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Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. 73pony, I got a set of the same 2 years ago for $500, knowing they needed the works, one can easily spend $1000 to get them into good operating condition. Boilermaster
  2. Big red mach 1, I like the MSD plug boots, What I don't care for is routing the plug wires over the rocker covers. I prefer routing the wires around the rocker covers, like the later 351m and 400 did. To me they just look a bit more tidy. I am sure others will not approve, just my taste. Glad to hear big red is running again, still looking for that vacuum number. Boilermaster
  3. bac, just checked my 71 fb/ wo gauges and No it should not. Someone could have re-wired it , OEM chokes rely on the stator wire from the charging system, most aftermarket chokes need to see 12 volts to operate correctly. some aftermarket distributors require 12 volts in the run position, which our cars did not provide because there is a resistor wire to drop the voltage down. You did not state what type of distributor you have, perhaps a previous owner tried by-passing the resistor circuit and picked the wrong point to (tap into for power to the coil). BoilermasterL
  4. Klinton 994, How about the old ford starter repair stud repair ? I see they are available in both fine and coarse thread for about $6.00 ea. I do not know the length of the male end, but surely longer than the standard starter relay lugs. any parts store or tractor parts supply house should have them or easily get one for you. Boilermaster
  5. Big red mach 1, Forgot to state that advancing the distributor one tooth will most likely leave you with a distributor that will not want to fully seat. Fear not, it is just the hex drive of the oil pump not lining up. Just hold slight downward pressure on the distributor while turning the engine by hand and it will seat. Had a dream last night that I told you the wrong direction, been messing with a buddy's BBC just before the stay at home order began. Had to put an advance curve in his new distributor, (he had mechanical locked out) and was using a 427 timing cover on a 454 (timing marks are at a different location and balancers are different) just added him dual quad efi, he called last week after his first road test and was jumping for joy for how good it ran. gotta get that chev stuff off my brain. Boilermaster
  6. Turtle5353, I am still a little sick to my stomach about this whole thing. Glad you were not injured, time to look foreward. Boilermaster
  7. Big red mach 1, Sounds like you are retarded. Let me rephrase that. I think you are 1 tooth slow. Typically, I will set the balancer to the timing mark I want to use and then stab the distributor. If you are 1 tooth slow, carefully lift the distributor until the teeth just disengage, while watching which way the rotor is wanting to turn, then go 1 tooth in the opposite direction. if it fails, you probably are 180 out. Boilermaster
  8. Don C, Lots of variables still on the table here, how well was cam timing dialed in, is Big red's balancer spot on or not. Big red does not have factory carb, surely the holley is going to be richer in the idle circuits. His cam has a 110 degree LSA that will help with vacuum, if it is not advanced 4 degrees. Target idle speed will play a huge role here as well, and lets not forget pcv valve. Boilermaster
  9. 1+ Tony -muscle, You might be on to something there. Notice that the light is always directly on the defect. Why else #1 cylinder ? Boilermaster
  10. Big red mach 1, Sorry man, In the first few photos, that looked really huge, but in the last few , not so bad. Looks like the old nut down the carb trick. What are your plans ?
  11. Big red mach1, A visual of TDC would only serve to get you into the ballpark , the piston stop method will get you a lot closer. The best way is with the head off and a dial indicator. That is why I suggested the spark knock method and then back it off 2 degrees from there. Would only do this after you have dialed in the carb, even then you might have to back it down more as the weather warms up more. if you choose to do this, I suggest you do it with the vacuum advance disconnected (as you don't know how many degrees your vacuum advance provides as of yet. As previously stated you could set your initial timing @14- 16 btdc and set idle mixture and idle speed and hook up vacuum gauge and SEE what 2 more degrees of advance will give you as far as idle vacuum and idle speed. Boilermaster
  12. Sweet, Smoke by 5pm ? We could have a poll as to how much vacuum you will have when tuned. Boilermaster
  13. Hemikiller, it don't get any easier than that. Still trying to wrap my head around why big red would need longer than stock pushrods. The D0AE-N cylinder head did not come with screw in studs, perhaps they were cut too shallow or too deep ? then there is head shaving and gasket thickness and longer than stock valves and sunken valve seats and modified installed height . My experience usually led me to believe aluminum roller rockers, mostly would require a slightly shorter pushrod. But HEY, follow the simple explaination. unfortunately my small brain works differently than that. Boilermaster
  14. Big red mach 1 , you do not need to go to shorter pushrods !! you are perhaps already too short. at zero lash, you can be near the inboard 1/3 of the valve, but your contact pattern should move towards the center of the valve stem until you get to about 1/2 of the lobe lift, then it should start moving back to where it started from. I have been fooled by pictures and camera angles before, but your contact pattern looks to be too far to the intake valley side to me, which means you need LONGER pushrods. Boilermaster I
  15. Big red, 6 wrench flats per 1 revolution of the hex nut. Boilermaster
  16. Big red mach 1, For sure get that fan and fan shroud out of your way. You can put a few short bolts back in the pulley to water pump to keep it in place. I like to start at the rear of either bank and move towards the front while watching the lifters move and adjust1 valve at a time. I am always turning the engine over with a big long ratchet to keep the lifters from bleeding down. (I always start out with all rockers completely loose. if you get to within 1/2 a wrench flat for zero lash,I usually call that good, usually go parallel or perpendicular to the engine block. With fresh lifters, I will pull the distributor to pump up the lifters how much preload depends on the lifter specification (which you probably don't have) 3 wrench flats probably will suffice. Sorry about the wrench flats thing,( Harley guys will understand) there must be at least 1/2 dozen different thread pitches on aftermarket pushrods. Boilermaster
