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Everything posted by PADave

  1. Found the VIN in another add. This says car is original Mint Green. If so, it's a custom order. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1015706/1972-ford-mustang-mach-1-fastback-for-sale-in-tempe-arizona-85283
  2. You sure about that? Originally, the rockers were painted black. The paint wrapped into the door jam a bit and covered the bottom of the door sill as well. The small stripe above it was a decal but it wasn't on the decor group, only on the side-striped cars. The decor group had a thin molding along the edge of the paint (10pcs).
  3. That's for 69-70 Cougar. My friend has a 70 XR7. Not sure what 69-70 mustangs had.
  4. The exterior decor group came with Lower body side paint with chrome molding. Honeycomb grille and sportlamps. Color-keyed front bumper. Color-keyed hood and fender moldings. Flat brushed-aluminum hub caps with trim rings. The molding is low on the car separating the 2 tone.
  5. Thanks all, good info. Looking at the picture Mister 4x4 posted, the pieces might slide left or right and come off. I will dig into it. I have a new set to put back on but want to save and polish the old ones, they are not too bad.
  6. I did a search but didn't see anything. What is the safest method to remove the 10 piece decor group molding pieces? A picture of the clips looks like they are spring loaded? Thanks
  7. Thanks for checking Thanks but looking for one in decent shape.
  8. It was always my understanding that competition suspension package is heavy duty springs and shocks. ...and the staggered shocks and sway bar was just a standard configuration for 4V cars. I read a lot, doesn't mean it's true :-)
  9. Yes, there is a single wire going to both retractors and one going to the pressure switch on passenger seat. My car was built 4/72 in Dearborn.
  10. NO LONGER NEEDED, THANKS I am looking for a drivers side (LH) interior a pillar trim piece for a fastback. Color not that important. Please let me know if you have an extra one I could buy. Picture below for reference. I read many reviews on the re-pops that say they don't fit at the bottom. Thanks!
  11. Thank you for the tips, very helpful. I will dig into it next weekend.
  12. I'm freshening up my 72. One of the things I always wanted to do was get the seat belt warning system working as it did from factory. The previous owner removed the buzzer and the light was broken. So, I got a new seat belt light and buzzer. I started the car with seat belt off. Put it in gear and the light and buzzer comes on, perfect! I latched the drivers seat belt and it stays on :chin: Nobody was in the passenger seat but I latched that one just in case. Still buzzzzz. Has anyone diagnosed this type of problem? I guess I should start by looking in the seat belt retractor? Thanks
  13. Very nice car if the rest looks like the pictures. Book value for "very good" is 30-45k, with 45 being pristine original. Take off of that 20-30% for non-numbers matching, although it is a correct cleveland. Take off more if the car wasn't black originally. 73 Q code did not come with ram air, just an FYI. How much is it worth? Whatever someone is willing to pay :-) If you just want a good looking cruiser, you can find a cheaper car in my opinion.
  14. You might have to take a dremel tool or similar and grind a nice groove in it almost all the way to the threads, then split it with a chisel.
  15. Put in a new Custom Autosound USA-630 II stereo and a dual voice speaker in the dash. Wired up Kenwood KFC-6965S 6x9s in the package tray. Sounds good, better than expected. Soon be putting carpet in.
  16. Never knew there was anything supposed to be there, mines missing. Thanks for post
  17. That chrome would be tough to fix. New ones are available for 200 bucks or so. Check on CJ Pony Parts, probably a picture.
  18. Hmm, maybe a typo. Or "Un-restored...all original Car has: -351 Windsor motor (stock)"
  19. That appears to be Ivy Glow, code 4C. If not, it's close. Pictures can be deceiving though.
  20. I just did mine without removing the glass. It makes for a longer process, but worked for me. Some say it's easier to pull the glass. You can catch a thin glue point all around and use a strong duct tape to hold it in place overnight. Then, when that glue dries, cut it to exact fit and glue the rest. If you have the rear tension hooks installed, all of the slack is pulled to the front with the exception of the last rear section. Here's how I did it. Number the spreaders when removing old headliner to put back in original position. Put the spreaders in the new headliner and center them. Trim the spreader loops on each side with scissors about 1" shorter than the spreaders. Mark the center of the headliner front and back. Put all the screws in the roof for visors, dome light, coat hooks etc. so it's easy to find them when done. Put headliner in with the spreaders, front and back will be hanging. Trim the front of headliner so about 2" of it is on the glass. Starting at the front with a 10" section in the middle, pull very tight and mark the underside of the headliner where it touches the metal. Put the glue on the metal and headliner. Place a strip of strong duct tape across the edge of the headliner. Pull tight and tape to windshield, the glue points should be touching. Now work to both sides doing the same thing, 10" sections at a time. When the front was done, I let the glue dry overnight. Trim the headliner front so it goes to the flat windshield channel. Glue the rest of the edge all of the way across very good. At this point, front to back is mostly tight because of the tension hooks in back, only one flap is loose. Now I started on the sides working my way back to the b pillar gluing where the metal touches the liner when pulled tight. Pull evenly to get out any wrinkles. You can use strong spring clamps on the sides clamping to the thin channel. Let sides dry overnight. Trim sides to exact fit and glue the rest of the way to the edge where you clamped it. By the sail panel areas on each side, pull down and hook for a smooth fit. Now all you have is the back window and one loose flap. Not much tension is needed because you are only pulling on one section. Do just like the front, catching a glue point and using duct tape to hold it. The difference in the back is you have to be very precise when trimming it for final gluing so it reaches the rubber window seal. This edge is not covered unless you pull the glass and put it under the seal. That's how I did it and it looks good. Some may disagree with the method because it takes a couple days, but worked for me.
  21. Ah, sorry about that, I got mine several years ago. I think they are repros, someone should have the tooling, they could make some money.
  22. You can get a new set for $389. http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=20879KIT+01 I've never seen used ones for sale. Maybe someone has some in a parts box. Good Luck
  23. No logo just a design. That way they could put in different models without having different molds. The ones in the picture are exactly like the ones that came in my Mustang new. The ones in the back were just square with two narrow carpet inserts. If someone can come up with the brochure for the dealer options for 73 I know there is a picture in there. David Thanks I found a set of red ones on ebay. They might clean up for someone who needs red. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mid-to-Late-70s-Ford-Mercury-Lincoln-Floor-Mat-Set-Red I will have to keep an eye out for these
  24. Great information guys, thank you for the picture of the T Bird mats. What is the design in the rubber section, a ford logo or?
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