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boilermaster

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Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. Bentworker, 3000 to 3400 all in is a pretty good standard and I would go with the bushing that allows the least mechanical (9 degrees dist. 18 @ crank. this will allow you some leeway to adjust base timing without overshooting total timing. You may be able to tolerate more total timing with the aluminum heads, but that is by NO means where your best power has to be. You may find best power @ less than the typical non stroker is. Boilermaster
  2. 73 mach1, lots of room for speculation here, for me its all about whos dyno, who is operating the dyno and how much loss from engine to tires. I have a similar 408 with very similar camshaft but closed chambers and 10.6 static and 8.1 dynamic. on software 1 am anywhere from 500 to 520 hp. at the crank, its all in the translation. where did you have emi/rfi on your sniper?, I have installed a few of these units on gm cars and have not encountered any of this as of yet, i did install the secret emi tape and redundant grounds before installs and thats what I am crediting my sucess to.
  3. 164 runner, I think you want C9OE 8509 F water pump pulley. Boilermaster
  4. 164 runner, you did not state if you have an ac car or not. ac cars and non ac cars use different diameter water pump pulleys and the ac pulley is smaller and turns faster. I had this same issue with my 408 C (429 radiator and shroud) went to the local pick and pull and got a pulley for an ac car, (as i remember it was a 71 LTD w 400 engine and problem solved. also using clutched fan. you would also have to install shorter belt with the smaller pulley. Boilermaster
  5. 7173vert, once I get to zero lash (with positive stop) I will put my ratchet handle to a clock position and then count how far it goes before the bolt starts reaching torque, (that will tell you how much preload you actually have. If over 1 full turn, will usually add one of the little Crane rocker shims, thinner of the two that usually come in a standard pack. Boilermaster
  6. KCmash, Sorry, I have been gone for quite some time. Just a little food for thought; before you had the primaries drilled , did you first try opening the secondary butterflys to achieve a proper idle ? That seems to be the standard procedure, perhaps the primaries are now at full bind CLOSED because of the secondarys being opened from a previous setting ? Boilermaster
  7. Cribbs 74, If you choose to install a T5, or any Tremec for that matter, make sure you dial indicate the the centerline of the crankshaft to the bell housing opening. I BELIEVE the spec is 0.005'' because the Tremecs use a tapered mainshaft front bearing. Clean both the engine to bell flange and bell housing flange, you need do do both radial and axial runout (do radial first), i used shim stock between the engine block and bell housing to dial it in, and you MAY need offset dowel pins to get the AXIAL runout within specifications. If you are using a adapter plate, take your readings off of the adapter plate, not the bell opening. If you get this wrong, plan on replacing your front mainshaft bearing. Boilermaster
  8. 73'Mach 1, Tnfastbk and c9zx offer sound advise, I would only add that Holley states that one should start their tune with the spark advance feature turned off and work off of your existing distributor advance curves. also get your IAC really dialed in , If you don't have air conditioning shut the ac kick feature OFF. it will help you dial in the IAC easier.- when you have your air/fuel FULLY dialed in and your learn tables are are almost ZERO then would be the time to let the sniper handle your ignition advance. I have installed a few of these systems on friends cars and found that there are 3 different levels of tuning, if you allow the system to only self learn, you will probably be disappointed. Don't tune by numbers, tune by what YOUR engine likes and what it does NOT like. Boilermaster
  9. Jackf, Glad you got your problem sorted, a couple of things to consider when dealing with drum brakes and backing plates and wheel bearings. Don't just take it for granted that the backing plates are true to the axle flange/ wheel hub. Backing plates can and will bend and the same holds with the brake shoes themselves. When doing a drum brake job, take the time to lay the shoes on a known flat surface and make sure all 3 contact pads line up on where they are going to rest on the backing plate. do NOT ask why I know this! . also I like to use a simple sliding square from the axle to the contact pads of the backing plate to assure that all 6 are of equal distance to the flat on the axle flange. Also bear in mind when adjusting drum brakes on a lift that there is no load on the wheel bearings, and any wheel bearing play WILL make your brake shoe to drum clearance tighter with the car weight on it. this is much more of a problem where the axle is actually the inner race I.E. chev dodge where the rear whwwl bearing presses into the housing and not on the axle. Boilermaster
  10. SteveO-71, If you are just going to compare cylinders to cylinders, then Not opening the carb to wide open would be ok. I you are looking for real world numbers then the throttle needs wide open. With the throttle closed, your numbers WILL be lower. NO AIR IN = NO AIR TO COMPRESS for a 9.5 compression ratio 125 psi is ideal 10.0 = 132psi 10.5 = 139psi 11.0 = 147psi Boilermaster
  11. Bruce180vf, How did you bleed the clutch master ? not likely that you have air trapped in the release bearing assy, but quite likely you may have air trapped in the master. was the car on a lift when you installed and bled the master or on jack stands ? If so you might want to check the angle of the masters bore if it was not level the air may have no place to exit. 2 different methods of bleeding come to mind here, reverse bleeding at the bleeder screw and a rubber tipped syringe to go over the bleeder (use a little Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder) if that method does not work, I would suggest removing the master with the hydraulic line intact and then try reverse bleeding while manipulating the angle of the master cylinder. These 2 methods have helped me in the past at both the Chevrolet and ford stores. When I would do a S-10 chev. (external slave) I would bleed the entire system before it was ever installed. Always remember to let gravity be your friend when bleeding a hydraulic system. I actually bet my buddy that I could bleed the brake master on his Harley without ever cracking a bleeder, by filling, and moving the bars and angle of the bike, takes a little patience and pumping, but no mess on a nice bike. Oh yea, I won. Boilermaster
  12. Just wondering if anyone is using the PerTronix digital hp ignition box? It appears to have ALL of the features of the MSD boxes plus a 2 stage and 3rd. stage and timing retard just like the OEM duraspark units have. No having to purchase a seperate 2 step and is less expensive than the MSD units. Thoughts and opinions please. Boilermaster
  13. Ballaratcastle, Here is a link to add staggered shocks to your stang, so easy I did it myself. https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/staggered-rear-shocks-for-any-mustang.489854/ Just need some square tube, plate steel and an extra lower shock plate to locate on the square tube and all but eliminates wheel hop. Boilermaster
