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Everything posted by Spechti

  1. Returns are much easier when you live in the U.S., much more time consuming from Europe or Australia. It would be much easier for all parties involved if the part could be made in an acceptable quality from the beginning on. Sure, a part like a dash pad is not a space shuttle. But accurate cut vinyl, clean molds and some basic quality control can't be that difficult to handle. It also can't be in the interest of dealers and suppliers to handle all the returns (and I suppose there are many with all this inferior stuff). It adds to their work and cuts their profits to handle all this, but they are at least the guys that have the power to make some heat under the butts of the manufacturers...
  2. Blue door panels are manufactured by Dashes Direct and Scott Drake. The Drake ones claim to have the right grain. I can't say anything about the color. I have the ones from Dashes Direct. The grain is not 100% correct and the color is slightly off the rest of the medium blue interior, but acceptable. The lower carpet strip is also different from the ACC floor carpet. The quality of the door panels is acceptable, but not overwhelming. Plus: They are stiff. The backing is made of plastic. The vinyl is more robust and harder than the OEM material. They seem to have the right size to cover the door. Due to the fact that the dash cover from Dashes Direct is the same material, it matches the color and grain of it Minus: Trimming is necessary to the openings for the door handle, the screw holes for the pull and the holes for the chrome trim line. The panel hangs a little high on the door and this make a problem with the window crank opening and also with the fastener clips alignment to the holes. The panel has no hole for the lock knob. It has to be drilled. When stored upright standing at a wall, they tend to bend and under tension they are difficult to install. color doesn't match seat vinyl or carpet. By the way, i was very disappointed with the dash cover from DD. This was absolute crappy made and is of inferior quality. At the time I bought it, I did not know there is als a dash cover "made with Ford tooling". Is that any better? Michael
  3. I opened an return claim with the seller. In the meantime I can test the other option I have. An intermittent system including switch from a mid-80s F150. It also looks like a simple plug-in, but it is not. While the receptcle in the Mustang has 7 contacts, the pigtail plug coming from the intermittent governor only has 6. One is left open. I can get the Hi and Lo positions running, also wash, but no intermittent and no park yet. I keep testing...
  4. Hi guys, I recently bought an aftermarket retrofit delay wiper switch (see image) for 71-73 Mustangs. Since this is a plug-and-play device, there are no special secrets in installing it. Maybe aside from pinning the ground strap to the right point of the dash... I installed it on my 71 Mach 1, but when I turned the ignition key to RUN position, the switch only made a buzzing sound for a few seconds. Switching it had no effect. Only thing working is the washer pump when pressing on the knob. There is no wiping acion at all, neither in delay nor in low or high speed. Does anyone have the same switch installed in his/her 71 Mustang with 2-speed wipers and can provide experiences with it? Michael
  5. OK, thanks. Then I have to fabricate two by myself. They do not appear in any catalogs of the parts suppliers.
  6. Hi everybody, unfortunately, I can not remember whether there was a seal between the wiper pivots and the sheetmetal when I took the car apart. There is no such part in the catalogs of the suppliers for the 71, so I assume the was none. Right? Michael
  7. It is crucial to meet the correct height when re-installing it. When it sits half an inch to deep, the adjustment holes in the stiker will not be sufficient to move it far enough up to make the latch snap in when it is bolted back in place. I had this on my Mach 1 and I realized it after restoration in final assembly of the car. To avoid taking the support out again, weld and paint again, I made the adjustment slots in the striker a little longer to move it a little more upwards. It worked... Dont run into this. Measure twice and triple before taking things apart and weld them back together! Michael
  8. Hi Don, the lights (Ford jargon: sport lamps) come on with the headlamps. They are off with only the parking lights on. They have no serious function (i.e. as fog lamps or so). They are there just to look good... Michael (by the way, the trunk lid rods are in and do a nice job!:))
  9. I also have the FMX-done-by-Ken video and I found it helpful and it is made very nicely. Since there is not so much stuff on that trans out there, this is very welcome! Thanks Ken! Michael
  10. Ohio Mustang is a nice address for parts shipped ouside the USA. Don has an excellent service and knows a lot about our cars. I have also made good experience with NPD and Virginia Classic Mustang. Simple service spares like brake parts or spark plugs I order from Rockauto or Summit. I made not so good experience with Mustangs Unlimited. They are not bad, but hey sometimes have long backorder times and they do not always answer emails. So in certain cases you have no clue where your parts are. I had this on orders from them twice. CJ Pony parts was also helpful and had good service. Michael
  11. There is a shim with four distance pieces between the firewall sheetmetal and the pedal support box. This provides the necessary clearance not to squeeze the insulation pad. This is it. Photo was taken before sandblasting and zinc galvanizing for rust protection.
