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SteveO_71

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SteveO_71 last won the day on May 27 2019

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About SteveO_71

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    I get my mail here

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 Mach 1, 351c 4v, C6 trans, grabber blue with white interior

Location

  • Location
    Upstate NY

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  1. Here are loads of free fonts that I have used as needed: https://www.dafont.com/
  2. Looks really nice! I was always wondering the proper way to rehab a steering wheel.
  3. Just curious, who was your original rebuilder for the pump?
  4. Good to hear! It will be interesting to find out what they find so please post their findings, if possible.
  5. I have dealt with powersteering.com in the past for a power steering box rebuild and they seemed to do nice work. These days I would guess companies would want good reputations in order to keep business coming in, over getting bad ones. Personally I would trust a company that specifically does power steering related work as opposed to third party sales since you dont know where they get rebuilt cores or who rebuilds them. Macs advertises as "new" but are they really new? Hard to believe. I thought everything for a car 50 years old was repro now a days. Hopefully it will continue to f
  6. That is a nice looking repair job! To the OP, I've found that the SEM paints seem to be a good color match. It was anyway, for the white interior that I have. You may want to use their vinyl prep before painting.
  7. Kilgon, realize that some vacuum advance modules do not adjust with an allen screw. The advance for my 71 doesnt and I thought the factory made them non adjustable starting with the 70's. The aftermarket ones typically will.
  8. Don, nice grid of vacuum advance vs retard adjustments and breaker plate movement. So, I'm assuming your vacuum advance module is the allen wrench adjustment type? Are you starting at one end of travel and then turning the number of recorded retard turns from there (no retard, 2.5, 5, 7 etc)?
  9. Ahhh good point. Could be two of the same side.
  10. Those are original? I thought original ones had the clamps on opposite sides to make a true left and right. Like these::
  11. I believe its a 3 port. https://www.npdlink.com/product/valve-assy-distributor-vacuum-control-3-port-mounts/169678?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%2Bcontrol%2Bvalve%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D This tool makes replacing them easier. https://www.npdlink.com/product/socket-vacuum-control-valve/205949?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%2Bcontrol%2Bvalve%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D
  12. If the rpms jump with the manifold vacuum connected, some of the timing increase could be due to centrifugal advance. Are you using the DVCV to route vacuum lines between the dizzy advance module and ported/manifold?
  13. Your factory sending units and dummy lights would stay intact. For example, I have a center gauge cluster in my 71 and I wanted to keep factory gauges working. I added an additional sending unit for the oil pressure ( used a T connection ) and an additional water temp sensor ( heater hose adapter ) for autometer gauges. Ammeter gauge was converted to a voltmeter.
  14. Seems like it would the same as adding any auxiliary gauges. Keep the sensors/wiring for original idiot lights. As mentioned, you would need the proper sending sensors for oil press and temp gauges. Typically the amp meter is converted to a voltmeter to make it usable.
  15. I think the important points to not over-tighten the bearings on the disc brakes are steps 5 & 6. Tighten to 17-25 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, loosen and then re-tighten to 10-15 IN-LBS. I misread that the first time when I did my bearings.
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