  14. Jpaz, You must have a great tune, as you have the same primary and secondary jetting as myself lol. Boilermaster
  15. Jedoens, Welcome from Cooks, Mi. USA All of your questions WILL get answered here.
  16. Mustangnj, 4 speed car ? looks like reverse light switch wiring, check if your reverse lights are working. Boilermaster
  17. All good points here fella's, I totally whiffed on the small driveshaft and rear yoke, that WOULD be a deal breaker for me. On the staggered shocks, there is info on the net to do a bolt on upper mount and different lower plate to convert to staggered shocks. I did this mod, very easy, just some square tube and flat stock, used one of the discarded lower plates for the top shock thru hole, Lets see what Ballaratcastle has for shocks, driveshaft and diff flange first. Boilermaster
  18. Ballaratcastle, your speedometer error signals that there is more than tire size at issue here. You had mentioned that you had recently replaced the rear shock absorbers, do you recall if your rear shocks were (staggered) Staggered rear shocks will have 1 shock forward and one aft of the rear axle. The reason that I ask is if you are going to use a LSD locking axle you are going to want staggered rear shocks to prevent wheel hop. The rear tires you currently have are still not going to help too much with traction if going to a locking differential, most will fit a 255/60R15 and still have traction issues. The speedometer error is easily dealt with by replacing the speedometer gear in the transmission, the accuracy will depend on BOTH axle ratio and tire size. As far as the axle ratio, the 351 Q equipped mustangs of the day that had the best suspension could be equipped with a 3.50 rear differential. I am not a convertible expert by any means, but something strikes me as odd about your sway bar attachment plates, why are they there ? weather or not you have staggered rear shocks will tell a lot, pretty sure that the rear sway bar only came with competition suspension. Perhaps a previous owner swapped the complete rear differential and not just the center section ? Boilermaster
  19. From water pump pulley to back of fan is about 1.75” A 2 5/8” spacer May put the clutch fan into the radiator. Klinton 994, a 7/8'' spacer will put your clutch fan in the same place as the standard flex fan that uses the 2-5/8'' spacer. I was NOT suggesting that you use a 2-5/8'' spacer, but trying to get you to compare the length of that 2-5/8'' spacer to the length of your fan clutch. Boilermaster
  20. Klinton 994, It looks like the standard fan spacer measures 2-5/8'' so measure from the water pump pulley to the fan and see if you are close to that measurement. If you come up short, pretty sure you can buy fan spacers of just about any thickness. or hope someone chimes in with an actual measurement from the front of the fan to radiator. I am running pretty much the same setup except 429 3 core radiator and have no issues. Boilermaster
  21. C9zx, True TDC is indeed in question here. My thinking is if I can get Big Red Mach 1 to advance his ignition until it spark knocks and then back off 2 degrees, it could raise his vacuum readings at idle and if his vacuum does indeed increase, that would be a half assed way of confirming that his cam timing is not retarded ? does that make sense to you chuck ? if Big red hit 15hg. valve timing should not be retarded. Boilermaster
  22. C9zx, The nice thing about comp cams is that they list lobe lift @ tdc , so no degree wheel needed if you actually know where true tdc is. Just look up your lobe profile in their master catalog and they give you the spec. from there you can do the math to figure out exactly where you are. I must admit that finding my lobes in the pdf catalog was a pain, but no degree wheel needed, just a dial indicator. So one can actually CHECK cam timing without removing the timing cover, unfortunately changing cam timing is a little more involved. Boilermaster
  23. Jpaz, Funny thing is that I decided to call comp's tech division where they ask for all of your engine specs and then select a bumpstick for you. Guess what they selected for me ? yup you got it. I did not take the bait and gave comp MY specs and had one built for me. This cam is not that far from the 270 but with split lift and duration and a lot less overlap and I make 17hg.@ warm idle. Boilermaster
  24. Good point Don c. on the crankcase vapors. Big Red, I would STILL like to see you bump the timing in 2 degree increments until you get just the hint of spark knock and then back off 2 degrees. That divot on # 1 piston is there for a reason, either valve timing or ignition timing. Boilermaster
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