Jump to content

Spechti

Members
  • Posts

    180
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Spechti

  1. Hi there, Today, I had my 71 Mach 1 out on the streets after a 4 year restoration. Got me a temporary registration. The road test was a disappointment. The front end alignment is far from perfect the Mallory ignition module toasted while starting up. I installed my spare distributor. Mostly annoying was the ugly noise from the freshly redone FMX under acceleration. Some kind of grunt on harder acceleration. It is only present in 1st on launch. 2 and 3 are quiet. Shifting is normal, up and down. I have readjusted the low/reverse band to make sure it is set correctly. It didn't make it better. Noise is still there. Fluid is Type F, 11 quarts in the trans. Does anyone have an idea what that could be?
  2. I used two spare tires from a Ford Probe/Mazda 626. They fit on the rear drums, but interfere with the dsc brake calipers at the front. Anyway, they were a nice help in moving the car around at the shop and in my garage.
  3. Hi, since it is illegal in the U.S. to tamper with these tags - even to replace the rivets - I guess it is the wrong address to ask someone in the U.S. Should be less problematic in Europe. I have seen a company on exhibition at the Bremen Classic Motor Show last year that makes tags of all kinds for classic cars. I can't remember the name, but it was a quite big booth on the show. I will look in the exhibitors list if I can find it.
  4. I think the rubber bumpers were never installed at the factory, especially not on the trunk rear lower shroud. The bumpers were planned to be used on the trunk lid but never made it into production. The dimples down there were the contact surfaces for the rubber bumpers on the lid when slammed. They were found unnecessary and the dimples were deleted from production around spring 1971. My Mach 1 is early September 70 and has the dimples in the metal and the holes for the rubber bumpers in the trunk lid, but no bumpers installed.
  5. I bought a new radiator some weeks ago. It is a Spectra Premium CU381. Material is copper net with brass tanks. Quality seems to be okay. Paid $170 plus overseas shipping. The part dropped right in without modifications. It has exactly the same dimensions as the part removed from the car with one exception: the old radiator was a 2-row, the new one is a 3-row, hence it has the same cooling capacity as the HD radiators. Michael
  6. During restoration, I have removed the whole dashboard assembly and took it apart. All metal parts were media blasted to the bare metal. The dashboard itself was then primered, fillered, sanded and painted in medium blue with satin clearcoat. The reinforcements, all of them, were zinc plated after blasting for corrosion protection. One of them is seen on the first photo lying across the cluster opening.
  7. The cover is just pushed over the roll-up mechanism. You need a liitle patience to fumble it off, but it works. It also helps to put the whole assembly on a warm radiator for half an hour or put it into the sun to make the plastic more workable.
  8. After the paint was stripped from my car, it was also obvious that the roof was too soft in structure to hold against sanding and other work - just like Q's car. One of the major weak points on many FoMoCo cars of that era. My Lincoln Mark IV has the same soft roof... The center roof support reinforcement was removed, sandblasted, re-painted and re-installed. Furthermore, four additional reinforcement stringers were custom fabricated from formed sheetmetal. They were welded in place. On the pics is the mock-up with pop rivets. Sharp edges were covered with a plastic edge protection after welding and painting. The roof now is super solid. It would even hold a light person standing on the roof without deforming it. The result is a laser-straight roof area. All work was done by a professional body shop.
  9. Since they do physically interfere with the horizontal bright trim, I think I will not install them. Does not look good. I glued oh the stripes because they add a sleek touch to the car and makes it optically longer. I know this combo was not available from the factory. Only dealer installed.
  10. Hi and a happy new year to everyone! I just got some new 71-73 bright repro fender lip mouldings on ebay for a nice bargain price. I clamped one of them for test fit to the front wheel opening and noticed that the horizontal moulding on the Mach 1 fender interferes with it. Now I wonder whether this combination was available from the factory on a Mach 1. Could the fender mouldings come on a car with the Mach 1 chrome strip (separating the upper from the lower color)? Or was the protection group - including the mouldings - only available on non-Mach 1 vehicles?
  11. On my 71 Mach 1, built Sept. 70, I recently rebuilt the front suspension. After removing the dirt and grase of 40+ years, I noticed that the color of the spindles was a very dark, dull gray. There was a pink and a white paint dab on them close tor the upper knuckle. The back plates were satin black.
