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Mesozoic

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Everything posted by Mesozoic

  1. Thanks all. The vehicle was insured with Grundy Worldwide collector insurance, so we'll see what they want to do and go from there. The agreed value is quite high at $40K, so I suspect they will probably want to repair it, but who knows. I noticed that NPD has frame rails listed too. I'll let my body man know about options presented in this thread, though.
  2. 23 years of ownership and finally, someone ran a red light and smoked my '71. Pretty extensive damage to the passenger rear quarter panel and related structures. Does anyone know if rear frame rails are reproduced? Who makes the best quality repro sheetmetal parts for these cars?
  3. Yeah, my primary feed line is -6AN along with the return. The vapor line looks like it's -4 or smaller. I'm running my vapor line to a late model Crown Vic canister controlled by the EEC-V purge solenoid.
  4. My vapor return is definitely not 3/8 tubing. My car is a '71 however, so perhaps the later years with additional emissions equipment had larger lines?
  5. I'm not sure I would use the fuel vapor line as the return, tempting as it may be. I don't think it's got the diameter you ideally want for a return system. That's what I was originally going to do to preserve the OEM look and it's metal tubing that I believe will last longer. The instructions clearly state not to use stainless tubing? I don't know why though. If you use hard lines and don't use a return system with a regulator you will see a hammering effect on hard lines when the pumps cycles. My system recommended the soft efi lines. Most pumps operate in PWM mode (Pulse Width Modulated) to reduce the loud pump noise with these systems. The PWM mode cycles the pump on/off to maintain fuel pressure so these surges affect the system operation with hard lines while the soft lines absorbs some of the surges. You can use the vapor return lines in our cars for the fuel return from a regulator and then the use of the hard line would be acceptable. In my case I used soft lines from the tank, a fuel regulator and the the vapor return line with no issues so far.
  6. I run Hawk HPS pads in all of my Mustangs, very happy with their performance given my driving style.
  7. Definitely PTFE lined hose. The Summit stuff is cheap and high quality PTFE. If you don't run PTFE you'll eventually have fuel permeation through the hose and an odor to match. I used AN fittings throughout my system.
  8. If I hadn't done the 4R70W, I would've most certainly done a Tremec 3550 or TKO manual transmission. The overdrive gear is one of the best mods you can make to your old Mustang. Just need to make sure that your transmission selection can handle the power and torque! The sheetmetal blocking sounds like a very good plan. I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with. I recently taught myself how to design parts in Solidworks, which has made cutting metal on the waterjet infinitely simpler.
  9. I'd like to think that, but it appears to be factory to me. I'll post some pics of this thing in a day or so.
  10. What about vacuum hose schematics? I have Pro Products, Inc. '71 Mustang wiring diagram booklet that includes the vacuum diagram for the entire vehicle, but my car seems to have an additional vacuum line passing through the firewall. There's 2 vacuum lines that are routed through the firewall near the centerline of the car via the same sealing grommet. Then there's the single vacuum line that I found towards the passenger side, about 6" from the aforementioned grommet. No idea what this is for, but I've got it plugged for the moment.
  11. LOL, they're not THAT wide. They just sound wide because they've got the "3" in the 315s. Here's a shot with the 295s originally on 15s: Here's a shot with the 315s in 17": Not much of a difference.
  12. As far as wear and tear in the engine goes, the crosshatch in the cylinder bores and the microscopic pores in moly piston rings hold enough lubricant to prevent a dry start after sitting for years. If an engine is going to sit for years, however, I would definitely be using a good quality synthetic oil which has an almost infinite shelf life and excellent durability in a wide range of temperatures. I would certainly allow the starter motor to run the engine for a good 5-10 seconds (to get some oil flowing) before allowing it to start after sitting for a long time.
  13. My car is old. Very old. It was almost certainly not expected to have survived as long as it has and as a result, the interior rattles when rolling down a bumpy road. The suspension is sport/competition level stiff with custom valved Bilsteins, lowered, lower profile tires, and the chassis made stiffer with a fully welded rollcage tied into the frame, along with welded subframe connectors. Couple a stiff chassis with 500+ horsepower and you end up with a '71 Mustang that could really use some sound damping in a lot of areas. I think the doors are particularly bad for making noise - not entirely sure why, but they are. The dash panel may also be somewhat culprit. On newer luxury vehicles I've taken apart I've noticed that there is ample use of thin rubber insulation between panels and their mounting interface. Would it make sense to add some to my Mustang in areas like the doors and the dash? What have others done to remedy all the noise and rattles in theirs?