  12. I got a pair from Don. Great! Thank you, Don! Michael
  13. No, coupes and convertibles have other rods than fastbacks.
  14. I need a set of deck lid torsion rod springs for a Mach 1 with rear deck spoiler. Part numbers are D1ZZ-66344890-B and D1ZZ-6344891-B. Thanks, Michael
  15. Thank you for the pictures, Q! I have never seen one of those before. This means the old felts in the car also were repops and not OEM parts. With this information it is no question that there were no more screw holes to attach the lower felt. So i have to deal with it and find a solution for the problem. The car is not driven in bad weather and is kept clean and dry in a garage. So the repops will be of sufficient quality for this car. Thanks again! Michael
  16. Even in Europe the BFG Radial T/A have gone up in price significantly the last two years. Maybe this is because every month there are less tire manufacturers who make tires for the cars of the golden era. The ones who remain raise the prices because there are less competitors. At least it is mch more difficult to get tires for american cars here. I paid around 120 Euros for a BFG T/A 235/60R15 two years ago at a german tire dealer in Munich Today the same dealer offers the tire for a breathtaking 192 euros! (Prices are including sales tax) Michael
  17. The carburetor flange is the same on 2V od 4V carbs. So the air cleaner assembly will fit on both. The air cleaner shown will not work with the ram air system. The ram air has a unique air cleaner housing that makes contact to the underhood-mounted plenum chamber. This chamber is a huge part with two vacuum-operated flapper valves attached to the scoops in the NASA-hood. The contact area between the air cleaner housing and the plenum chamber is sealed with a rubber lip. The critical part in this configuration is the height of the manifold/carb arrangement. Is it too high, the air cleaner touches the plenum and the hood won't close. Is it too flat, there is no sufficient seal between the rubber lip and the plenum. Measure before buying parts - and measure exactly... Michael
  18. I was a little surprised to find it in the catalog, too. I never before or after saw it anywhere else. The lower felt kit looks exactly like the old parts I removed from the door, resp. fingered out of it. I think they are the originals. But like I said, there were no traces of glue (except from a bead of bathroom silicone) on the felts and only two little screw holes at the places shown. The lower one is not shown in the shop manual or parts manual. I still have not found out how this was attached. I have a problem to believe it was attached only with the two #8 screws. In this pic you can see the door with the two outer felts. One screw is approximately located in the area of the mirror, the other three inches behind the door lock knob. Here is the front screw hole (driver side mirror in background) The rear screw hole Maybe here can one place another screw to hold the end of the felt... Maybe someone knows how this was attached at Ford. Michael
  19. Thanks for the options list. Very interesting literature! I have inspected the dashboard harness. There is no socket for an indicator light on the harness at that place. There aren't either any other items of the convenience option group installed on the car (no trunk or engine compartment light). So there couldn't have been a "brake" light in the hole I found on the dashboard and the green cable pigtail is there on every car, like assumed earlier... Maybe, this ia a good idea for a refit. I think a parking brake light is useful on a car.
  20. Thank you for the pictures. Now I can put together some parts of the puzzle. My car had a hole in the lower driver dash, just where the "park" light sits. There were some fragments of a silver platic material in the hole. When takingthe car apart, I could not say what this hole was for. Now I know it. The switch was missing on my car. At least it was not on the brake pedal carrier. Only the cable was there. Tomorrow I will inspect the dashboard harness to see if there is a connector for the light. Unfortunately, I closed the hole before repaint of the dash, because I thought someone has bored it to mount an manual choke or so. When the car was equipped with a park brake light, I will install it again and rebore the light hole. Was the light a separate option or part of an option group of some kind? Thanks again. Michael
  21. Hi, can anyone provide a picture where the parking brake light switch is located on the pedal mount? I have found the light green wire for it. But the switch is missing and I do not see where I can install the new one. Thanks in advance and best wishes for 2013! Michael
  22. I also refurbished my seats during the ongoing restoration process of my 71 Mach 1. Other than machmeter's interior, my car is Acapulco Blue outside and Medium Blue inside. But it also has a deluxe interior. Replacement was necessary because of excessive rot and mildew in the seats due to water intrusion though the rusted cowl vent. These chairs started to become "alive"... I did the work myself, using pretty much the same techniques as machmeter. The new repro seat covers and foams were made by TMI, one of the two big makers of classic Mustang interiors in the U.S. I got them from Virginia Classic Mustang and the quality leaves nothing to be desired. They fit tightly and excellent when installed properly. Upholstery work is nothing for weaklings. It is hard work. Even with a rattlecan of silicone spray... It is best done on a sunny an hot day outside in the sun. The material becomes more "workable" in the heat. The most obvious difference from the originals is the missing two-tone design on the reproductions. The vertical stripes normally come in a lighter blue or green than the rest of the seat. On the repro covers the color of the stripes is the same than the main color. Did anyone buy a repro cover from Distinctive, the other maker of seat covers for the Mustang? Do they use correct two colors for Deluxe interiors? The old original seat cover The new TMI seat cover installed
  23. I can't say anything bad about the Dynacorn repro hood. It has an exact fit, good production quality and has ervery bore, hole and thread where it belongs - even the holes for mounting the washer hoses and nozzles. It goes for about 300 bucks in part shops. Happy Christmas, guys! Michael
  24. I have found the kick panel retainers. Still searching the roof side trim retainers...
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