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Everything posted by Spechti

  1. I think I like the cute girl, too...:heart:
  2. You can actually paint a lot of things with spray bombs in better-than-factory quality. Although, the whole thing's success depends on several crucial points: 1. Paint quality 2. Spray can quality (sprayhead) 3. Painting skills 4. Ambient temperature and humidity 5. Abscence of dust 6. Material and surface preparation 7. Size of workpiece I spray a lot of things with spray cans, because I do not want to make the whole buildup with compressor, spraygun, 2K-paint mixture and so on every time I have to paint a battery tray or a valve cover. I usually blast the parts in my blasting cabinet. The surfaces are clean and rust-free afterwards and paint adheres perfectly. To get best paint adhesion to the surface, I degrease before painting with brake cleaner pr paint prep. Depending on the part and its later usage, a layer of primer is applied. Then three thin layers of spray paint with short drying periods of 10 minutes are applied. The number of layers is directly related to the quality and mixture of the paint. For engine parts, i like the VHT paint bombs, because they are of high quality, have a nice spray head, dry not too fast and not too slow, last long and have good coverage and final shine. I also use 2K-Paints in spray cans for painting parts that need special durability and resistance, e.g. chassis parts. Here you can see an ai cleaner housing that was painted in VHT's Ford Corporate Blue. You can also see the blasted surface befor paint. Michael
  3. Another benefit besides the much better readability of the instruments is the lower heat emission of LEDs compared to bulbs. A lot of plastic cluster housings were barbecued over the decades. This phenomenon ocurred even worse when bulbs with higher wattage were used to enhance luminosity in the past.
  4. Yes, it seems these boosters were only used on the 1971-73 Mustangs and the Cougars of the same years. No other car uses that part. Some years ago, the 71-73 cars were the "unloved ponies", no one cared about the parts and cores were plentiful. Now also these models have attracted desire of collectors and a lot of people restore one. Demand for parts goes up and the market is swept empty...
  5. Hi, I just had my brake booster (front discs) rebuilt via the Cardone "rebuild+return" service since regular exchange or outright parts of this type are not available any more. The rebuild was done nicely and to my satisfaction, but in the box it was shipped in was a note that the white nylon plate which serves as a shim between body sheetmetal and booster and holds the rod boot was not in stock and thus could not be replaced. The old part was re-installed. The condition is not the best. Can anybody give me a source where I can get a used one in nice shape? I guess most look like mine (photo) or worse...
  6. Hi guys, unfortunately I did not note the location of the different sized water pump bolts when I removed them from the 1971 351C and stored them in a bag. Does anyone have a scheme or drawing with the bolt sizes and which bolt goes where? Thanks. Michael
  7. Related question: are the repro door glass replacements (tinted) of the same quality, fit, thickness and hue as the OEM parts? Thanks and regards. Michael
  8. This is the Edelbrock kickdown rod device bolted to a Performer 600 cfm carb (arrow) I have experienced that once it is mounted to the linkage, the throttle cable bracket is out of line, because the assembly moves the throttle lever on the carb more outboard. So I had to relocate the bracket. Michael
  9. The question is not dumb at all. I am also interested in the answer. My heater and A/C hoses were gone when I bought the car and I have no clue which hose goes to which heater core tube. Engine is a 351C, car has A/C.
  10. Once my 71 Mach 1 is finished, it will be painted in Bright Blue/Acapulco Blue, but I will tweak the hue a little to make the color a little more harmonic with the Medium Blue interior. I like the color very much, because it looks very "seventies". Of course most other factory colors also looked very "seventies", too... The paint guys and I have tried a lot, but finally painted a sample piece of sheetmetal to test the shade in combination with the argent decals and the brightwork. This is the result and it looks great as you can see. My other favorite factory colors for the car is Dark Green Metallic, especially when it has a matching interior. I also like Dark Medium Gold with a black interior.
  11. It seems to be a weak point on the 351C oil pans that the drain plug threads strip easily. A lot of pans obviously have this issue, including mine. My first thought was to repair the thread and make the plug oversize, but at least I think it's best to follow you guys and repalce the pan. But are the repro pans of good quality and fit? I plan to use a plain steel or an already painted one. What are your experiences on that? Thanks. Michael
  12. It's about time a manufacturer takes a heart and makes a reproduction. This is one of the most critical parts of a 71-73!
  13. OK. I think I got it right now. The only other tube bent in that way is the fluid supply to the rear support which feeds the governor. It is marked on the pic. Hope this helps.
  14. The line you are wondering about is located in the upper right quarter of the picture. It runs from the pressure regulator to the valve body. The Filter holding clip is hooked to it. This is a pic of my FMX after rebuild.
  15. I also have purchased a comparable one (90 liters space) 2 years ago on ebay for about 90 Euros incl. blast gun. The box was worth every penny, as about 70 perent of blastable parts on a 71-73 fit into it. The largest parts I have blasted was an intake manifold and the air cleaner housing. Over the past years I have made hundredas of parts, screws and small stuff included. The injector-type gun is prone to clogging. This seems to be a weak point in all of these cabinets. You need absolutely dry air and you need lots of it. My compressor is not capable of this, so after a minute of blasting I have to wait for the air tank on the compressor to refill. The dust filter of the box also used to clog, so i modified it. If I didn't, there would be an overpressure buildup inside as the filter gets dirty over time. I have also added two cheap 12V neon lamps to enhance the installed lighting which was a bit insufficient for comfortable work. As blast media I use granulated copper slag, garnet, or korund in various grains. Not tried glass yet. Here is a picture of the air cleaner snorkel in the box during blasting. Michael
  16. Does anybody know what kind of gloss the argent accented cars had? Was the argent hood section also semigloss or was it glossy? Michael
  17. There is no message or any other hint on that on their homepage... Michael
  18. I only use the factory manuals, no matter which car. And the Ford manuals from the early 70s are good. No other manual is that detailed and specific. Most Haynes and Chilton manuals are much too diffuse on information, because usually a wide range of cars is covered for economic reasons of the issuer. Also I prefer the printed versions over the PDF laptop version.
