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uk1973

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Everything posted by uk1973

  1. I'm in the process of rebuilding a variable ratio box code SPA AF, on inspection the box is good with minimal wear except for the 24 recirculating balls, they are pitted and lost there chrome finish due to water ingress probably I'm finding it hard to tell the chrome from the black balls, I've been searching this thread regarding ball diameters it seems that 0.28125 or 9/32 is the standard size, the black balls i think are .28141 from reading this thread. I did a Google on .28141 and found a Cadillac 1963 power steering pdf, below is a snip from it. the full pdf is from here https://4door.com/manuals/cadillac/1963/1963_Cadillac_Manual/05%20-Power%20Steering.pdf You would think they would offer the dimensions of both colours? Regarding the image above under NOTE, my rack piston only say 282 no other markings, do you think that this means standard size 7 balls. what is the type/hardness for these when buying replacements? Are the black balls the same material or are they any different, I'm in the UK, i can get hold of the 9/32 0.28125 easily enough but the .28141 are much harder to come by .28141 seems to equate as a fraction 28141/100000 that's a whole different level of ball size. I'll try to measure them but I feel my cheap ebay digital verniers are not going to be accurate enough.
  2. Steve, thanks regarding "Ford Basic Numbering" when searching those numbers I was noting that the end letters were changing and some searches were referencing 68/69/70's and yea I came to the conclusion that it was a base number with revisions. Luckily for me the DOAZ-6A664-C hose is available from one of the UK suppliers approx £23~ which makes it better to get here what with post and import duties to London, I do know from this site Don at Ohio Mustang Supply is the go-to guy with 71-3 mustangs. When I get a big order together he is top of my list. :) John
  3. David thanks for your reply, looking at your pics for the 351 the connection on the rear are different from mine; mine has the steel line as kindly provided in the image by Steve. The image of the Ford setup really does help, confusing to look at at first glance because the illustration is looking from the rear of the engine facing to the front. With the Ford part numbers I can see that #6a664 equates to 351c http://www.cjponyparts.com/pcv-carburetor-hose-351c-1970-1973/p/PCVH4/ if that is the correct hose I will buy. Hose #6853 is just a straight piece to the Elbow #6767 equates to https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=6767&parent=1&year=0 Grommet #6a892 equates to https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_grommet_pcv_valve_c8sz_6a892_a-105598-397.html The other parts I have already. Thanks all :) I think I have enough information to fix it up correctly. Edit just noticed on Steve's engine pics I'm also missing the vapour cannister hose, do we have a part # for that?
  4. Hi, I have a 73 302w convertible, with original air cleaner. I'm trying to find out what hoses connect to the rockers covers. I can find only for 351c when I do google mustang searches. Standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay on the right rocker cover bank the oil filler twist off cap and check valve is at the front nearest to the radiator what is the hose from that to the air cleaner, same for the PCV valve on the left hand rear rocker cover. Any help part numbers or photos of an original 302 air cleaner setup would be very much appreciated as most pics or info mostly come up about the 351c. I did see a post about 302w hoses on this site with regards to pep boys Part #:46032 ¦ SKU: 328108 its not available and further searches comes up for a Chrysler Ram. John
  5. I use oven cleaner on cast iron heads, works a treat on removing carbon and oil, the type I use is based on Sodium Hydroxide and the kit include large plastic bags which are normally used for cleaning the oven racks, you brush paste on the cleaner seal the bag and leave for a day or so. I just swap the oven racks for Cylinder Heads normally standing them on their ends and paste the gloop on and tie the bags off, leave for a few days occasionally opening the bag and re-slopping the oven gloop that has collected at the bottom of the bag back over the heads with a cheap paint brush and reseal. When happy I just take them out and hose or jet wash with detergent, cleans them like brand new. Be careful to wear gloves as it burns skin, (similar to good paint stripper) also dry the heads quickly to prevent flash rust, or lightly oil with cheap penetrating oil 3in1. In the UK, I use Ovenpride http://www.ovenpride.com which I buy in the cheap Pound Stores for err a £pound. I'm sure you have the same or similar in the US. Don't use on Aluminium though.
  6. Thanks for all the info and the pic from rpxr400 which really helped, I tried looking at Don's web picture but detail was too hard to discern. I know Don 'Ohio Mustang Supply' is a big supporter of 71/3 from reading this forum and it's really good to know that someone is starting to deal with parts for this marque. Don, I will order from you when the time comes for me to swapout, oh and get bigger pics my eyes ain't what they used to be. ;)
  7. Not in a hurry and thanks for the offer. This is more a project for next year, looking at the NPD link none of those screw apart at the base, the power option one looks similar to the generics available on ebay uk for £20-30, I think the method to fit the power option involves removing the fender. I quite like the idea of the standard whip antenna that unscrews at the base as apparently available on fox bodies. I seem to remember a few years ago seeing them for sale may have been on 'west coast classic cougar' but don't see them now. Any link to screw off rectangular base whip antenna appreciated. Edit, may be this is the Fox body antenna I need http://www.cjponyparts.com/bright-finish-antenna-kit-1979-1993/p/ANT9D/ doesn't mention about unscrewing at the base though, if it does it would do just fine.
