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  • My Car
    1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C 2v


  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Region
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  1. I cannot find a place that has a rotisserie (in Tucson, AZ if anyone knows of one) so right now all I can have blasted is the body and interior that are easy to get to when I wheel it into a blast room. What should I do about the underside? I can't really see any rust or bubbles underneath, but there are areas I cannot see. Am I better off waiting and trying to find a place that can put it on the rotisserie or move forward and then after paint, lift the car and blast on my own? Thanks,
  2. I recently bought a Felpro 1240 kit to redo my intake gaskets (vac leak) and I was wondering what the O-ring is for. What is it for? Are there any good instructions as to how to replace these. I know the basics: scrap off old sealant, place new ones one with gasket sealant, 1/4 inch bead of copper rtv on front and back of engine rather than the cork endppieces, let sit overnight. But want to make sure that I do it right this time. Thanks,
  3. How much do you want for it? I am trying to piece together a harness and will probably spend the time recreating a new one based on the old one.
  4. From time to time, wiring harnesses are sold on ebay, I would recommend getting that since it is just the engine compartment you need (correct?). I used a Kwik Wire harness for $250. It went in easy, but to do it right, you really need to plan well and remove the dash and everything. I re-wired my 73, was very fraustrated, but learned a great deal about how everything was wired and connected. When I strip everything out and get the car blasted and painted, I plan on rewiring it again, in a more professional clean looking manner. Also, save all your connectors, to my knowledge, there are no aftermarket providers for those plasic connects or the 90 degree angle connects (temp, oil, and solenoid). If you just want the hood section, ebay or craigslist for an original. If you are going to rewire your car, shop around, you can get just as good generic harnesses for less than painless.
  5. Thanks for the reply. Just to make sure I am correct, when adjusting the vacuum: 1. Let car get to operating temp 2. Cap ported vacuum 3. Plug into manifold vac outlet on carb 4. Adjust idle screws (simultaneously) until I get max vac. I was worried that stall converter might be too much, the guy I bought the car from had tried to turn it into a dragger and gave up it looks like.
  6. So I finally had everything read to take the car mustang out after the engine rebuild and rewiring. But I noticed a couple issues and need some help. 1. My intake vac is at 15 inches, but I was told this could be normal with a stage-1 cam (I don't have specs available right now). Its steady and sometimes pulses + or - 0.5 (I have not checked acceleration/deceleration) (@~800 rpm park idle) 2. When i go from park idle (800 rpm) to gear (drive or reverse) my rpms drop to about 400. Could this be timing or vacuum leak? 3. When I was driving, I get a noise from (eeerrrrrrr) from the tranny I think and it does not seem to want to shift out. I will be at 2000 rpm and I just dont get much acceleration. The guy I bought it from said it has a 3500 stall converter and shift kit, so could I just not be hitting it hard enough? Any tips would help, this is my first rebuild and first car with a carb I have ever worked on.
  7. Whew, awesome. The engine is fairly new rebuild and I am still working out some issues with the vacuum, but good to know that this is nothing to worry about. Thanks y'all
  8. I have a 351C 2v, edlebrock intake with a 1406 Edlebrock carb. When I rev the engine, I notice droplets/light spray coming out the exhaust. There is no smoke. Could I be running rich or is this just condensation? Any help on this would be great, Thanks,
  9. What engine and intake do you have? I replaced mine on my 351C 2v, you can get it at NAPA. I have read mixed reviews on them and it seems that it is used choice if you have an aftermarket intake.
  10. Hi y'all, Just moved down to Tucson from Boston with a 1973 Mach 1 that I am rebuilding. The guy i bought it from tried to turn it into a drag racer and failed. It is not in horrible shape, but needs work. 351C 2v (fresh rebuild) Edlebrock Performer intake and 1406 4 barrel carb Long pip exhaust manifold/headers FMX transmission (minus the neutral safety) I have rewired... correction... attempted to rewire the car, but I am chalking it up to a learning moment. It runs and works, but I will definitely go through and rewire again (with a new kit) once I get down to the frame and blast everything. If anyone knows a media blaster in the Tucson area and a body shop (welding/patch work) or can help me do it myself, that would be much appreciated.
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