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Spechti

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Posts posted by Spechti

  1. Thanks, guys.

    The car including the complete drivetrain was restored 3 years ago. It got new mounts for engine and trans. I have a replacement mount left over and can change it for testing.

    I also have obtained a transmission vibration damper from another FMX which I can test. That is some kind of foot-long arm with a weight on it. It is mounted to the flat 3-bore part on the lower trans extension housing.

  2. Hi there,

    after exploring in different directions, I still have some vibrations in the drivetrain. The vibration is rpm-related, not speed-related. So I can for the most exclude the driveshaft, axles an tires. A strong suspect goes way to the transmission, flexplate, torque converter.

    I have a complete set of parts here, including another rebuilt FMX as well as a new Pioneer flexplate with 164 teeth and 28 oz. imbalance and a new balanced torque converter.

     

    I plan to replace the whole trans assembly and want to do this from below the car. The 71 Mach 1 has a dual exhaust with a crossover tube on height of the slip yoke.

    Can the transmission be removed from the car without unmounting the exhaust System?

    Experiences?

     

    Michael

  3. Hi Totalled,

    that's exactly what I experienced with my Pioneer balancer. Vibration got worse with it on the engine. Changed back to the original Ford part. It is better, but not gone. Got a second, used FMX with a new Boss Hog TQ and new flexplate. Will change them in the spring.

     

     

    The harmonic balancer may also be a candidate for the vibration. It was also changed during engine rebuild. It is from pioneer.

     

    I had a pioneer on my engine.. And it had a vibration. I swapped the stock dampener on, and it got better.

  4. I have the same on my 71. I was retrofitted with compcams magnum hydraulic roller cam, Crane hydr roller lifters, crane hardened pushrods, comp beehive springs, stainless valves.

    I have a slight tick in the valvetrain when the engine is cold. After a mile of driving the noise is gone completely an does not come back until the engine stands cools down.

     

    My suspicion is that the valve springs I selected are too hard and give too much load on the valvetrain. I will change them next year for the same style of springs with a lower springload.

  5. Hi there,

    I have followed this interesting thread for a while. Accidentally I found this car at the Florida-located company RAGTOPS". I was on their premises some years ago and remember they had very nice cars in their inentory. The car shown for sale is a red 1973 convertible with a 351 2V engine.

     

    It has a plaque on the center console identifying it as an award car handed from Lee Iaccocca to the (in 1973) very successful Ford dealer Sam Marshall of Marshall Ford in Cleveland. The plaque states that it is the last 1973 Mustang of the assembly line in Dearborn. It carries the sequence number 262956 which makes it a possibility that this could really be the last car of the 1973 breed.

     

    Does anyone have serious doubt that Lee Iaccocca - who reportedly hated the "fat pigs" - gave one as an award to a promoted dealership? This is the part of the story I have problems to believe...

     

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  6. I did not have good experiences with a repacement damper. During engine overhaul I changed the original for a Pioneer 872027 bought from summit with a 28oz imbalance. After reassembly and startup of the renovated Cleveland it ran with a vibration. After replacing the Pioneer again with the old OEM part the vibration was gone.

     

    So I think that not every damper that fits on a Cleveland and is advertised for it by the manufacturer oes really run good.

     

    Did anyone have the same experience after replacing the old balancer?

  7. I must admit I am not the Cliff-Richard-guy, but thanks for the moodful video. My heart is more with AC/DC (a wink to Australia), Guns n' Roses or Waylon Jennings when I'm on the road. When it comes to "romantic" tunes, I like Willie Nelson or Dean Martin. And I don't like Autobahn driving, I am more used to scenic or country roads which the Mustang likes more. Northern Germany has lots of them and you alway find a nice one to cruise along.

     

    About the blue, my friends call the car "the Blue Pearl", I guess it is a tribute to the ship of Jack Sparrow, sorry, Captain Jack Sparrow.

     

    Michael; where's ya spoiler!

    It is in the garage. Not yet painted. Mounting holes are already in the valance panel. I could not yet convince myself to install it. It is a controverse topic and a bit polarizing.

  8. Hey guys,

    I had some requests and appreciation comments on the color of the car. It is true that the blue catches the eye, especially when the car is parked in the sun. There is a special "glow" to it which is not in the factory acapulco blue. That is true.

     

    I did not exactly reproduce the original color, although it was my first intention to make the car as close to its former factory look as possible. First doubts came when I put a lot of the interior repro parts and repainted parts next to the color swatches with the acapulco blue. There was some "bite" and some disharmony in the colors. So I picked more color swatches from my painter and expermented further with a good friend with safe taste having all the upholstery and trim stuff on a table outside on a sunny day.

     

    We found the stunning color in the Glasurit color library and we both instantly agreed that this is THE color. It is a hue darker and greener than the factory blue, but shines a lot more.

     

    The Glasurit color code is MB764.00

    The Glasurit color code for the argent used is MA158.50

     

    I have some more pics that show the almost eletric glow in the sunshine. And some from the paint shop while the job was done.

     

    Best wishes

     

    Michael

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  9. Hi guys and fellow horsemen,

    a few weeks ago, I saw the nice autumn colors in the woods and took the Mach 1 for a spin out there. The canon cam on the passenger seat, I looked for nice photo locations. I found some nice colorful leaf beds southwest of Hamburg, germany and used the opportunity for some nice shots which I like to share with you. Have fun with them.

