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boilermaster

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Posts posted by boilermaster

  1. If anything is wrong with the oil pump on a Cleveland I would say that the bypass circuit in the oil pump is not large enough. Even my old engine and a stock volume pump, I would have almost 80psi at idle when cold (5w30 oil) and when warm it would go down to 40psi at idle. I made the high volume pump mistake years ago and broke several distributor gear roll pins and went through several bronze gears. It's just not needed. If you have loose bearing clearances then that may change things. High pressure pumps were a crutch when not addressing other high rpm oiling issues. High pressure is almost as bad as high volume when to comes to distributor gear wear.

     

    Unless your engine is going to live its entire life at the dragstrip, I highly suggest you research other oiling modifications(restrictors and lifter bushings) and stick with the stock oil pump as it was designed. It is overall a better choice.

     

    Well MeZapU,

    Perhaps that's exactly what I needed to hear as I have fully grooved

    Main Bearings and the restrictors for the cam bearings (new cam bearings) and new lifters that are .001'' Oversize with metering to the pushrods.

    also just picked up an upgraded oil pan.

    Boilermaster

  2. I have replaced many an oil pump, but have never rebuilt one, even with my many years at the Ford Dealership.

    I am wanting to shim the spring on a new standard volume pump and wish to know a few things first : should it matter which side of the cup that a 1/8'' or 3/16'' washer goes ? and once the cotter pin is removed

    how heavy a press is the cup ?.

    Have already specked the rest of my new pump and it checks OK.

    Thinking the cup has to be a press fit so it won't bleed oil past it.

    Would rather remove the cup and inspect and clean it's bore, but also thinking one could also just measure and press the cup in the same amount of the spacer washer.

    Don't want to have to waste the cup in the new pump just to remove it because T don't know where I could get another cup without buying a rebuild kit.

    No guesses please !

    Boilermaster

  3. Thanks for looking, this one is killing me. NOT related to the mustang, but definitely keeping me from working on mine.

     

    2001 Windstar 3.8 with 152K miles on it.

    -Likes to foull plugs annually with significant buildup on the plugs

    -New plugs about 500 mile ago, car was running great.

    -Last Thursday my wife drove it all day long with no problems

    -Thursday evening she backed it out of the garage, turned it off to go in and get her phone.(Go figure)

    -Tried to restart and it would just start and die within 2 seconds

    -I got home a few hours later and it would not fire at all.

     

    I checked for fuel at the shraeder valve on the fuel rail. Only 2 drops came out.

    -Replaced the fuel filter, got a lot more fuel at the fuel rail.

    -Still wouldn't start.

     

    I have checked for spark on the front cylinders with a timing light and the spark looks good.

    -Checked the cam and crank sensors and they were performing fine electrically

    -Popped a valve cover to make sure the valves were moving when the engine cranks

    -Cracked the intake hose and sprayed starting fluid at the MAF. Van will fire and run on the starting fluid.

     

    -Went back to the Schraeder valve and got no fuel out.

     

    Where do I go from here. I am frustrated!

     

    Fuel Pump? Fuel Regulator? another Fuel Filter? A Shotgun?

     

    kcmash

     

    Kcmash,

    Been a long time since I did drivability at the Ford store.

    The fact that this puppy tends to flood out and leave deposits on the spark plugs leads me to the conclusion that the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator may be bad.

    Find the pressure regulator on the fuel rail and remove the vacuum line (if it has one) and cycle the ignition and see if you get fuel out of the vacuum nipple. (carefull here it could really spray out of there)

    If you turn the ignition on and check for pressure at the Schrader valve with a bad regulator, the pressure will have been all bled off by the time you get to the valve , cause the fuel pump is going to shut down till you get a crank signal.

    the flooding/build up on the spark plugs could possibly have been from a leaking regulator all along.

    Wife ever complain of smelling gas ?

    What does the oil smell like ? has it ever been overfull ?

    Boilermaster

  4. Finally received the cam bearings and went at installing them this evening.

    Decided to use Sealed Power bearings, per recommendation of my engine builder buddy.

    I had previously tapped cam bearing oil feeds 2-5 for the Moroso restrictors but not installed yet.

    marked each bearing with a sharpie and another on the block for alignment.

