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Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. .576/.588 @.006 284/290 @.050 224/230 110 lsa @.050 int. open 6 BTDC close 38 ABDC @.050 exh. open 49 BBDC close 1 ATDC I am also running 10.4 CR, no time slips or dyno runs,
  2. Tony-Muscle, If you are going to pull rocker covers, I would suggest you re-check your valve timing. Comp cams offers a method called lift@ TDC no degree wheel required. You WILL have to know where true tdc is on your balancer, find your grind # , in your case 3354s int. and 3355s exh. and look them up in your comp master catalog, it will state your lift @ tdc for each lobe in inches, then you put your dial indicator on the lifter or pushrod to read and see if all adds up. Google , comp cams lift @ tdc, Prestige motorsports has a great video on this subject. FWIW our cam specs are nearly identical but I had comp build me a reduced base circle bumpstick and I run more compression ratio.
  3. Tony-Muscle, Sorry for my incompetence, sticky tires and track prep would be a must. Just had a flashback of when I had bfg's on the rear, would finally hook when I shifted to 3rd. total smoke show.
  4. Tony-Muscle, Would have been nice to see A/F and wheel speed on that chart, guessing then wheel slip would have been a no brainer to pick out. Also you could have made a run with learning OFF and in open loop and known if you had an exhaust leak skewing your mixture. When you get a dyno run at a rally you don't get much, a good ET slip and some race math might prove more than that dyno graph. Typically at motorcycle rally's one got between 20 and 25 minutes for a run, much more quantity than quality.
  5. Tony-muscle, Looking at your GREEN hp numbers in the 5 to 6 K range, where the hp is falling off. i see a small dip then it comes up a little then a bigger dip then it comes back again, that should never happen. I dont have a lot of v-8 dyno experience, but over 60 runs with my shovelhead stroker, and have spent a lot a lot of time analyzing dyno charts. As c9zx states, get a backup run from someone else before you wrench, may save hair and money.
  6. Well according to Midlife, ( if I had your money, I would throw mine away). You asked for it Midlife, you got it. I count salvage yard time as HEALING TIME and I sure need a lot of that. If Modern Driveline would just make the shorter input shaft, that would make things a lot easier, then of course they would also have to make a different crossmember for our cars, but one could then use their stock length driveshaft. Boilermaster
  7. 73inNH, Motorcraft EV50 pcv valve comes to mind as a small orifice pcv valve for the Cleveland engines. As for the bog, has correct fuel pressure been verified ? Fairly easy with a Holley vacuum secondary carb when the secondary spring is too weak, don't know on the AVS if there is a way to Deactivate the secondary linkage or not.
  8. 73inNH, DonC, as usual nailed it. With just a breather on the passenger side rocker cover (open to atmosphere) and the pcv valve connected to the pcv port on your carb, you would have what is called an (open pcv system) With the breather going to the carb, you will have a (closed pcv system) which is more efficient. PCV valve selection is Critical,
  9. 73inNH, IF your breather in the passenger side is open to the atmosphere , it has to overcome atmospheric pressure to flow. If the breather is inside the air cleaner (as this system was stock) it uses the engines intake airflow to overcome that atmospheric pressure in order to work properly. pressure and vacuum always trying to equalize, it's a funny thing. Boilermaster
  10. 73inNH, Just to be 100% clear here, The OEM pcv setup on our cars were designed to have a vacuum side and a pressure side. The vacuum side consists of a vacuum port at the carb (or spacer under the carb) for pcv vacuum and pcv valve in the left rocker cover. The pcv pressure side consists of a grommet, elbows and an attachment to the air cleaner to allow the pressure side to be drawn into the air cleaner to allow the system to flow. If you don't allow the system to actually flow, all you are getting is a metered vacuum leak. FWIW, If you are running stock valve covers with a twist on oil cap make sure the cap still has baffeling material in it. If you are running aftermarket covers with press in covers you need to have a way to baffle the oil or you will end up with oil being sucked thru the pcv system and an oil consumption issue and possible engine damage. I think you are doing this correctly, just want to be 100% thanks for understanding. Boilermaster
  11. bigfoot72, Go back and read your very first sentence of your thread, you state you want to get your timing correct BEFORE adjusting your carb!. The people in the know here are going to tell you it is Not the main jetting and SURELY not the secondary jetting. Stanglover has shown you what to look for in the distributor, you NEEDto do that first.
  12. Paul at Modern Driveline knew about the truck bellhousings being deeper, he stated good luck finding one, little did he know that I had gone thru some in looking for the aluminum bell I am now using, will still have to use a 1/4'' spacer between the bell and trans. As suspected shorter input shafts are not currently being produced. If one is to use the standard bell for our cars the MD crossmember will not fit Yes, I will have to get my driveshaft shortened or purchase another one. One more point on bellhousings as I am still researching, I believe there are both hydraulic and mechanical versions of this deeper bell and guess what ? that means either a longer release bearing or some sort of standoff at the pivot point (low and behold these pieces can be had on ebay in 2 different versions. All in all my new quote stands @ $3,821.76 with perhaps a little more trimming to do if I am able to make one of my Hurst handles work. Anyone looking for a used Toploader, shifter and aluminum bell ? Boilermaster
  13. Talked to Paul at Modern Driveline, super helpful and great guy to talk to. Expecting a new quote, he told me what was available and what was not and my best route. Lesson learned, go to the source Boilermaster
  14. This just in. I kind of remember when I was searching for my aluminum bellhousing (C5az 6392 d) that I went thru about 3 or 4 bells that had the same small block pattern (engine) and trans pattern that were about 1/2'' too deep and are for 1983-84 ford trucks David Kee makes mention of this on his web sight. Ebay also tries to sucker mustang people into buying these for our cars, I know these are for 164 tooth flywheel and 11'' clutch, just don't know which ones would be for hydraulic or mechanical linkage, got the bell I am using now for like 20 or 30 bucks, might have to visit this place again in the near future.
