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Mesozoic

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Mesozoic last won the day on March 11 2014

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About Mesozoic

  • Rank
    I get my mail here
  • Birthday 04/29/1977

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang fastback restomod. Caged, stiffened, lowered, on 17" wheels with 4 wheel disc brakes and Bilstein dampers. PST polygraphite suspension kit w/Mustangs Plus springs. Custom SEFI-EDIS8 EEC-V injection based on '96 Crown Vic harness (CDAN4 strategy). 90mm induction, LMAF, 80mm Accufab TB, Edelbrock Victor intake, 42# injectors, fully ported RHS Pro Action 215 heads, long tube headers. '69 351W stroked to 408 using Scat 4340 crank, H-beam rods, SRP pistons. Comp Cams 284 Magnum hydraulic roller cam, Canton windage tray and main girdle w/blueprinted standard pressure oil pump. Serpentine conversion using late model 5.0 parts. Backed by a built 4R70W, FB Performance 3000 RPM triple-disc converter, custom alum driveshaft, stock Ford 9" w/3.50:1 billet LS.

Location

  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Region
    Southwest

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male
  1. Thanks all. The vehicle was insured with Grundy Worldwide collector insurance, so we'll see what they want to do and go from there. The agreed value is quite high at $40K, so I suspect they will probably want to repair it, but who knows. I noticed that NPD has frame rails listed too. I'll let my body man know about options presented in this thread, though.
  2. 23 years of ownership and finally, someone ran a red light and smoked my '71. Pretty extensive damage to the passenger rear quarter panel and related structures. Does anyone know if rear frame rails are reproduced? Who makes the best quality repro sheetmetal parts for these cars?
  3. Yeah, my primary feed line is -6AN along with the return. The vapor line looks like it's -4 or smaller. I'm running my vapor line to a late model Crown Vic canister controlled by the EEC-V purge solenoid.
  4. My vapor return is definitely not 3/8 tubing. My car is a '71 however, so perhaps the later years with additional emissions equipment had larger lines?
  5. I'm not sure I would use the fuel vapor line as the return, tempting as it may be. I don't think it's got the diameter you ideally want for a return system. That's what I was originally going to do to preserve the OEM look and it's metal tubing that I believe will last longer. The instructions clearly state not to use stainless tubing? I don't know why though. If you use hard lines and don't use a return system with a regulator you will see a hammering effect on hard lines when the pumps cycles. My system recommended the soft efi lines. Most pumps operate in PWM mod
  6. I run Hawk HPS pads in all of my Mustangs, very happy with their performance given my driving style.
  7. Definitely PTFE lined hose. The Summit stuff is cheap and high quality PTFE. If you don't run PTFE you'll eventually have fuel permeation through the hose and an odor to match. I used AN fittings throughout my system.
  8. If I hadn't done the 4R70W, I would've most certainly done a Tremec 3550 or TKO manual transmission. The overdrive gear is one of the best mods you can make to your old Mustang. Just need to make sure that your transmission selection can handle the power and torque! The sheetmetal blocking sounds like a very good plan. I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with. I recently taught myself how to design parts in Solidworks, which has made cutting metal on the waterjet infinitely simpler.
  9. I'd like to think that, but it appears to be factory to me. I'll post some pics of this thing in a day or so.
  10. What about vacuum hose schematics? I have Pro Products, Inc. '71 Mustang wiring diagram booklet that includes the vacuum diagram for the entire vehicle, but my car seems to have an additional vacuum line passing through the firewall. There's 2 vacuum lines that are routed through the firewall near the centerline of the car via the same sealing grommet. Then there's the single vacuum line that I found towards the passenger side, about 6" from the aforementioned grommet. No idea what this is for, but I've got it plugged for the moment.
  11. LOL, they're not THAT wide. They just sound wide because they've got the "3" in the 315s. Here's a shot with the 295s originally on 15s: Here's a shot with the 315s in 17": Not much of a difference.
  12. As far as wear and tear in the engine goes, the crosshatch in the cylinder bores and the microscopic pores in moly piston rings hold enough lubricant to prevent a dry start after sitting for years. If an engine is going to sit for years, however, I would definitely be using a good quality synthetic oil which has an almost infinite shelf life and excellent durability in a wide range of temperatures. I would certainly allow the starter motor to run the engine for a good 5-10 seconds (to get some oil flowing) before allowing it to start after sitting for a long time.
  13. My car is old. Very old. It was almost certainly not expected to have survived as long as it has and as a result, the interior rattles when rolling down a bumpy road. The suspension is sport/competition level stiff with custom valved Bilsteins, lowered, lower profile tires, and the chassis made stiffer with a fully welded rollcage tied into the frame, along with welded subframe connectors. Couple a stiff chassis with 500+ horsepower and you end up with a '71 Mustang that could really use some sound damping in a lot of areas. I think the doors are particularly bad for making noise - no
  14. I've run 295-50-15 in the back, but am currently running 315-35-17 and 245-45-17 in front. Both aforementioned tire sizes (in 17") are 25.68" tall, so a good match for height.
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