Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by boilermaster

  1. Big red mach 1, 25 lb.ft. is WAY too much 6 lb.ft. sounds much better. If it were mine I would remove the carb and check the base for flatness and perhaps draw file it flat again. also remove the carb studs and check the carb base of intake, (possibly find a raised area at the carb studs) Please let us know what your valve lash (preload) was and what you re-adjusted it to. I usually go about 20 minutes on the sealant (Permatex ultra gray) with good results. then walk away till the next day before starting. Boilermaster
  2. Yes sir, this is Eddie's old car. I have been chatting with him outside of this site. This is where I've gotten the list of specs that I do have from. He sold the car in 2016 to a "collector" who for the most part just let the thing sit. That's how the story goes, but I dunno. What I do know from Eddie is that this car under his care for 42 years, was always in top shape and ran like a scalded dog. So he's been a bit surprised to hear of the issues I've been having. He's a good guy, and a great person to talk to about what the car has in it, but without him here looking at it, he's just guessing like the rest of us. again, he's surprised that it's running poorly at all. Big red mach 1, At this point you will probably get more from FastE than you will get from the rest of us. Would ask, was cam installed 4 degrees retarded and how much vacuum was he seeing at hot idle. Intake manifold leak would make sense, as it could have started to leak over time, could just check and see if any of the bolts have worked loose, carb spray (or propane) will only tell you if it is sucking air from external, not internal. Would not rule out faulty carb work either. Boilermaster
  3. Stanglover, Good stuff there. Camshaft could be comp 32-224-4 Did not know or catch that PO was a drag racer, perhaps the camshaft was set up 4 degrees retarded. The 32-224-4 should have 4 degrees advance built into it, but pretty easy to retard that by 4 degrees. lobe lift @ TDC comes to mind here to check valve timing without having to remove front cover. better leave that alone till big red mach 1 gets the rest sorted. Boilermaster
  4. big red mach 1, your vacuum is GOING to increase as rpm increases in park because you are increasing spark timing. in park, there is no load to bring the vacuum down. Here would be my plan for finding highest manifold vacuum. 1 find out how much mechanical advance you have in your distributor A limit that to 10 degrees distributor (20 balancer) 2 adjust timing to highest reading before spark knock with the gasoline you will be using. (warm engine) 3 make certain valve lash is correct and you have no vacuum leaks. (1/2 to 3/4 from zero lash) 4 adjust idle mixture (with correct pcv valve) using both primary and secondary throttle blades 5 when highest reading is achieved, lean the idle mixture screws to just when the vacuum needle starts to drop as to not be over rich at idle. Boilermaster
  5. Big red mach 1, Hemikiller mentioned 2 very important things that should not be overlooked, fuel pressure and lifter preload. Very unusual to have both a mechanical and electric fuel pumps. Do you know what your actual fuel pressure is ? You might want to consider disabling one of your 2 pumps , most holleys with standard needle seats don't like to see over 6 psi of fuel pressure or they tend to run rich. lifter preload should be from 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn from zero (being able to spin the pushrod with fingers with the valve closed) You should at least try slipping a feeler gauge under the secondary throttle blades, then when rpm comes up , lower the primary idle speed screw and try re-adjusting the idle mixture screws. You may not be getting enough air but that would be not enough air for the excessive amount of fuel that you are trying to burn at idle. (eyes burning) Boilermaster
  6. Klingon, Suggest when opening the secondary to get the primary's to close and not get into the transfer slot, to slip feeler gauges between the stop and throttle blades to ( measure how much to go) then the beginning position will not be lost. from there one can see if anything is to be gained. I prefer to replace the stock slotted screw with a set serew with an allen head so the carb only has to be removed once. Boilermaster
  7. 73, mach 1, Did you have to do any transmission tunnel modifications ? and what kind of driveline angles do you have ? I would love to be running this transmission but very concerned that the engine /transmission angle would be too low and therefore require a lot of wedge at the differential. Boilermaster
