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boilermaster last won the day on May 12 2020

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  1. sorry Bentworker, Forgot which of the blocky you have in there now. I have always used primary jet for cruise A/F and power valve restriction for jetting when the power valve is open. you may want to get jetting a little more dialed in before swapping air bleeds.
  2. Bentworker, I would want to where my secondary throttle blades are at when you get that fat 70 mph highway cruise. And if my power valve is open or closed at 70 mph cruise.. if your power valve is still closed and secondarys are still closed then smaller primary jet, if power valve is open then reduce power valve restriction . wot afr should be adjusted with secondary jetting only, but bear in mind that pvcr reduction or primary jetting will have an impact at WOT.
  3. is the ashtray in the ashtray holder ? that is what keeps pressure on the lid to keep it closed.
  4. Dude, I am using the same water pump as you are, however I am using a WCCC #53234 restrictor plate that allows me to use a WINDSOR type thermostat ( 195degree) the WCCC #53234 restrictor uses a (tiny bleed hole) that is recessed a little bit that allows the use of the windsor tstat. I have never cared for the Cleveland style bypass and the crappy way it bypasses. (guess I pulled out too many fully opened cleveland thermostats that one could plainly see that the bypass cup would be off centered when fully opened. Also have run into the 160 degree thermostat issues and EFI, they just plain DONT like a 160 degree thermostat and will not learn well when they are constantly going back and forth between OPEN and CLOSED loop because the learn threshold is generally 165 degrees F. your engine will also last a lot longer with a 190 or 195 degree stat. I am using a 50 year old original 429 rad and shroud and a mechanical gauge and have ZERO cooling issues after using the smaller pulley and Windsor style restrictor and thermostat. Boliermaster
  5. Dude, what water pump pulley are you using ? C90Z- 8509- B is listed @ 6-61/64'' and is generally used on non ac cars. C90Z-8509- C is listed as 5-15/16'' and is used on ac cars, it will speed up your water pump. I was having the same issue as you described and swapping pulleys worked for me, at least throw a tape across your pulley to determine which one you have, if you do a swap, don't forget you will need a shorter belt. Boilermaster
  6. Grego, Don C brings up a very valid point (as always). Since this is a NEW build how we know that your issue is not a base engine issue such as valve timing , lifter preload or distributor phasing ? Holley does state that one should get a good base tune before letting the sniper control timing. do you per chance have a known good carb, mechanical distributor and fuel pressure regulator ? I know it is a stretch, but you could be looking at a very long road without knowing how your base engine stacks up, and if you have to bring it to a professional tuner, that can be pretty costly as well. a couple things to look at would be map readings at hot idle (KPA) and convert that over to inches of vacuum and see if that corresponds to your cam card specs, cranking compression ( actual ) might be useful. Boilermaster
  7. Grego & 73'mach1, closing throttle blades will raise iac numbers NOT lower them. After getting the iac where you want it and cycling the key to re zero tps one needs to make sure iac is repeatable, ask me how I know. Boilermaster
  8. GREGO, iac around 20 warming up is meaningless, you need to know what it is fully warmed up in closed loop. AFR readings the same 12.5 would be not a good situation at idle or cruise, go back on in the wizard and see what your targets are. 12.5 is great for WOT but poor choices anywhere else. Boilermaster
  9. Grego, Check your timimg with a timing light at idle and make sure it matches the parameters you setup in the wizard. what is your iac reading at idle with engine at operating temperature ? what are your idle and cruise settings in the wizard ? Do you get to closed loop? and are you seeing idle learning and learning during cruise. Typically one would want around 13.5 afr at idle and around 14.0 @ cruise. if your iac numbers are over about 8 or so you will have issues transitioning from idle to cruise, your engine SHOULD be able to idle with the iac opening closed off completely off with a heavy piece of tape. If you cannot get the iac less than 10, i would suggest you completely cover the iac opening with tape and set your idle rpm 50 rpms less than your target rpm. Boilermaster
  10. Bentworker, 3000 to 3400 all in is a pretty good standard and I would go with the bushing that allows the least mechanical (9 degrees dist. 18 @ crank. this will allow you some leeway to adjust base timing without overshooting total timing. You may be able to tolerate more total timing with the aluminum heads, but that is by NO means where your best power has to be. You may find best power @ less than the typical non stroker is. Boilermaster
  11. 73 mach1, lots of room for speculation here, for me its all about whos dyno, who is operating the dyno and how much loss from engine to tires. I have a similar 408 with very similar camshaft but closed chambers and 10.6 static and 8.1 dynamic. on software 1 am anywhere from 500 to 520 hp. at the crank, its all in the translation. where did you have emi/rfi on your sniper?, I have installed a few of these units on gm cars and have not encountered any of this as of yet, i did install the secret emi tape and redundant grounds before installs and thats what I am crediting my sucess to.
  12. 164 runner, I think you want C9OE 8509 F water pump pulley. Boilermaster
  13. 164 runner, you did not state if you have an ac car or not. ac cars and non ac cars use different diameter water pump pulleys and the ac pulley is smaller and turns faster. I had this same issue with my 408 C (429 radiator and shroud) went to the local pick and pull and got a pulley for an ac car, (as i remember it was a 71 LTD w 400 engine and problem solved. also using clutched fan. you would also have to install shorter belt with the smaller pulley. Boilermaster
  14. 7173vert, once I get to zero lash (with positive stop) I will put my ratchet handle to a clock position and then count how far it goes before the bolt starts reaching torque, (that will tell you how much preload you actually have. If over 1 full turn, will usually add one of the little Crane rocker shims, thinner of the two that usually come in a standard pack. Boilermaster
  15. KCmash, Sorry, I have been gone for quite some time. Just a little food for thought; before you had the primaries drilled , did you first try opening the secondary butterflys to achieve a proper idle ? That seems to be the standard procedure, perhaps the primaries are now at full bind CLOSED because of the secondarys being opened from a previous setting ? Boilermaster
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