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Galucha

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Everything posted by Galucha

  1. If you want the absolute best "headache-free" combo, I'd suggest either a vacuum secondary Holley 4160 or Edelbrock AVS2 carb (cfm will depend on your engine) paired with an MSD ready to run billet distributor - all of the perks of having an MSD ignition, without the box. I'm more of a Holley guy, but the AVS2 carb does have annular boosters out of the box which can really help out with driveability.
  2. I did the 2 short brackets on the top for mine and it works pretty well.
  3. PO had installed an aftermarket AC system and butchered the temperature control lever, so I had to buy another unit. But otherwise the faceplate, knobs, and fan control lever can be salvaged. Just pay shipping.
  4. Can't go wrong with a 600 CFM Holley w/ vacuum secondaries then. When I bought mine, it ran great right out of the box.
  5. Running a 600cfm quick fuel brawler carb on my mild 302. I stepped up the primary discharge nozzle one size from the factory .029" to .031" and the throttle response feels perfect. I was running a standard Holley 600 CFM w/vacuum secondaries previously. It was a little bit more street friendly, but I enjoy having the extra control you get with mechanical secondaries. Comes a lot down to personal preference IMO.
  6. Might have been me. Pretty happy with the matte black.
  7. Galucha

    Crazy Odds

    So I bought a 1971 F100 last week. Seemed pretty well optioned (Ranger XLT trim) and a good candidate for restoration, plus it's the same year as my mustang. Well it didn't come with any documentation and the door tag has long since been gone, so I ran a Marti report to find out some of the history of it. Turns out that not only did it come from the Ford truck plant in Michigan (the mustang is a Dearborn car), but it was also produced on the SAME DAY as the mustang - November 20th, 1970. Thought that was a really cool coincidence.
  8. I saw that yesterday and thought about posting it here. Could have sworn 73s never had the hockey stick stripes, so I guess that just confirms it.
  9. From what I can tell it's 3/4". I'm thinking running it with a 1 1/8" front sway bar should keep things balanced.
  10. After much research on these forums, I settled on getting a redhead 12.7:1 steering box instead of going the rebuild route, and WOW what a difference. The steering feel is night and day difference compared to the old SPA-U box. Figured it was time since the old box had developed a pretty bad leak around the shaft seal and had about 2 inches of play at the wheel. https://i.imgur.com/Cwp5lPO.jpg[/img] You can see just how bad the leak was underneath. https://i.imgur.com/xicJY7k.jpg[/img] New vs old. I called redhead to order this box, but they didn't have any with the 12.7:1 gea
  11. I've found that using aircraft stripper to take off most of the paint then hitting the part with a wire wheel tends to work really well.
  12. In the never ending quest to make my car feel less "boaty" I'm looking at doing front/rear sway bar upgrades. Mine didn't come with the competition suspension, so if I go with a stock style sway bar I think I'll need to track down the correct mounting plates, but I saw this on TCP's website and it looks pretty tempting. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/arrm.html Can anyone comment on the quality/adjustability of these? And is it worth going this route over the stock style sway bar?
  13. $0.94 in Chattanooga last week. Suffice to say I'm driving the mustang a bit more lately. https://i.imgur.com/JC2KyVd.jpg[/img]
  14. That would be awesome to have. I have access to a 60" flat bed vinyl cutting plotter, and could potentially do a few runs if there is a CAD file available.
  15. I've wrapped a few vehicles, and am actually considering doing the ram air hood and hockey stick stripes with my own car when I get around to repainting it. The quality and tech around vinyl wraps has advanced a LOT over the last few years with better air release channels, adhesiveness, and durability. I've worked with 3M and Avery and as long as you learn how to use knifeless tape, you can wrap just about any pattern or curve. Here's a really good video showing what you can do with knifeless tape and good quality vinyl.
  16. Well I reached out to see if he'd be interested in parting it out, and the answer was no. Unfortunately I don't have the garage space for a parts car at the moment, so it doesn't look like its happening.
  17. Looked like there might be some good interior parts, but the full length center console in the last picture has got me interested. Thoughts?
  18. If you have the harness that goes into the back of the fuse block, I believe the solid yellow wire is the one you should be able to jump the battery to. You'd need to ground the battery somewhere like the firewall. When in doubt, reference the wiring diagrams: https://www.7173mustangs.com/misc.php?page=diagrams
  19. Today I replaced my old, worn out steering box with a new quick ratio unit from Redhead gears. The difference is dramatic. There's no play in the steering, it takes 2.8 turns from lock to lock (instead of 4), and theres way more feedback and resistance at the wheel. https://i.imgur.com/4UjDK6Z.jpg[/img] https://i.imgur.com/ob7aJNK.jpg[/img]
  20. Thanks for the guide! I was able to find the relief area for the blower motor under the dash, so i'm 99% sure that my car originally came without A/C - so no fabrication hopefully.
  21. You'll be able to make a little more compression with pistons with 2 valve reliefs instead of 4. I used a set of DSS 8720-4030 in a similar build and I'm really happy with them. They're a really good deal as far as forged pistons go and will give you more freedom down the road if you decide to add more power. And definitely +1 on checking the piston to valve clearance.
  22. So unfortunately when I got my car, the original heater box was not there, and in its place was a (cheap) aftermarket AC system. I'm wanting to take it back to original and put in the correct non-AC heater box and had a few questions regarding it, since I don't really have any examples to go off of and will be starting from scratch. Here is the box I'm looking at: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/d/woodstock-mustang-heater-71-73/7065837347.html# I'm definitely putting in a new core before installing, but is there any material/diagrams out there or tips/tricks before tackling th
  23. I just ordered a box from redhead. I know some folks on this forum have bought from them and had good experiences, so I figured i'd give it a try. I'll post how it works once it ships. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/17500-3t-ford-mercury-passenger-w-181-ratio/
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