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Everything posted by BrewSTL

  1. Wow that’s a whole lot of great advice from everyone. I’m going to go the route of por15. And that’s only on the basis of having previous success and the fact I plan on doing the same in the trunk area and top coating with the aerosol raptor 2k bed liner. I pulled the other fender today and was taken aback at just how good of shape it is in. Funny someone mentioned acorns and nests. I pulled this car out of a barn going on 7 years ago and it was absolutely loaded with all the typical nut storage spots. Here is a picture of the driver side I pulled today.
  2. thanks for the input! I should have mentioned that I have actually worked with por15 previously on the floor boards or my car. I actually loved the result. When I did that I used an entire kit with the metal prep, degreaser, etc. are you saying that you just knock off the surface rust and go straight away with the por15? I was under the impression you are supposed to neutralize the rust before applying the black por15 paint. But if I can get away with it being that simple it would be my go to solution for sure.
  3. Decided while stripping the paint off of my car that my easiest approach for some spots, and to do some things right, that id pull my fenders. To me they still seem salvageable. There is surface rust on the back side of the fender, which seems more than fair. But my question is for anyone who has pulled and restored their fenders and was in my same situation. What did you do to surface prep the back side of the fender? I have ospho, and felt that might be a good solution to neutralize the surface rust. But I’m under the impression it would still be a good idea to spray something over that as well. I saw that upol now makes a Raptor brand 2k aerosol Berliner. Looks like some tough $hit. Pricey to say the least. I thought it might be possible to spray the ospho, let it do it’s magic. And then neutralize is after and hit it with the raptor stuff. But then again, I could just as easily spray the ospho, then hit it with rubberized undercoating throughout and call it a day. Long post, but this is just some of the million places a mind wanders when going over options. Here is what I am looking at.
  4. Just saw your post about the balance shipping issue so I won’t bother asking. If you still have a fan shroud I’d like to take one off your hands. if you still do, please pm me PayPal info and the cost.
  5. If you get your hands on the good stuff, be careful with it. It is nasty to say the least. If you are doing small stuff and it has a decent amount of detail I might actually suggest just an angle grinder with a cheap wire cup brush from a harbor freight or something. You can scuff the bare metal after the fact for paint adhesion but those wire cups don’t put a lot of heat into metal and they knock old paint down fast.
  6. sorry, I brought up and old thread for the sake of asking Don if he still had any of those brackets available. Couldn’t help myself!
  7. Mocking up my new trunk corners (thanks OMS!) and tail light panel. Looking at the old holes in the quarters that fit the through bolts for the rear valance, I notice that the tail light panel is blocking them. So my question is, is my mock up way off? Or is it intended that we drill through the tail light panel after welding into place?
  8. That car is your's and you build it like it is. If that means you go crazy and resto mod then that's up to you. If you are trying to make the car as bone stock as possible, good on ya. It is your investment. And like someone else said, you won't be getting the time and money invested paid back in full almost ever.
  9. Hey gotta keep the firewood dry where ever I can and garage space is at a premium You know how much wood a mustang with no interior will hold LOL I'd say you are doing pretty good in life if you have a 71 fastback used exclusively for firewood storage. I'm most certainly interested in that pair. Anything that isn't completely pitted through is going in the right direction for me. I sent a PM a little earlier.
  10. I know it is a longshot. They don't make repops of the fastback lower trunk corners and as many times as I have tried to beat and distort metal into shape, I am learning that I'm just not that great at it. If anyone has a donor car and wants to make a few bucks back on their investment, I would certainly love to work something out. If anyone can help out please reply here first so I will be notified. Thanks!
  11. I wanna go just so I can tell Foose he took it too far. As a restomod guy I can still draw the line at too much of a good thing. Unfortunately I'm just going to have to hope someone else there says it. Have a good time!
  12. Edelbrock has one that is right at the same price point as well. A lot of purists are going to turn their heads on this one but I'm personally all for it. That is what hot rodding is about.
