Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. Well c9zx, You are indeed correct. Front cam bearing is no where close to being in there square to it's bore. way closer at the bottom than at the top, thus all the wear at 6 O clock. When I compared the top to bottom there was easily .020'' difference and even at the bottom, the bearing is nowhere close to the .003'' to .005'' spec. My best guess is that all of the cam bearings were pulled in place from the front of the engine and therefore would have a difficult time with the tooling and trying to keep it square with so much tool hanging out the front. Got the crankshaft out and the bearings look good (fully grooved mains) @ .010'' and rods the same. Looks like the cylinder bore is +.020'' and deck clearance at TDC= .023'' Might as well measure cylinder head chamber volume tomorrow so I can get a more accurate compression ratio calculation. Lots and lots of cleaning today mostly on the outside of the block and cleaning gasket surfaces and chasing threads. don't see any sense in cleaning the block internals until I remove the cam bearings , will be looking for some cleaning brushes tomorrow as well. That's all for today Boilermaster
  2. Thomas 1984, Kind of reminds me of the old days when I was working at the ford dealership. Some older couple came in and decided to trade in their 1971 LTD cause it smoked a lot , they only used the car to travel from Montana to Michigan where they would vacation. Well I got that car for $100 back in about 1990 , put a transmission vacuum valve in the ole girl and smoke be gone. 429 2V and points. found a 600 holley and a motocraft duraspark that I recurved, man that old car flew. All I had to do to the kickdown was put a holley extender bracket on there and good to go. If I had that combo today, you can bet that the drivetrain would be in my mustang. Boilermaster
  3. My money is on incorrect installation (cocked in the bore). There is a discussion in the ford shop manual concerning the installation of the front cam bearing. Chuck Well, Basstrix and C9TZ, Called and talked to my machinist buddy this A.M. and he did give me some useful information as well as what you guys offer. He likes to install the bearings dry from the rear to front and once the rear bearing is in place, gently install the cam with the remaining bearings still out and see if the camshaft is centered well with respects to how it looks at the front bearings bore. if all looks good install the second bearing and turn by hand with cam gear attached, if all is good, proceed to the next, and so on it goes. He states that this way one can at least tell at what location lies. I do have a 1971 official ford shop manual. I see that some bearings just have the oil hole and others have an elongated slot. Saw some discussion on the net as to what the preferred clocking position should be with the slotted ones. Will definitely pay particular attention to that installed depth of the front. Buddy also states , remove crankshaft and reinstall main caps and torque to specs before removing or installing bearings. Oh well, gotta finish removing engine today and get it on the engine stand. this should also allow for a proper engine bay detailing while the engine is out. Boilermaster
  4. Well, I decided to pull the cam and see what I could see. Dis assembly went well, intake valley nice and clean, pulled the timing cover and saw a double roller timing set with very little play and that's where it went south, when I removed the thrust plate I could see babbet, cam came out with no struggle, but the front cam bearing is wiped out, cannot see if any others are bad, guess she is coming out. in my disgust, I removed the cylinder heads and have just the short block sitting there. On the plus side, the combustion chambers seem happy and am looking at flat top pistons. will measure the deck clearance tomorrow. as I lowered the headers out from under the car I also noticed 2V headers on a 4V engine NOT GOOD. Guess for now a teardown inspection is in order (concerned about main and rod bearings and oil pump. SOOO why failed cam bearing (s) ? I am thinking either poor remanufacture (perhaps did not lap in cam bearings)? I was under the assumption that once a block was (seasoned) that if the cam bearings were lapped in that one should be golden , and the block should not shift further ? Going to see if the dealership I used to work for still has the cam bearing remover/installer and try to decide what type of cam bearings I should install. Will also take a further look at oiling system modifications seeing the crankshaft will be out soon. Going to have to make a NEW parts list. Anyone want to take a gander of why cam bearings failed ? Boilermaster
  5. Don C, got off my butt and removed intake, took more time to clean off the grit around the ports and vacuum it up than it did to actually remove the intake itself. The casting numbers D1ZE- DA with a born on date of 2E25 should make them open chamber. suspecting now some block clean up and or head clean up. Who knows what pistons are being used ? Good thing is CLEAN but with that Holley street dominator, what a port mismatch , I believe it when they state that this manifolds ports are smaller than 2V. That manifold will be on the must sell list. Machine work and stock length pushrods may explain why there was so much lifter preload. (averaged 1-3/4 turns. Now that I have it this far, might as well pull the front cover and radiator, will be time to order up parts on Monday. Boilermaster
