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Spike Morelli

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Everything posted by Spike Morelli

  1. If unsure of installation a 3rd time in, why not simply have the transmission shop install the trans. At this point, it would seem that time and money would be saved, and of course, the shop doing the install and repair would warranty it to function properly. I myself, feel confident of much of my mechanical skills, but that doesn't stop me from out-sourcing those who do it every day, to which there is no shame in doing.
  2. Interesting topic, of look what I found in the trunk. At one time, I worked at Nick's T-Birds, we had a large car lot of donor T-Birds for odds and ends, and I aquired a treasure trove of random junk from in the trunks and under the seats, while working there. Of which, I found a large assortment of can openers ( church keys), with the beer company's name or logo stamped on them. Coors, Miller, Pabst, Schlitz, etc. I eventually mounted them all in a shadow box to hang on the wall. I think there's 12-14 of 'em. Of course, I found lots of old coins. I even found a 76 Union credit card from the late 60s or 70s, the kind that you used to hand to the attendant and he'd swipe a carbon receipt over it, embossing your name and card number onto the receipt. ( Gas was 36.9 for regular and 39.9 for super leaded then). I myself worked in a 76 Union, so I remember the cards well. I even found a professional billiard player's cue stick, in it's protective case, it unscrewed into 2 or 3 pieces, and was balanced. Weird what gets lost in a car huh?
  3. Nothing wrong with Thomas Dolby. Actually, "science' wasn't all that bad when I first heard it. Boy George I thought was just B.S. But who am I to judge, as I have found DEVO to be more of interest. Still, I think I'm turning Japanese and eating Iguana in Tijuana on a Mexican radio whoa-whoa.....
  4. I first saw a '71 Mustang walking home from High School in '71, brand new, sitting in a neighbors driveway. Compared to what I had been used to seeing in the muscle car/pony cars of the day, the new '71s struck me as ugly. The one I saw was Medium Yellow Gold.......kinda "American Cheese" looking, and I didn't care for the color either. Today, after owing a '66 GT-350, a '65 Hi-Po GT coupe, a 1970 Olds 442 W-30, a '69 GTO Judge, several assorted vintage hot rods,.....I've changed my opinion from when I was 18. I dig my '71 Mach. It's been very dependable to me for a good many years now and is sort of my buddy. How in the hell did I end up with a Medium Yellow Gold car too?? Well, I think my '71 has an agressive look to it. Most new Hondas are faster than my car, I think, but I don't care. Most people who see my car think it's cooler than a new car ( probably because it is!) Oh yeah, no offense to Chevrolet fans, but, the magazines are full of Camaros, Novas, Chevelles, so having one of those doesn't really stand out, as often as you see them. The '71-'73 model Mustangs are fewer between at car events, even at Ford car events, making the cars different from the "me too" crowd. Saginaw steering is a definate improvement over the early push-pull steering system, and a 9" rear end is never out of style. I'm sure there's something about the cars I don't care for, but then again, I don't tend to dwell on it. Funny how things appear with time. I remember just hating the 80s New Wave music. Now, with all the Rap B.S., "She Blinded Me With Science" feels rockin'........
  5. Today is April 26, almost 3 months since I started to post on the Aussie heads, and the 289 Hi-Po clone engine. My garage is all torn apart and boxed for the move, Aussie heads are packed un-finished. The 289 heads are just about finished with the porting.( Our porting crew is doing my heads on the side, in their spare time, hence, the long time waiting.....worth being patient though). The 1.880 intakes have been machined from 2" blanks. I'm not sure if I will be able to finish them up and post photos before I move. Apologies about the dragging out of this post, hopefully, I will move and stay in that house the rest of my days, as moving is such a royal pain in the arse!
  6. Getting out and driving your car is really the where the fun is. Now and again, I will attend a car show/gathering which happens early on a Sunday morning in a parking lot and dissipates by 10 AM ( due to businesses opening then ). Another car owner, a Shelby owner who attends, organized a drive afterwards, so now, after showing, we drive over to the beach from the valley for a "brunch". It's a gas to tour through the canyon to the beach with a line of neat cars.
  7. When I first bought my Mach, lo some 30 years ago, the Ammeter wouldn't move either way, charge or discharge. I was working at a shop, and the owner had a look at it and told me , wiring-wise, it was hooked up correctly. I guess it's just a bad guage, but I've never replaced it since I bought the car. I'd really like to replace the whole 3-guage set-up with some matching AutoMeter red-orange pointered , factory appearing guages. To do so will require some adaption, and I just don't want to stop driving it to do the adaption , just because of that. The Oil Pressure and Temp guages , in that trio, work fine. One of the advertisers converts the Amperes guage to a factory looking Voltmeter. I kinda like that simple modification.
