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Galucha last won the day on June 9

Galucha had the most liked content!

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About Galucha

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Coupe 302


  • Location
    Chattanooga, TN
  • Region

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  1. If you want the absolute best "headache-free" combo, I'd suggest either a vacuum secondary Holley 4160 or Edelbrock AVS2 carb (cfm will depend on your engine) paired with an MSD ready to run billet distributor - all of the perks of having an MSD ignition, without the box. I'm more of a Holley guy, but the AVS2 carb does have annular boosters out of the box which can really help out with driveability.
  2. I did the 2 short brackets on the top for mine and it works pretty well.
  3. PO had installed an aftermarket AC system and butchered the temperature control lever, so I had to buy another unit. But otherwise the faceplate, knobs, and fan control lever can be salvaged. Just pay shipping.
  4. Can't go wrong with a 600 CFM Holley w/ vacuum secondaries then. When I bought mine, it ran great right out of the box.
  5. Running a 600cfm quick fuel brawler carb on my mild 302. I stepped up the primary discharge nozzle one size from the factory .029" to .031" and the throttle response feels perfect. I was running a standard Holley 600 CFM w/vacuum secondaries previously. It was a little bit more street friendly, but I enjoy having the extra control you get with mechanical secondaries. Comes a lot down to personal preference IMO.
  6. Might have been me. Pretty happy with the matte black.
  7. Galucha

    Crazy Odds

    So I bought a 1971 F100 last week. Seemed pretty well optioned (Ranger XLT trim) and a good candidate for restoration, plus it's the same year as my mustang. Well it didn't come with any documentation and the door tag has long since been gone, so I ran a Marti report to find out some of the history of it. Turns out that not only did it come from the Ford truck plant in Michigan (the mustang is a Dearborn car), but it was also produced on the SAME DAY as the mustang - November 20th, 1970. Thought that was a really cool coincidence.
  8. I saw that yesterday and thought about posting it here. Could have sworn 73s never had the hockey stick stripes, so I guess that just confirms it.
  9. From what I can tell it's 3/4". I'm thinking running it with a 1 1/8" front sway bar should keep things balanced.
  10. After much research on these forums, I settled on getting a redhead 12.7:1 steering box instead of going the rebuild route, and WOW what a difference. The steering feel is night and day difference compared to the old SPA-U box. Figured it was time since the old box had developed a pretty bad leak around the shaft seal and had about 2 inches of play at the wheel. https://i.imgur.com/Cwp5lPO.jpg[/img] You can see just how bad the leak was underneath. https://i.imgur.com/xicJY7k.jpg[/img] New vs old. I called redhead to order this box, but they didn't have any with the 12.7:1 gea
  11. I've found that using aircraft stripper to take off most of the paint then hitting the part with a wire wheel tends to work really well.
  12. In the never ending quest to make my car feel less "boaty" I'm looking at doing front/rear sway bar upgrades. Mine didn't come with the competition suspension, so if I go with a stock style sway bar I think I'll need to track down the correct mounting plates, but I saw this on TCP's website and it looks pretty tempting. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/arrm.html Can anyone comment on the quality/adjustability of these? And is it worth going this route over the stock style sway bar?
  13. $0.94 in Chattanooga last week. Suffice to say I'm driving the mustang a bit more lately. https://i.imgur.com/JC2KyVd.jpg[/img]
  14. That would be awesome to have. I have access to a 60" flat bed vinyl cutting plotter, and could potentially do a few runs if there is a CAD file available.
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