    Measured the oil hole in the bearings and modified a 1/4'' roll pin driver so I would know exactly how far to drive each bearing.

    got # 5 installed to depth, checked for proper depth, installed #4 checked for depth and then did what my engine builder recommended, I installed the cam (used masking tape on each lobe for no scratches) and then I checked for tightness by rotating the cam.

    Installed # 3 bearing and again installed camshaft.

    Now I started working from the back of the block driving bearings toward the front.

    When I was about 1/8'' from where I wanted the # 1 bearing I started

    measuring clearance to the front of the block (just to get a good idea

    of how much I was moving the bearing with each tap of the hammer blow)

    Really took a long time to get to .005'' to the face of the thrust plate

    but the end result was way good, I can easily rotate the camshaft with just thumb and index finger.

    Will re-clean block again tomorrow and begin re-assembly.

    Thinking of buying a blueprinted stock oil pump, but for $ 120.00 I may just get stock pump and check the tolerances myself.

    Oh well tomorrow is another day.

    Boilermaster

  5. Pick a day when you are calm and patient, and no beer before the installation.

     

    Where's the challenge in that?

     

    Fellas

    There are no calm patient days these days.

    Working in the garage IS what makes me calm and patient.

    Will be picking up cam bearing tools tomorrow afternoon , probably only get the bearings pulled and the oil passages and block internals cleaned out.

    Should have bearings Tuesday, late afternoon.

    boilermaster

  6. c9zx,

    After looking in my 1972 vol.2 ford service manual, I happen to see a fatal flaw in the MoCo's tooling (T65L-6250-A ) cam bearing puller/installer.

    looking at the illustration, there is no means to hold the tooling square to the block while pulling, One would think there would be a centering cone. there is not.

    A friend has a Lisle installer that uses an expandable collet and a centering cone and one drives the bearings in and out with a dead blow hammer.

    only problem with that is how to be super precise in getting the depth correct.

    I may use a combination of both tools to get what I want.

    use the driver to get square and close and the puller for precise depth.

    or find or make a centering cone for the ford tool.

    Hope I am not over thinking this but really want to get ir right the first time.

    Boilermaster


    .

    if you build the engine, i would install moroso cam bearing oil restrictors or F26 bearings.

     

    barnett468,

    Have used the moroso restrictors in the past, and they are on my shopping list.

    Boilermaster

  7. Well c9zx,

    You are indeed correct.

    Front cam bearing is no where close to being in there square to it's

    bore.

    way closer at the bottom than at the top, thus all the wear at 6 O clock.

    When I compared the top to bottom there was easily .020'' difference and even at the bottom, the bearing is nowhere close to the .003'' to .005'' spec.

    My best guess is that all of the cam bearings were pulled in place from the front of the engine and therefore would have a difficult time with the tooling and trying to keep it square with so much tool hanging out the front.

    Got the crankshaft out and the bearings look good (fully grooved mains) @ .010'' and rods the same.

    Looks like the cylinder bore is +.020'' and deck clearance at TDC= .023''

    Might as well measure cylinder head chamber volume tomorrow so I can get a more accurate compression ratio calculation.

    Lots and lots of cleaning today mostly on the outside of the block and cleaning gasket surfaces and chasing threads.

    don't see any sense in cleaning the block internals until I remove the cam bearings , will be looking for some cleaning brushes tomorrow as well.

    That's all for today Boilermaster

  8. Thomas 1984,

    Kind of reminds me of the old days when I was working at the ford dealership.

    Some older couple came in and decided to trade in their 1971 LTD cause it smoked a lot , they only used the car to travel from Montana to Michigan where they would vacation.

    Well I got that car for $100 back in about 1990 , put a transmission vacuum valve in the ole girl and smoke be gone.

    429 2V and points.

    found a 600 holley and a motocraft duraspark that I recurved, man that old car flew.

    All I had to do to the kickdown was put a holley extender bracket on there and good to go.

    If I had that combo today, you can bet that the drivetrain would be in my mustang.

    Boilermaster

  9. Well,

    I decided to pull the cam and see what I could see.

