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73pony

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Posts posted by 73pony

  1. 46 minutes ago, Bobby said:

    Mine were the clamshell type.  The edges of the clamshell is what was causing clearance issues with the headers.  In lieu of shims, what do you recommend?

    The clamshell type is the 73 mount. Sounds like you have 73 perches. Swap out the 73 frame perches with a set of 71-72 perches and use the new mounts you have. This will get you back to the right height and centered in the fan shroud. The 71-72 perches are taller than the 73 perches since the 71-72 mounts are shorter. Hope this helps. 

  2. 10 minutes ago, Bobby said:

    I searched high and low for headers that were PS compatible but just kept coming short.  I spoke with the Sanderson Techs and they assured me that it was.  If you have your mind set on Hooker, you might want to do the same before your order.  Also, very important, check the condition of your engine mounts.  The muffler guy that did my exhaust system (including the Sanderson Header install) told me that my engine mounts were worn and needed replacement.  He had much difficulty routing the exhaust to get by the mounts and the left header was touching the piping.  I ordered new mounts and installed them myself.  The headers now have plenty of clearance........but we solve one problem and create another.......the repro mounts are out of spec and the engine now sits lower (thank you PRC) and the fan blade scrapes the bottom of the shroud.  I found some engine mount shims on Speedway Motors and will try to get them installed before too long.  Hopefully that will be it and done! 

    What did the mounts you took out look like (std or clam shell/captive mounts). There are different perches and mounts for 73 than there is for 71-72. The 73 mounts are not being reproduced so I ended up switching my perches over to the 71-72 perches and using the available 71-72 mounts and everything fit perfect. Also I am running headman headers with power steering with no issues. I do not recommend shims on engine mounts. 

  3. I guess it kind of depends on what you are comparing it to. My pedal feel is harder for sure than my wife's Volvo, but it very similar in feel to my Audi. It is firm but stops great. It is an original front disc brake care running original master (rebuilt) and original booster. Front Discs have been upgraded to 4 piston wilwoods with drums still out back. That upgrade did not effect pedal feel only how well it stopped. 

  4. 13 hours ago, not2old said:

    Installing electric fuel pump.  Not getting enough fuel at full throttle and vapor lot with high temps hot soak restarts

    What pump and regulator are you going with? I'm having issue when I'm running the car at WOT in first up to 5500 plus RPM then when I hit second it falls on its face for a second due to lack of fuel before it recovers. Are you doing in-tank? If not where are you mounting it?

  5. Just my opinion. I would fix the original. Just my 2 cents. I'm running a pretty well modified 351C along with the original untouched radiator from 1973 with stock fan and shroud and never have a problem. Sat in bumper to bumper traffic in 95-100 degree temps on the 2017 Power Tour and the car never came up over 195, me on the other hand with no AC was cooking.  

  6. This would depend on if there are any other mods to the engine. IE 4bbl intake and carb? Cam? Head work? Both headers and dual exhaust allow the engine to breath easier on the way out but if you did not make any modification to allow more coming in then the performance gain is less than it would be had the intake side been done as well. Mods all have to work together to get the most bang for the buck. Say you did an intake swap to a 4bbl carb and left the single exhaust and stock manifolds on, you would gain some additional power. Then decided to swap to headers and dual exhaust later on. The gain from the exhaust swap would be greater in this scenario than leaving the intake a 2bbl and swapping out the exhaust. 

  7. As mentioned above, a battery relocation to the rear passenger side makes a difference. I also lowered the car 1" all around, aluminum intake, removed AC, larger front sway bar (1 1/8"), all new stock style suspension components (I boxed in the LCA's to stiffen them), 12.7:1 steering conversion, 17x8 in front 17x9 in rear, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks all around (kind of stiff). These mods made a complete night and day difference in how the car handles in the corners. So I reduced weight in front by removing or lightening items and relocated some of that to the rear to help weight distribution (getting closer to that 50/50 mark), this along with the lowered center of gravity and stiffening of the LCA's and larger sway bar all work together to improve handling. While just doing a weight distribution change will help some it is a combination of several things to really see and notice a difference. Hope this helps. 

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