / refurbished every bit of the driveline I enjoy driving it. It is secure - yet has enough horsepower to be sketchy. I do not enjoy Concurs based restoration based work, so for me owning a highly desirable (high value) classic would be foolish. For me I want modern radial tires, excellent brakes, excellent suspension and a heaping spoonful of horsepower in my cars. If I was to have something else it would probably be something like a 1970's BMW 2002, International Scout 80/800, Jeepster Commando, Datsun 510, BMW CSL...
  8. Slap some Nord Lock washers under your header bolts and be done with loose bolts. https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/
  9. I’d do an as-found timing test and report. Measure the initial and total timing. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose. You may have to turn your idle screw up a bit to get it to run. Measure the timing at idle- that is the initial. Rev the engine and record the peak advance- that is your total. With a stock distributor you may have to rev it upwards of 4,000 RPM. Be mindful of fingers and cables, the belts and fan are closer than you think when the engine is running.
  10. https://streetortrack.com/brakes/disc-brake-conversion-kits/street-or-track/street-or-track-11-25-front-disk-brake-kit
  11. Rule # 1 with the timing light - mind the fan and belts. They will mess up a timing light and remove fingers in an instant. Before you start get a good look with a flashlight and plan where you are going to place the timing light, wires, hands etc. Do you need a guide on how to use the light / adjust timing? Also what distributor and camshaft do you have? Got $300 sitting around to buy a wide band Air fuel ratio gauge and pay an exhaust shop to weld a bung in? Tuning is way easier if you know what your AFR is in real time. Best $300 you will spend
  12. I took the car out for a 40 mile drive yesterday. Got it home and decided that I'd lock out the vacuum advance and go only mechanical to give that a try. Took apart the distributor today, installed the vacuum advance delete kit and set my initial timing about 14 degrees / 34 all in. Probably take it for a cruise later today and see how it goes. My cam is moderately spicy at 279/289 duration that is why I'm giving 14 degrees initial a go on the Cleveland.
  13. Copy - I missed what you were testing... I thought you were testing to see if the Phosphoric acid weakened the welds, I missed the fact you were testing how effective it was at rust removal inside the lap joint. Now I get it - facepalming now.
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