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Everything posted by Spechti

  1. Hi, I need some small parts that are missing on my car, a 1971 Mustang Mach 1. First, the 6 little retainers that secure the kick panels to the door hinge pillar are completely gone, except for one, which I have taken a photo of. They are fitted in little rectangular holes in the pillar. It would be great if someone has a parts car and can save them from it. The other item I am desperately searching for is the roofside header trim moulding clip that secures the garnish moulding to the headliner tack strip on each side. Only one of them is left on my car. I do not know exactly how many there were, but I think there were 4 altogether, so I need three of them to complete it again. I also took a photo for easier identification. Offers from worldwide are welcome. Michael
  2. This is the one for A/C cars sold by NPD. Except for the cutout for the A/C piping, it looks the same. The main difference to the cheaper one is the molded form. It follows the highs and lows of the firewall better than a non-moulded mat. On my 71 Mach 1 it had a perfect fit. To help it fit even better, i used a heat gun to install and some 3M spray adhesive.
  3. Thanks for your answer. But sorry for my insufficient description of the topic. My question was about the outer felts, not the inner ones attached to the upper part of the door panel. The upper outside felt is visible when you look down the door glass from above. It is attached to the door with little spring clips like you said. The lower outside felt looks the same like the upper one, but unlike that they have no clips and they are not visible (except with windows rolled down all the way and looking into the slot). I can only see two holes in the door sheetmetal for attaching it with screws. But the two mounting points are not sufficient to hold it tightly in place. It is still sloppy. My question was about the correct and safe attachment of this lower, outer felt. The repop felt sets include all visible felts for one car in their kit. The lower felt kit is not included. It is also made by repops, but is a separate kit. As far as I know, only NPD supplies it. Michael
  4. Have mine from NPD. It was the better, molded one running at $149.00 including rubber pins. It is heavy and the quality is very good. It has an absolute exact fit with alignment on all holes. Michael
  5. Panel alignment on the 71-73 Mustang is a PITA and also a time consuming job if done properly. First, the cars were not built perfectly like a Rolls-Royce. The gaps were made with a good measure of tolerance. To make it worse, same type parts were not always exchangable without problems. Which means a door from one Mustang not necessarily fits the same nice way on another car. But at all, no cars came form the factory like yours. If that occurred, quality inspection refused it or at least, obvious misaligments were corrected by the dealer selling the car. This offers us some variation in guessing what might have happened to your car: 1. The car was rebuilt at the rear using incompatible parts from different cars/years or reproduction parts of inferior quality. 2. Car was bent in an accident (not necessarily a traffic accident) and shoddily repaired 3. Parts were incorrectly installed or were installed using wrong fasteners and attachment material. Example: the bad fit of the left side of the trunk lid may be the result of a bent or loose hinge, wrong installation of shims or similar. A very close inspection of the rear might reveal what happened. Compare the mounting points to images of other cars of the same type. Control the part numbers for being maybe of another year or revision type. Michael
  6. I had the same problem on several transmissions of different cars with cork gaskets. I changed to ATP fiber gaskets, attached them with a very thin film of a non-hardening sealer like Curil K2, bolted the pan to the trans and torqued the bolts. Never had a problem again.
