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Galucha

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Everything posted by Galucha

  1. Just put on flowFX mufflers as well. Very little drone with a reasonably mellow tone and I was able to eliminate the drone entirely by adding a pair of resonators. Still have a great tone when you get on it, but the sound level when you're cruising is very tolerable.
  2. I'm running this one from painless. Have it mounted on the fender near the starter relay. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80000
  3. Well I figured since I already have a can of SEM paint on the way, I might as well give it a shot. I do like your idea of vinyl wrapping them though. I have a few yards of satin black 3M vinyl lying around, so that's gonna be my backup plan.
  4. Great looking stance. Did you have to do any fender rolling to fit the wheels?
  5. What does your wiring look like from the alternator to the starter relay junction/main harness yellow wire? Sounds like you've got wiring issues somewhere other than the alternator itself. Also would strongly recommend running a 100A inline fuse, if you're not already.
  6. No longer need these. I think they were last reupholstered around 2008, so they have some normal wear and tear on the vinyl, but are in overall pretty good condition. The frames themselves are in great shape and barely have any rust. $120 OBO, only doing local pickup in or around Chattanooga TN.
  7. Cleaning out the garage of some stuff I no longer have use for. Free to a good home, just pay shipping via PayPal. Of course I wouldn't complain if someone wanted to donate to my beer money fund. 1: Clips for holding package tray in place. These go behind the rear seats. 2: Leaf spring shock plates for non-staggered setup. These came off of a car with an 8 inch rear end, if it makes any difference. 3: Repro rear lap belts. Unsure of brand, but they are in decent shape. I also have the original Ford hardware for them.
  8. Ok wrapped it up today. Not show quality by any means, and I still need to fix the paint on the quarter trim panels, but it gets the job done and saved me a good bit of weight. I went ahead and made a new package tray as well. Made a "flap" on top of the trunk divider piece and put some Velcro on the back of it so that there wasn't a gap between the two pieces.
  9. Started mocking it up with some cardboard as a template to get the dimensions right. Nothing too complex on the coupe, so this should be a pretty straightforward job. I found some 1/8" fiberglass reinforced ABS sheet that should be perfect, so the plan is to glue carpet onto the front, and lay dynamat on the trunk side of the panel. Also looks like the black paint on my quarter trim pieces is rubbing off where the seat was, so might be a good opportunity to fix it right and try out the SEM trim paint.
  10. Looks great! Thanks for the pics, that's pretty much exactly what I'm going for.
  11. Thanks! It's a standard non-NACA hood that the previous owner put a boss scoop on. It has somewhat functional ram air as there is a cutout and the air filter is a stream-top style and sits right below the opening.
  12. Considering this for my car as I don't ever use the rear seat for passengers - there's essentially no legroom in the coupes. And I think I should be able to shave at least 50lbs in weight by doing so. I've seen some kits out there for earlier year cars, but none for the 71-73s. Looking at using some ABS sheet material to make a panel and then glueing carpet on it. Anyone have pictures or a guide on how they did it?
  13. Couple shots from this past weekend. Got a chance to really push the new suspension components and they performed exceptionally well.
  14. I ended up affixing an old flex plate on the floor jack, and the setting the chunk on top of it to lift it into position. Worked pretty good.
  15. Funny enough I'm actually doing the same job today and am wondering the same. Didn't wanna hassle with dropping the housing, so I'll have to find a way to lift it up solo as well
  16. Ditto on that. The sheet metal where the topside of the shock mounts is not very thick. I supposed you could always weld a plate in to beef it up, but the angle may be tricky since they kind of sit down in a hole behind the seat.
  17. Here's one I took on one of my favorite routes through Sequatchie valley, TN.
  18. I had the same symptoms. The issue I had with mine was that the copper contact plate that is glued onto the metal piece was off center. Terrible QC. I compared it to an old one that was made about 15 years prior and you could tell that they didn't position the contact plate correctly. It was at least 1/8" off center.
  19. I've been using them pretty regularly during the restoration of a friend's 1975 Corvette.
  20. Sounds like the sending unit wire is being grounded out somewhere. If you pull the plug off of the sending unit on the tank side, does the needle go back down to empty?
  21. Ok have a concern regarding wheel centering that maybe someone can help me with. Right now I'm using these lug nuts I bought on summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-21183et The extended shank fits snugly into the wheels, which in turn helps to center them when I install them onto the car. I believe this would be a lug-centric setup? Would there be any benefit to getting hub-centric rings to center the wheel instead, or would that just be unnecessary? My thought is that if I don't get any vibration at speed with my current setup, I shouldn't need to get hub-centric rings. Trying to get the safest setup and wondering which system is better.
  22. Another clearance check after getting the rear tires mounted. Will definitely need to roll the fenders, as the inner lip is making contact with the tire at about 1.5" of suspension travel. I know I have exactly 2.87" of rear suspension travel at full compression, so rolling them should get me plenty of additional clearance. I will say it's very close with 285s, so I bet 275s would not have any issues on these wheels. Will be borrowing a fender rolling tool this weekend to get that done.
  23. Very exciting day as the rear wheels and tires came in. The front and rear spacing is about as perfect as I could ask for. The clearance between the wheel and fender lip is almost exactly the same as the front wheels (15/16"), although I may have to roll the fenders as these tires have a taller cross section and may rub. On the back side, I have at least 1.5" of clearance to the shock mount bracket. These wheels have +12mm of backspacing, so I'm glad I went with them. I think I will look at getting some hub centric rings made to close the gap between the axle hub (72.6mm) and the wheel center bore (63mm). Will be getting some more video footage next week after I get the tires mounted and balanced.
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