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Everything posted by Spechti

  1. Hi guys, I have bought a burtex trunk mat from ACC for my Mach 1. The mat was originally not available for the Mach from the factory, but i think it was for the Grande Coupe. Since this stuff is very protective for the trunk floor, I chose the higher quality burtex mat over the cheaper vinyl one. It looks good when in the trunk, but I noticed the mat flapping down in the ouboard right and left trunk wells. Was there some kind of stiffening or cardboard used on the cars trimmed with the mat or with carpet to make it laying flat in those areas and not hanging down? Does anyone have a picture of the side areas on a carpet or mat equipped car? Thanks. Michael
  2. For spare tire purposes, I need a 15x6 standard Ford steel wheel like it was used on millions of 70s FoMoCo products. 5 x 4,5 bolt circle. Should be straight with no dings or heavy rust. Slight rust or dirt is okay, it will be media blasted an painted new. To keep shipping cost down, offers from our european members are preferred. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi Dallas, I can recommend a company that is specialized on refurbishing classic car leaf springs in Germany (Federnwerk Bischoff in Stassfurt). I guess it is not as costly to send them to Gemany for refurbishing as shipping some new heavy leaf springs from the U.S. via air freight. http://www.oldtimerfedern.de/ They have made very nice work on my Mach 1 springs, they even repainted them and greased them between the leaves. The cost for a complete overhaul and re-assembly was around 100 Euros per spring. Michael
  4. Hi Todd, these are afaik not reproduced and I have never seen one NOS on ebay or elsewhere in years. You can only hope on getting a nice used pair from a Mustang salvage yard or from dealers that also have used parts on hand like our Don from Ohio Mustang Supply here in the forum. Michael
  5. I have 2 good cores that can be refurbished. I wanted to get new ones because all other stuff on the car's suspension is also new or like new. If I can't get new ones of adequate quality, this is the only option. But isn't it poor that industry has come to this sad point? Do we really have to search wreckyards to acquire auto parts in a quality they used to have 20 years ago? By the way, brakes are important parts that allow no mistakes in manufacturing. When a fuel pump fails, the car rolls out to a halt (okay, it's a hassle when it is 200 miles from nowhere in a deep-freeze snowstom). But when brakes fail, you will probably lose your life...:s Michael
  6. Hi guys, a week ago I bought new disc brake rotors from ACDelco (Durastop). Before installing them on the car, I installed them on a spindle on the workbench and measured them with a dial gauge for runout, etc. Ford specifies a max. lateral runout of 0.003 inch for the 71 Mustang. The ACDelco discs both have a runout of 0.006 inch. Also the bolt circle is out of true and when I spin it by hand, I can clearly see it not running round also in radial direction. I contacted the seller (amazon) and got a refund. They did not even want the crap back. Now I have some nice boat anchors... Yesterday I bought some Raybestos Professional Grade Rotors from a local parts dealer. Looking into the box, they seem to be from the same manufacturer in China. Result on the bench for the Raybestos: one has 0.007 inch runout, the other is within tolerance with a runout of little over 0.002 inch. What are your experiences with brake rotors? It seems the whole scrap comes from China. Are there still brake manufacturers, that care about quality? Michael
  7. I have them in a test setup on one head here on the workbench for measurement and testing the geometry. They seem to be of high quality and precision. When I can trust my measuring, you can use all your stock stuff, as long as you dont change pushrod length or have very different lifters or valves. Possible valve lift depends more on the valve springs, retainers and shaft seals you use.
  8. Hi guys, when I got my Mach 1, the belts were not installed in the car, but clattering around in the trunk. They were in bad condition and now, close to the finishing line of the restoration, I had them completely re-webbed and tested in an aircraft belt workshop. I am a bit confused how to install the ront belt retractors. Were they mounted in an upright position from the factory or did they come in a forward rake to follow the run of the belt around the hips of the driver? To illustrate it better, I have made some photos, one for each position. From an inner feeling, I would mean to install them in a forward angle, because of the more clean running belt. But how much can the retractor be tilted from vertcal with still functioning properly? Images of Mach 1 interiors on the web show belts in various positions. So, that is no help.
