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Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. Bigfoot72, For anyone to be able to help you, we are going to need to know these specifics. 1 what pump slot is your accelerator pump in ? 2 what is your base timing 3 what is your idle speed (with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) 4 how many (distributor degrees) is your mechanical advance your distributor should have 2 slots 180 degrees and only one of these two slots will be occupied (might say 10L or 13L. you can also tell how much mechanical advance you have by subtracting your TOTAL timing (where it quits advancing with timing light and subtracting that from your base timing (divided by 2)
  2. OK, So only the 10 spline transmission offers the Ford (wide pattern) which I am guessing is 8-1/2'' x 6-1/4'' with 4-13/16'' opening All the 26 spline transmissions are (TKO) bolt pattern. Both 501-18085 (26 spline) and 501-18086 (10 spline) offer a shortened input shaft (guessing that is special order ? and would have to wait for it to be manufactured. The bellhousing adapter does (fix) the input shaft length issue, but pretty sure it adds driveshaft length issue. Would have to see what wait time would be for shortened input vs perhaps buying or shortening my driveshaft, then there's the crossmember issue. 501-18085 (26 spline) is on backorder while 501-18086 has limited stock, so it looks like it is hurry up and wait or hurry up and spend. Boilermaster P.S. I do have somewhat sticky tires 275/50r15 Nitto drag radials, I don't drag race a lot, but I like spirited driving. Boilermaster
  3. Hemikiller, I would be elated if I only had to get just a 26 spline clutch disc. I did email MD and asked if the input shaft could be shortened of if I would have to purchase an extra and shorten it myself. I will have to research and see if all the mounting bolt patterns for the 26 spline units are the same as toploader. Also just a guess, but with no quicktime bell or adapter plate, would the TKX transmission crossmember be rendered useless ? Not that it would be difficult to build one. Would be very nice to buy this transmission for $ 2795 without not a lot of extra parts and have it look like it belongs in the car. Will do my research and see what I can come up with, BTY, if you have the toploader bolt pattern specs handy you could post them. Boilermaster
  4. Don, I spelled out to Modern Driveline word for word exactly what I had and what I wanted. Perhaps I got the same guy that works from home for Comp Cams.
  5. OK, Truth be known, I have been looking for a 5 speed manual for quite sometime, Decide to email Modern Driveline and ask for a quote. I tell them what I have (71 stang, 408 C , zero balance flywheel @ 164 tooth count and using OEM aluminum bell with 11'' long clutch which is already dialed in to near perfect runout. I assumed they would offer me a 10 spline transmission pn # MD- 501-18086, Nope they want to sell me a 26 spline ( pn 501-17765 along with a quicktime bell @ $777.00 , a clutch cable kit for $249.00, shift lever for$ 136.00 and all the other goodies for a total of $4,855 when their transmission sells for only $2,799.00. On top of that, I would still have to switch to a 26 spline clutch disc and still get a shortened driveshaft. So my options are, go with the 10 spline transmission and a bellhousing adapter and non stock release arm and or hydraulic release bearing set up and still a custom driveshaft ? How about a input shaft that requires no special bellhousing, no adapter plate and be able to use the OEM driveshaft ? Is it just me, or is Tremec going about this all wrong ? Boilermaster
  6. 73inNH. Bentworker makes a good point. if you adjusted your idle mixture with the pcv disconnected and plugged and then added it to the mix you are going to be leaner than you were before, also what pcv valve are you using ? different pcv valves have different metering values. I too like the ME wagner adjustable pcv valve, also 650 rpm idle speed seems a tad low (by todays standards) unless you have a totally stock engine and I have no clue how the transfer slots work on your particular carb.
  7. 73in N. I am not a Edelbrock/Carter guru by any means, strictly Holley spoken here, however, I see you have your accelerator pump in the richest position and Clevelands Do like quite a bit of accelerator pump right now. That being said, with the engine fully warmed and choke fully opened and at idle position (engine off to save eyebrows) Have you checked to see if your pump nozzles are supplying fuel the very instant the throttle blades are moved off the idle position ? Sounds very trivial, but this needs to happen to keep from a lean tip in regardless of how much total pump shot volume you might have. You could even have a lean tip in with too much pump shot if your pump linkage is not right. costs you zero money and very little time to check this (unless you go the scorched eyebrows route) Boilermaster
  8. 73inNH, did you adjust timing since the carb and manifold swap if not leave the timing alone. suggest you get some carb spray and test for leaks and if none are found bolt your old carb back on (if possible) and see if the issue is gone, if it goes away, then you know you have a carb and (only a carb issue).
  9. Dude, both the tiny exhaust leak and motor mount sound like possibilities. Any chance you could secure your phone in the engine bay to take a recording while letting the clutch out while in gear and listen to your recording and compare to the previous ?? Safety first !!!
  10. 73inNH, Did you have this low speed issue before the carb swap, or did this issue pop up because of the carb swap ?