  15. 73inNH. Look for oil dripping between the engine plate and bell housing or between the bell and front of the transmission. I usually like to take the spring off and look for about 1/8'' between the release lever and adjuster at the pivot. you should be able to spread the two with your thumb and fingers.
  16. 73inNH, Pretty sure Don means leaking oil on the clutch disc. Otherwise that would be a new one on me.
  17. Bigfoot72, For anyone to be able to help you, we are going to need to know these specifics. 1 what pump slot is your accelerator pump in ? 2 what is your base timing 3 what is your idle speed (with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) 4 how many (distributor degrees) is your mechanical advance your distributor should have 2 slots 180 degrees and only one of these two slots will be occupied (might say 10L or 13L. you can also tell how much mechanical advance you have by subtracting your TOTAL timing (where it quits advancing with timing light and subtracting that from your base timing (divided by 2)
  18. OK, So only the 10 spline transmission offers the Ford (wide pattern) which I am guessing is 8-1/2'' x 6-1/4'' with 4-13/16'' opening All the 26 spline transmissions are (TKO) bolt pattern. Both 501-18085 (26 spline) and 501-18086 (10 spline) offer a shortened input shaft (guessing that is special order ? and would have to wait for it to be manufactured. The bellhousing adapter does (fix) the input shaft length issue, but pretty sure it adds driveshaft length issue. Would have to see what wait time would be for shortened input vs perhaps buying or shortening my driveshaft, then there's the crossmember issue. 501-18085 (26 spline) is on backorder while 501-18086 has limited stock, so it looks like it is hurry up and wait or hurry up and spend. Boilermaster P.S. I do have somewhat sticky tires 275/50r15 Nitto drag radials, I don't drag race a lot, but I like spirited driving. Boilermaster
  19. Hemikiller, I would be elated if I only had to get just a 26 spline clutch disc. I did email MD and asked if the input shaft could be shortened of if I would have to purchase an extra and shorten it myself. I will have to research and see if all the mounting bolt patterns for the 26 spline units are the same as toploader. Also just a guess, but with no quicktime bell or adapter plate, would the TKX transmission crossmember be rendered useless ? Not that it would be difficult to build one. Would be very nice to buy this transmission for $ 2795 without not a lot of extra parts and have it look like it belongs in the car. Will do my research and see what I can come up with, BTY, if you have the toploader bolt pattern specs handy you could post them. Boilermaster
  20. Don, I spelled out to Modern Driveline word for word exactly what I had and what I wanted. Perhaps I got the same guy that works from home for Comp Cams.
  21. OK, Truth be known, I have been looking for a 5 speed manual for quite sometime, Decide to email Modern Driveline and ask for a quote. I tell them what I have (71 stang, 408 C , zero balance flywheel @ 164 tooth count and using OEM aluminum bell with 11'' long clutch which is already dialed in to near perfect runout. I assumed they would offer me a 10 spline transmission pn # MD- 501-18086, Nope they want to sell me a 26 spline ( pn 501-17765 along with a quicktime bell @ $777.00 , a clutch cable kit for $249.00, shift lever for$ 136.00 and all the other goodies for a total of $4,855 when their transmission sells for only $2,799.00. On top of that, I would still have to switch to a 26 spline clutch disc and still get a shortened driveshaft. So my options are, go with the 10 spline transmission and a bellhousing adapter and non stock release arm and or hydraulic release bearing set up and still a custom driveshaft ? How about a input shaft that requires no special bellhousing, no adapter plate and be able to use the OEM driveshaft ? Is it just me, or is Tremec going about this all wrong ? Boilermaster
  22. 73inNH. Bentworker makes a good point. if you adjusted your idle mixture with the pcv disconnected and plugged and then added it to the mix you are going to be leaner than you were before, also what pcv valve are you using ? different pcv valves have different metering values. I too like the ME wagner adjustable pcv valve, also 650 rpm idle speed seems a tad low (by todays standards) unless you have a totally stock engine and I have no clue how the transfer slots work on your particular carb.
  23. 73in N. I am not a Edelbrock/Carter guru by any means, strictly Holley spoken here, however, I see you have your accelerator pump in the richest position and Clevelands Do like quite a bit of accelerator pump right now. That being said, with the engine fully warmed and choke fully opened and at idle position (engine off to save eyebrows) Have you checked to see if your pump nozzles are supplying fuel the very instant the throttle blades are moved off the idle position ? Sounds very trivial, but this needs to happen to keep from a lean tip in regardless of how much total pump shot volume you might have. You could even have a lean tip in with too much pump shot if your pump linkage is not right. costs you zero money and very little time to check this (unless you go the scorched eyebrows route) Boilermaster
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