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About Paul4425

  • Birthday 10/05/1987

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Mach 1
    351C CJ
    4V, 4-Speed


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  1. Upon further testing and investigation, points suck. I was still having issues when it was under a load. I broke down and swapped the points and condenser with a PerTronix electronic ignition. It fired up perfectly and ran like a champ. No hesitation or bogging under a load. That will be the last set of points I ever deal with. It was definitely worth the $85 dollars.
  2. Well, after a long week or so of troubleshooting I have the fix/fixes...The distributor points were not gaped correctly (way too close), and this was causing an erratic spark. I also discovered a spark plug wire that was not working consistently. The erratic spark and the wire were the reasons for the missing/thus the plugs were fouling due to the extra fuel in the chamber when it did spark. I am thinking the points may have moved when I was out driving it that day. I adjusted the points and also swapped the condenser for good measure. This fixed my idle issue. (Still a little unsure why this was only an issue at lower RPMs and why when the engine heated up it smoothed out for a while) The second issue was that once under a load and driving the engine would surge. I am fairly certain this was due to the timing being too advanced, and the distributor vac advance advancing too quickly. Tomorrow I will start doing some road testing on this issue and see if I can get it set correctly. Right now, when the vac advance is hooked up it is backfiring out of the exhaust on the driver side. I still have some fine tuning to due (probably adjust the idle set screw on the driver side). But, the car is starting and runs very well without the vac advance hooked up, so I am definitely ahead from the last week! -Paul
  3. I swapped the original carb and intake during the rebuild. The car was not running when I bought it. The idle set screws do/did make a difference when I was able to get it to idle. It seems to be an excess fuel, not starvation (had loads of carbon on the plugs). No EGR installed.
  4. Lol, I like the condenser prank. Might have to give that a try. I am also thinking it is more likely in the calibration rather than the ignition. Going to look harder into that today. I have the original carb, but it hasn't run in 25 years so it would take some work getting it operational.
  5. Well, turns out the old distributor does not work. No spark at the plugs, tested with a timing light (that was a waste of about two hours changing it and then changing it back). The new old parts do not fit the new stock style distributor. They have different internals. I'm out of time and patients for today. Will try again tomorrow evening.
  6. I'm running the stock mechanical fuel pump. Just finished cleaning the plugs and stuck the original distributor on. Getting ready to do a test run and see if things are better.
  7. I do not have a dwell meter. I do have a NOS set of points, and 2 NOS condensers. The points and 1 condenser are from Parts Master and the other condenser is from Standard Motor Products/Blue Steak. I don't think fuel contamination is the issue, because I took apart the carb and it was clean. I also pulled the fuel hose and shot some into a container (came out clean). Also all the lines, tank, and filter are brand new. If it was the distributor/points/condenser would the symptoms change with RPM or be consistent across the board?
  8. I took a look, the points look good. No way to really test the condenser other than swap it. If the condenser was bad wouldn't it be consistent across all RPM ranges? I have the original distributor, but...when I got the car the glove box had a bunch of extra condensers and distributor parts which makes me skeptical putting it back on.
  9. I took a look, the points look good. No way to really test the condenser other than swap it. If the condenser was bad wouldn't it be consistent across all RPM ranges?
  10. I haven't run if for 24 hours and there is still fuel sitting in the intake, and the bowls are full. But, when I shut it down for good yesterday it was missing and sputtering again so I imagine that has to do with the standing fuel and plugs being fouled again. Not 100% sure, but I don't think it is a leak, I'm thinking maybe just too much is being supplied at idle and low RPMs because that is where the issue is. High RPMs (above 2.5-3.0 seem to be running fine). I have the Edelbrock 650 CFM, electric choke. All the car specs are at the bottom of the initial post.
  11. Took apart the carb again. Fuel level in the bowls was good. Nothing blocking the needle valves (needles and springs looked good). There was a very little amount of debris in the bottom of one bowl. I sucked it out, but doubt that it had anything to do with the issue (very fine and minimal amount, just a few specs). Pumped some fuel into a clear bottle, fuel was clean. When looking down into the intake there was still a bit of standing fuel on the top.
  12. I replaced the coil after this happened and checked the volts, it was at 12.7 or so. Coil wire was checked as well and had steady voltage. All vacuum lines were sealed trying to isolate the problem and I did not find and leaks (they are still plugged). It has the stock distributor with single vac advance (plugged for troubleshooting).
  13. I will give that a try. It has all new lines, new tank, new pump, new filter, new plugs, new plug wires. Everything in new. If I pull the carb apart again, where should I be focusing on looking for junk? When I took it apart the first time the bowls were full of fuel and looked clean (but I was not as focused on looking for anything, just checking floats).
  14. The carb was new out of the box about 3 weeks ago. I have started it regularly sense installed (every 3 days or so). It idled, started, and ran good until now. Paul
  15. I ran into an issue the other day when taking the Mach 1 around the block. I just recently got my car operation (full resto) and am troubleshooting and tuning everything now. Prior to this day, the car started, idled, and revved up well, but would get a slight surging effect when I drove it over an idle speed (so far have only made it around the block). During my test drive on this particular day the engine started surging horribly and sounded like it was missing. I limped it back to the house and started diagnosing the issue. It would barely start and had an erratic idle. I assumed I fouled the plugs due to having it miss all the way back to the house (1 block away). I pulled them and, as expected, they were full of carbon. Cleaned and reinstalled the plugs and then tried the restart. I was able to get it started for a few seconds but it was rough at low RPMs and idle. I immediately brought the RPMs up to about 3000. It began to smooth out and run normally at this RPM. I plugged the vacuum advance from the distributor and checked the timing. It was at about 40 total (changed a bit from my initial setting) but could not get the initial because the car would no longer idle. I backed it down to 36 total. I was able to get total set to 36 and the idle then evened out at about 750 (where it was initially set) for a while after I ran it up getting the total timing. The initial was about 14 but hunting slightly. When running it up I had the vacuum gauge hooked up and was steadily getting 55 cm Hg at 4000 RPM. I dropped it down to an idle and let it run for a while. Once it started to cool off the idle started bouncing around between 500-1000 again. I messed with the idle set screws thinking maybe they were too rich and causing the erratic idle. It didn’t make any difference. I then decided maybe there was a vacuum leak somewhere. I plugged the only other two vacuum lines (power booster and PCV to front of carb). I used the started fluid method and came up with nothing, and because I let it cool off a while the idle and low RPM range got worse. It would barely stay running and sounded just as bad as when I started trouble shooting. It still smells and acts like it is running too rich (but I know/think the timing is very close to where it should be). It is now looking like it may be a carb issue (too much fuel at low RPM causing erratic idle and fouling out the plugs). I do have an upgraded cam, but nothing too crazy (see part number and specs below). I took the carb apart and checked the floats. They were at the stock 7/16 setting and everything looked good (all stock settings on the carb). Should I look into changing the springs and possibly the primary jets to restrict fuel flow? Do I need to swap plugs rather than just clean and replace? So as it stands…the car runs like hell, doesn’t want to idle or run at low RPMs, the plugs are fouling from too much fuel and misfires…other than that everything is great! Any advice and technical knowledge would be appreciated. Paul Car specs... 351c bored 30 over Comp cam: FC 268H-10, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Adv. Duration 268/268, Lift .494/.494 Edelbrock 650 cfm Edelbrock Performer Intake for 351c 4v Stock Ignition system (new distributor and coil)
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