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boilermaster last won the day on May 12 2020

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  1. 73SGM Mach, Sounds like you are in need of some accelerator pump tuning. Would you please post your Holley carbs list number so we can see what pump nozzle your carb came with ? You might end up having to buy a new larger nozzle, there is more to tuning a Holley pump but it is pretty common to need a larger nozzle on a Cleveland 4 V.
  2. fordismyboss, Hey jerry makes a good point about the tc nuts, defenitely go there first. I can only add that the oil pump pickup is threaded to the oil pump, it is remotely possible that it is not level with the bottom of the oil pan or worse yet loose by one complete thread. When I have a pan off, I always check the bottom of the pickup with a level. The only way that I can think of to check this would be to take like a hammer handle and press against the bottom of the pan (as it will give a little bit) and see if the noise changes when pressure is applied or released. You might be able to get a visual with the oil drained and a very good light or borescope. lastly, if the oil dipstick tube is not seized you could see if removing or rotating it has any bearing on your noise. Hope this does not seem too far fetched, but when the obvious wont work, try something else. Boilermaster
  3. Quality brake rotors (coated) for Fords seem to take 3 or 4 days here in upper Michigan. Other items that my local NAPA store always had in stock are not there, they can be had from another store the same day, but my store had to employ another full time driver, that's gotta be driving prices up. I always call now before driving 15 minutes to town, less disapointments that way.
  4. I put the console where it fit the shifter well , with painters tape under the screw holes in the console and marked each one with a sharpie. from there I removed the console and heated a piece of 3/16'' brake tubing with no flare red hot and simply melted thru the carpet. Stinky and hard on the eyes, but very effective, just drilled my holes from there, I could actually see where the screws needed to go. That's all I am willing to confess to today.
  5. Ok, After some unavoidable delays the TKX is in (well partially ) re -dialed the bellhousing and only had to make a small adjustment to the parallelism of the engine block to the face of the bell opening, I did this by adding two pieces of .016'' shim stock between the separator plate and bell at the top 2 bellhousing bolts. When I then measured the concentricity it was only .002'' , I bet I made 3 or 4 complete 360's to verify. I was able to remove the toploader without removing the exhaust but knew that was not going to be the case when installing the TKX , boy was I right. That darn TKX shifter and the shifter opening, very tight to the right side and the Kwik stik shifter, finally she went in, all in one instant and I was in. Installed the transmission bolts, then pumped the transmission jack and there is my problem, the side tower of the shifter is really tight to the totally virgin OEM shifter opening, I cannot get the TKX high enough in the rear to install the crossmember and rear mount, l now have the crossmember installed with no mount, just to let it rest in place. It appears as I will need to trim about 3/4 to1'' from the right side of my shifter opening or cut out the opening as a whole and move it over just enough to clear and still fit my full length console. Will be calling Paul at MDL tomorrow, just to verify I have the correct shifter, although they only list one for our cars. On the other hand it looks good so far for not having to buy a new driveshaft by using the super short (3.5'' Daytona) pinion yoke. That yoke is on a newly rebuilt 3.70 center section that is ready to install, just wanted to have the trans in place first. Sorry I have been away for a while as of late but my computer keypad has issues and I am using an alternative on screen keypad that I just learned to use, being a one finger typist is really slow.
  6. Kcmash, You probably wont have to worry, because if Brent Lykins is going to spec. and build a cam for you, he will probably NOT let you use the (spider & dogbones) there are 2 threaded holes that need to be added to the valley in the block and some Clevelands also need machining around the lifter bores for the dogbones to sit level when both lifters are at the bottom of their bores. As I recall, max. lift with the spider and dogbones is just a little over .500'' valve lift. Plan on going link bars and measuring for custom length pushrods.
  7. OK, Pulled the trigger on the TKX today. I will have a 1350 type slip joint, pretty sure I will just have to make a u joint change in the front and should wind up having the front and rear u joints being the same. Not 100% on the driveshaft length, MDL offers a 50'' driveshaft for our cars and my current is 50- 21/32'' and have 1-1/4'' clearence with the suspension fully loaded. the bellhousing spacer is 11/16'' thick, my secret weapon is a super short Yukon gear rear yoke that measures .730'' shorter than the standard 4'' Daytona yoke, gonna be a wait and see situation. Paul says I should start seeing packages in about a week, Paul IS a super dude and we talked quite a bit, come to find out he has a brother about 2 hrs. from me with a 7173 as well. small world.
  8. 73'mach1, 10 years ago, I would have called Don's statement rubbish, but the fact is it's very true (at least where our iron heads are concerned. Pretty sure this all came about when the MoCo started dropping compression ratios and then everyone thought compression ratio was the ONLY way to build power, blame it all on the Boss and its (advertised compression ratio and horsepower).
  9. Kcmash. Looks like you got some homework to do before you start doing your homework. 1 figure out what octane fuel you intend to use. 2 how are the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and cylinder block. if too much material has to be removed to make surfaces true, that MAY influence your piston choice. 3 piston selection. you need to choose carefully, with closed chamber heads and the wrong compression height, or amount of dish will influence your static compression ratio. 4 dynamic compression ratio , after amount of machine work figured and a piston choice is made then you can make a camshaft choice based on the type of fuel you want to choose, there are calculators out there, once your static compression ratio is determined that you can input your desired camshaft specifications into and come up with with with a dynamic compression ratio that will make your engine detonation free and long lasting. Get it wrong and your engine could be a real slug or worse yet a detonation prone failure. To my experience 8.0 to about 8.2 dynamic compression ratio is about maximum for 91 octane zero ethanol fuel. Boilermaster
  10. .576/.588 @.006 284/290 @.050 224/230 110 lsa @.050 int. open 6 BTDC close 38 ABDC @.050 exh. open 49 BBDC close 1 ATDC I am also running 10.4 CR, no time slips or dyno runs,
  11. Tony-Muscle, If you are going to pull rocker covers, I would suggest you re-check your valve timing. Comp cams offers a method called lift@ TDC no degree wheel required. You WILL have to know where true tdc is on your balancer, find your grind # , in your case 3354s int. and 3355s exh. and look them up in your comp master catalog, it will state your lift @ tdc for each lobe in inches, then you put your dial indicator on the lifter or pushrod to read and see if all adds up. Google , comp cams lift @ tdc, Prestige motorsports has a great video on this subject. FWIW our cam specs are nearly identical but I had comp build me a reduced base circle bumpstick and I run more compression ratio.
  12. Tony-Muscle, Sorry for my incompetence, sticky tires and track prep would be a must. Just had a flashback of when I had bfg's on the rear, would finally hook when I shifted to 3rd. total smoke show.
  13. Tony-Muscle, Would have been nice to see A/F and wheel speed on that chart, guessing then wheel slip would have been a no brainer to pick out. Also you could have made a run with learning OFF and in open loop and known if you had an exhaust leak skewing your mixture. When you get a dyno run at a rally you don't get much, a good ET slip and some race math might prove more than that dyno graph. Typically at motorcycle rally's one got between 20 and 25 minutes for a run, much more quantity than quality.
  14. Tony-muscle, Looking at your GREEN hp numbers in the 5 to 6 K range, where the hp is falling off. i see a small dip then it comes up a little then a bigger dip then it comes back again, that should never happen. I dont have a lot of v-8 dyno experience, but over 60 runs with my shovelhead stroker, and have spent a lot a lot of time analyzing dyno charts. As c9zx states, get a backup run from someone else before you wrench, may save hair and money.
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