  14. I've run 295-50-15 in the back, but am currently running 315-35-17 and 245-45-17 in front. Both aforementioned tire sizes (in 17") are 25.68" tall, so a good match for height.
  15. Clogged or simply pinched, it's a very small diameter tube that runs from the tank forward.
  16. Absolutely KISS principle. I'm not familiar with the NASCAR style props you've mentioned, so some pics would be useful. My hood is a US Body Source Dominator fiberglass unit, looks like the stock NACA hood but with a raised cowl. The hood is reinforced at the hinge and latch areas with internal steel. It's actually not a very good quality hood as over the years the paint is showing that the fiberglass is gassing, I would not recommend this to anyone. I'm sure it is lighter weight than the stock hood, but it can't be by much. In any case, the stock hinges are in use, but using springs I found on sale for a '69 Mustang with fiberglass hood... definitely not working.
  17. I picked up a 2000 Mountaineer for family duties + light offroad use (compared to my Bronco) and discovered that it's got hood struts as well. They're also very compact. I think the mounting points for a struts need to be made on the existing hinge and then measuring the required length open and closed would do the trick. I'm just not really sure where I would mount a strut on the stock hinge.
  18. Not sure if originality is a concern, but I ended up using a canister from a '96 Crown Vic. It's nice and compact, fits well in the stock engine bay.
  19. Small block Ford engine family models run best closer to 200*F, so a Motorcraft 192*F thermostat is usually best. This is what is run in all late model EFI small block Fords, including 302 and 351s. I live in Arizona where the summer temperatures exceed 110*F and it's fine, even being leaned out during cruise with factory Ford EFI retrofitted.
  20. I couldn't do that... for that price I could fabricate my fuel system mounting points using billet 6061-T6. Might be a good solution for someone who is unable to design and fab their own system.
  21. There's many ways to achieve this, the simplest being an external high pressure pump, such as a Walbro GSLxxx model with a pre-filter and post-filter feeding a regulator up front. A return line will need to be added, for which you can modify the stock sending unit and add a 3/8" port by hand, either by brazing, or some other creative form. If you're very creative you can fabricate a new one. Contrary to popular belief, an external high pressure pump as suggested above works remarkably well and reliably. In my own case, I welded a sump to my stock tank and added AN ports for feed and return. A better solution would be to simply purchase a high performance tank from Glenn's Performance: http://www.glennsperformance.com/index.php?cPath=78
  22. Ummm, this is slightly incriminating, but worth mentioning. Regardless of what the drag coefficient of a '71-73 Mustang actually is, I logged 172 mph on a local road somewhere in southern Arizona. I was not alone either, my friend and I were both tuning our 4R70W transmissions, particularly the overdrive gear and lockup behavior in 4th gear. I was actually shocked! There was plenty more gear and power left to go, but that was as far as I pushed it in order to tune my lockup converter scheduling in 4th gear. I was particularly surprised that I was able to out-accelerate my friend's Falcon with a turbocharged 302, similar weight. Speeds were recorded using an onboard Garmin GPS unit since tuning requires better accuracy than my stock speedo. As one of my co-workers has said before, it's possible to make absolutely anything fly, regardless of how bad the aero is on it (I work at an aircraft design and development firm).
  23. So I finally got my car to my friend's shop and it looks like the 4.0" overall length Moser yoke I ordered is not correct for my rear axle. The yoke that's in there is 5.0" long. So... looking around for a 1310-series 5.0" yoke for my Ford 9" and not finding much. Perhaps this is the time I should be looking at upgrading to a companion flange. Only issues are: The driveshaft is aluminum, so the flange yoke for it would need to be compatible in terms of welding. There's not many options for the companion flange itself, either Currie (overkill), Quick Performance (overkill), or a Toyota flange (much more affordable). Does running a Toyota flange on their Ford 9" make anyone's skin crawl? I'd have to deal with a metric fastener and bolt pattern on the flange yoke too.
  24. If I have another rear u-joint failure I'm certainly going to upgrade to either a Versailles companion flange or the Currie equivalent.
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