  12. When installed correctly, the weatherstrip will compress within a few weeks and the trunk lid will close smoothly. The first few days are the hardest with the new rubber. Same for the door weatherstrips.
  13. Anyway, the number one topic on my wish list is a 71-72 urethane front bumper repro...
  14. Wow! Great to hear stuff is coming strong for our years of Mustangs. Only a matter of time when complete new bodies will be available for the 71-73 Mach1, like for the previous years...;) Unfortunately the bodywork on my car is all done and the project is almost finished, except engine, which wil hopefully drop back in the car this spring (it is in the machine shop at the moment). So I do not need any sheetmetal anymore for the next years. But I think they will be very helpful for others.
  15. No, it seems they are sold as a kit (upper and lower shell) for approximately $460 at dealers like NPD. When I checked some weeks ago, it wasn't there.
  16. Hi, I just saw this on the Dynacorn page. No more used cowl clip hunting on graveyards! The whole metal upper and lower shell including air funnels is now reproduced. Although it is the version for non-A/C cars, I am sure it can be easily modified for use on A/C Mustangs. 2 years too late for me (mine were custom manufactured by the metal workshop), but maybe right in time for the one or other among us! Happy motoring! Michael
  17. Problem is fixed. It was the fuse. Thanks for your help. Happy Fest everyone!
  18. Wow, a lot of good ideas for spring removal here! I did not make a tool for removal of mine (they are the heavy load ones for the NASA hood). I removed the hinges from the car an put them in the lowest tension position. I hooked them up with two steel ring chains between two apple trees behind the house. I started to twirl the chain with a screwdriver to shorten it and give the spring a pull. This even worked better with a block and tackle type hoist instead of the twisted chain. The springs are simply pulled between the trees and the hinge falls off when they are unloaded.
  19. Here is the proof.;) Look below the empty fuse slot.
  20. @everyone thanks for your help. I just checked the fuse box. The cigar lighter isn't working either. Seems the fuse is blown. The slot on the fuse box is labeled "emergengy flasher". There is no sign that this is for lighter and horn. Obviously Ford has changed the circuits at some point.
  21. Hi guys, now that I had all electrics back in the car up, tested and running after restoration and re-installation of the harness, since yeaterday the horns are not working any more. Before they worked as they should. I did not check the circuits yet, but the first thing I am about to check is the fuse for the horns. But in the Ford 1971 service manual, there is no "horn fuse" named in the fuse panel. Does anyone know which fuse is for the horns? Does the car even have a fuse for them? Car is a 71 Mach 1 with deluxe interior and rim blow wheel. Dual-tone stock horns. Michael
  22. From the factory, most our Mustangs were equipped with an Autolite 55 AMP alternator that ist externally regulated. The regulator is a box located on the right fender apron, close to the starter solenoid. Converting the car to an internally regulated alternator with a one-wire hookup is possible. The stock regulator will then have to go. Under normal driving conditions and with standard equipment, the car does not need 100 AMP to properly operate. If you have added power equiment and large stereo amplifiers, 100 AMP and more can make sense. To check the alternator performance and regulator condition do the following: Start the car and bring it to operating temperature. Hook up a Voltmeter to the alternator circuitry. Turn on as many power consumers in the car as possible, headlights, high-beam, blower, radio, interior lights, ... Observe the voltage. If it goes down significantly from 14 Volts, chances are high that your alternator or regulator are shot. If the fluctuation is only small, the regulator may be defective. Sometimes, mechanical regulators (used by Ford back then) begin to operate faulty when aging. They cannot compensate for quick changes in power demand any more. I had this twice on Ford cars. I fixed it by using an electronic regulator of high quality.
  23. Hi all, since the car is thorougly restored and the dropoff area is media blasted, epoxy primererd, painted and the lower part of them is protected with a wax, rust is not a problem. All gaskets, drain hole vents and trunk weatherstripping is new. Plus, the car is not being driven in rainy weather and is stored in a grarage all year long. I think I will fabricate a cover from Masonite or ABS plastic or fiberglass that the mat can lay on. I'll show pics when I have made a pair.
  24. Thanks for the hint. Do you know the item name for those boards or covers? Do you have a link or a picture?
  25. That's exactly the point. I do not want small things in the trunk to fall in there and become forgotten. I think, I will make some simple wood construction that will fit in there and place the mat on top. Here are some photos of the area as is. I will also post some more whe I have made a cover or reinforcement or whatever...
×
×
  • Create New...