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SteveO_71

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SteveO_71 last won the day on May 27 2019

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About SteveO_71

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    I get my mail here

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 Mach 1, 351c 4v, C6 trans, grabber blue with white interior

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  • Location
    Upstate NY

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  1. You should be able to remove the light from the hood and turn it off and on by tipping it back and forth. If its original, it could be that the contacts are now always connected and probably needs replacing. My original was doing the same thing and it was replaced by one of these. Fasten to the hood and feed the wire down to the fender area where its connected. You should see it turn off as the hood is lowered even before its closed all the way. https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=trunk%2Blight%2Bassy%2Band%2Bextension%2Bwire&top_parent=200001&year=
  2. do you feel comfortable sliding under there and do you use jack stands also?
  3. ahhh.. I always thought it was more like a material. So, are the perforations in the material the only difference between original and repro seatcovers?
  4. I dont know how well 303 will work on the comfortweave since its more of a product for vinyl protection. Maybe another type of material cleaner for the seats?
  5. I dont know if adjusting the steering box screw is the proper way to go. I've read where people experiment with that adjustment ( I believe its adjusting the sector shaft ), things seem better and then there is no steering at some point, usually while driving down the road. If you are not happy with their "rebuild" you could send it to another place. Myself and others have used the following: http://www.powersteering.com/power-steering-gearbox-rebuilds/
  6. Just wondering if your breaker plate ( or vacuum advance is sticking ). i.e you set timing for what is believed to be 16 BTDC, drive it, breaker plate or advance arm changes, timing drops to 10 BTDC. Seems odd that timing would change like that after driving. My 71 had the opposite thing happening. I would set initial timing to 10 BTDC, drive it, recheck timing ( vac hoses disconnected and plugged ) and it would be 17 BTDC. I would mistakenly reset to 10 which would now be almost TDC so totally wrong. After checking a few other things, turned out to be a sticking arm in my vacuum a
  7. For whatever reason, I could never get a spring into the lower hose so had to leave it out. Here is a related article but cant say how valid it is: Original equipment molded radiator hoses often were equipped with a coil inside them. Some refer to this coil as a spring, but it isn't really a spring. Actually just a piece of thin metal rod that has been twisted, it was designed to facilitate the installation of coolant on the assembly line, and nothing more. When the cooling system of a car is completely drained, or in the case of a brand new car under construction, never had c
  8. Sounds like the shop mentioned has found some issues and hopefully they fix things. However, havent used this place but seen their name mentioned a few times. May be good to have as backup if needed. https://www.mustangbarn.com/
  9. ahhh.. NPD must carry them now. I couldnt find any listed with them when I was looking a few years ago. Where ever you buy them, they do look good installed and are not that noticeable.
  10. You may want to try the extra bright 245 lumen ones.
  11. I have these on mine and they look pretty good. http://jaegerbrothersauto.com/auto-parts/1971-1973 Mustang Splash Guards, Full Set_217.html
  12. I replaced mine with LEDs and everything looks great! Here are some options for getting the factory color or other colors, if desired. https://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/ Actually for the center gauges, I installed these which are really bright and dimmable. https://www.hipoparts.com/245-lumen-20x-plasma-smd-bulb-194-t-10-wedge-360-wide-angle/
  13. I like the idea of a seethru gas filter but have heard that the glass or plastic ones are not recommended. Are there any seethru ones that ARE safe to use?
  14. Car for sale for someone with extra money floating around! Be interesting to hear peoples thoughts. https://www.streetdreamstexas.com/vehicles/843/1971-ford-mustang-mach1-super-cobra-jet-429-drag-pac-4-speed-detroit-lokar
  15. On my 71, 351c 4v Mach1, I currently have a fuel filter between the tank and pump. I'd like to add one from the pump to the carb. I believe my holley 4160 carb has a 9/16-24 inlet thread but the common screw in filters I see ( for ex NPD 9155-5 ) are for 7/8-20. So, is there an adapter between the two thread sizes, do I not put a filter between the pump and carb or, just use an inline filter with 5/16 hose barbs? What inline filters do people prefer (not glass or plastic)? I was trying to avoid the two cut pieces of hose by using a screw in filter. Thanks!
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