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Everything posted by Bentworker

  1. Did you ever get a chance to drop them in the mail? The tracking info from 10 days ago still shows them as label created.
  2. I have shorty headers and can drop the box out the bottom. For 1sostatic…
  3. Try sponging some phosphoric acid on it and keep it wet (with additional phosphoric acid) for 20 minutes or so and wipe it off. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowe’s in the concrete section. It won’t eat the metal, but I have seen it offer a different shade of grey where stampings were.
  4. Measuring spindle nut torque with an inch pound wrench or going with the finger tight method? Personally I believe it is better to run bearings a little tight vs loose. Sometime during bearing replacement the races are not fully seated. Driving a bit can result in the races seating and the bearings loosening up. If it was my car I’d tighten the spindle nuts a bit (max 5 foot pounds) then go for a drive. If you don’t have one already an infrared thermometer is a great tool for things like this. Too little preload and the bearings can beat themselves up from play. Too much preload and they can also self destruct from overheating. If you have them tight enough that there is no play, and they don’t get too warm you should be good to go. If the infrared shows your hub to be about ambient temp plus 20 degrees F or so I’d call it good. A lot of other wheel bearing applications that are bigger like the Dana Spicer solid axles run tons of preload wirh no ill affect.
  5. The AED blocks I have don't have adjustable power valve restrictors. Once I get the carb closer I do have a Proform metering block which does have adjustable PVCR if I want to mess with them. Hopefully next weekend I'll get some time to play with the carburetor more, go for a drive, and repeat!
  6. At the moment it is about 12.5:1 - 13:1 at idle. Low speed cruise (30-40mph) varies 14:1-16:1. Highway cruise (70mph) is pretty fat at around 12.5:1 again. WOT is about 11:1 - 12:1. My WOT was about 14:1 and I jumped a few main jet sizes, I plan on splitting the difference between where I was and where I am. Making small steps towards it running better. Honestly putting an AFR meter on it was an excellent thing to do. It is so much easier than basing decisions off of plug reads alone.
  7. I'm making progress. I was able to get my idle leaned out a bit to where your eyes don't burn standing behind the car. I took it out for a rip with the AED blocks. I left them alone except for making a new set of idle fuel restrictors that were .031" Idle air bleeds are now .076". The idle mixture screws now function how one would expect them to. I was so convinced that the car was running fat at WOT that I jetted it down. After rolling around with an AFR meter on the car I realized that it was not the case. My vacuum is slightly better than I thought it would be, so I am going to go from a 4.5" power valve to a 5.5" power valve, along with bumping the jet sizes up. Once the car cools down I'll play "lets spill gasoline" and swap the jets. It is getting real close - runs great cruising at an economical AFR, idles at a reasonable AFR, and drivability is excellent. I matted the go pedal a few times and was ecstatic with how it behaves!
  8. As far as gluing the skin of the hood / trunk back on. I played around with an old hood taking it apart to make a cowl hood out of it. The factory adhesive was cream colored and the consistency of a racket ball. It could be released with a heat gun. Figured if I ever had to glue one back together I would drill small holes (using a drill with a stop collar to avoid damaging the skin) through the bracing. Then get some sealer that was pretty thin and inject it through the holes.
  9. Burns are no fun, you’ll be back to doing the things you enjoy before you know it.
  10. http://www.metaldipping.com/our-process.php
  11. I don’t recall how long the regulator is in mine. Here is a pretty good article on them. http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/2013/powersteeringmods/ 73’ Mach 1 - Inside the control valve there is a torsion spring / bar. It controls feel, I was referring to the diameter of it. When you have a steering shop upgrade the control valve that is what they are changing.