  9. Thanks to Don. He has one for me. Thanks to everybody else for the friendly offers! Michael
  10. Hi, after disassembling the rearend of my 71 Mach 1, I found a nick on the sealing surface of the passenger side axle shaft. It is the longer one. It seems someone damaged it when trying to remove the bearing.:@ My axle is a stock original 9 inch, 28 spline, non-locking. If someone has a nice used shaft free of damage on the shelf, please offer. Michael
  11. Yes, it is a PITA and takes 15 minutes to fumble them back in place after each use - or they hang down and swing freely wherever they want... I guess the clip does not speed up the process significantly.;)
  12. Hi guys, I am fingering around with this chrome wire thingy I found in the glove box of my 71 Mach 1 when I got the car. I wonder what its purpose is and how it is used. Someone told me it had to do with the seat belts.
  13. Thanks, Don. Is there an experienced figure, how much to shorten them? Has somebody done this before and has a photo how it looks after modification?
  14. Hi, some time ago, I got my new repro rear bumper (a taiwan part) because the original was rusted, bent and dinged. I was really surprised that the repro part had a nicer chrome than the original, but material was thinner. Otherwise it looks good, fit and sit were quite okay with the exception that it has too much distance from the body with the original brackets which I used. I guess it should be at least half an inch closer to the body. Are the repro rear bumper brackets made to compensate for the larger gap with the repro bumpers? Will it bring the repro bumper closer to the body with repro brackets? Or is it better to modify some original brackets? Here are some pics.
  15. I finally found a trick to get it done. I lubed the rubber with aqua gel, put it in place and pressed it in with a beam of wood. I used the upper edge of the brake drum as a pivot. With the right amount of pressure and some massaging movement it slipped right in with a funny slurping sound.
  16. Today I tried to install two new rubber bumpers on the frame rails over the rear axle. The whole receptacle was media blasted, cleaned and painted with chassis black urethane. Prior to installation, I coated the upper part of the rubber slightly with vaseline and tried to press them in by hand. Whatever I did, I could not persuade them to slip into place. Dang! Did anybody of you do this before and has a recommendation, a tool hint or a tip how to do this? Thanks. Michael
  17. Correct for original or NOS parts. But I found out that the repro regulator assys have metric threads in the crank as well as in the mounting holes.
  18. I have found the problem. I removed the new Scott Drake ignition lock cylinder and put in an old original Ford lock cylinder. Et voilà, it moves smoothly through the positions, including ACC. A close inspection of the Drake cylinder shows that it is poorly made and when you put it in the LOCK position, it does not correctly line up with the detent marks of the mechanism. It is a few degrees out of tune. This is enough to make the whole thing inoperable. I was not able to adjust the ignition switch and the inner gear assembly to work properly with the Drake part. Does anyone have also experienced poor ignition lock fit or function with repro aftermarket locks? I think I will temporary use an old, good Ford cylinder and try to find a Ford NOS lock kit with all locks.
  19. You are right that headroom is really an issue on these cars, so it is better to have the seats as close as possible to the floor. I installed the headliner in my car a few weeks ago and realized the cabin gets really low when it's in. Even with the rods to the high positions. And with 1.82m I am not Chewbacca... But since the Mustang even in the Deluxe interior version has no seatback reclining option, tilting the whole seat 1/4 of an inch may give you a little comfortable adjustment to achieve your favorite seating position.
  20. Oh, I see, then they are not for a 71-73, they were only used up to 1970. Thanks for the exploded view drawing, by the way! I think, now that I have them, I will use them. They will relief the stress on the new carpets. Michael
  21. Hi guys, I am just installing the seats in my Mach 1. When I bought the car, there were no seat track plates to separate the tracks from the carpeting. I was told the cars had them from about 67 to 73, so i bought some. What is the exact purpose of these plates? a.) adjustment of seat tilt (I think they are stackable) b.) pressure distribution to avoid warps in carpet c.) protect carpet from sharp edges on seat track foot. d.) other reason I can't even imagine...:idea: Michael
  22. I have tested it. The ignition lock cannot be turned backwards from the LOCK position. There is no ACC position switchable. Everything else works, including the steering wheel lock. I have changed the ignition lock cylinder with a new one some time ago. The whole mechanism behind it was cleaned and lubricated. Is it possible I reassembled it in a wrong way, so that ACC is gone? When I assembled it, I rather had the impression it only could be assembled in one way.
  23. I was not aware the car has an ACC position. But now that you mention it... my Lincoln Mark IV has ACC on the ignition lock, so it is an obvoius conclusion the Mustang has it, too. I will go to the garage an check... Thanks for the help. Michael
  24. Hi guys, I am just doing the adjustments on the ignition switch on my 71 Mach 1 and I would like to know if the position OFF does have any electrical function regarding power for accessories. Or do the electrics and accessories of the car only come alive when ignition is switched to RUN and ignition on? Michael
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