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    1973 Convertible 302/C4


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  1. I'm in the process of rebuilding a variable ratio box code SPA AF, on inspection the box is good with minimal wear except for the 24 recirculating balls, they are pitted and lost there chrome finish due to water ingress probably I'm finding it hard to tell the chrome from the black balls, I've been searching this thread regarding ball diameters it seems that 0.28125 or 9/32 is the standard size, the black balls i think are .28141 from reading this thread. I did a Google on .28141 and found a Cadillac 1963 power steering pdf, below is a snip from it. the full pdf is from here https://4door.com/manuals/cadillac/1963/1963_Cadillac_Manual/05%20-Power%20Steering.pdf You would think they would offer the dimensions of both colours? Regarding the image above under NOTE, my rack piston only say 282 no other markings, do you think that this means standard size 7 balls. what is the type/hardness for these when buying replacements? Are the black balls the same material or are they any different, I'm in the UK, i can get hold of the 9/32 0.28125 easily enough but the .28141 are much harder to come by .28141 seems to equate as a fraction 28141/100000 that's a whole different level of ball size. I'll try to measure them but I feel my cheap ebay digital verniers are not going to be accurate enough.
  2. Steve, thanks regarding "Ford Basic Numbering" when searching those numbers I was noting that the end letters were changing and some searches were referencing 68/69/70's and yea I came to the conclusion that it was a base number with revisions. Luckily for me the DOAZ-6A664-C hose is available from one of the UK suppliers approx £23~ which makes it better to get here what with post and import duties to London, I do know from this site Don at Ohio Mustang Supply is the go-to guy with 71-3 mustangs. When I get a big order together he is top of my list. :) John
  3. David thanks for your reply, looking at your pics for the 351 the connection on the rear are different from mine; mine has the steel line as kindly provided in the image by Steve. The image of the Ford setup really does help, confusing to look at at first glance because the illustration is looking from the rear of the engine facing to the front. With the Ford part numbers I can see that #6a664 equates to 351c http://www.cjponyparts.com/pcv-carburetor-hose-351c-1970-1973/p/PCVH4/ if that is the correct hose I will buy. Hose #6853 is just a straight piece to the Elbow #6767 equates to https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=6767&parent=1&year=0 Grommet #6a892 equates to https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_grommet_pcv_valve_c8sz_6a892_a-105598-397.html The other parts I have already. Thanks all :) I think I have enough information to fix it up correctly. Edit just noticed on Steve's engine pics I'm also missing the vapour cannister hose, do we have a part # for that?
  4. Hi, I have a 73 302w convertible, with original air cleaner. I'm trying to find out what hoses connect to the rockers covers. I can find only for 351c when I do google mustang searches. Standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay on the right rocker cover bank the oil filler twist off cap and check valve is at the front nearest to the radiator what is the hose from that to the air cleaner, same for the PCV valve on the left hand rear rocker cover. Any help part numbers or photos of an original 302 air cleaner setup would be very much appreciated as most pics or info mostly come up about the 351c. I did see a post about 302w hoses on this site with regards to pep boys Part #:46032 ¦ SKU: 328108 its not available and further searches comes up for a Chrysler Ram. John
  5. I use oven cleaner on cast iron heads, works a treat on removing carbon and oil, the type I use is based on Sodium Hydroxide and the kit include large plastic bags which are normally used for cleaning the oven racks, you brush paste on the cleaner seal the bag and leave for a day or so. I just swap the oven racks for Cylinder Heads normally standing them on their ends and paste the gloop on and tie the bags off, leave for a few days occasionally opening the bag and re-slopping the oven gloop that has collected at the bottom of the bag back over the heads with a cheap paint brush and reseal. When happy I just take them out and hose or jet wash with detergent, cleans them like brand new. Be careful to wear gloves as it burns skin, (similar to good paint stripper) also dry the heads quickly to prevent flash rust, or lightly oil with cheap penetrating oil 3in1. In the UK, I use Ovenpride http://www.ovenpride.com which I buy in the cheap Pound Stores for err a £pound. I'm sure you have the same or similar in the US. Don't use on Aluminium though.
