SteveO_71

Keep the pink wire connected from the tach to the coil and use a 1.5 ohm Ignitor coil. To low of an ohm coil will damage the tach. Use the relay to supply the run-only 12v to the Pertronix module in the dizzy.

I used one of the repro ones that NPD sells since it looks and works like the original. Use some material sleeving to cover the wire if you dont like the looks of it. https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=13a756&top_parent=200001&year=

If you dont want the hassle of buying a cover and replacing one cover for the other ( I didnt ) there are places that sell electronic VRs already with the concourse look. There isnt that much of a price difference if you buy one completed or buy one and buy replacement cover. Here is one from Virginia Classic Mustang, for example, and I'm sure there are others as well. https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/73-Motorcraft-Stamped-Voltage-Regulator-Use-with-factory-AC-P1334.aspx

I believe most use the 3M strip caulk thats sold in a number of places, auto and hardware related. Trouble is, you get so much of it when you buy it and only need a little for the doors.

Here is the NADA value for mine. I would guess mine is between the average to high in the current condition. Hagerty seems to have a lower value, for whatever reason. I always use NADA as the gospel.

What is that section of hose at the fuel pump? Your fuel line going to the carb doesnt connect directly to the pump??

Here is a video on how to duplicate plastic grain. Havent tried it but it looks interesting.

Wow! Looks like you used to do a lot of work with image enhancement algorithms.

reading material re spring in the lower hose that I came across from somewhere: Original equipment molded radiator hoses often were equipped with a coil inside them. Some refer to this coil as a spring, but it isn't really a spring. Actually just a piece of thin metal rod that has been twisted, it was designed to facilitate the installation of coolant on the assembly line, and nothing more. When the cooling system of a car is completely drained, or in the case of a brand new car under construction, never had coolant in it, there is a considerable amount of air in the passage ways. Normally, when filling up the cooling system, you start the car to circulate the coolant, displace trapped air, and then top it off. On the assembly line, this wasn't feasible, so air in the cooling system was evacuated by essentially pulling a vacuum on it. This also had the added advantage of speeding up the introduction of the coolant mixture to the cooling system as well. The coil in the lower radiator hose prevented the hose from collapsing under this higher than normal vacuum. Once the car left the factory, the coil served no further purpose. This is why replacement hoses usually do not have a coil in them. Most cooling systems operate at 12-15 P.S.I., which is controlled by the radiator cap. This is enough pressure to allow a normally functioning cooling system to operate efficiently, yet not enough to cause collapsed hoses or leaks in seals if they're in good condition. If the lower radiator hose collapses, it is normally due to a fault somewhere else in the system, and is not necessarily indicative of a bad hose, although an old hose certainly might be susceptible to collapse due to age. Normally, if the hose is in good condition but collapsing and blocking the flow of coolant, the radiator cap is bad or there's a blockage somewhere else causing pressure to build up in the cooling system. As vehicles with original hoses began to age, the coil would sometimes begin to corrode and deteriorate, circulating tiny pieces of metal throughout the cooling system. We'll leave it to your imagination what this did to water pumps and thermostats. This is just one of many interesting stories about automobiles, the people who build them, and how they were built, brought to you by Automotive Mileposts.

I use Amsoil. No additional additives needed, has zinc and also has rust preventative. https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-zrt/?code=ZRTQT-EA

I had my steering box rebuilt last year. After reinstalling everything, I noticed the steering wheel is off center slightly. I have read other related posts on here and have rechecked things but still have one question. Right now, steering wheel to shaft marks are aligned, rag joint is keyed and is centered with bolt where it should be pointing 12 oclock, pitman arm only goes on one way and was installed by rebuilder. MY question relates to connecting the pitman arm to center link. I had the steering wheels pointed straight when I made the connection but is it possible that the pitman arm / center link connection is a few degrees off that would cause the steering wheel to be a few degrees off from center?? Am I correct in that there are just splines in that connection ( pitman arm/center link ) as opposed to a keyed connection? So, I could make an adjustment there. I'm still going to have the overall alignment rechecked but wanted to start with this check.

This diagram may help even though it has the tach:

I bought white door panels for my 71 from Mustang Market. The color, fit, construction and price were all good. https://mustangmarket.net/Mustang/1964-1973 Mustang/Mustang-Main.htm

I'm not currently looking for a car but check dealer inventories on occasion. Here is a Boss 351 that seems nice and the price is lower than the $70-80k, others I've seen. As far as detailing and an AACA winner, I dont notice any decals under the hood. Probably other little things, I'm missing. IF I was looking for a car, with my limited knowledge I would be tempted with considering this one. Be interested to hear what opinions do you all have? Thanks! https://www.southernmotors.com/Inventory/Details/5202

Surprisingly I did find the VIN nbrs. The whitish area in my first post is the area I sanded a few years ago. The lightly stamped numbers can be seen there 20047 <something>