  8. My computer is telling me that I can't send any more messages because my Message box is full. So......How do I dump all of the previous messages to clear it out? Make this easy on me, I may not comprehend Technical Terms, but I can follow directions.
  9. Mudbilly, I am aware of a few window adjustment points inside of the door, that can affect the "lean-in", and "lean-out" of the glass where it meets the roofline. Perhaps you've already been through all of the window adjustments, but if not, they're worth a try. Whistling air sounds can really drive one nuts. I believe, the shop manual regarding the body shows all the different adjustment points, if you have one to look through. If your "Roof Rail Weatherstrip" has dried up, and that's the culprit, it's not that difficult to replace. The biggest part to that on mine, was to drop the rear ( stationary) windows to get the weatherstrip in and out, which required removing the rear seat and rear quarter interior pieces. It sounds worse than it really is. It was a two Pepsi job, maybe three.....
  10. I was a passenger in a friend's 69 Camaro when, on the freeway, the right rear wheel came off. The cause was that he was missing one or two lug nuts, possibly broken studs. My friend had been driving the car this way and didn't think it mattered. The moral of this story to ALL of you, is don't drive if you are missing any lug nuts or have a broken stud. Fix it, or get it fixed. You will save money in the end, and maybe even save a life.
  11. I just thought I'd enter a tongue and cheek entry to what I've done recently on my car. In a nutshell.... a whole lot of nothing. As I have posted before, I drive the car everyday, to and from work. My wife and I went to a Mexican restaurant tonight in my car, met another couple, but that's common for us. Very Common for the useage of the car. Point is, although there's a few items I need to attend to on the car, It keeps going day, after day, month after month. My car seems to be comfortable getting used as the factory intended. When I work on the car, It's to drive it, not to store it, and make no mistake, I need to do a few maintenence items......and I will. In the meantime, I keep driving and enjoying the Mach 1 . I use it a lot more than I ever work on it. It's like the DuraCell rabbit.....it just keeps going, and going........Knock on wood.......
  12. Today is March 30th, 289 heads should be finished with the porting pretty soon..........hold on
  13. Continuing on here, out of sequence, bronze the K-Liners show here, but were installed prior to any seat and chamber work. First two photos show heads and chambers, ready to undergo porting and polishing. Second photo shows top side of head, with pushrod slots drilled open ( done for guideplate useage ), stud bosses milled and tapped, and guides trimmed for PC seals. "4M2" casting equates to December 2nd, 1964
  14. Next photo here, shows machine blending of Intake ( 1.880") and exhaust ( 1.600"). All seat work is held to the exact same depths, making spring set-ups and chamber CCing accurate. Shelbys never ran 1.940 intakes in 289s, as some people foolishly attempt. Don't even consider it. Breathing with those intakes is no better and the valve margin hangs over the spark plug recess.
  15. I know the blog started out as an Australian Head project heading, but the 289s are further along, so I'll show you those. The first photo shows the new hardened exhaust seats installed, sized to accept the 1.600 valves. Chambers are "roughed and relieved". Note gentle radius of chamber wall to seat.
  16. The 289 is a Hi-Po/ Shelby engine build up I'm doing for myself...from parts...I don't have a car for it. I'd like to put it in a '32 roadster eventually. When I see small block Fords in hot rods, it seems I've seen every incarnation except this legendary powerplant, so I got the calling to build one from scratch. I had a C5AE-E block, bought the main caps from a private source, along with the harmonic balancer, centrifical dual point dist, flywheel, had a Hi-Po crank, rods, early timing set with the counterweight, etc. Holman/Moody supplied the cam ground on a factory Hi-Po core. This will, for all intents be a proper component assembled 289 Hi-Po build ( again, not using the restorer correct heads ), with Shelby's externals and the affore mentioned competition head work. Even using the correct factory fasteners for assembly. I used to have a '65 Mustang K code GT coupe years ago, also a '66 Gt-350, and I never forgot how that engine liked to rev. Today, guys can just buy aftermarket blocks, aluminum heads, stroker kits, rollers, add infinitum , but that's too easy, the modern builds don't have the lineage and soul that builds used to, at least, it seems to me. Many have asked me why a "High performance 289"? Maybe because very few have one. I guess it either turns you on, or it doesn't. As for the pick-up truck deal, who knows, I may go that route.