    Dis assembly went well, intake valley nice and clean, pulled the timing cover and saw a double roller timing set with very little play and that's where it went south, when I removed the thrust plate I could see babbet, cam came out with no struggle, but the front cam bearing is wiped out, cannot see if any others are bad, guess she is coming out.

    in my disgust, I removed the cylinder heads and have just the short block sitting there.

    On the plus side, the combustion chambers seem happy and am looking at flat top pistons.

    will measure the deck clearance tomorrow.

    as I lowered the headers out from under the car I also noticed 2V headers on a 4V engine NOT GOOD.

    Guess for now a teardown inspection is in order (concerned about main and rod bearings and oil pump.

    SOOO why failed cam bearing (s) ?

    I am thinking either poor remanufacture (perhaps did not lap in cam bearings)?

    I was under the assumption that once a block was (seasoned) that

    if the cam bearings were lapped in that one should be golden , and the block should not shift further ?

    Going to see if the dealership I used to work for still has the cam bearing remover/installer and try to decide what type of cam bearings

    I should install.

    Will also take a further look at oiling system modifications seeing the crankshaft will be out soon.

    Going to have to make a NEW parts list.

    Anyone want to take a gander of why cam bearings failed ?

    Boilermaster

    My money is on incorrect installation (cocked in the bore). There is a discussion in the ford shop manual concerning the installation of the front cam bearing. Chuck

     

    Well, Basstrix and C9TZ,

    Called and talked to my machinist buddy this A.M. and he did give me some useful information as well as what you guys offer.

    He likes to install the bearings dry from the rear to front and once the rear bearing is in place, gently install the cam with the remaining bearings still out and see if the camshaft is centered well with respects to how it looks at the front bearings bore.

    if all looks good install the second bearing and turn by hand with cam gear attached, if all is good, proceed to the next, and so on it goes.

    He states that this way one can at least tell at what location lies.

    I do have a 1971 official ford shop manual.

    I see that some bearings just have the oil hole and others have an elongated slot.

    Saw some discussion on the net as to what the preferred clocking position should be with the slotted ones.

    Will definitely pay particular attention to that installed depth of the front.

    Buddy also states , remove crankshaft and reinstall main caps and torque to specs before removing or installing bearings.

    Oh well, gotta finish removing engine today and get it on the engine stand.

    this should also allow for a proper engine bay detailing while the engine is out.

    Boilermaster

  10. Well,

    I decided to pull the cam and see what I could see.

    Dis assembly went well, intake valley nice and clean, pulled the timing cover and saw a double roller timing set with very little play and that's where it went south, when I removed the thrust plate I could see babbet, cam came out with no struggle, but the front cam bearing is wiped out, cannot see if any others are bad, guess she is coming out.

    in my disgust, I removed the cylinder heads and have just the short block sitting there.

    On the plus side, the combustion chambers seem happy and am looking at flat top pistons.

    will measure the deck clearance tomorrow.

    as I lowered the headers out from under the car I also noticed 2V headers on a 4V engine NOT GOOD.

    Guess for now a teardown inspection is in order (concerned about main and rod bearings and oil pump.

    SOOO why failed cam bearing (s) ?

    I am thinking either poor remanufacture (perhaps did not lap in cam bearings)?

    I was under the assumption that once a block was (seasoned) that

    if the cam bearings were lapped in that one should be golden , and the block should not shift further ?

    Going to see if the dealership I used to work for still has the cam bearing remover/installer and try to decide what type of cam bearings

    I should install.

    Will also take a further look at oiling system modifications seeing the crankshaft will be out soon.

    Going to have to make a NEW parts list.

    Anyone want to take a gander of why cam bearings failed ?

    Boilermaster

  11. I agree with the others, your compression numbers are likely too high for stock open chambers. You may have either CC heads or domed pistons from the previous rebuild. Also, seems a little odd that a single plane manifold would be placed on an engine with a mild cam. I agree with your comment about the 3.91 gears with a non-overdrive transmission. I have 3.73 and while fun around town or on windy roads it's not great on the open highway. 3.50 sounds like a good compromise.

