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Everything posted by Galucha

  1. Generally between $30-40 for the 12oz cans
  2. Ok fuel tank is back in! Took the opportunity to clean it up and get new gaskets and hardware. The fit against the watts link bar was very tight, but manageable. There's just barely enough room to fish the EVAP line between the tank and the frame. Now all that's left is welding the 3 brackets onto the rear end housing, and bolting it in. That's going to be next week's goal.
  3. Ok both the watts bar and 3rd link bar are bolted to the frame rails now. The watts bar slid over the frame rails no problem, but I did have some difficulty getting the 3rd link bar fully seated - it was about 1/8" too narrow as you can see from the first pic. Emailed Shaun at StreetorTrack and he said that's typical as some cars will have wider or narrower set frame rails than others, and to use a dead blow hammer to get it lined up. I will say the step bolts they gave you use to bolt everything up are pretty intuitive. They have you drill a 1/2" hole on the outboard side of your frame rails, and a 3/8" hole on the inboard side, so that the step bolt can effectively clamp both sides of the frame rails. Let's you torque them on pretty tight without worrying about warping anything.
  4. Test fitting everything today. A couple of things I've noticed. 1: the gas tank straps are going to have to to in before the watts bar as it looks like the bar sits right beneath them. 2: not going to be able to use the factory brake line support bracket as the 3rd link bar needs to go where it is. Going to have to do some creative brake line rerouting. Next step is to take out the pinion snubber plate that's welded in the transmission tunnel with a spot weld drill, then I can actually bolt the watts bar and 3rd link bar to the frame.
  5. Yep. It can be a pain getting the kickdown linkage and shifter linkage lined up in relation to the valve body, but is otherwise a pretty straightforward job.
  6. Ok everything that needs to come off the car is out. Going to be taking tomorrow to start wire wheeling everything under here and prep for paint. Figured I might as well do that now since I don't know when I'll have the rear disassembled like this again.
  7. Absolutely. I'm thinking I'll get some continental extreme contact DWS06 tires when I do. I have them on my other car and they perform really well for all seasons. Going to need to find some good wheels as well since my current ones are only 15x8.
  8. First things first, I removed the gas tank. The watts bar sits right in front of it, so rather than struggle getting that fitted in, I figured it would just be easier to take the tank out. My goal this weekend is to get everything removed in terms of shock absorbers, leaf springs, and rear axle. Not sure if I'll have fitment issues with my current exhaust, but I'm leaning towards yes, so will likely be removing it as well.
  9. Figured I'd document my ongoing suspension/steering system overhaul here in case anyone is looking at doing something similar. So far I've done: - 12.7:1 quick ratio steering box from Redhead - new pitman arm, idler arm, rag joint, inner tie rods - Baer adjustable outer tie rods for bump steer elimination - 1 1/8" front sway bar - StreetorTrack front coilover conversion And I'm starting on the StreetorTrack rear 3-link suspension install this weekend. This should be considerably more involved than everything else listed above, so on one hand I'm somewhat intimidated by it, but on the other I'm really excited because this is the last suspension component I'm doing other than subframe connectors eventually.
  10. Man I've been there. Definitely want to be sure you removed the locating pin as Don mentioned. Not getting leaks with 2 piece seals is kind of a dark magic. You gotta pull every trick you can, and even then there's a chance it won't seal up - or just start leaking after 1,000 miles. Here's my list for doing them, and it usually works pretty consistently. Spend the money and buy a good quality seal. i.e. Fel-Pro viton/silicone or Cometic Its better to remove the crank when redoing a seal. There are tools out there (like a sneaky pete) that will let you do it without removing the crank, but you're increasing your chances of another leak Offset the seal halves by about 3/8" from the block surface Skim on a small amount of silicone on the seal ends where they butt against each other. Use a small amount of silicone between the cap and block If you can get your hands on some Motorcraft TA-31 gray silicone, go ahead and do that. Its the stuff they use at the Ford dealerships. You should just be able to go to their parts counter and ask for it. Works way way better than Permatex in my experience.
