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boilermaster last won the day on May 12 2020

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About boilermaster

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    I get my mail here

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    71 fastback


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  1. Jackf, Glad you got your problem sorted, a couple of things to consider when dealing with drum brakes and backing plates and wheel bearings. Don't just take it for granted that the backing plates are true to the axle flange/ wheel hub. Backing plates can and will bend and the same holds with the brake shoes themselves. When doing a drum brake job, take the time to lay the shoes on a known flat surface and make sure all 3 contact pads line up on where they are going to rest on the backing plate. do NOT ask why I know this! . also I like to use a simple sliding square from the axle to
  2. SteveO-71, If you are just going to compare cylinders to cylinders, then Not opening the carb to wide open would be ok. I you are looking for real world numbers then the throttle needs wide open. With the throttle closed, your numbers WILL be lower. NO AIR IN = NO AIR TO COMPRESS for a 9.5 compression ratio 125 psi is ideal 10.0 = 132psi 10.5 = 139psi 11.0 = 147psi Boilermaster
  3. Bruce180vf, How did you bleed the clutch master ? not likely that you have air trapped in the release bearing assy, but quite likely you may have air trapped in the master. was the car on a lift when you installed and bled the master or on jack stands ? If so you might want to check the angle of the masters bore if it was not level the air may have no place to exit. 2 different methods of bleeding come to mind here, reverse bleeding at the bleeder screw and a rubber tipped syringe to go over the bleeder (use a little Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder) if that method does not
  4. Just wondering if anyone is using the PerTronix digital hp ignition box? It appears to have ALL of the features of the MSD boxes plus a 2 stage and 3rd. stage and timing retard just like the OEM duraspark units have. No having to purchase a seperate 2 step and is less expensive than the MSD units. Thoughts and opinions please. Boilermaster
  5. Ballaratcastle, Here is a link to add staggered shocks to your stang, so easy I did it myself. https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/staggered-rear-shocks-for-any-mustang.489854/ Just need some square tube, plate steel and an extra lower shock plate to locate on the square tube and all but eliminates wheel hop. Boilermaster
  6. Jpaz, You must have a great tune, as you have the same primary and secondary jetting as myself lol. Boilermaster
  7. Jedoens, Welcome from Cooks, Mi. USA All of your questions WILL get answered here.
  8. Mustangnj, 4 speed car ? looks like reverse light switch wiring, check if your reverse lights are working. Boilermaster
  9. All good points here fella's, I totally whiffed on the small driveshaft and rear yoke, that WOULD be a deal breaker for me. On the staggered shocks, there is info on the net to do a bolt on upper mount and different lower plate to convert to staggered shocks. I did this mod, very easy, just some square tube and flat stock, used one of the discarded lower plates for the top shock thru hole, Lets see what Ballaratcastle has for shocks, driveshaft and diff flange first. Boilermaster
  10. Ballaratcastle, your speedometer error signals that there is more than tire size at issue here. You had mentioned that you had recently replaced the rear shock absorbers, do you recall if your rear shocks were (staggered) Staggered rear shocks will have 1 shock forward and one aft of the rear axle. The reason that I ask is if you are going to use a LSD locking axle you are going to want staggered rear shocks to prevent wheel hop. The rear tires you currently have are still not going to help too much with traction if going to a locking differential, most will fit a 255/60R15 and still
  11. From water pump pulley to back of fan is about 1.75” A 2 5/8” spacer May put the clutch fan into the radiator. Klinton 994, a 7/8'' spacer will put your clutch fan in the same place as the standard flex fan that uses the 2-5/8'' spacer. I was NOT suggesting that you use a 2-5/8'' spacer, but trying to get you to compare the length of that 2-5/8'' spacer to the length of your fan clutch. Boilermaster
  12. Klinton 994, It looks like the standard fan spacer measures 2-5/8'' so measure from the water pump pulley to the fan and see if you are close to that measurement. If you come up short, pretty sure you can buy fan spacers of just about any thickness. or hope someone chimes in with an actual measurement from the front of the fan to radiator. I am running pretty much the same setup except 429 3 core radiator and have no issues. Boilermaster
  13. C9zx, True TDC is indeed in question here. My thinking is if I can get Big Red Mach 1 to advance his ignition until it spark knocks and then back off 2 degrees, it could raise his vacuum readings at idle and if his vacuum does indeed increase, that would be a half assed way of confirming that his cam timing is not retarded ? does that make sense to you chuck ? if Big red hit 15hg. valve timing should not be retarded. Boilermaster
  14. C9zx, The nice thing about comp cams is that they list lobe lift @ tdc , so no degree wheel needed if you actually know where true tdc is. Just look up your lobe profile in their master catalog and they give you the spec. from there you can do the math to figure out exactly where you are. I must admit that finding my lobes in the pdf catalog was a pain, but no degree wheel needed, just a dial indicator. So one can actually CHECK cam timing without removing the timing cover, unfortunately changing cam timing is a little more involved. Boilermaster
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