     

    I don't believe you'll be able to get a look at your pistons through the intake runners and past the valves. An inspection camera is probably the best way. Harbor Freight has them fairly reasonable. I have one of these and it works pretty well, better than I expected:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-61839.html

     

    When you get a look at your casting numbers take a look here:

    http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-casting-numbers-and-engine-codes

    If yours isn't listed or you see a discrepancy please let me know.

     

    You can also play around with compression numbers in the spreadsheet at:

    http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-engine-and-compression-calculations

    Get a rough idea of what your compression ratio is:

    http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-compression-altitude-calculations

     

    Don C,

    got off my butt and removed intake, took more time to clean off the grit around the ports and vacuum it up than it did to actually remove the intake itself.

    The casting numbers D1ZE- DA with a born on date of 2E25 should make them open chamber.

    suspecting now some block clean up and or head clean up.

    Who knows what pistons are being used ?

    Good thing is CLEAN but with that Holley street dominator, what a port mismatch , I believe it when they state that this manifolds ports are smaller than 2V.

    That manifold will be on the must sell list.

    Machine work and stock length pushrods may explain why there was so much lifter preload. (averaged 1-3/4 turns.

    Now that I have it this far, might as well pull the front cover and radiator, will be time to order up parts on Monday.

    Boilermaster

  12. 4v heads with a 4* don't necessarily mean an open chamber head. The only way to know for sure is to either pull the intake and use a mirror to check the casting number or pull the heads. I suppose a 3rd way would be to CC the cylinder at BDC and TDC but that's getting a little elaborate. D1AE-GA heads are 4v closed chamber with the dot.

     

    The compression numbers you're reporting are fairly high for an open chamber/stock piston setup. I am thinking it's more likely you have close chamber heads.

     

    As far as cam grind goes, you really want to know what you have for heads (compression) and then read this article paying particular attention to dynamic compression: http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/319104265

     

    There's a chart which lists the static CR vs the dynamic CR vs Intake valve timing (valve closing). Select this aspect of your cam based on this chart and your engine's static compression ratio.

     

    Also, the Wallace Racing calculators are handy for obtaining some of the numbers you may want to compare when selecting your cam: http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

     

    The above assumes you want to run on pump gas and avoid detonation.

     

    Basstrix,

    Was thinking those numbers were a little on the high side as well,

    Snap-on comp tester, known good numbers.

    I am keeping in these things: factory rebuild will almost always have the deck and cylinder heads trued, what pistons were used and is the camshaft in there now contributing to increased cranking compression.

    Since intake manifold will come off for cam change, I will get a chance

    to get a look at the casting numbers on the heads.

    Was also going to replace valve seals while checking valve springs.

    wonder if one could get a good enough look at the combustion chamber thru an intake port with a valve open (with proper precautions) to determine piston usage and open or closed chamber, just a thought.

    Barnett468,

    3L91 gears, a little steep for my taste, possibly changing to 3L50, supposedly professionally rebuilt C4 transmission, 2800 rpm converter, magnum 500 14'' wheels will be needing new tires.

    I do not want this to be a drag car, but have at least be at the power level of my previous 4V engines I have built

    KT69, been on the Pantera website quite a bit for reference, that is where I came up with my part numbers, wish I would have been a good note taker in my younger days.

    For now, I am leaning towards a copy of the D1ZZ-6250-BX if I find closed chambers and copy of D1ZZ-6250-A or B if I find open chambers.

    Looks as I will have to determine for myself if I get a copy of the CJ camshaft , if it is early or late valve timing as I cannot get verification

    from SEALED POWER (CS650) , HOWARDS CAMS (237211-15) or LUNATI (10321004) of their valve timing events.

    any additional info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Boilermaster


    Also,

    I am seeing that Comp Cams makes a flat tappet hydraulic lifter with a diameter listed at .875'' as opposed to the advertised OEM diameter of .874''.

    My 1972 shop manual lists standard diameter as 0.8740''- 0.8745'' with a clearance to tappet bore of 0.0007'' to 0.0027'' and a wear limit of 0.005''.

    Thinking of the additional .001'' tappet diameter as (oil control loss prevention ) as well as these lifters have a patented metered oil orifice to the pushrod and rocker.

    looking at comp cams #832-16 on Summit racing site.

    anyone ever use these and care to share results ?