     

    Michael

     

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  10. I also have the big clock in my 71 Mach 1 converted to a tach by the Rocketman Bob and I am very happy with it. It works nicely, was easy to connect and the instructions that came with it were great.

     

    A future project will be the conversion of the triple center gauges of which only the oil pressure gauge seems to work properly. The ammeter seems to have no function and the temp gauge is very coarse in display.

  11. Hi everyone,

    a while ago I have wired the electric choke of my Edelbrock carb to the switched 12V of the ignition switch. Means the choke heats when the ignition comes on. This works, but if you leave the ignition on for some seconds, the choke begins to heat and to open. It is no problem when the engine is at temperature, but with a cold engine starting gets harder.

     

    Normally, I think the choke has to be wired to the alternator in a way that it only gets heated when the engine is running and the alternator gives power.

     

    Can somebody tell me which is the right terminal for this?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Michael

  12. The plug is aligned with the hole next to the stud and it can be drained through that hole. But as far as I remember, there are at least 2 opposite holes for the drain plug on the flexplate. You can mount the converter in at least two positions, 180° apart from each other.

     

    The converter was changed due to trans overhaul and a groove in the shaft. I will remove the four nuts and push it back...

     

    The harmonic balancer may also be a candidate for the vibration. It was also changed during engine rebuild. It is from pioneer.

  13. Hi guys,

    I reinstalled the FMX into my Mach 1 about a year ago and I guess I mismatched the relationship of torque converter and flexplate when bolting them together (at least, is there a given relationship at all and does it matter?). I feel a slight vibration when revving up.

    Can the TQ be unbolted, pushed back to get the studs out of the flexplate holes and be rotated to the next hole without unbolting the bellhousing?

     

    Michael

  14. I had the same problem when I installed the new dual exhaust system on my 71 Mach 1, 351C. I was shocked how loud the turbo mufflers were that came with the kit. I instantly realized that the freshly restored car would never pass technical inspection with those things when applying for registration.

    I read a little bit on the web and decided to try it with a pair of Walker 17190 SoundFX mufflers. I ordered them from Rockauto for $40 each.

    The car passed inspection and is registered for traffic now, they sound nice and powerful and the car drives with a very acceptable sound level inside when on the road.

     

    A slight modification to the center pipes is neccessary because the Walker mufflers are a little longer than the mufflers from the exhaust kit, which I think is from Scott Drake. Approximately 2 inches have to be cut off the pipes to make the mufflers fit. Input/output dia is 2 1/4".

     

    My car also has a very good soundproofing with Dynamat and additional textile sound dampening material.

  15. When I bought my 1973 Lincoln Mark IV in Holt, Mich., the car was taken from the showroom and moved to a separate storage hall. Away from car buyer traffic.

    In there, it was parked next to a black 56 or 57 Chevy. The salesman told me, the car was bought some days earlier by Bob Seger. If that was true, the guy has some more nice cars...

  16. Spechti, did you mill the heads and changed cam shaft lift? Are you using stock length push rods?

    Yes, the camshaft is a Crane Cams hydraulic roller cam with .56 lift. I use Crane vertical bar hydraulic roller retrofit lifters. This combo needs custom pushrods in a length from approx. 7.80 to 7.85 inch. In my case, the 7.80 were the recommendation from Crane, but they were noisy and had too much slack. So I used the Crane rods in 7.85 inch length and the valvetrain is quiet now.

     

    The Scorpion rocker arms do not need guides, because they move only on one axis. They are also not adjustable. Adjustments only can be made by shims under the pedestal, head modification, valve tip modification or pushrod length.

     

    The Scorpion rocker arms also fit under the stock Cleveland valve covers. This means you can set up a highly advanced valvetrain in an externally totally stock appearing engine.

  17. Hi Guys,

    I have also used them on my 71 Cleveland 2V für the initial engine build after restoration. I removed them after a few days due to a geometry problem.

     

    They are advertised to have the stock ratio of 1:1.73, but in fact the contact point of the pushrod is closer to the pivot than with the stamped steel originals - which are also specified 1:1.73.

    There is no problem with valve lift, but on 4 of eight cylinders the pushrods scrape in the cylinder head openings. These need to be modified when you intend to use the Scorpions.

     

    Secondly, the contact point on the valve stem is not ideal (too far to the engine center). So there is also work to be done.

     

    Image 1:

    Here you can see how critical clearance is.

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    Image 2:

    Here is the normal configuration with the stock rockers.

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  18. Thanks for the comments, guys.

     

    The trans is filled with type F and I rebuilt it myself with all new parts. It shifts clean and smooth like it should.

     

    I have read the article and indeed the symptoms match the converter problem described. No noise in Park or Drive at idle. Also no noise in second or on acceleration at speed. Sound occurs when I put load on the trans in Drive, either with foot on the brake or on forced acceleration from standstill.

    Very much disturbing is the fact that it was a new/rebuilt converter I used. I got it from Torco Enterprises in California. When this part is defect, I have to remove the trans again to change the converter once more.:@

  19. Difficult to describe. The sound is a non-metallic creak, like it sounds when you go up an old wooden stairway. Or you rub a balloon with your thumb. Only occurs under load and only in 1st gear and in milder form in reverse.

     

    Today, I drove the car 20 miles. After driving some miles, the car felt like "freeing up" like all new overhauled machines when you put them back in operation. The sound was less present after the drive. Maybe the sound is also some kind of friction that has to come into order while in operation. I will have an ear on it.

     

    Here is the finished car after four years of restoration directly after the test drive.

     

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