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Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. 73SGM Mach, Sounds like you are in need of some accelerator pump tuning. Would you please post your Holley carbs list number so we can see what pump nozzle your carb came with ? You might end up having to buy a new larger nozzle, there is more to tuning a Holley pump but it is pretty common to need a larger nozzle on a Cleveland 4 V.
  2. fordismyboss, Hey jerry makes a good point about the tc nuts, defenitely go there first. I can only add that the oil pump pickup is threaded to the oil pump, it is remotely possible that it is not level with the bottom of the oil pan or worse yet loose by one complete thread. When I have a pan off, I always check the bottom of the pickup with a level. The only way that I can think of to check this would be to take like a hammer handle and press against the bottom of the pan (as it will give a little bit) and see if the noise changes when pressure is applied or released. You might be able to get a visual with the oil drained and a very good light or borescope. lastly, if the oil dipstick tube is not seized you could see if removing or rotating it has any bearing on your noise. Hope this does not seem too far fetched, but when the obvious wont work, try something else. Boilermaster
  3. Quality brake rotors (coated) for Fords seem to take 3 or 4 days here in upper Michigan. Other items that my local NAPA store always had in stock are not there, they can be had from another store the same day, but my store had to employ another full time driver, that's gotta be driving prices up. I always call now before driving 15 minutes to town, less disapointments that way.
  4. I put the console where it fit the shifter well , with painters tape under the screw holes in the console and marked each one with a sharpie. from there I removed the console and heated a piece of 3/16'' brake tubing with no flare red hot and simply melted thru the carpet. Stinky and hard on the eyes, but very effective, just drilled my holes from there, I could actually see where the screws needed to go. That's all I am willing to confess to today.
  5. Ok, After some unavoidable delays the TKX is in (well partially ) re -dialed the bellhousing and only had to make a small adjustment to the parallelism of the engine block to the face of the bell opening, I did this by adding two pieces of .016'' shim stock between the separator plate and bell at the top 2 bellhousing bolts. When I then measured the concentricity it was only .002'' , I bet I made 3 or 4 complete 360's to verify. I was able to remove the toploader without removing the exhaust but knew that was not going to be the case when installing the TKX , boy was I right. That darn TKX shifter and the shifter opening, very tight to the right side and the Kwik stik shifter, finally she went in, all in one instant and I was in. Installed the transmission bolts, then pumped the transmission jack and there is my problem, the side tower of the shifter is really tight to the totally virgin OEM shifter opening, I cannot get the TKX high enough in the rear to install the crossmember and rear mount, l now have the crossmember installed with no mount, just to let it rest in place. It appears as I will need to trim about 3/4 to1'' from the right side of my shifter opening or cut out the opening as a whole and move it over just enough to clear and still fit my full length console. Will be calling Paul at MDL tomorrow, just to verify I have the correct shifter, although they only list one for our cars. On the other hand it looks good so far for not having to buy a new driveshaft by using the super short (3.5'' Daytona) pinion yoke. That yoke is on a newly rebuilt 3.70 center section that is ready to install, just wanted to have the trans in place first. Sorry I have been away for a while as of late but my computer keypad has issues and I am using an alternative on screen keypad that I just learned to use, being a one finger typist is really slow.
  6. Kcmash, You probably wont have to worry, because if Brent Lykins is going to spec. and build a cam for you, he will probably NOT let you use the (spider & dogbones) there are 2 threaded holes that need to be added to the valley in the block and some Clevelands also need machining around the lifter bores for the dogbones to sit level when both lifters are at the bottom of their bores. As I recall, max. lift with the spider and dogbones is just a little over .500'' valve lift. Plan on going link bars and measuring for custom length pushrods.