  8. I don't mind having a fixed antenna, as long as it can be removed at the base, just leaving the fixing plate on the fender, I have a standard repro 73 antenna that telescopes down but it still sticks approx 12" out of the fender, if it unscrewed at the base I'd be happy. Are Fox body mustangs fixed antenna removable at the base? I'm not familiar with fox bodies, if so that would be the easiest option for me; still I'd love to have a power antenna in the fender.
  9. A good idea, wouldn't work on London streets, that antenna would be like a red rag to a bull popping through the cover, kids or for that matter adults would bend or rip it off in no time.
  10. 25 year ago, I remember as if it was yesterday ;) Good idea with doing a cardboard template, I'll most likely do that. I have the original long antenna but I'm going to be parking my car outside on the streets of London and will use a car cover and the Antenna is a problem in that respect, I did try those internal windscreen aerials but it was worst than useless. There are an increasing amount of classic cars parked and used on the local roads of London.
  11. You got a link to one that would fit, I thought that the cowl panel was very close making fitting hard. I seem to remember buying a generic fully retractable telescopic antenna that you would push in flush to the mounting nut, but the underside that would hold the retracted telescopic elements was hitting off the cowl area, this I imagine was 8"-10" inches underside of the fender. similar to this type http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Replacement-AM-FM-Car-Stereo-Radio-Antenna-Aerial-Telescopic-Chrome-/361643976195?hash=item5433a92603:g:wEMAAOSwWnFWBCxs&vxp=mtr
  12. Nice car, never seen triple gauges below the heater controls and trans ashtray holder, must be aftermarket I'd love to find the kit to do just that.
  13. As above on a 73 mustang the original antenna is Hugh and does not contract all the way. I looked and there is hardly any space to put an electric antenna motor especially if you try to use the correct location. Is or was there ever a stumpy sized power antenna that would fit in the original location, or should I just bite the bullet and fit one in the rear quarter and weld up the fender hole.
  14. I have a convertible, it actually the retractor for the front seats I'm interested in, its bolted to the inner rocker and you pull the belt out of the plastic covered retractor over your lap to attach the other part of the lapbelt that is attached to the trans tunnel. I've searched through all the 71/3 gallery photos on here and there are only 2 photos that sort of show the bolt fixing location but detail is not great, it looks as though the retractor lies or pivots on it side with a torx bolt, I guess so a rear seat passenger can enter the car without tripping over the seatbelt retractor. With the door closed and viewed from inside where would that bolt hole align with the closed door panel, ie 2"3"4"5" from the edge of the closed door, ie draw a vertical line down to the rocker to the bolt hole location of the seatbelt retractor. This parts location on the inner rocker, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-73-Ford-Mustang-Original-Front-Seat-Belt-Retractor-Assemblies-1-pr-/152132224216
  15. Bingo!!! Thanks Jeff, that is indeed the part I'm missing, seems like the black plastic bit I've got is not original. I'll see if I can get one posted to the UK, failing that I should be able to weld and file a washer into that shape. Pegleg, just done a recheck on your original link, if I input in the search box C7SZ-17B73 at http://www.american-mustang.com I do get the washer as shown above. You were right also :)
  16. Thanks, tried both part no's in mustanghouseparts, one is for a 1970 round bezel which looks similar but the plate is for a 69 and not similar or relevant for a 71/3. I expect the plate should be similar to a round flat washer with maybe a locking tab or flat to stop the control knob from turning. John
  17. Bump. I'd like to know also, I have a 73 vert and original 73 retractors but they seem too close to the rear of the front seat and don't seem to fit; should the retractor fit upright or sideways? I suspect my car has the hole for fitting to the inner rocker in the incorrect position. Any measurements to that bolt hole location welcome, or measurements or really good view of seatbelt retractor location.
  18. I have a 73 vert, it was missing the original mirrors, I have now have original oem 73 mirrors, I'm having a problem fitting the remote control fitting to the door, I have new Ford approved door cards (plastic backs). How is the remote switch/knob held to the door card? the remote mirror door card hole does not align with any holes on the inner door metal. I have the chrome screw-on bezel that screws onto the control knob threads and a black round plastic spacer which has a slight lip on the outer edge and is slightly bigger that the screw threads, this I assume goes on the door card outer and the chrome bezel screws on and squishes up to it and that black plastic spacer is used to prevent the chrome bezel damaging the outer door card face. But should there be a retaining clip /locking ring that goes behind the door card as without anything on the rear the control switch will just pull through the door card. My Original 73 workshop manuals (Electrical Volume 3, page 35-50-02) are not very clear it shows two parts the chrome bezel nut-17B732 and plate 17B733. It seems that I may be missing that plate and the plastic piece I have is not actually the correct part. Anyone have a picture of the control switch fittings my googling is failing to bring a positive view of that area, or confirm that the plastic part I have is not correct, if so anyone know where I can get the locking plate 17b733.