  6. Basstrix, Was thinking those numbers were a little on the high side as well, Snap-on comp tester, known good numbers. I am keeping in these things: factory rebuild will almost always have the deck and cylinder heads trued, what pistons were used and is the camshaft in there now contributing to increased cranking compression. Since intake manifold will come off for cam change, I will get a chance to get a look at the casting numbers on the heads. Was also going to replace valve seals while checking valve springs. wonder if one could get a good enough look at the combustion chamber thru an intake port with a valve open (with proper precautions) to determine piston usage and open or closed chamber, just a thought. Barnett468, 3L91 gears, a little steep for my taste, possibly changing to 3L50, supposedly professionally rebuilt C4 transmission, 2800 rpm converter, magnum 500 14'' wheels will be needing new tires. I do not want this to be a drag car, but have at least be at the power level of my previous 4V engines I have built KT69, been on the Pantera website quite a bit for reference, that is where I came up with my part numbers, wish I would have been a good note taker in my younger days. For now, I am leaning towards a copy of the D1ZZ-6250-BX if I find closed chambers and copy of D1ZZ-6250-A or B if I find open chambers. Looks as I will have to determine for myself if I get a copy of the CJ camshaft , if it is early or late valve timing as I cannot get verification from SEALED POWER (CS650) , HOWARDS CAMS (237211-15) or LUNATI (10321004) of their valve timing events. any additional info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Boilermaster Also, I am seeing that Comp Cams makes a flat tappet hydraulic lifter with a diameter listed at .875'' as opposed to the advertised OEM diameter of .874''. My 1972 shop manual lists standard diameter as 0.8740''- 0.8745'' with a clearance to tappet bore of 0.0007'' to 0.0027'' and a wear limit of 0.005''. Thinking of the additional .001'' tappet diameter as (oil control loss prevention ) as well as these lifters have a patented metered oil orifice to the pushrod and rocker. looking at comp cams #832-16 on Summit racing site. anyone ever use these and care to share results ? Boilermaster
  7. That's correct because there isn't any preload that you can do with solid lifters so you need to use a feeler gauge to set the clearance between the rocker arm and valve tip. For hydraulic lifters and the stud mounted rockers you normally turn the nut from 1/4 to 3/4 additional turns after the play is removed from the pushrod. This compresses the hydraulic lifter slightly and uses the oil pressure to take up any clearances so that you don't get the chatter. This is what I would do: **Back off all the nuts and allow the lifters to pump back up. **Rotate the motor to TDC for CYL 1 on compression stroke. **Remove the rocker arms and clean any oil from them and the valve stem tip for cyl #1. **Get a black sharpie and blacken the whole tip of the valve stems. This is normally done for roller tip rockers but I believe the same principle should apply here. **Use the 8.40 pushrods (stock) and put the two rocker arms back on and tighten the nut until all play both up and down and twisting is just removed from the pushrod. Don't over tighten, you just want the play out. **Then turn each nut an additional 5/8 of a turn. This preloads the lifter. **Rotate the motor for 2 compression cycles for #1 cyl, 4 complete turns of the damper. **Remove the rocker arms **Look at the rub pattern of the valve stem tip, it should be centered on the stem. The black sharpie mark will be worn off where the rocker arm contacts the valve stem. You want to see equal wear on both sides of the centerline. Take pics of the wear pattern and post. If the wear is off center it will indicate that a longer or shorter length is required depending on whether the wear is more towards the exhaust or intake manifold. Well, I may have found the solution. I had 2 sets of Polylocks around for some reason. One set has a "skirt" to them that pushed the roller fulcrum down farther on the stud without bottoming out on threads. I set the pushrod length checker to approximately 8.40 inches and tightened the lash out of the rocker. The picture of the assembly shows the rocker position for a closed valve and the 8.4 pushrod length. I have not turned to engine over to check the wear pattern on the valve head, but it looks like these Polylocks will allow me to properly adjust lash with an 8.4 or 8.5 pushrod length. Let me know if you see any areas of concerns in the pictures. I think I am good with a 8.4 length on this setup. My only fear now is if the Boss Valve covers will clear those polylocks. Don, good question above. Am I the only one trying to use adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters? Per the post from John, this is a fresh engine that has not been fired, so nothing has been run and nothing is pumped with oil. I actually bought the setup from another owner locally with all the stuff except for the pushrods, I assembled the engine several years ago, and worked to get the rest of the car together. Would really want to know who makes those funky rockers and rollers. do you know the manufacturer and part numbers ? Boilermaster
  8. Looking for some camshaft suggestions for my 351 C4v. Engine is a factory rebuild of some sort, compression = 155-160 across the board and leakdown is in the 10 % range 4v heads with dot (assuming open chamber ) by 2E25 date code , but not 100% sure. 750 Holley vac.secondary's and unknown headers but in very good shape. Has Holley street dominator manifold (single plane ) and Mallory unilite distributor. I measured the cam's lobe lift at the pushrod and came up with .248'' that would equate to stock 2V lift specs, and who knows , may also have retarded cam timing. 18'' of engine vacuum at 16 degrees of initial would substantiate my 2V cam conclusion. been looking at Sealed power CS650 and some kind of substitute for the D1ZZ-6250BX. Found Lunati-10321001 at Summit racing but I am not sure if that is a direct replacement. anyone care to make any suggestions based on my limited specs. ? Boilermaster