  7. OK, Pulled the trigger on the TKX today. I will have a 1350 type slip joint, pretty sure I will just have to make a u joint change in the front and should wind up having the front and rear u joints being the same. Not 100% on the driveshaft length, MDL offers a 50'' driveshaft for our cars and my current is 50- 21/32'' and have 1-1/4'' clearence with the suspension fully loaded. the bellhousing spacer is 11/16'' thick, my secret weapon is a super short Yukon gear rear yoke that measures .730'' shorter than the standard 4'' Daytona yoke, gonna be a wait and see situation. Paul says I should start seeing packages in about a week, Paul IS a super dude and we talked quite a bit, come to find out he has a brother about 2 hrs. from me with a 7173 as well. small world.
  8. 73'mach1, 10 years ago, I would have called Don's statement rubbish, but the fact is it's very true (at least where our iron heads are concerned. Pretty sure this all came about when the MoCo started dropping compression ratios and then everyone thought compression ratio was the ONLY way to build power, blame it all on the Boss and its (advertised compression ratio and horsepower).
  9. Kcmash. Looks like you got some homework to do before you start doing your homework. 1 figure out what octane fuel you intend to use. 2 how are the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and cylinder block. if too much material has to be removed to make surfaces true, that MAY influence your piston choice. 3 piston selection. you need to choose carefully, with closed chamber heads and the wrong compression height, or amount of dish will influence your static compression ratio. 4 dynamic compression ratio , after amount of machine work figured and a piston choice is made then you can make a camshaft choice based on the type of fuel you want to choose, there are calculators out there, once your static compression ratio is determined that you can input your desired camshaft specifications into and come up with with with a dynamic compression ratio that will make your engine detonation free and long lasting. Get it wrong and your engine could be a real slug or worse yet a detonation prone failure. To my experience 8.0 to about 8.2 dynamic compression ratio is about maximum for 91 octane zero ethanol fuel. Boilermaster
  10. .576/.588 @.006 284/290 @.050 224/230 110 lsa @.050 int. open 6 BTDC close 38 ABDC @.050 exh. open 49 BBDC close 1 ATDC I am also running 10.4 CR, no time slips or dyno runs,
  11. Tony-Muscle, If you are going to pull rocker covers, I would suggest you re-check your valve timing. Comp cams offers a method called lift@ TDC no degree wheel required. You WILL have to know where true tdc is on your balancer, find your grind # , in your case 3354s int. and 3355s exh. and look them up in your comp master catalog, it will state your lift @ tdc for each lobe in inches, then you put your dial indicator on the lifter or pushrod to read and see if all adds up. Google , comp cams lift @ tdc, Prestige motorsports has a great video on this subject. FWIW our cam specs are nearly identical but I had comp build me a reduced base circle bumpstick and I run more compression ratio.
  12. Tony-Muscle, Sorry for my incompetence, sticky tires and track prep would be a must. Just had a flashback of when I had bfg's on the rear, would finally hook when I shifted to 3rd. total smoke show.
  13. Tony-Muscle, Would have been nice to see A/F and wheel speed on that chart, guessing then wheel slip would have been a no brainer to pick out. Also you could have made a run with learning OFF and in open loop and known if you had an exhaust leak skewing your mixture. When you get a dyno run at a rally you don't get much, a good ET slip and some race math might prove more than that dyno graph. Typically at motorcycle rally's one got between 20 and 25 minutes for a run, much more quantity than quality.
  14. Tony-muscle, Looking at your GREEN hp numbers in the 5 to 6 K range, where the hp is falling off. i see a small dip then it comes up a little then a bigger dip then it comes back again, that should never happen. I dont have a lot of v-8 dyno experience, but over 60 runs with my shovelhead stroker, and have spent a lot a lot of time analyzing dyno charts. As c9zx states, get a backup run from someone else before you wrench, may save hair and money.
  15. Well according to Midlife, ( if I had your money, I would throw mine away). You asked for it Midlife, you got it. I count salvage yard time as HEALING TIME and I sure need a lot of that. If Modern Driveline would just make the shorter input shaft, that would make things a lot easier, then of course they would also have to make a different crossmember for our cars, but one could then use their stock length driveshaft. Boilermaster
  16. 73inNH, Motorcraft EV50 pcv valve comes to mind as a small orifice pcv valve for the Cleveland engines. As for the bog, has correct fuel pressure been verified ? Fairly easy with a Holley vacuum secondary carb when the secondary spring is too weak, don't know on the AVS if there is a way to Deactivate the secondary linkage or not.