    Boilermaster

  13. I thought you only need adjustable rockers for solid lifters.

     

    That's correct because there isn't any preload that you can do with solid lifters so you need to use a feeler gauge to set the clearance between the rocker arm and valve tip. For hydraulic lifters and the stud mounted rockers you normally turn the nut from 1/4 to 3/4 additional turns after the play is removed from the pushrod. This compresses the hydraulic lifter slightly and uses the oil pressure to take up any clearances so that you don't get the chatter.


     

    No, I have the recommended Ford Hydraulic units.

     

    Not sure if I have the wrong Polylocks, or what. Looks like from the posts here I probably out to take 3 steps back and recalcualte the valve train geometry. Considering how long a pushrod I am calculating I feel pretty lost right now! Summit racing will sell me long pushrods, but i don't think they will last based on what everyone is saying.

     

    I need to read the articles that were posted here today before spending money.

     

    This is what I would do:

    **Back off all the nuts and allow the lifters to pump back up.

    **Rotate the motor to TDC for CYL 1 on compression stroke.

    **Remove the rocker arms and clean any oil from them and the valve stem tip for cyl #1.

    **Get a black sharpie and blacken the whole tip of the valve stems. This is normally done for roller tip rockers but I believe the same principle should apply here.

    **Use the 8.40 pushrods (stock) and put the two rocker arms back on and tighten the nut until all play both up and down and twisting is just removed from the pushrod. Don't over tighten, you just want the play out.

    **Then turn each nut an additional 5/8 of a turn. This preloads the lifter.

    **Rotate the motor for 2 compression cycles for #1 cyl, 4 complete turns of the damper.

    **Remove the rocker arms

    **Look at the rub pattern of the valve stem tip, it should be centered on the stem. The black sharpie mark will be worn off where the rocker arm contacts the valve stem. You want to see equal wear on both sides of the centerline.

     

    Take pics of the wear pattern and post. If the wear is off center it will indicate that a longer or shorter length is required depending on whether the wear is more towards the exhaust or intake manifold.

     

    Well, I may have found the solution. I had 2 sets of Polylocks around for some reason. One set has a "skirt" to them that pushed the roller fulcrum down farther on the stud without bottoming out on threads.

     

    I set the pushrod length checker to approximately 8.40 inches and tightened the lash out of the rocker. The picture of the assembly shows the rocker position for a closed valve and the 8.4 pushrod length. I have not turned to engine over to check the wear pattern on the valve head, but it looks like these Polylocks will allow me to properly adjust lash with an 8.4 or 8.5 pushrod length.

     

    Let me know if you see any areas of concerns in the pictures. I think I am good with a 8.4 length on this setup. My only fear now is if the Boss Valve covers will clear those polylocks.

     

    Don, good question above. Am I the only one trying to use adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters?

     

    Per the post from John, this is a fresh engine that has not been fired, so nothing has been run and nothing is pumped with oil. I actually bought the setup from another owner locally with all the stuff except for the pushrods, I assembled the engine several years ago, and worked to get the rest of the car together.

     

    Would really want to know who makes those funky rockers and rollers.

    do you know the manufacturer and part numbers ?

    Boilermaster

  14. Looking for some camshaft suggestions for my 351 C4v.

    Engine is a factory rebuild of some sort, compression = 155-160 across the board and leakdown is in the 10 % range

    4v heads with dot (assuming open chamber ) by 2E25 date code , but not 100% sure.

    750 Holley vac.secondary's and unknown headers but in very good shape.

    Has Holley street dominator manifold (single plane ) and Mallory unilite distributor.

    I measured the cam's lobe lift at the pushrod and came up with .248''

    that would equate to stock 2V lift specs, and who knows , may also have retarded cam timing.

    18'' of engine vacuum at 16 degrees of initial would substantiate my 2V cam conclusion.

    been looking at Sealed power CS650 and some kind of substitute for the D1ZZ-6250BX.

    Found Lunati-10321001 at Summit racing but I am not sure if that is a direct replacement.

    anyone care to make any suggestions based on my limited specs. ?