  8. Big red mach 1, Take the advice midlife and jpaz are offering. You do not want any vacuum advance while trying to set the base timing or total advance. most motorcraft distributors (especially duraspark ) have WAY too much vacuum advance built into them. unless you have actually checked your harmonic balancer with true top dead center, your balancer could be misleading you. how many degreed of mechanical advance does your distributor have? 10 degrees distributor = 20 at the damper. you should be running no more than 10 degrees mechanical advance in your distributor. To see how much mechanical advance your distributor has, leave the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. and check timing at the lowest rpm that your engine is ok with, then slowly raise your rpm until you get your highest timing reading. 16 degrees at idle + 10 degrees mechanical advance will yield you your 36 total. if your actual is over 36 degrees you have too much mechanical advance and you will probably spark knock and put yourself at risk of engine damage. IF you are at or below 36 degrees total, I suggest you advance your base timing by 2 degrees and test drive, if no spark, try another 2 degrees if it spark knocks at any time back it down 2 degrees and keep it there. Now go in there and adjust your idle mixture to achieve best (stable) vacuum at lowest rpm. if vacuum increases and rpm also increases, back the curb idle screw down (as to not go past the idle transfer slots) If you still have really low vacuum at idle, I suspect cam timing or a vacuum leak at the carb base or at the intake manifold. I am running 275/281 duration with 106/114 lobe centers @.575''.580'' lift with basically the same carb as you and pull 17.5'' vacuum at idle. With that kind of vacuum at idle, your carbs power valve is most like open all the time, causing all the richness smell. Boilermaster
  9. This just in. I guess I can only trust myself. # 8 intake valve not sealing worth a darn, thinking these cylinder heads are to blame. took both rockers off #8 still not sealing, air escaping thru throttle body pretty bad. I believe the intake valve is bent. I can open the intake valve by pushing the valve stem down with my thump and index finger (and I don't have to push very hard) the valve spring is NOT broken, do not know what the installed height is just yet but that valve is not sealing. so that intake charge is being pushed back into cylinder #3. cylinder #2 shows similar results, just not as bad. Customer states that these cylinder heads came from FORD motor co. but were sold thru our local store. something just not adding up here. I told my buddy Bob to remove the heads and have them ready for me to inspect. Going to see if they are the correct casting number, and should be easy to tell if they were NEW or rebuilt. Thinking wrong valve springs or wrong installed valve spring height caused the valves to float and perhaps kissed a piston and got bent. Will be back with some answers soon. Boilermaster
  10. Tin man and Tin man traction bars and staggered shocks, no more flexing or wheel hop. Bfg's still suck for traction but they smoke forever, better to get Nitto's to stop the wheel spin. Boilermaster
  11. Don, seems to have started quite a while back, with exhaust manifold bolts not staying tight and at that time they also had cylinders #1 and 2 misfiring due to a head gasket leaking compression between those cylinders. Nothing added or removed from the vehicle other than 2 way radio removed. all emission components still intact. So a whopping 28K miles on this F700 so it has to sit a fair amount. when I arrived on the scene we drained the fuel and it had no smell what so ever, didn't smell like fresh gas and didn't smell like old gas either we flushed the tank and I suggested reverse flushing the fuel injectors, they made the decision to replace all injectors. bolt down rockers with some shims added by myself to get a little less lifter preload, some .030'' shims added. Was wondering about the exhaust being restrictive, even ran it with both pipes dropped down and no effect. Will post more tomorrow when I return from another go round with this beast. Boilermaster
  12. Ok, Just got off the phone with my buddy Bob, and he states that EGR valve is working properly ( vacuum pump opening the valve will stall the engine, and showed him how to read the evp and the evp sensor reads in range. So that would rule out a failed passage in the intake manifold. Tomorrow we will again check compression on those cylinders compared to the others and a cylinder leakdown test. If nothing is out of the norm we are going to see when the noid light trips for each injector bank ( this SHOULD be exactly 360 degrees apart on the harmonic balancer) and we will note the position of the valves of each cylinder when the noid light is turned on, if any intakes are CLOSED when the noid is turned on, this WOULD indicate bad valve timing. Will also again do the slop measuring while turning the balancer thing. My old rule of thumb used to be 6 to 8 degrees on the balancer would indicate a sloppy chain and gears. anyone care to add to this ? I wish there were an actual specification when each injector bank were supposed to fire, but I am thinking that is an engineering only type thing. Don't all jump in at once fella's Boilermaster