  17. 73inNH, DonC, as usual nailed it. With just a breather on the passenger side rocker cover (open to atmosphere) and the pcv valve connected to the pcv port on your carb, you would have what is called an (open pcv system) With the breather going to the carb, you will have a (closed pcv system) which is more efficient. PCV valve selection is Critical,
  18. 73inNH, IF your breather in the passenger side is open to the atmosphere , it has to overcome atmospheric pressure to flow. If the breather is inside the air cleaner (as this system was stock) it uses the engines intake airflow to overcome that atmospheric pressure in order to work properly. pressure and vacuum always trying to equalize, it's a funny thing. Boilermaster
  19. 73inNH, Just to be 100% clear here, The OEM pcv setup on our cars were designed to have a vacuum side and a pressure side. The vacuum side consists of a vacuum port at the carb (or spacer under the carb) for pcv vacuum and pcv valve in the left rocker cover. The pcv pressure side consists of a grommet, elbows and an attachment to the air cleaner to allow the pressure side to be drawn into the air cleaner to allow the system to flow. If you don't allow the system to actually flow, all you are getting is a metered vacuum leak. FWIW, If you are running stock valve covers with a twist on oil cap make sure the cap still has baffeling material in it. If you are running aftermarket covers with press in covers you need to have a way to baffle the oil or you will end up with oil being sucked thru the pcv system and an oil consumption issue and possible engine damage. I think you are doing this correctly, just want to be 100% thanks for understanding. Boilermaster
  20. bigfoot72, Go back and read your very first sentence of your thread, you state you want to get your timing correct BEFORE adjusting your carb!. The people in the know here are going to tell you it is Not the main jetting and SURELY not the secondary jetting. Stanglover has shown you what to look for in the distributor, you NEEDto do that first.
  21. Paul at Modern Driveline knew about the truck bellhousings being deeper, he stated good luck finding one, little did he know that I had gone thru some in looking for the aluminum bell I am now using, will still have to use a 1/4'' spacer between the bell and trans. As suspected shorter input shafts are not currently being produced. If one is to use the standard bell for our cars the MD crossmember will not fit Yes, I will have to get my driveshaft shortened or purchase another one. One more point on bellhousings as I am still researching, I believe there are both hydraulic and mechanical versions of this deeper bell and guess what ? that means either a longer release bearing or some sort of standoff at the pivot point (low and behold these pieces can be had on ebay in 2 different versions. All in all my new quote stands @ $3,821.76 with perhaps a little more trimming to do if I am able to make one of my Hurst handles work. Anyone looking for a used Toploader, shifter and aluminum bell ? Boilermaster
  22. Talked to Paul at Modern Driveline, super helpful and great guy to talk to. Expecting a new quote, he told me what was available and what was not and my best route. Lesson learned, go to the source Boilermaster
  23. This just in. I kind of remember when I was searching for my aluminum bellhousing (C5az 6392 d) that I went thru about 3 or 4 bells that had the same small block pattern (engine) and trans pattern that were about 1/2'' too deep and are for 1983-84 ford trucks David Kee makes mention of this on his web sight. Ebay also tries to sucker mustang people into buying these for our cars, I know these are for 164 tooth flywheel and 11'' clutch, just don't know which ones would be for hydraulic or mechanical linkage, got the bell I am using now for like 20 or 30 bucks, might have to visit this place again in the near future.
  24. 73inNH. Look for oil dripping between the engine plate and bell housing or between the bell and front of the transmission. I usually like to take the spring off and look for about 1/8'' between the release lever and adjuster at the pivot. you should be able to spread the two with your thumb and fingers.
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