  9. After getting the correct part # from Secluff , I can easily see that it will be much easier to go to roller rockers. Anyone got a suggestion for slotted pedestals , (no machine work) ? Boilermaster
  10. Nope, planning on going with the slotted pedestal, no machining just need 16 of the boss fulcrums for 7/16'' studs. Boilermaster
  11. Looking for a part number for (351 Boss/ HO )rocker arm pivots for 7/16'' studs. OEM Ford and or aftermarket. Previous owner of my 351 C 4V had purchased Crane cams (52655-16) rocker arm conversion kit and Crane cams (99769-16 ) rocker arm adjusting nuts (7/16''-20) need pivots for 7/16'' Remember doing this conversion 20 some years ago and found all the parts then, cannot seem to locate them any more. Boilermaster
  12. Ok, Believe I am looking for a (1310 ) yoke for 28 spline , should measure 4.03'' overall and 3.219'' between the tabs and needs to be for 1-1/16'' caps , anyone got one they want to part with ? Boilermaster
  13. Correct crossmember and shift linkage installed. Thank's Hemikiller. Boilermaster
  14. I am running a 71 FB with C4 trans (unknown ) and 9'' rear diff (no tag) 51'' driveshaft and with the car sitting I only have about 1'' of travel left till the trans yoke hits the tailshaft of the transmission. the rear diff appears to have a long yoke that could be causing my concern. It measures 4-3/8'' from front to rear of seal guard, would this be considered the long flange ? Can this flange be replaced with shorter one with an unknown diff ? What I know about the rear diff. so far. 9'' (cannot put socket on 2 lowest nuts) , standard case (only 1 vertical rib , pinion support (C5AW-4688-A ) securing bolt flanges all machined flat and bolt on snubber. axle ratio believed to be 3.91 (aligned paint stripe thru fill hole and 1 rotation= almost 4 revolutions of the pinion flange. the markings I found on the carrier 9D17, DIF 61 the circular stamping =13616 I do not intend to keep the 3.91 gearset, but this is supposed to be a locking differential, and I would like to rebuild it with perhaps 3.55 gears. any information on what I have would be greatly appreciated. Boilermaster
  15. After further inspection, I may need a different shift linkage for the C4 transmission , cleaned up what I have (D1ZA 7340) and I believe this is for FMX. It would appear that I need D1AZ-7340-CA , can anyone confirm this ? Also do shifters for a C-4 and FMX differ as far as the linkage is concerned , I am good with having the switch in the shifter as opposed to being on the transmission , still looking for a crossmember btw. Boilermaster
  16. Well bkdunha, this thread won't go far , that is EXACTLY what I was looking for. THANK YOU !!! Boilermaster
  17. Hoping someone can offer some pictures of the correct fuel line routing. My lines are intact, but something does not look correct in the rear wheel house opening. specifically where the line goes around the bump stop. is it supposed to go over or under or around. my line looks as if it was hit by something at some time and bent. everything looks good by the leaf spring front opening and all of the fasteners are in place. if I have to replace what has been your experiences with the pre bent lines ? Boilermaster
  18. Thanks MotpoArts, The one in the pic looks much better than what I have. now to find one. Boilermaster
  19. Greetings fellow Mustang owners, Recently started working on my (new to me) 71 fastback. Door sticker says trans code is W which should translate to a c4 unit. It does in fact have a C4 installed, however this is a case filled unit and the shift linkage looks to be from a column shift and the bell housing has threaded holes for cable shift and the bell attaches thru the pump bolts. I am fine with all of this (trans was recently rebuilt by a reputable builder) MY main concern is the FMX crossmember, when I did some checking the trans was cocked to one side. rear mount bolt on the right was resting against the crossmember, used a 1/2'' allen screw in place of the bolt and relieved the crossmember for the time being (no intention of actually driving the car in this condition. Cannot find a part number for the correct crossmember or anyone that advertises one for the 71-73 mustang. other oddities include a fmx shifter (neutral switch in the shifter housing) driveshaft appears to be correct for a C4 Q: did this car come with a C4 and someone change to a FMX and then back again to a C4 ? any information on parts availability would be greatly appreciated. Boilermaster
  20. Donc, am aware of the fmx block but have never actually laid eyes on one. believe they were 1973 only. boilermaster
  21. jeff73mach1, vin code says fmx, the previous owner installed c4. kind of looking @ dollars per lb.ft. torque. been storing up on 400 build ups aware of all the issues I would have to overcome to make decent power. boilermaster
  22. Hello forum members, new to this site but not 1970's fords. worked for dealership for about 12 years as a drivability tech. last 1970's car owned was a 1971 mercury cougar 351c 4v closed and toploader, wish I still owned it. 1978 merc. cougar, transplanted 351 c 4v closed & c4 , good sleeper of sorts. so now I have this 71 fastback, solid body (texas car) and it has been garaged for the last 8 years. had running Cleveland 2v c4 needs interior, also has all the mach 1 cosmetics. the pending question I have is an engine swap. thinking of a 1970 400 & c4 , not a problem for me to make power with this. does anyone make motor mounts for this swap ? realize I will need bellhousing and flexplate ? would also consider stroker kit for the 351 c. I do have access to a fresh 400 for cheap. comments and suggestions ? boilermaster
  • Create New...