  11. Dude, After listening to your videos, I am convinced your noise is at camshaft speed or 1/2 of crank speed. So you checked the distributor cap, but what about the advance weights or a screw coming loose from inside the distributor ? The other would be the fuel pump eccentric and or cam gear retainer bolt has come loose. You have a fuel pump block off plate, I suggest you remove it and take a peek inside, even if it means doing so with a probe type camera. If by eye you MAY be able to see in there with a pen light, might want to remove your ps pump, and the oil filter may still be in the way. if you get a peek, I suggest you NOT pry against the cam gear, as you could lose it all together if the cam bolt is backed out. If the cam bolt has backed out, the fuel pump eccentric WILL also be loose, that is where you need to look, fuel pump gasket is pretty cheap to replace. Boilermaster
  12. Don C, Funny thing on valve seals, I have been working on cars for 40 plus years and the only time I ever saw anyone drop a valve was a young guy using an air hold set and his quick connect failed. I have a air hold set as well as a leakdown tool but never use them for valve seals, would rather have the piston at TDC of the cylinder than have air pressure drive the piston to the bottom of the bore. Boilermaster
  13. Animal Lawyer, First things first, what bellhousing and flywheel are you going to be using (so we know clutch diameter.
  14. Millertime. looks like you have the Holley street dominator intake manifold with the smaller than 2Vintake ports. please advise us if you have any oil fouled spark plugs, just because the carb spray did not make an increase in idle speed does not mean it is not leaking (pulling in oil from the underside of the intake) Do you have 2v or 4v heads ? , if you have 4Vheads the port mismatch is huge. Looks like you have a throttle kicker solenoid on that carb also called an anti-diesel solenoid, you should be adjusting the idle (curb idle) there and there will be a smaller screw on the carb base plate to get the idle lower so it won't after run, if you leave it @ 1000 rpms it most likely will after run. Please do make sure you have the choke and fast idle screw fully sorted before setting idle speed's. Boilermaster
  15. Right on Bentworker, I have one in my toolbox with alligator clips for the wiring leads and a bunch of weld in bungs and plugs. this helps greatly when trying to tune someone else's car. The only issue I have is people want to see a specific A/F number at all times and carbs don't generally lend themselves into doing that.
  16. sorry Bentworker, Forgot which of the blocky you have in there now. I have always used primary jet for cruise A/F and power valve restriction for jetting when the power valve is open. you may want to get jetting a little more dialed in before swapping air bleeds.
  17. Bentworker, I would want to where my secondary throttle blades are at when you get that fat 70 mph highway cruise. And if my power valve is open or closed at 70 mph cruise.. if your power valve is still closed and secondarys are still closed then smaller primary jet, if power valve is open then reduce power valve restriction . wot afr should be adjusted with secondary jetting only, but bear in mind that pvcr reduction or primary jetting will have an impact at WOT.
  18. is the ashtray in the ashtray holder ? that is what keeps pressure on the lid to keep it closed.
  19. Dude, I am using the same water pump as you are, however I am using a WCCC #53234 restrictor plate that allows me to use a WINDSOR type thermostat ( 195degree) the WCCC #53234 restrictor uses a (tiny bleed hole) that is recessed a little bit that allows the use of the windsor tstat. I have never cared for the Cleveland style bypass and the crappy way it bypasses. (guess I pulled out too many fully opened cleveland thermostats that one could plainly see that the bypass cup would be off centered when fully opened. Also have run into the 160 degree thermostat issues and EFI, they just plain DONT like a 160 degree thermostat and will not learn well when they are constantly going back and forth between OPEN and CLOSED loop because the learn threshold is generally 165 degrees F. your engine will also last a lot longer with a 190 or 195 degree stat. I am using a 50 year old original 429 rad and shroud and a mechanical gauge and have ZERO cooling issues after using the smaller pulley and Windsor style restrictor and thermostat. Boliermaster
  20. Dude, what water pump pulley are you using ? C90Z- 8509- B is listed @ 6-61/64'' and is generally used on non ac cars. C90Z-8509- C is listed as 5-15/16'' and is used on ac cars, it will speed up your water pump. I was having the same issue as you described and swapping pulleys worked for me, at least throw a tape across your pulley to determine which one you have, if you do a swap, don't forget you will need a shorter belt. Boilermaster
  21. Grego, Don C brings up a very valid point (as always). Since this is a NEW build how we know that your issue is not a base engine issue such as valve timing , lifter preload or distributor phasing ? Holley does state that one should get a good base tune before letting the sniper control timing. do you per chance have a known good carb, mechanical distributor and fuel pressure regulator ? I know it is a stretch, but you could be looking at a very long road without knowing how your base engine stacks up, and if you have to bring it to a professional tuner, that can be pretty costly as well. a couple things to look at would be map readings at hot idle (KPA) and convert that over to inches of vacuum and see if that corresponds to your cam card specs, cranking compression ( actual ) might be useful. Boilermaster
  22. Grego & 73'mach1, closing throttle blades will raise iac numbers NOT lower them. After getting the iac where you want it and cycling the key to re zero tps one needs to make sure iac is repeatable, ask me how I know. Boilermaster
  23. GREGO, iac around 20 warming up is meaningless, you need to know what it is fully warmed up in closed loop. AFR readings the same 12.5 would be not a good situation at idle or cruise, go back on in the wizard and see what your targets are. 12.5 is great for WOT but poor choices anywhere else. Boilermaster
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