  13. new ignition module, (black) installed @ firewall, reman distributor that actually had a NEW hall effect switch. Not completely ruling out cam timing, (cover has never been removed) however bad valve timing usually affects all cylinders, but if only 2 were to have their intake valves closed or exhaust valve open too long, HMMMMM. while turning the balancer from tdc and watching when the rotor just starts to move, I would say the valve timing would not be an issue, but I won't give up on that as an idea. I still believe something is diluting/ degrading the a/f charge trying to go to those two cylinders. also not ruling an intake leak that is below what one can see and is sucking in oil as some of our 351 C engines have done. Still have not heard back from my buddy Bob to see if he had tracked down any of my leads/suggestions. will post back after I hear from him this evening. Boilermaster
  14. Hello all, Got a call the other day and was requested to go to a local business to troubleshoot a misfiring ford truck. Now I am a retired person, and have little interest in doing such things, but one of my personal friends is their mechanic and he is pretty good at what he does, needless to say I was up for a challenge, so here is the scoop. 1985 ish. F700 with a 429 efi that misfires on cylinders 2 and 8. spark plugs for those cylinders will fuel foul and eventually coat with oil from not firing. compression tests good on all cylinders as well as cylinder leakdown tests good on all cylinders, I have checked valvetrain is in good shape, no rounded off cam lobes or weak or broken valve springs. Ignition components have been changed several times with no effect base timing is at 10 degrees with the timing shunt removed and with the timing at 10 degrees the shutter wheel align up with the hall exactly at the leading edge of #1 all fuel injectors are working electronically and have a good spray pattern at fuel pressure, catalysts are not plugged because this model was a non catalyst unit. the ignition firing order is correct (15426378 ) and have checked the injector pairings 1458 and 2376. this engine pulses all 4 injectors at the same time for each bank of injectors and therefore one would assume that the intake valves for any of the injector bank would either have to be in overlap or its intake valve would have to be open to create an A/F charge that would be capable of supporting combustion. Going to check this out tomorrow. Their mechanic states that he had checked the egr valve for operation and actually blocked it off by substituting a gasket with no opening with no effect. I just asked him this morning, what intake port (s) is the EGR paired with ? (could be #7 or 8 and also #2 ? Was thinking that possibly the intake is rotted out under the egr flange where we can't see it between intake and exhaust and therefore contaminating the fuel charge for #2 and #8 ? Thinking that I am going to charge my friends employer for the amount of sleep I lost last night, lol This vehicle has no service codes that are hard faults and is capable of storing codes, as we errantly got a few in there while testing. The ecm is a one of a kind and a replacement cannot be found anywhere, however they did send the one for this truck out to a business to have it rebuilt/reconditioned. if my buddy finds nothing in the egr system, the next step for me is going to remove the rocker covers, see when #1 injector turns on and then check the valve positions with the remaining injectors in that bank, and oh yes have checked the injector pulse rate of each and every injector. Feel free to jump in anyone ? Boilermaster
  15. Vintageman, To me the best way to choose a camshaft that will perform well on pump gas is to adjust your DYNAMIC compression ratio to achieve 8.0 to 8.2 maximum. you cannot pick a camshaft as of yet because you have no idea what your finished mechanical compression ratio will be. 72 degrees overlap is not going to yield you a very stable idle. IMHO 62 degrees overlap would be a more suitable to good idle and low rpm performance. get that mechanical compression ratio down pat and also gear ratio and tire size and you will get a lot more help from this site. Boilermaster
  16. Hey all, Looking to install a shift light on my 71 fb with 408 and 4 speed car. I am using the rocketmans conversion tachometer and duraspark ignition with an e core coil. Looking to see what you all have and what has worked well for you. Not running a msd box at this time but I would like it to be compatable with that as well.