  12. I have a Saginaw canned ham style pump and have it set about 850 psi max. You should be able to pull the high pressure line off the pump, then use a socket to remove the bulkhead fitting that seals against the can. Inside is the pressure regulator (length controls pressure, shorter is higher pressure, longer is lower pressure. Also the flow restrictor which kind of regulates GPM. I would de-tune your pump a bit because it is cheap and easy (just takes some washers) Also get your current caster and toe alignment numbers to make sure it isn’t making the car feel off. Worst case you pull the steering box and do an control valve swap. I have a .210” bar in mine and it offers plenty of feel and feedback. The stock one is about .180” Good luck with it, Peter
  13. I chemically stripped my car (back when you could get good stripper) and then media blasted it with a fine glass bead. I am convinced that my car will trickle out tiny bits of glass bead forever- even though I did everything I could to blow it out of every possible place. If I could do it over again I would have put it on a trailer and driven it 5 hours to the dipping place. Having the car shell itself (and maybe your doors if you choose to use them) is a massive labor saver. The fact that everything will be clean bright metal will reduce repair time and make it a whole lot cleaner for the shop doing the work. It will also show every flaw, which will allow you to take all the damage in at once and do a final reality check on what it will take to make your car a car again. As for the Hood and trunk lid, I would not have them dipped because it is probably easier and cheaper to replace than repair. The trunk lid shows rust on the outside, and I cant imagine your hood is much better. Both of those can be found in much better shape used, or repop new. I don't think the dip would remove the putty / goo that is used to connect the inner and outer stampings but that is a good question for the dipping place. The videos the dipping place in Oregon has produced show that much of the putty / filler remover is done mid dip, where they pull the shell out and use a high power pressure washer to blow all that stuff off once loosened. My impression from what I saw is that the material inside the hood and trunk would remain as they can't really get to it with the pressure washer / scrapers.
  14. I’ll take them if you can get me some close up shots of the drivers side one.
  15. Performed some surgery on the old Barry Grant speed Demon carb. It did not have adjustable air bleeds. After some drilling and tapping it now does.
  16. Might be worth your time to find a good hydraulic shop and enlist some help from folks that work on that stuff everyday.
  17. Most of the Barry Grant carbs have the "Idle-eze" feature which is an adjustable air bypass. It is like drilling holes in the butterflies, but is adjustable. You pull out the 5/16" air cleaner stud and use a screwdriver to adjust this big needle like assembly that is in the center of the base plate. There are 4 channels from each of the carb bores on both sides of the butterfly that are plumbed to this adjustable needle valve. It is kind of cool, I took the carb apart to see how the heck it worked. I was about ready to drill the butterflies as I have a 279/289 duration camshaft on my 379" Cleveland. Luckily I figured out the Idle-Eze before I broke out the drill. I was able get satisfactory results with about 3 turns on the "idle-eze". There is some serious black magic to this whole carburetor thing!
  18. I am making baby steps tuning my car. Carburetor is a 15 year old Barry Grant Speed Demon 750CFM. I have been beating my head against the wall trying to lean it out at idle, but maintain good manners. If it is rich at idle the manners are great, if I lean it out I get a stumble rolling into the throttle. I used a more aggressive accelerator pump cam and it improved a bit. I decided to try some different metering blocks, so I could have an adjustable idle feed restrictor and rule out any issues with the old Barry Grant ones (they were known for some QC issues before they closed up in 08'). Oddly enough all the metering blocks were pretty similar when it came to Idle feed restrictor and power valve channel restrictor. Where the blocks varied (other than ability to swap jet sizes) was the emulsion bleed hole size / quantity. Figured I'd share the as-found measurements on the AED and Proform metering blocks along with one off an OLD street demon. Proform - Nice machining - uses 6-32 jets for the emulsion, power valve and idle feed. The emulsion has 8 ports total, 2 blocked off as shipped, remaining 6 are .028". Idle restriction is .035" Power valve restriction is .055" AED - Nice machining - uses brass 8-32 X 3/16" set screws as jets for the idle feed. The set screws are much cheaper than the 6-32 jets which is kind of cool. Emulsions and power valve holes are not adjustable, but the way the block is machined you could tap the emulsions and block them off with a set screw if it was desired to block or change the size of it. The emulsion has 10 ports total, all about .027". Idle restrictor is .035". Power valve restriction is .052" Crusty old zinc Barry Grant block- machining is not fantastic, idle restrictor holes are pretty rough. Nothing is adjustable. 6 emulsions that are .031" in diameter. Idle restrictor is .033" Power valve is .058" I plan on giving the AED blocks a try and will report back on what I find.
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