  6. Thanks for all the info and the pic from rpxr400 which really helped, I tried looking at Don's web picture but detail was too hard to discern. I know Don 'Ohio Mustang Supply' is a big supporter of 71/3 from reading this forum and it's really good to know that someone is starting to deal with parts for this marque. Don, I will order from you when the time comes for me to swapout, oh and get bigger pics my eyes ain't what they used to be. ;)
  7. Not in a hurry and thanks for the offer. This is more a project for next year, looking at the NPD link none of those screw apart at the base, the power option one looks similar to the generics available on ebay uk for £20-30, I think the method to fit the power option involves removing the fender. I quite like the idea of the standard whip antenna that unscrews at the base as apparently available on fox bodies. I seem to remember a few years ago seeing them for sale may have been on 'west coast classic cougar' but don't see them now. Any link to screw off rectangular base whip antenna appreciated. Edit, may be this is the Fox body antenna I need http://www.cjponyparts.com/bright-finish-antenna-kit-1979-1993/p/ANT9D/ doesn't mention about unscrewing at the base though, if it does it would do just fine.
  8. I don't mind having a fixed antenna, as long as it can be removed at the base, just leaving the fixing plate on the fender, I have a standard repro 73 antenna that telescopes down but it still sticks approx 12" out of the fender, if it unscrewed at the base I'd be happy. Are Fox body mustangs fixed antenna removable at the base? I'm not familiar with fox bodies, if so that would be the easiest option for me; still I'd love to have a power antenna in the fender.
  9. A good idea, wouldn't work on London streets, that antenna would be like a red rag to a bull popping through the cover, kids or for that matter adults would bend or rip it off in no time.
  10. 25 year ago, I remember as if it was yesterday ;) Good idea with doing a cardboard template, I'll most likely do that. I have the original long antenna but I'm going to be parking my car outside on the streets of London and will use a car cover and the Antenna is a problem in that respect, I did try those internal windscreen aerials but it was worst than useless. There are an increasing amount of classic cars parked and used on the local roads of London.
  11. You got a link to one that would fit, I thought that the cowl panel was very close making fitting hard. I seem to remember buying a generic fully retractable telescopic antenna that you would push in flush to the mounting nut, but the underside that would hold the retracted telescopic elements was hitting off the cowl area, this I imagine was 8"-10" inches underside of the fender. similar to this type http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Replacement-AM-FM-Car-Stereo-Radio-Antenna-Aerial-Telescopic-Chrome-/361643976195?hash=item5433a92603:g:wEMAAOSwWnFWBCxs&vxp=mtr
  12. Nice car, never seen triple gauges below the heater controls and trans ashtray holder, must be aftermarket I'd love to find the kit to do just that.
  13. As above on a 73 mustang the original antenna is Hugh and does not contract all the way. I looked and there is hardly any space to put an electric antenna motor especially if you try to use the correct location. Is or was there ever a stumpy sized power antenna that would fit in the original location, or should I just bite the bullet and fit one in the rear quarter and weld up the fender hole.
  14. I have a convertible, it actually the retractor for the front seats I'm interested in, its bolted to the inner rocker and you pull the belt out of the plastic covered retractor over your lap to attach the other part of the lapbelt that is attached to the trans tunnel. I've searched through all the 71/3 gallery photos on here and there are only 2 photos that sort of show the bolt fixing location but detail is not great, it looks as though the retractor lies or pivots on it side with a torx bolt, I guess so a rear seat passenger can enter the car without tripping over the seatbelt retractor. With the door closed and viewed from inside where would that bolt hole align with the closed door panel, ie 2"3"4"5" from the edge of the closed door, ie draw a vertical line down to the rocker to the bolt hole location of the seatbelt retractor. This parts location on the inner rocker, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-73-Ford-Mustang-Original-Front-Seat-Belt-Retractor-Assemblies-1-pr-/152132224216
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