  7. Hi guys, today I installed the upper and lower door glass beltline felts on my driver's door. The Mustang funnily has a pair of them on each door. Maybe this was done to bring more guidance to the door glass and reduce water intrusion to the door. The upper felt is attached with spring metal clips molded into the metal core of it and a little screw at the end. The previous owner of my car attached the lower one with silicone which did not last long and the lower felt fell into the door... The new repop has no holes or clip on it. But there are two screw holes in the door sheetmetal in places where the felt attaches to and there are access holes for the screwdriver in the door shell for access. Was that all? Did anyone remove or install the lower felts on his car and can tell how it was attached? Thanks. Michael
  8. Sorry for the delay, folks. I have downloaded some cutting templates from a speaker manufacturer (in this case Rockford Fosgate) and found that the bolt holes of a standard 6x9" speaker match the holes in the package tray sheetmetal. Now for the downside. the hole for the speaker itself is too small for a 6x9" speaker. The holes in my tray have already been widened up, as mentioned, but still are too small for a speaker to mount flush. I guess, it is necessary to use an adapter ring to move the position of the speaker higher, so that only the conical magnet basket goes through the hole. Michael
  9. I had the same problem. The urethane coating on the steel core was separating from it because rust crawled between them. There were visible bubbles and waves visible on the urethane surface. Since the mach 1 bumpers get scarce to find and in my opinion it was not rusted beyond repair, I decided to fix it. The rust was mostly in the corners, at the underside (where the bolt holes are) and heavily on the inside. First I took a grindstone in a drill and cleaned the inside of the bumper. Then I cut away every urethane material to about 1 cm from the edge and also every loose part of it. I cut it generously. The underside also had serious damage. I cut away three sections of rubber, the biggest in the center recess. The rust was ground off and also media blasted with a hand gun. Clean metal was treated with rust converter (fertan) and painted with rust preventive coating (like por15) I have found, it really takes strong nerves and a tiger's heart to slice a classic mustang's bumper.;) After the procedure and thorough drying of the paint, the cut out portions are bonded in again using a strong polyurethane adhesive. I used a black urethane that is used for bodywork, e.g. glass adhesive. Do not use a silicone mastic! Sorry guys, no pics of this mess... The refurbished bumper was sanded and coated with a slightly flexible filler, also on urethane basis. Anyway, this stuff is harder than the rubber beneath it and cracks if bent heavily. But adhesion is quite good when treated normally. Then the bumper is painted again in Acapulco Blue. The inside is painted satin black. Enjoy!
  10. Hi everyone, today I closely inspected my Mach 1 pop-open fuel cap and found the rubber gasket on the lid in a state of beginning deterioration. I thought this was no biggie to change, but it seems that no Mustang parts supplier has this simple replacement part. Has anyone a source for it? Or is there a substitute? Thanks Michael
  11. in the trunk it is not that important, but there is a reason the factory used glueless tape. When you are using simple glued electical tape in very hot areas, like close to the engine, the glue gets soft and nearly liquid every time temperature goes up. Two things can happen. First, the tape glue smears away and the whole tape loosens and peels off, leaving a dirt attracting layer of glue. The dirt acts like a grinder and abrases the cables in the harness. Second, the glue dries out and the tape peels away. Some cheap China tapes, to be exactly their glue, have chemicals in them that soften the cable insulation and get aggressive when exposed repeatedly to heat. Because of this, I would only use the best quality glueless tape in critica areas. I know there is some from 3M, but I do not know the number at the moment. Michael
  12. I have always owned american cars since I was 18. My father drove Buicks and Cadillacs when I was a child and had them till he passed. He had a lot of negative experiences with german cars and did not like them any more after he had a Mercedes that you could watch rusting apart and that guzzled gas like there would be no tomorrow. He got rid of it and was happy with his 76 Buick Century he bought used two days later from a GM dealer. A sturdy reliable car which served without problems for 21 years and then was sold for about the same price he paid for it. I am more fond of Fords. Always liked them. I bought my first blue oval product (after owning GM cars like 2 Corvettes, 1 Camaro, 1 Firebird and a Cadillac) in 2005 in form of a Lincoln Mark IV, which I still own. I use it here on German roads as my summer car. When I was a boy of 12 years, I saw a 72 Mustang convertible with engine damage standing for