  19. Edit, link now back up they are readily available demo pdfs, with many pages missing, some pdfs are more complete than others.
  20. Having trouble with backup lamps, I was searching out wiring diags, I have the 73 as per this site, but with a lot of googling, I came across this- http://www.forelpublishing.com/demo/jrwells/Demo10023.pdf There are others by changing the last 2 digits 23 =73 never seen these before looks like Ford training manuals, loads of info about connectors, simplified wiring and more. John
  21. Just realised that I may have posted this thread in the wrong place, just noticed the 'Electronics, Security, Audio Systems' sub-forum, maybe the Mods can move it if they so wish. Hey ::new:: :D
  22. Hi sorry to hear your having woes too, I found the only easy way to reconnect the cluster to the pigtail was to remove the dash pad, its only approx 10 screws to take that off, you can then get your hand in from top and sort of see what you are doing, once its at the right angle and right way around it clips in fairly easily and is snug, you will know when its home. But! you have another problem with the pcb tracks folding or coming away from the plastic circuit film, this was what had orginaly happened to me, I removed the PCB and glued the tracks back down with industrial superglue, they did stick but left a clear film of glue over the copper tracks, this caused loads of problems with poor connections, I cleaned all the copper tracks with emery paper, including all the bulb holder connections. This ultimately failed in my instance as I was taking cluster in and out the tracks broke away became brittle and the plastic started to delaminate from the copper, I was fighting a losing battle. I have since found out that some recommend epoxy glue. I looked into getting a new PCB, many stock them, I spent many a night trying to find the best deal, very important to get costs down when in the UK, in the end Johns Mustang of Dallas were doing a deal for only $49 which I bought and the quality is excellent. I've just checked Johns mustang of Dallas but looks like out of stock and price now $80, I did have another dealer with the lower price offer and I've gone back over my browsing history, and good news they can still be had for $49 from http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-printed-circuit-board-with-tachometer-71-73.html for that money I'd replace and take consolation that this will get rid of most of your dash gremlins. John Thanks for confirming Don, I'm slowly getting there :D
  23. Don thanks, good you asked about the brake light, as that was going to form part of the next question, well the answer is no it does not come on when cranking, this could still be a switch or wiring problem to the proportioning valve, as the wire plug was disconnected, I did reconnect but the light didn't come on for the brakes on cranking, I know all dash lights are good they are all new LEDs on a new printed circuit board, it was not as important as the temp light because I know many disconnect the brake switch if the proportioning valve has moved and not been recentralised. I did become curious about it when I left the lock-up, as apparently you can have an e-brake switch, I checked and could not find a switch on the e-brake. My brain is frazzled looking at wiring diagrams, what I've done below is copy the 73 switch wiring and 72 switch wiring from the wiring pdf's and merged into a single picture. Can anyone tell if those two switches are the same for temp brake prove out? as said, I have an early 73 and the pn on the original switch I replaced has a 72 p/n and RockAuto.com show two different p/n for 72 and 73 mustangs, I bought the 73 switch p/n, maybe I need the 72 switch... John Had 30 mins at lock-up on Monday, turned ignition key and the oil /alt come on when at the 'on' position, I kept slowly turning the key until it was under spring-back pressure as key goes into the 'start run' area to engage starter, the temp light lit brightly and stayed lit then stayed lit when the starter was throwing, this is good and as you guys have said it's how it should work :) to prove Temp idiot light would come on I grounded the Temp wire off the engine block and the Temp light came on, proving it works as you say in the 'on' position. case closed!! The Brake idiot light never lit up and I made a loop of wire for the brake pigtail twin connector, these are the two pink/white wires but light never came on, had to call quits for the rest of the day. Looking at the wiring for the brake connection at the dual brake warning switch that loop I made may also needed to be grounded I didn't try that and will the next time I pop up. The only other problem that it could be the Led is in the incorrect way as I've had the dash in and out many times and the Brake idiot light was least of my problems. I'm getting there. Also looks like 72/73 switches are the same just different p/n. John
  24. Don thanks, good you asked about the brake light, as that was going to form part of the next question, well the answer is no it does not come on when cranking, this could still be a switch or wiring problem to the proportioning valve, as the wire plug was disconnected, I did reconnect but the light didn't come on for the brakes on cranking, I know all dash lights are good they are all new LEDs on a new printed circuit board, it was not as important as the temp light because I know many disconnect the brake switch if the proportioning valve has moved and not been recentralised. I did become curious about it when I left the lock-up, as apparently you can have an e-brake switch, I checked and could not find a switch on the e-brake. My brain is frazzled looking at wiring diagrams, what I've done below is copy the 73 switch wiring and 72 switch wiring from the wiring pdf's and merged into a single picture. Can anyone tell if those two switches are the same for temp brake prove out? as said, I have an early 73 and the pn on the original switch I replaced has a 72 p/n and RockAuto.com show two different p/n for 72 and 73 mustangs, I bought the 73 switch p/n, maybe I need the 72 switch... John
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