trainey

I already have built a '70 M code, CC heads and mild cam, and newer AOD combo to go in it. SInce this is just an H code car, nothing really remarkable about it from options or anything else, I am fine letting the original go. I am building a restomod, not a concourse correct. I appreciate the sentiment though!

Update: Motor is spoken for! Update: Trans is sold! I have the H code driveline out of my 72 that is for sale. Running 2V engine, FMX trans. I believe the mileage to be about 80k original, based on the odometer, and the old title I have. Anyway the engine runs very well, as far as I know it has never been opened up, it does smoke sometimes on startup, I suspect the valve seals are just old. Ram Air components are not for sale, but I have the original air cleaner, I will keep all of the brackets on the front for my new motor. Has a new waterpump, and starter. I am located in Kennesaw, GA. Local pickup. $500 or best offer. I also have a set of nearly new Hedman 2V headers that can go with it for an extra $150

I have them on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/332613278125?ul_noapp=true

There's a lot of conflicting information about the combustion chamber sizes. I have one book that says all closed chamber heads are 62.8cc (nominal and except Boss) on one page. The previous page says the '70s are 62.8cc and all '71s are 66.1. My '71 Ford shop manual says 64.6 to 67.6cc for the closed chamber heads. However, Wolverine measured a set of DOAE-G heads, a few years ago, and came up with 68cc. The '70 compression ratio is shown as 11.0:1, '71 as 10.7:1. The Boss uses pop-up pistons to get 11.7:1. So, your recommendation of cc'ing the heads, if you can't get a set with the same casting numbers, is right on. EDIT: Even this technical data referred to by 351C.net ( http://351c.net/board/index.php?/forum/12-engine-identification-id-codes-cj-boss-r-302c-etc/ ) says that '70s and '71s have the same size, 62.8cc: http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine3.html If anyone besides Wolverine has cc'ed their 4V heads it would be great if you would share the results with us. Here is what my shop said about my CC heads: Customer: Tracy Cylinder Head: iron Ford 351C D1AE Intake/ EXH valve size:stock 2.19/1.71 Chamber 64.0 CC

I had posted these some time ago, I have no idea if they would work, but maybe worth checking out... http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-aussie-trunk-corner-repair-panels

The bogus "special" that keeps on giving...

Good Luck! from just up the road in Kennesaw.

Here is a Mustang Monthly Article on the subject... http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mump-0907-how-to-install-ram-air-1973-mustang/

Thats awesome! I want to ride the SW states. 5 yrs ago I did a ride from Atlanta GA to Banff Canada and back (6400 mi) in 15 days, then this past July Atlanta Ga to Nova Scotia and back (5400mi) in about 17days. Love long trips, but you need a touring bike to be comfortable for sure!

I had the float come off of a brand new sender once, shortly after installation...I had the same symptoms

Beautiful! I leave on Sunday for a 3 week trek that leaves from Kennesaw, to Ramsey NJ for a few days, then up through Maine to Nova Scotia. Nothing like touring on a bike!

Other mid-70's cars like the Elite III had similar mirrors with a cable type adjuster for the passenger mirror that was located on the dash as I recall, I wonder if one of those could be adapted?

Here is my latest ride, 2012 HD Roadglide Ultra. Getting ready to do a trip to Nova Scotia in 3 weeks! [/img]

I had one similar, but with the 302. It was badly under powered so your 351 should be much better. It was a comfy ride, but it could have used rear air, I ran a fan on a power inverter to help cool the back. We called ours the B.A.V. (Big A$$ Van) LOL

I also replaced the old voltage regulator with a new Solid State one, and that was the final piece that fixed any flicker in the lights. I had already done LEDS, alternator, headlight relays.