several weeks at the local gas station. I liked the red car so much thad I rode to the station on my bike every day after school to watch it. Some day it was repaired or sold and was gone. Later I found out that there is a fastback version of the car that is called "Mach 1" that looked even more sharp. The car impressed me for my life. In later years I saw one or another on a car meet, but mostly in tasteless custom trim. Good cars for sale were seldom and expensive and scrap cars were not easy to fix. Besides they also were expensive. In fall 2009 i browsed german ebay, because I looked for a Mustang model as a gift. In the list of finds was a yellow 1971 Mach 1. I called the owner and asked some questions about the car. He said that it was imported to Germany in 1998 and was a Texas car from the Houston area. The car had a lot of issues, including a defect FMX trans, some accident damage, totally dark electrics and he said it "has a strange way of driving". Because of all of that he was not able to bring it on the street and he did not have the experience to fix it. But the engine is running fine. I made some calculations a made a bid on the last day of the auction. I never expected to win the car for 6,500 Euros (at that time about 7,500 Dollars) because Mach 1s usually run at twice that here in mediocre condition. The car was in Cologne and was transported for another 200 Euros to my place near Hamburg. The car was very impressive with its racecar look when it rolled into my garage. It was almost complete and did not have much rust for its age, although a lot of bodywork had to be done due to the bent metal. The very next day I started to take it apart. The engine was the only working part on the car. It "was running strange" because ist had a not very streetable 4.11 rear and a Detroit Locker which goes "dang, dang, dang" in curves. Since very good Mach 1s are rare to find in Germany, I decided to go for a complete restoration. This has been running now for almost three years. Interior ist completely redone and stands here ready to go in again, electrics are like new, body sheetmetal work was completed last month. Car is booked for the paint booth next week. Reassembly will begin after painting. Car will be like new when finished. It will be a bright blue, argent accent, deluxe interior blue, 1971 Mach 1 with Magnum 500s, argent stripes and a 351C 2V. As you see, some miles to go... Michael
  13. Thanks Ray! The pic with the Boss is the one I saw some time ago and my remembering was a little faulty. I find it funny that Boss 351 and Cougars were built on the same line. The pics showing up on the web from time to time all seem to be the same 5 or 6. It is hard to believe that in three years of Mustang making not every month or so a photographer was on the site to shoot milestones or production documentation or press stuff or whatever... Michael
  14. Hi guys, some time ago, I saw an assembly line picture on the "429 Mustang and Cougar Megasite". the most interesting fact on this image was Cougars and Mustangs running on the same assembly line. I guess this was because of the special engine treatment for the bigblock cars. Somewhere I have seen another one where Coupes and Fastbacks were on the line. Does anyone have other interesting historic pictures of 71-73 Mustangs being assembled? Michael
  15. On most other cars the buck tag is riveted or bolted cleanly to its place with two or four fasteners. Normally it is mounted to a flat, solid surface at a visible place. On our cars it can be seen hastily pinned to the radiator support with only one sheetmetal screw to the right or left side of the radiator support. I guess many of them were lost due to this flimsy attachment. Does anyone have a buck tag that was mounted solidly by the factory? Michael
  16. I have tried some of the "trunk spatter paints" of two suppliers. One german manufacturer that sells the gray spatter as "granite paint" and the spray bombs from Eastwood. I tried tem on a test piece. Both are not very chip and scratch resistant, even with a clear coat on them. In my eyes, this makes them not very ideal as a trunk paint. Although the Eastwood paint has a more "Spatter" look than the liquid rock stuff. There is another product on the market which is named "Zolatone". I have not tried it yet. Maybe someone in the US can test it, because shipping paints to Europe is a bit of an adventure... Anyway, there is one thing I noticed in the trunk of my Mach 1. The car had its original (but very worn and dirty) paint in the trunk when I got it. But the paint has no visible spatter. It seems more like a very hard, low gloss medium gray. It almost looks like the bedliner paint used on trucks. So it seems the real "spatter" type paint was not used on all Mustangs. Unfortunately I do not have a pic of this. Michael
  17. My buck tag is also missing. Car is an early Mach 1 from mid September 1970. It would be great if someone with an early 71 could post a pic of his buck tag with some surrounding. Thanks. Michael
