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Galucha

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Galucha last won the day on June 9 2020

Galucha had the most liked content!

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About Galucha

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Coupe 302

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  • Location
    Chattanooga, TN
  • Region
    Southeast

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    Undisclosed

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  1. I might still have it. Need to go digging through some boxes in the shop, but I'll find out for you.
  2. Very true. I couldn't find much info on this specific sway bar's material other than the manufacturer saying it's a "high carbon steel with forged ends", so that leads me to believe it's some proprietary blend of 11 herbs & spices.
  3. StreetorTrack's full coilover conversion.
  4. I'm using scott drake's sway bar. Normally I try to avoid their products, but this one seems to be decent quality. I was leaning towards an Addco sway bar, but my coilover manufacturer recommended scott drake's bar due to potential clearance issues with other brands. Hopefully the alignment gets you some more clearance. I would imagine the caster angle would have a pretty big impact on it. I'm also running about a 1 inch drop vs stock ride height.
  5. So the 1 1/8" front sway bar I ordered came in yesterday, and after checking clearance between it and the strut rod, I can say it's tight! But fortunately no binding issues. I tested the clearance at several compression levels throughout the suspension travel, and the closest it came was 1/4" from the strut rod. Took the car for an hour long test drive through the mountains and it was phenomenal. Virtually no body roll and incredible grip, but I could feel that my BFG radials were about at their limit, so it's probably time to start looking for some higher performance wheels &
  6. At least I know what mine is worth lol
  7. Slightly related, but is anyone running their carb's electric choke off of the white connector w/ red/yellow wires? I'm thinking it may be a cleaner setup than how I'm running my electric choke wire now straight off of the fuse block.
  8. Not a bad deal for $1,750! If only...
  9. I've had good luck with both cometic's gaskets and the copper crush style others have mentioned. If there's anything to avoid, I'd say it's the cheaper gaskets that have the fiber material embedded. They will seal fine the first time, but have a tendency to get brittle and leave material stuck to the heads/header when you take them off.
  10. Gone! ______________________ Upgraded to a coilover suspension setup, so I no longer need these parts. Tie rod ends/sleeves were bought from Ohio Mustang Supply and only have about 3,000 miles on them. Strut rods are OE and have relatively new (Scott Drake?) rubber bushings. Shock tower caps are OE. Just pay shipping from Chattanooga Tennessee.
  11. Funny, I had the exact same experience with my front disc brakes. None of the 71-73 Mustang brake parts fit. I didn't know granada swaps were a common upgrade until much later. Nowadays it's hard to find the spindles to do that swap though, so it ends up being fairly expensive. Probably for the better though, since there are better more modern kits on the market now.
  12. I've heard a lot of opinions on how much power you're missing out on by using a dual plane vs a single plane intake for EFI. The consensus is usually that the single plane is better suited in general for EFI, but I've never seen a direct comparison that shows just how big the power difference is. I've heard the biggest issue issue with running a dual plane with Holley EFI is not actually the runner design, but the intake plenum divider. With a plenum divider like the one of the Performer intake, the MAP sensor is only measuring from one bank of the engine, which will ultimately cause issu
  13. So I'm working my way back on the car's suspension. I just finished installing StreetorTrack's front coilover conversion system with their 1 1/8" sway bar, now I'm looking at doing the 3 link conversion they offer. Right now I have a pretty much stock 8 inch open rear end, and while SoT's 3 link kit works with an 8 inch, it involves welding some brackets to the housing. So if I leave the 8 inch in, I'm committing to keeping it on the car. My question is, are the weight savings and cost of upgrading the 8 inch worth it versus swapping in a 9 inch, or even an explorer 8.8? From what
  14. I definitely wish I had known that when I bought my performer intake. Basically the only reason you would ever run a performer is if hood clearance was an issue (but at that point why not just use a stock intake?). Here's the dyno graph from that episode of engine masters mentioned above that compares the performer vs performer RPM.
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