Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


SteveO_71 last won the day on May 27 2019

SteveO_71 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About SteveO_71

  • Rank
    I get my mail here

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 Mach 1, 351c 4v, C6 trans, grabber blue with white interior


  • Location
    Upstate NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That is a nice looking repair job! To the OP, I've found that the SEM paints seem to be a good color match. It was anyway, for the white interior that I have. You may want to use their vinyl prep before painting.
  2. Kilgon, realize that some vacuum advance modules do not adjust with an allen screw. The advance for my 71 doesnt and I thought the factory made them non adjustable starting with the 70's. The aftermarket ones typically will.
  3. Don, nice grid of vacuum advance vs retard adjustments and breaker plate movement. So, I'm assuming your vacuum advance module is the allen wrench adjustment type? Are you starting at one end of travel and then turning the number of recorded retard turns from there (no retard, 2.5, 5, 7 etc)?
  4. Ahhh good point. Could be two of the same side.
  5. Those are original? I thought original ones had the clamps on opposite sides to make a true left and right. Like these::
  6. I believe its a 3 port. https://www.npdlink.com/product/valve-assy-distributor-vacuum-control-3-port-mounts/169678?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%2Bcontrol%2Bvalve%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D This tool makes replacing them easier. https://www.npdlink.com/product/socket-vacuum-control-valve/205949?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%2Bcontrol%2Bvalve%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D
  7. If the rpms jump with the manifold vacuum connected, some of the timing increase could be due to centrifugal advance. Are you using the DVCV to route vacuum lines between the dizzy advance module and ported/manifold?
  8. Your factory sending units and dummy lights would stay intact. For example, I have a center gauge cluster in my 71 and I wanted to keep factory gauges working. I added an additional sending unit for the oil pressure ( used a T connection ) and an additional water temp sensor ( heater hose adapter ) for autometer gauges. Ammeter gauge was converted to a voltmeter.
  9. Seems like it would the same as adding any auxiliary gauges. Keep the sensors/wiring for original idiot lights. As mentioned, you would need the proper sending sensors for oil press and temp gauges. Typically the amp meter is converted to a voltmeter to make it usable.
  10. I think the important points to not over-tighten the bearings on the disc brakes are steps 5 & 6. Tighten to 17-25 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, loosen and then re-tighten to 10-15 IN-LBS. I misread that the first time when I did my bearings.
  11. once you get settled and are exploring, check out the Titan missile museum near Tucson. Only launch facility open to the public.
  12. You should be able to remove the light from the hood and turn it off and on by tipping it back and forth. If its original, it could be that the contacts are now always connected and probably needs replacing. My original was doing the same thing and it was replaced by one of these. Fasten to the hood and feed the wire down to the fender area where its connected. You should see it turn off as the hood is lowered even before its closed all the way. https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=trunk%2Blight%2Bassy%2Band%2Bextension%2Bwire&top_parent=200001&year=
  13. do you feel comfortable sliding under there and do you use jack stands also?
  14. ahhh.. I always thought it was more like a material. So, are the perforations in the material the only difference between original and repro seatcovers?
  15. I dont know how well 303 will work on the comfortweave since its more of a product for vinyl protection. Maybe another type of material cleaner for the seats?
  • Create New...