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boilermaster last won the day on May 12 2020

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About boilermaster

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    I get my mail here

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    71 fastback


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  1. 7173vert, once I get to zero lash (with positive stop) I will put my ratchet handle to a clock position and then count how far it goes before the bolt starts reaching torque, (that will tell you how much preload you actually have. If over 1 full turn, will usually add one of the little Crane rocker shims, thinner of the two that usually come in a standard pack. Boilermaster
  2. KCmash, Sorry, I have been gone for quite some time. Just a little food for thought; before you had the primaries drilled , did you first try opening the secondary butterflys to achieve a proper idle ? That seems to be the standard procedure, perhaps the primaries are now at full bind CLOSED because of the secondarys being opened from a previous setting ? Boilermaster
  3. Cribbs 74, If you choose to install a T5, or any Tremec for that matter, make sure you dial indicate the the centerline of the crankshaft to the bell housing opening. I BELIEVE the spec is 0.005'' because the Tremecs use a tapered mainshaft front bearing. Clean both the engine to bell flange and bell housing flange, you need do do both radial and axial runout (do radial first), i used shim stock between the engine block and bell housing to dial it in, and you MAY need offset dowel pins to get the AXIAL runout within specifications. If you are using a adapter plate, take you
  4. 73'Mach 1, Tnfastbk and c9zx offer sound advise, I would only add that Holley states that one should start their tune with the spark advance feature turned off and work off of your existing distributor advance curves. also get your IAC really dialed in , If you don't have air conditioning shut the ac kick feature OFF. it will help you dial in the IAC easier.- when you have your air/fuel FULLY dialed in and your learn tables are are almost ZERO then would be the time to let the sniper handle your ignition advance. I have installed a few of these systems on friends cars and found
  5. Jackf, Glad you got your problem sorted, a couple of things to consider when dealing with drum brakes and backing plates and wheel bearings. Don't just take it for granted that the backing plates are true to the axle flange/ wheel hub. Backing plates can and will bend and the same holds with the brake shoes themselves. When doing a drum brake job, take the time to lay the shoes on a known flat surface and make sure all 3 contact pads line up on where they are going to rest on the backing plate. do NOT ask why I know this! . also I like to use a simple sliding square from the axle to
  6. SteveO-71, If you are just going to compare cylinders to cylinders, then Not opening the carb to wide open would be ok. I you are looking for real world numbers then the throttle needs wide open. With the throttle closed, your numbers WILL be lower. NO AIR IN = NO AIR TO COMPRESS for a 9.5 compression ratio 125 psi is ideal 10.0 = 132psi 10.5 = 139psi 11.0 = 147psi Boilermaster
  7. Bruce180vf, How did you bleed the clutch master ? not likely that you have air trapped in the release bearing assy, but quite likely you may have air trapped in the master. was the car on a lift when you installed and bled the master or on jack stands ? If so you might want to check the angle of the masters bore if it was not level the air may have no place to exit. 2 different methods of bleeding come to mind here, reverse bleeding at the bleeder screw and a rubber tipped syringe to go over the bleeder (use a little Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder) if that method does not
  8. Just wondering if anyone is using the PerTronix digital hp ignition box? It appears to have ALL of the features of the MSD boxes plus a 2 stage and 3rd. stage and timing retard just like the OEM duraspark units have. No having to purchase a seperate 2 step and is less expensive than the MSD units. Thoughts and opinions please. Boilermaster
  9. Ballaratcastle, Here is a link to add staggered shocks to your stang, so easy I did it myself. https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/staggered-rear-shocks-for-any-mustang.489854/ Just need some square tube, plate steel and an extra lower shock plate to locate on the square tube and all but eliminates wheel hop. Boilermaster
  10. Jpaz, You must have a great tune, as you have the same primary and secondary jetting as myself lol. Boilermaster
  11. Jedoens, Welcome from Cooks, Mi. USA All of your questions WILL get answered here.
  12. Mustangnj, 4 speed car ? looks like reverse light switch wiring, check if your reverse lights are working. Boilermaster
  13. All good points here fella's, I totally whiffed on the small driveshaft and rear yoke, that WOULD be a deal breaker for me. On the staggered shocks, there is info on the net to do a bolt on upper mount and different lower plate to convert to staggered shocks. I did this mod, very easy, just some square tube and flat stock, used one of the discarded lower plates for the top shock thru hole, Lets see what Ballaratcastle has for shocks, driveshaft and diff flange first. Boilermaster
  14. Ballaratcastle, your speedometer error signals that there is more than tire size at issue here. You had mentioned that you had recently replaced the rear shock absorbers, do you recall if your rear shocks were (staggered) Staggered rear shocks will have 1 shock forward and one aft of the rear axle. The reason that I ask is if you are going to use a LSD locking axle you are going to want staggered rear shocks to prevent wheel hop. The rear tires you currently have are still not going to help too much with traction if going to a locking differential, most will fit a 255/60R15 and still
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