    Boilermaster

  15. There is mob here in Australia that make the Trans-Am type, with the roller bearings, but they're not exactly cheap. Also there is guy over here with NOS Boss valve train parts, but they are crazy money on all the pieces and would be a hell of a lot cheaper to run a set of roller rockers unless somebody needed them for a genuine Boss or Falcon GT HO resto.

    If need be, I've seen these guys selling these parts on Australian eBay and Gumtree Australia if you want to look for them, but as I said earlier, the prices are quite scary though.

     

    After getting the correct part # from Secluff , I can easily see that it will be much easier to go to roller rockers.

    Anyone got a suggestion for slotted pedestals , (no machine work) ?

    Boilermaster

  16. Looking for a part number for (351 Boss/ HO )rocker arm pivots for 7/16'' studs.

    OEM Ford and or aftermarket.

    Previous owner of my 351 C 4V had purchased Crane cams (52655-16)

    rocker arm conversion kit and Crane cams (99769-16 ) rocker arm adjusting nuts (7/16''-20) need pivots for 7/16''

    Remember doing this conversion 20 some years ago and found all the parts then, cannot seem to locate them any more.

    Boilermaster

  17. I am running a 71 FB with C4 trans (unknown ) and 9'' rear diff (no tag) 51'' driveshaft and with the car sitting I only have about 1'' of travel left till the trans yoke hits the tailshaft of the transmission.

    the rear diff appears to have a long yoke that could be causing my concern.

    It measures 4-3/8'' from front to rear of seal guard, would this be considered the long flange ?

    Can this flange be replaced with shorter one with an unknown diff ?

    What I know about the rear diff. so far.

    9'' (cannot put socket on 2 lowest nuts) , standard case (only 1 vertical rib , pinion support (C5AW-4688-A ) securing bolt flanges all machined flat and bolt on snubber.

    axle ratio believed to be 3.91 (aligned paint stripe thru fill hole and 1 rotation= almost 4 revolutions of the pinion flange.

    the markings I found on the carrier 9D17, DIF 61 the circular stamping =13616

    I do not intend to keep the 3.91 gearset, but this is supposed to be a locking differential, and I would like to rebuild it with perhaps 3.55 gears.

    any information on what I have would be greatly appreciated.

    Boilermaster

  18. After further inspection, I may need a different shift linkage for the C4 transmission , cleaned up what I have (D1ZA 7340) and I believe this is for FMX.

    It would appear that I need D1AZ-7340-CA , can anyone confirm this ?

    Also do shifters for a C-4 and FMX differ as far as the linkage is concerned , I am good with having the switch in the shifter as opposed to being on the transmission , still looking for a crossmember btw.

    Boilermaster

  19. Hoping someone can offer some pictures of the correct fuel line routing.

    My lines are intact, but something does not look correct in the rear wheel house opening.

    specifically where the line goes around the bump stop.

    is it supposed to go over or under or around.

    my line looks as if it was hit by something at some time and bent.

    everything looks good by the leaf spring front opening and all of the fasteners are in place.

    if I have to replace what has been your experiences with the pre bent lines ?

    Boilermaster

  20. Greetings fellow Mustang owners,

    Recently started working on my (new to me) 71 fastback.

    Door sticker says trans code is W which should translate to a c4 unit.

    It does in fact have a C4 installed, however this is a case filled unit

    and the shift linkage looks to be from a column shift and the bell housing has threaded holes for cable shift and the bell attaches thru the pump bolts.

    I am fine with all of this (trans was recently rebuilt by a reputable builder)

    MY main concern is the FMX crossmember, when I did some checking the trans was cocked to one side. rear mount bolt on the right was resting against the crossmember, used a 1/2'' allen screw in place of the bolt and relieved the crossmember for the time being (no intention of actually driving the car in this condition.

    Cannot find a part number for the correct crossmember or anyone that advertises one for the 71-73 mustang.

    other oddities include a fmx shifter (neutral switch in the shifter housing)

    driveshaft appears to be correct for a C4

    Q: did this car come with a C4 and someone change to a FMX and then back again to a C4 ?

    any information on parts availability would be greatly appreciated.

    Boilermaster

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