  11. Rear SoT suspension goodies came in the mail yesterday. Going to start tackling it in a few days.
  12. Put the table into a chart for you, a bit easier to get a read on in my opinion. First pull looks pretty good, but you could probably stand to go a hair leaner on the jets - could make more power, but if it negatively impacts drivability, maybe don't go that route. Most carb'd engines do well with around a 12.5 air/fuel ratio. Other than that, the dyno curve looks pretty typical for a mild cam - not much torque drop-off and HP levels off about 5,000. I'm not familiar enough with the blue thunder intake to tell you how that would affect your curve, but I'm sure someone who is can chime in. As far as carb sizing goes, I like to use this calculation. If you call up Holley asking what carb you should get, they'll pretty much use the same formula: (Cubic Inches x RPM / 3456) = CFM (cubic feet per minute) So, in your instance, it would be ((351 * 6,000) / 3456) = 609 CFM. Probably good to stick under 700CFM for your carb. Most people oversize their carb thinking bigger is better - don't fall into that trap lol. Second page pull
  13. I've got mine insured through Hagerty with agreed value as well. Waaaaay cheaper than conventional insurance and it only costs me like $25 /month since my car is one of the less desirable trim levels. I think the valuation tool they have on their site put it somewhere between $6,500-$9,000 which seems about right.
  14. I've had great luck with my Ebay knockoff champion 3 row radiator. Going on 6 years with it.
  15. So recently there's talk all over the news about how used car prices are skyrocketing, and while I don't think that may be directly affecting the classics market specifically, I think it is definitely having some kind of impact. We all know how common it is to see listings of people wanting to sell their neglected L code coupes for obscene amounts of money, but it seems that as of late, those kinds of listings are becoming all the more common. I saw someone on the Facebook group a few days ago wanting $30k for their 73 302 coupe that was missing half it's interior. And then there's the other end of the spectrum where the really well optioned 71-73s are starting to fetch record prices (see the mach 1 recently sold at Barret Jackson for $176k). So what do y'all think? Is the value of our cars jumping? And will they catch up to what the earlier year cars are going for?
  16. My 71 was the first car I had. Got me through college as my daily driver (wouldn't recommend it). I don't drive it as much as I used to, but it's still usually my daily during the spring and fall when the weather permits. The driving experience is just so much more fun and engaging than any of the other newer cars I've had.
  17. I had to take mine to my machinist. They had some kind of hydraulic press jig up that would pop them off. Other than that, your looking at very carefully using a cutoff wheel to remove it. I think they rarely ever come off by hammering/heating.
  18. If you're gonna go the route of rebuilding a 4100, the carb CFM is based on the venturi size, which is stamped on the side of the carb. Here's a handy chart for decoding what each venturi size translates to. As far as I know, 1.08 is the most common size.
  19. Correct. Your air cleaner has 2 spots for connections on it. The one in the front goes to the flexible tube to the evap canister, and I believe the other one goes to the breather cap on the back of the valve cover, but someone can correct me on that if I'm wrong.
  20. The blue canister is your evap canister. It's filled with activated charcoal and it's purpose is to vent the fumes from the gas tank. Looks like you've already got the line that goes to the fuel tank hooked up. The middle fitting has a plastic cap that goes on it, while the one on the left has a flexible aluminum tube that connects it to the air cleaner. NOS ones are very hard to come by if that's what you're wanting, but there are repros out there, or I guess there's nothing preventing you from just hooking up some 3/4" vacuum/egr hose. https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-assy-fuel-vapor-canister/147118
  21. My car came with a Boss 302 429 scoop (and stripes) that the PO put on. I don't like it personally, but it doesn't look awful I guess. Would much rather have a NACA hood, but that's just not a priority yet with the build. On the other hand, I probably *could* fit a blower under the hood with a little bit of modification.
  22. Replaced my pitman arm today, and can confirm with video evidence that they do wear out...
  23. Looks fantastic! What wheel widths did you end up going with?
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