  19. Hi, my 71 Mach 1 is missing the right rear quarter panel ash tray assy. Searchng for quite a time. From time to time one comes up on ebay, but they are rare. Particularly in acceptable condition Was the 71-73 ash tray unique to the Mustang/Mach 1 or was there an identical item used on other Fords/Mercs and/or other years? Michael
  20. Ford used a smaller upper seal on the outside of the door glass to wipe the water off and to keep dirt out of the window slot. To stabilize the door glass from the outside, the second, lower felt strip was used. Guide load was applied by the inner door glass guides. It was the outer guide for the glass and took the load away from the upper seal strip. If it wasn't there, the load would go directly on the upper strip, pressing the glass against it and reducing its life. I haven't yet seen a seal set that included the lower seal strip. The only dealer listing them in the catalog is NPD. Michael
  21. The wax is a rust prevention. It has almost no sound deadening effect. In Europe there are two accepted ways of chemical aftermarket corrosion protection methods: - waxes. They are the most common because they are used by the major car manufaturers at the factory - fats and oils. The fats have the advantage over the waxes that they never harden or shrink. They crawl when they get warm and close in any beginning rust process, preventing further contact of oxygen and moisture to the metal. In Germany, Austria and Switzerland mostly fats are used in classic car restorations or conservations. The most famous is the "Mike Sander's Corrosion Prevention Fat". It has won several long-term tests under scientific conditions. Advantage of the fat is the reliable protection over a long time, a major disadvantage is the "sweating-out" on hot days. The car begins to drop stains of molten fat. Another con is the complex processing with hot, sticky fat in big heated pots and the use of heated spray guns. This is the reason why a lot of restorers use waxes in their home environment. Michael
  22. @qcode351mach You are right. The seam is not butt welded, but there is an overlap. This was done to give the sheetmetal more structure and stabilty and also to minimize the danger of warping during welding. When looked closely from inside the trunk you can see the crimped corrugation along the seam. Prior to welding, the surfaces in the overlapping section were treated with a special, very heat-resistant primer named Inox. After the welding was finished and the metal had cooled down, some of this primer was thinned and thoroughly massaged into the small gap of the joined secctions with a brush. This was done to replace the primer that burned away during the welding process and seals the seam. You are again right regarding the nature of bondo being more resistant when painted. But bondo has another enemy: vibration. Especially on large sheetmetal areas bondo tends to crack and loosen by vibration when layered thick. Prior to final smoothing with fine putty - like you said -the car will be coated again with epoxy primer inside and outside to prevent direct contcat of smoothing compounds to bare metal. Michael
  23. If I may, I will take a short opportunity to contribute some pics of the tin/lead solder work on a Mach 1. This technique is not only used by european body craftsmen or restorers, it was also used by Ford on the assembly line, namely where the seams of the roof sheetmetal meet the pillars and the quarter panel. In this case the right quarter panel on the Mach 1 was changed because there were several deformations, kinks and rust-troughs beyond economical repair. Also the inner wheelhousing was deformed. To get better access to it, the old quarter panel was removed and a Scott Drake quarter sheetmetal was welded in. The fit was quite poor and a lot of modifications and custom work had to be done. Right. No coarse putty work is needed. The solder is sanded and painted with body filler. In some cases some fine putty is used to cover fine irregularities. The metal does not warp because the temperatures working with tin/lead are not high enough to deform steel. The melting point of the solder is around 190 degrees Celsius (374°F). The freshly welded seam of the new quarter panel. The primer is generously removed and sanded to the bare metal. Some roughness benefits adhedsion of the solder. A flux is applied to the metal (a whitish paste). Then the flux is heated with a torch and the melting tin components in the flux adhere to the steel, making a perfect contact face. Then the flux is heated with a torch and the melting tin components in the flux adhere to the steel, making a perfect contact face. The solder is applied. The tin/lead mixture is heated with a torch until it gets creamy soft, not liquid. In this condition and with the heat of the torch, it is spreaded to the surface. The tool for this is a metal spoon. Some older craftsmen use tools an blocks made from hardwood. The seam is totally covered. After cooling down the excess of solder is removed wit a cheese grater body file. This also shapes the new surface. Then it is sanded on block. The panel is ready for primer and filler. Why all this? Why not take a pot of bondo? Simple answer. Bondo does not make a permanent and safe connection to metal surfaces. Especially not when you have serious environment temperature changes. Sooner or later a thicker layer of bondo cracks, chips or separates from the sheetmetal because of its different tmperature expansion and contraction behavior. Another point is vibration. Tin/lead mixture makes a permanent metal-to-metal adhesion that lasts a hundred years if properly made. Also rust protection is better than with bondo. I hope this will answer some questions. Sorry, Abudi, for "hijacking" your thread with this, but I thought it might be of interest here... Michael
  24. Congratulations, Abudi! As I see, your Boss is some steps ahead of my Mach 1. On my car, panel alignment is almost done and at the moment we are trying to give more strength to the roof sheet metal by attaching 3 additional stiffeners. A thing Ford forgot... My car also has taken almost one year of work in the body shop. Like on yours, the major body work was made old school style. Also tin/lead was used instead of bondo. Seams (where reachable) were welded with the factory-like resistance spot welding to reproduce identical weld spots. Also torch welding, hard soldering, and MIG welding were used. My respect and compliment for you and the guys working with you on the car. Michael
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