  17. Boise, Idaho where my wife is from, and all of her family lives there. I've been going there for the last 20 years, and have gotten to know a few miscreants there. I'm gonna have to get another car to drive in Winter inclement weather. That's one of the hardest things to wrap my head around, with the move. I'm not a truck guy at all, most guys there are pick-up minded, I may have to bow to necessity.
  18. Well, it looks like I'm moving around June 1st, so I have to take a hiatus from the Aussie head work-up, as time is creeping up and I have lots to pack. The 289 heads however, have a head start, are coming along nicely, and will be part of a Hi-Po build. Photos of that process are being taken and will get posted when completed, before the move. I just had 3 engine blocks acid-dipped to remove rust and corrosion, prior to moving, because I'm not aware of any acid dipper where I'm moving to ( sigh ). For the 289 Hi-Po project, I'll be modifying a set of '65 289 non-Hi-Po castings, as modifying the hard to find and expensive Hi-Po castings, is a travesty for restorers, and there is no advantage, breathing-wise. Four of the pushrod slots in these castings I have are worn, and the pushrods would fit sloppy, so they are good candidates to put guide plates on, and I'm machining for screw-in studs anyway. Heads are acid-dipped. Here's some before photos of the 289 C5AE heads. ARP is the stud manufacturer of choice, and the 5/16th guide plates are Pro-Stock Engineering pieces ( Pro-Stock Engineering is no longer, I've just happened to have the plates in my stock for 30 years). Heads will receive bronze K-liner guides, chambers relieved for larger valves, ( Shelby 1.880/ 1.600 ), hardened exhaust seats, and a full competition port and polish including chambers. Our shop did some work for Carroll Shelby back when, and these will be just as they were done then, save for welding up the "banana ports", not necessary to my build.
  19. McMaster-Carr is "the bomb", and their delivery is faster than anyone. I really like that company.
  20. That roller bearing arm seems like a good idea, and the price is higher, but not out of range. Next time you go to the grocery store, look at what stuff costs. It's all kinda relative in the big picture. Most of the time the better things just cost more. Not to appear snooty, but there is an old saying....."Anyone can make something a little bit cheaper in design, price and quailty,.....and those who consider cost only, are that man's lawfull prey." Just saying........
  21. I run a 3.50:1 Trac-Loc in my Mach. I installed the gears mainly for more grunt to tow with. I also run the stock 14" wheels. Rpm at appx 65/70 is 3500. I don't mind it, however more than one person riding passenger has commented on the RPM. I guess it comes down to what you're used to.
  22. It's been a while since I've been into the heater/AC system, but I believe the heater valve is always open, all except for when the A/C is selected on the dashboard slider, which sends vacuum to the valve to shut off hot water when cooled air is running through the heater/AC box. Anyone else find this to be true?
  23. Just a follow-up here. E-Z Off Oven Cleaner, i have just recently found out, has changed it's formula. The stuff used to work well removing old paint from plastic, but no longer is strong enough to do the job. I have been building model cars and airplanes since I was a kid, and used it to strip models way back. Recently, I had the need to strip a model car.....but the new EZ Off didn't even touch it. My local hobby shop verified that it no longer will work. Oh, hey Alberta Blue Mach,.....I forgot to tell you, I'm diggin' those GT-40 style wheels on your car too...
  24. Yes. Like anything else on these cars, with use and time, it wears. When I first got my car, it was a running, driving, presentable car, however, still an older used car. One of the best things I did shortly after getting the car, was to purchase EVERYTHING new for the front suspension...upper & lower arms, new coil springs, shocks, pitman & idler arms, inner & outer tie rod ends, strut rod bushings, spring perches, travel stop bumpers, sway bar and frame mounts, sway bar end links, spring insulator do-nuts. I did the same for the back axle suspension too. I took the car to a friends shop and instructed him to "just drop all of the old suspension on the floor", and install all of the new stuff. Afterwards, the car handled like it was on rails, nice and tight. In the 30 years now that I've been driving it since, I have replaced various suspension pieces as they get worn, piece by piece,...it happens when they're driven. I just replaced my rear springs from the ones put on 30 years back. Some people own a car and never feel the need to replace the P/S steering box, or have the rear end's third member overhauled. They may just be lucky, but everything wears. I've probably changed out worn tires as many times as any. I used to run 14" Goodyear Eagle ST's ( shows you how long ago that was ), they're not made anymore, but have bought 3 sets since of BF Goodrich Radial TA's to my memory, due to the miles I put on the car.
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