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Steve73QMach1 last won the day on January 13 2013

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About Steve73QMach1

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    1973 Q code Mach 1 blue glow with argent stripes, 351C-4V, C6 auto
    1973 Q code Mach 1 blue glow with argent stripes, 351C-4V, 4 speed


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    United States
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  1. Wow - that car came out great. I'm glad to see the completed video of the car because we were all following it closely. You did an amazing job there. How are things with your green 73 vert?
  2. Mine was also hard to see so I cleaned it up a bit and applied some white paint in the recessed numbers to make them stand out a bit more. Mine was 3F260846 - the 3F portion was stamped a little lighter so it is harder to see. It looks like each character was individually stamped. This matches my dash VIN so that's good to know.
  3. I don't know why the ad even mentions the Marti report or the original documentation if they are not going to show it. If you have the Marti report why isn't it one of the photos in the ad? If you are going to expect big money on an unusual car with interesting options then show us that it is original. If documented, then you certainly have a better chance of selling it to someone who knows and appreciates its rarity. Like others have said, I don't like the way both front fenders appear to be a different shade of green. I don't think it's a lighting issue - looks like it's been repainted. What's with the weird F70-15 tire size? If these magnums were original why wouldn't you get the F60-15 tires that came with them instead of this odd size. Again, the Marti report would be nice to show here. As for the "mint" black interior - what happened to that headliner? Large stains are present on the drivers side - how does that happen on a 17K mile car that has been pampered? Seems odd that the air cleaner lid has no decals. Not sure where those rogue red wires go running along the drivers side shock tower. If it's original, it is a cool car. I like the idea of a sleeper coupe like that - especially if it came from the factory that way. You just can't discern much based on the poor job of advertising the car.
  4. Got my exhaust manifolds cleaned up in preparation for installation back on the engine for my Mach 1. RH: D0AE-9430-G with casting date of 3F19 (June 19, 1973) LH: D1ZE-9431-BA with casting date of 3F23 (June 23, 1973) This car was built 7/5/73 so these casting dates line up nicely with the build date of the car. The RH manifold apparently had a tendency to crack over time so I was happy to see that mine had no evidence of cracking. These manifolds are in amazingly good shape for being 44+ years old.
  5. What type of options do you have ? Things like , power windows and rear window defrost are high current draw options that normally dictated a higher amp alternator from the factory. One of my Mach 1 ‘s has those options and it came with a 70 amp alternator. My other Mach 1 doesn’t have those options and it has a 55 amp alternator.
  6. Thanks for getting us back to normal Barry - your efforts are very much appreciated. Sounds like there was some cost involved in moving to the new server. Do we need to raise some funds to cover that?
  7. html picture upload This is from my 73 Q code. It is a little different than the 2V model due to manifold size
  8. That's a real beauty! I had a 73 Mach 1 in that same color scheme - one of my favorites. Did you have the Marti report for that car? Was it in Canada all of it's life? Does it have the metric speedometer?
  9. My feeling is that the cam is wiped out too. I should know in a couple of weeks or so. Will post results as soon as I hear.
  10. I don't have any results back from the builder yet. Symptoms were no power, low vacuum (14" at idle). As soon as I put the car in drive, it would die unless I feathered the throttle up to 2,000 RPM or so. Even then, it could barely move the car without falling over itself. I searched for vacuum leaks, changed distributors, changed carbs, replaced intake gaskets, etc. with no changes noted. Compression was good and even across all cylinders. My guess is cam timing issues or the wrong timing set used.
  11. After spending plenty of money on the restoration of my 73 Mach 1 back in 2013, I have yet to put any miles on the car. I had the original engine rebuilt by a friend of mine that owns his own engine shop. He gave me a good discount on the job but the problem is that the engine has never run right since. I thought it was something simple - something that I could fix myself. I have had experience working on engines in the past - rebuilt a 302 for my 1970 Mustang (except for the machining portions) and it ran great when completed. After screwing around with this 351C 4V for the last 4 years with no results at all, I have thrown in the towel. I came to the conclusion that there is something internally wrong with this engine that is beyond my capabilities to fix. Last week, I removed the engine and delivered it to a professional performance shop that specializes in vintage Ford engines. The lesson I learned is that you get what you pay for. I paid a discount price for an engine rebuild for my car and received back a piece of junk. I wasted the last 4 years trying to fix this thing instead of enjoying driving the car around and going to shows. I know people are going to say that I should have taken it back to my friends shop and demanded that they fix it. The reason I did not is that I don't want those guys touching my engine ever again. I will just have to eat the discount price I paid for this "work". I am looking forward to having my engine built the right way and look forward to the dyno results when it is done. Here is my engine after being removed (hopefully for the last time).
  12. Very late production car. Likely late June or early July. The price is way too high for that car.
  13. Mine stops working every now and then, especially after the car hasn't run for a while. I just tap on the top of the dashboard above the tach and it jumps back to life. Not a technical fix but it does continue to work after that for a long period of time. My other Mach 1 does not ever have that issue.
  14. There is no gasket required John. I cleaned up the interface at the exhaust manifold before installing the H pipe to ensure a proper mating surface. Make sure you support the H pipe at the intermediate pipe interface (at the proper level) while torquing the flange bolts to the exhaust manifolds. Mine had no leaks there after installation.
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