  18. Greets to Scotland! It IS a nightmare job and it is best done by experienced tinbenders and guys who know ro handle a weld gun. A lot of us had this problem and is is the major weak spot on the 71-73 Mustangs. Fortunately some other topics on the list of corrosion-prone parts were improved compared to the previous models. At least you can expect THIS. But I have seen some others here in Germany that were even worse. Only cars with a lifespan in desert regions or extremely well pampered ones usually look better there. There is no one-afternoon fix for this. Qualified repair means serious work. On my car, the cowl was only partially opened because the rest of the metal was okay. The whole cowl was sandblasted from inside an below, then painted with POR15. Then the upper part was welded in again and for further rustproof the whole cavity was spraed with a wax. Michael
  19. Panel alignment on the 71-73 Mustang is not an easy job. One can spend hours over hours on that. Usually the problem you describe is a matter of alignment of the fenders and the hood hinges. This is quite difficult. The Mustang has fenders that are so flexible that you can twist an bend them in almost 1000 ways with the factory fasteners. Most funny is the fact that when you fasten a bolt on the rocker area attachment of the fender, there will also be a certain portion of movement in the upper part. And the front top bolts and the bolts behind the headlights will affect some longitudinal effects - not necessarily expected effects. The easiest way to align the big panels is to loosen the fender bolts and then the hood hinge bolts. Move fenders to outward position. First adjust the the rear height of the hood. When this is to your satisfaction, adjust the horizontal position coarsely. To compensate height along the fenderline, shims under the upper fender bolts are used. Carefully lower the hood and keep an eye on the gap to the fenders. There are four rubber wedges that keep the hood in place. When the hood/fender gap is too big, the hood has no guidance and wobbles horizontally. Precisely adjust the distance of the fender to the hood. Normally the gap is small and equal along the whole length of the hood. The fenders can be tuned in mor finely when you just use three upper bolts for raw adjustment and add the rest back in place later. Some crucial adjustment to the fenders can also be made with the small fastener close to the upper door hinge. Have an eye on this bolt! Good luck with your adjustments! Michael
  20. I heard of them before and had contact some time ago. Thanks for the link. But I like the idea with the tachometer conversion much more and will go that way. Michael
  21. Wow! I am speechless! This is the coolest one ever. I guess this is the way to go. In any case the tach is more useful than a clock. Thanks for the nice and helpful link. I have an idiot light gauge from a spare cluster on the shelf that I can use as a core. The good thing is, nothing on the existig system or harness has to be modified. Only three additional cables for the tach have to be routed (ign, coil an gnd). Michael
  22. Thanks for the answers. I have thoroughly inspected the guts of the clock. The coils indeed would be reconditionable by rewinding them, but the other internals close to them are completely fried. Most fatal was the total melting of every plastic part or gear. The parts that glowed in heat, such as the contact spring, became brittle from the heat and does not spring anymore. I think that one is killed forever. Now there are 3 options: 1. Convert to a tach cluster (which is surely more useful in a car than the clock). Unfortuunately I need the expensive tach cluster and a new harness. 2. Have the clock professionally rebuilt with a customized quartz movement 3. Trying to find a NOS movement
  23. I have restored and cleaned my 71 Mustang's clock, bench-tested it successfully for three days and after returning the precious into the cluster, it went up in smoke when connected to 12V again. It was a complete meltdown! Internals of the clock were fried. After disassembly I found the cause were sticking points. The lucky part was, it was not yet installed in the freshly restored Mach 1. I stood next to it, saw the smoke and pulled the plug. Could have been desastrous and barbecue the whole car if it were already in! Now I plan to remove the burned parts and install a quartz conversion kit. I have seen them for the Borg-made clocks in the 1970 Mustangs and other cars, but none for the 71-73. I guess the clock is made by another supplier, Westclox or General Time. Did anyone of you convert his clock to qartz? Can the kits for the Borg clocks be customized to run in our cars? Michael
  24. Hi guys, I took my 71 Mach 1 instrument cluster apart to clean and overhaul it. Next on schedule is the clock. It is a non-tach car, so the clock is in the cluster, located left of the tank gauge. The clock is not running and it will be repaired. Now the question for my test configuration: does the clock run on voltage-regulated 5 volts from the regulator in the cluster or on full 12 volts battery power? Michael
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