  17. Jpaz, Hmmm, paper fibers from a paper media oil filter, go figure. Not trying to be an ass, but I would be willing to bet good money that if one were to cut open ANY high quality oil filter and rinse it one time , that you will get paper fiber and paper dust if you have a way to collect it (filter). When I was in my Harley Shovelhead days, I bought a $200.00 PURE POWER oil filter, it is re-useable and uses stainless wire mesh as a filter media. I cleaned the filter @ 100 miles and it was amazing what came out of it, paper fibers, paper dust, gasket beading and gasket fibers, the second time I cleaned it 95% of that stuff was gone, never to re-appear. it is truly amazing how much money we spend on our machines and how much faith we are willing to put into a $8 dollar oil filter (myself included) Ever been inside a working paper mill, dust, lots of dust and lots of loose fibers. You have proof of the contaminents, but I suspect this may be a common answer used my manufactures for lifter failure. NOWI am thinking of spending some real money on an oil filter for my nearly new 408. Boilermaster
  18. tnfastbk, Great ideas here on using o2 meter to see what the A/F is doing while you are surging. You have not stated if you have this same surge in first or second gears. You need to first find out if the surge is load specific, rpm specific or speed specific. Yes, it is probably related to load (or the lack of it) but just another simple road test will tell you a lot. Just because you have tried different base timing adjustments does not mean all is well in that distributor. Nobody has asked about your advance curve here, what if your mechanical advance is sticking ? One thing that I have done in the past, trying to figure out surge conditions with holleys and transition is to slip a piece of feeler gauge between the secondary throttle stop and then drive the car, without opening the secondaries (of course) and see if it affects your surge, if it does not, you have not (lost) your secondary adjustment. if it does, then perhaps an adjustment (bias ) is in order. You are probably too lean with too little secondary and still being on the primary transition or too rich (too much secondary and just past the primary transition. Have you checked your float levels since the carb spacer and in tank fuel pump ? 7 psi can be a little much for some holley needle and seats and can drive float levels up and make it over rich. Boilermaster
  19. RC92234, In hindsight, it might have been an option to have just cut the heads off of all the bolts that did not want to come loose. I have only been smart enough to do this only ONCE !. Then you might have seen how thin the bolts have gotten over time. All of us that have changed a lot of water pumps on ford engines have seen how thin the bolts tend to get with corrosion. How many have done this very same water pump job and said to themselves ( wow, I really got lucky there) You were not lucky. Let this be a lesson to our members that these are 40 something year old engines we are working on ! Please keep us posted on what your mechanic and machinist intend to do, and your progress. Boilermaster
  20. RC92234, Have to agree with most of bentworker has to say. I have used tap exractors in the past with pretty good success, however you have to ask yourself (why did the tap break in the first place ?) you CANNOT expect the tap to do it's job if the hole is drilled off center. a magnetic base drill would have done wonders here ! I would suggest at this point , that you remove the timing chain cover and carefully clean up the old gasket material so you can better see where the bolt centers are or (were). Then and only then attempt to use a tap extractor. Ask yourself (how much torque was I applying when the tap broke ?) Find the angle of the broken tap before attempting to use a tap extractor. If you were NOT using a lot of torque when the tap broke, you might just get lucky. Probably shouldn't tell anyone this. but I once removed a broken tap (miles out in the woods) by using the remaining piece of tap and pieces of a hex key and 2 nuts of the tap size, my buddy said the tap just broke for no reason. Yes it came out pretty easy. An old machinist once told me , if you drop a tap on a concrete floor, to throw that tap away, or it will bite you. if you get to a point where you are going to try to use a heli-coil, I might suggest using the water pump as a drill guide (providing the remaining threads are clean. and leave timing cover (OFF) or NOT using the 3 threaded holes in the cover. Once you have a hole started use a magnetic base drill (even though you may have to remove the radiator. Boilermaster
  21. Nightbeacon, Before adding any type of octane booster you should be sure that the spark knock/ pinging is not being caused by carbon deposits in the combustion chamber that can cause HOT spots and making your spark knock/pinging. That is normally accomplished by running top end cleaner thru the engine. Half of the top cleaner would be slowly dripped thru the carb on a warm engine while keeping the engine from stalling and the remainder would be used to stall the engine out and left to hot soak while the engine cools off. You will make lots of smoke and the engine will be hard to re-start, but this does work for removing carbon deposits The distributor should also be checked to see if it is over advancing, due to worn parts, both in the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanism By adding a octane booster, you may be just covering up/ masking another problem, your engine should not need octane higher than 91 and using a higher octane than needed does nothing for your engine. Boilermaster
  22. KC, That explains why the lever on mine has more offset, as my transmission has the seat belt switch as well. Boilermaster
  23. The fit of my Tinman sub-frame connectors and under-ride traction bars is flawless. Boilermaster.
  • Create New...