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Everything posted by Bentworker

  1. Governor anti-stick spring was from Cobra transmission parts. https://cobratransmission.com/a404-a670-spring-governor-anti-stick-200129-1 The captured governor spring I used was the stronger black spring out of a Transgo SK 700-Jr kit for a 700R4 (cut the spring in half where the coils are touching each other, use the shorter half). It had a seat pressure of about 2.25 pounds while the stock spring was about 1.5 pounds. I think you could also use the anti-stick spring out of the Transgo kit (in Liew of buying one from Cobra), but the wire gauge is thicker, and may require machining the governor a bit to make up for the added thickness of the collapsed spring. The AOD's use a stiffer spring along with a lighter governor to raise WOT shifts. Unfortunately the AOD governor guts are different enough that they don't interchange with the FMX. I bought the high RPM kit for an AOD and reverse engineered it to apply to an FMX. Don't go buying a Transgo AOD- HIRev kit and expect it to be of any use on an FMX. Machining the governor itself to lighten it is a bear. It is case hardened and requires carbide tooling. I machined a recess into the outward end of the gov with a 17/64" carbide ball mill after I drilled it with a .110" drill (drilled all the way to the center "spool" I also used a parting tool on the lathe to cut a groove in it. The 6 holes around the perimeter of the spool were cut with a 9/64" carbide endmill. I may be talked into doing some for folks on the forum, but the tooling and time is not cheap. With mine at full weight (about 16 grams) it shifted at 5K, with the weight reduction to about 11 grams it shifts at 6K. These numbers are with a Transgo 37-1 kit installed in the transmission and a lightly spicy converter.
  2. Took it out for a full throttle rip getting on the freeway. Got the blood pumping! IMG_5427.MOV
  3. Success. Shifts right around 6,000 RPM and makes me wish I had more traction. IMG_5427.MOV
  4. Running at idle for a while- or are you getting it above 2000 RPM?
  5. That is disappointing. I know Mike starts and knocks off early. Might try calling the shop between 6 or 7 am and 2 pm PST. They should be responding to emails, but it does not surprise me that they are not.
  6. Try emailing Mike for info… https://mikemaierinc.com/products/64-73-mustang/front-suspension/64-73-mustang-big-pin-spindles/
  7. Are you pressure washing your engine bay or something? Also- when are you checking voltage? Most one wire setups won’t start generating any power until the engine is revved a bit to flash the field.
  8. Will do. So far I have a Transgo 37-1 shift kit in it. With that alone it shits 1-2 and 2-3 at 5000 RPM WOT. I installed a Governor anti-stick spring (aftermarket) and drilled a 3/16” hole in the end that may have removed one gram. That got me up to about 5150 RPM WOT. Below is a pic of what got me to 5150 RPM. I am hoping the one I just machined gets me somewhere in the 5500-6000 RPM range.
  9. Still on the quest to make my FMX shift later I put the Governor on a diet. Took it from 16 grams down to 11. Standard on the right- high RPM on the left… Weather is too wet to take it out for a drive - hopefully next weekend I can test it out and report back.
  10. Might be more the wording of the question. A quick read of it by someone may lead to the impression you are not working on a 71-73. The way the heater box is on an AC car you may be able to sneak the harness over it between the box and the lower cowl itself. How far apart do you want to take things? How big is the harness and plug?
  11. As a beginner carburetor tuner myself I have a few suggestions. Buy a vacuum gauge if you don't have one. Buy a timing light where you can advance the strobe and it has an advance display. Get an exhaust shop to weld in a bung for an O2 sensor, and install an Air Fuel Ratio gauge (temp install is fine, mine plugs into the cigarette lighter). Having those tools at your disposal will make your tuning experience far less frustrating. My car had some drivability issues, and with the help of some tools and knowledgeable folks it now rips, and has manners.
  12. FWIW - The general consensus is that the 5/16" / 7/16" diameter pins on the factory steering coupler were chosen to make the column to steering box connection foolproof. It rejects installation 180 degrees out. If the choice is between a Scott Drake coupler with the correct diameter but too short pins, or a Lares with the incorrect diameter but correct length pins I'd choose the Lares every time. The Lares coupler still offers a connection between the driver and the road if the coupler rubber disk fails. Only catch with it is that you have to me mindful not to assemble 180 degrees out.
  13. Many a lower quarter panels have been patched. The Spectra / American patch panels are not that bad, and they are inexpensive. Trunk drops are also cheap, but there are two flavors - mediocre (they have the wrong size hole for the fuel sender) and worse (not even close). Really I'd get to practicing butt welding sheetmetal, and once you are comfortable go for the repair. Somewhere buried in the forum is some pictures from when I did my car.
  14. A follow up- I got my plates back from finishyourplates. I'd use them again- excellent finish.
  15. The pictures a few posts above are of my 71' I know the history of the car since new and know that the rear was never hit or repainted - so that shows what rolled off the line. It was the first 71' to hit the local Ford dealer. Unfortunately I never took any measurements showing vertical height, only horizontal spacing.
  16. You have to go Harry and the Henderson’s themed with that thing for Halloween. Put some pillows on the roof with a Bigfoot head sticking out the front. Strap a blue tarp over it and call it done!
  17. If for some reason you can’t give it away I’d like the Governor out of it.
  18. Did a little tuning on my FMX- and took it out for a drive. All the tinkering is paying off.
  19. Today I swapped my vacuum modulator / throttle control valve. Learned some things along the way. 1) Color (blue / green / etc) is a general indicator of how the vacuum servo will function, there still seems to be a lot of variability between manufactures. 2) A more radical camshaft / lower engine vacuum works better with a green vacuum modulator / throttle control valve. 3) The adjustment (in the adjustable ones) moves the stationary spring inside. It does not change the input to the throttle valve during WOT. All the adjustment does is alter the point where the servo starts to move. IE- If you took a green servo (vacuum modulator / throttle control valve) out of the box that started to move at 6" and was all in by 15" you could turn the adjuster in clockwise by a couple turns and alter it to start to move at 6" and be all in by 17"... 4) The green servos start to move at 6-7" of vacuum, and are all in by 15-16" vacuum. 5) The blue servos start to move around 10-11" of vacuum and are all in by 19-21" vacuum. 6) The distance from tip of the pin that interfaces with the throttle valve in the transmission to the face of the vacuum modulator/ throttle control valve seems to vary a bit. All the ones I had had the pin pocket in the movable diaphragm about .445" deeper than the machined face of the 3/4" hex where it seals up against the transmission case with a small round gasket. There was one exception where the distance was about .100" less, and I was too chicken to run it as It shifts plenty hard at WOT. This distance will alter how it interfaces with the throttle valve under WOT when there is very little engine vacuum. There is no adjustment for this, other than making a longer or shorter pin, or possibly using thicker gasket / copper washer. With my blue servo low engine vacuum it was running around with higher pressures most of the time. That resulted in me feeling downshifts as I was rolling to a stop. With a green servo that all went away and it feels perfect. Nice light low throttle shifts, not discernable jerk as it is slowing to a stop but still rock hard shifts when I have the pedal flat to the floor. Feels pretty frisky now. Anyway if you have lower vacuum at idle (10" ish I highly suggest a green)
  20. Looking closer at my pics it looks like the T was a little to the right. I would have never noticed!
  21. Also - If there is a home beer brewing supply place near you carboy cleaning brushes work well to clean out the housing tubes.
  22. When you find a good one be sure to share!
  23. Who wields the magical power to accomplish that?
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