  13. scared to even ask... shipping and price of the door panels to 55126? $30 SHIPPED FedEx to 55126 i doubt that the other person who asked is going to turn that deal down. But in the off chance they decide not to pick them up I would certainly like to buy them. I'm in the 63123 zip.
  14. I am smart enough to know when to admit I lack any knowledge of something. Lol. That being said, what is the reason behind these not working for a sportsroof? Is it an angle issue? I have been almost dreading getting to the tail panel section of my car for the lack of these corners being available for a fastback. Mostly dreading because I'd be comfortable doing the repop welding myself. It's the art of making sheet metal into shape that gets a little beyond my skill set.
  15. Oh yeah! I'm liking all of that! That di-noc puts out some fantastic results!
  16. If I had a dollar for everytime I screamed at my shock tower braces for being in the way of my fat hands... The word jealous is an understatement...
  17. Sounds good to me! Welcome from St. Louis. Good luck with your purchase and a bit of advice from a fellow newer member is prepare pictures and info. You have to be ready to feed the masses of their addiction.
  18. I have seen someone mention it before and you sound like original is not your concern. That said, anything can be done within reason, and the idea of a seat that has an adjustable recline sounds oh so nice. Tmi makes nice restomod style seat covers and foam for more support, but at the price you would pay, you could most likely have a good seat with a frame that reclines. If you have seats, and they are in decent shape, but want something different then get em, make the new frame work with your seat risers, and hold onto the other seats for the sake of just in case.
  19. I just went through this with floor pans. If you go through forums, and various opinions are out there I came to one that finally made sense. It's all going to be different. Different steel is different steel combined with the tooling over time. Now there are theories that all these panels are made in the same place, then shipped off to have their company slap their name on it and call it theirs. Very sad, but very possible in this day and age. In the case of my floor pan I ended up driving myself nearly nuts and went with goodmark for the simple fact that it was affordable and if it were junk I could say lesson learned, get a more expensive product, and hope for the best while I move on. But in all reality it was a fine stamp, a little thinner than I hoped, but did the job just fine. Don's explanation is a perfectly good one. Because one trend you will notice in your research is one guy will have a great experience with a company, while another will have a horrible time with the same product. Another thing that comes with this territory is that the cars we are restoring are nowhere near where they started, and the combination of torque and horsepower does funny things. Massaging is normal, and may not be at the fault of the new part. Just something to keep in mind.
  20. +1 for the indy mags! Great bang for your buck with those guys!
  21. That bar... I don't mind the idea, but this example of execution is just missing the mark for me. For one, it looks too beefy, which comes from it being off of a later model mustang. A simple tubular design, or even better is fabbed with the more late model design but perhaps the thickness of the rear spoiler might feel more warranted. This just looks more like a random handle off of a bucket or something. And the other thing that irks me is the fact the lines in the 71-73 mustangs build off of one another so beautifully and this just suddenly pokes straight up screaming here I am. Thin it out, shorten it even an inch, and make it sit at a vertical angle somewhere in between the windshield and top front of the quarter panel and you might really have something that both catches the eye but could make a few people, (no one on this site, obviously) question if it was a rare option. If it's cosmetic, make it pretty at least. My .02 cents and I'm sure someone out there loves it. But as it sits I'm not the one.
  22. I did the same with Masonite, and used a headliner glue to attach 1/2 inch foam with the carbon fiber vinyl. The thicker foam gives a nice rounded dip around the 6x9 speakers that makes them appear to be somewhat seated in a molded deck. I really gotta get some pictures taken, lol.
  23. Yeah, for me I see the wood and always ask myself where it fits in with the design? For a purist I understand going back to what was there. I'm more of the make it my own mindset, though. I just recently took my gauge bezel apart and rattle canned it for more of a polished stainless look. The carbon fiber look just goes with these cars beautifully in my opinion. I upholstered my rear deck in a carbon fiber vinyl and love the results. I will take a few snapshots whenever I'm back in the garage. Oh and as an update I picked up a set of the "ultimat" lloyd mats with the silver mustang script and silver edging. Excited for that arrival.
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