  17. Bout time Big red mach 1, Being housebound is really boring, Expecting a full report on your progress.
  18. I can comment from my own experience on power valves. My engine produces 18" Hg at 800 rpm idle ( 4 speed manual). That indicates the need for a 8.5 P/V, so I installed one and the car ran like crap. So, talking to "my guy" at the speed shop, he suggested that was the wrong move and to go back to the 6.5 P/V, which i did and it ran like a champ thereafter. I think it will actually depend one YOUR engine's needs, so be prepared to experiment. Buy a couple of extra primary bowl gaskets and bolt seals just to be prepared. You probably won't have to pull the carb to change it as long as you have room underneath to pull the bowl bolts. Lots of paper towel to soak up the gas. Stanglover, The higher the P/V the quicker it will open (I know you know this) I like to also look at the P/V restrictor size and see how much fuel it provides via wideband O2 monitor too high a P/V rating and too large of a P/V restriction is going to get ya over rich. The old school rule of thumb is the P/V should give you 10 extra main jet sizes. Boilermaster
  19. Um, ahhh, Perhaps Eddie WAS experiencing 17'' of vacuum @ hot ldle, thus the 8.5'' power valve ? That should be your new target. Boilermaster
  20. Hey folks, need a little help with my 2012 f-150 4x4 3.5 ecoboost abs system. The ole girl is throwing a abs code C-1440 ( bpmv pressure transducer code) Perfectly capable of running the diagnostic pinpoint tests (used to do this for a living) I do not have access th the diagnostic routine or a schematic for the abs system. abs works perfectly fine, abs light on traction control light on and red brake light on. I really don't want to just throw a bpmv at it or even a reconditioned module and find that won't repair the problem. I want to see if the BOO switch is communicating with the module. Does anyone here have access to a schematic and pinpoint tests ? Would just see at my local dealership, but afraid he will ask me to come to work for them again. I am perfectly fine being retired and working on hotrods on my terms, really do not want to wear that uniform again. Boilermaster
  21. 1 PLUS on Jpaz's last post. Don't know how the crane cams rocker arm is configured. I guess there could be a round and flat on the trunnion. meaning they could be installed 180 and therefore cause the nuts to be so backed off. that would also give the impression that the pushrods (look) too long. Boilermaster
  22. Big red mach 1, That looks like geometry 101 to me, Suggest that you start doing some measuring. I would start by checking rocker arm to valve stem contact pattern and see where you sit. check pushrod length and then the length of your rocker nuts. Obviously your rockers are contacting the adjusting nuts when the valves are closing your contact pattern (should) reveal that your pushrods are too long or the rocker studs are wrong. Shorter pushrods will gain you some threads on the rocker nuts (perhaps the rocker nuts are NOT too long) Too long of a pushrod length could also explain the rocker to rocker cover contact. check the part# of those rockers too and see if they are right for your application. Boilermaster
  23. Big red mach 1, 25 lb.ft. is WAY too much 6 lb.ft. sounds much better. If it were mine I would remove the carb and check the base for flatness and perhaps draw file it flat again. also remove the carb studs and check the carb base of intake, (possibly find a raised area at the carb studs) Please let us know what your valve lash (preload) was and what you re-adjusted it to. I usually go about 20 minutes on the sealant (Permatex ultra gray) with good results. then walk away till the next day before starting. Boilermaster
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