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Everything posted by Paul4425

  1. Upon further testing and investigation, points suck. I was still having issues when it was under a load. I broke down and swapped the points and condenser with a PerTronix electronic ignition. It fired up perfectly and ran like a champ. No hesitation or bogging under a load. That will be the last set of points I ever deal with. It was definitely worth the $85 dollars.
  2. Well, after a long week or so of troubleshooting I have the fix/fixes...The distributor points were not gaped correctly (way too close), and this was causing an erratic spark. I also discovered a spark plug wire that was not working consistently. The erratic spark and the wire were the reasons for the missing/thus the plugs were fouling due to the extra fuel in the chamber when it did spark. I am thinking the points may have moved when I was out driving it that day. I adjusted the points and also swapped the condenser for good measure. This fixed my idle issue. (Still a little unsure why this was only an issue at lower RPMs and why when the engine heated up it smoothed out for a while) The second issue was that once under a load and driving the engine would surge. I am fairly certain this was due to the timing being too advanced, and the distributor vac advance advancing too quickly. Tomorrow I will start doing some road testing on this issue and see if I can get it set correctly. Right now, when the vac advance is hooked up it is backfiring out of the exhaust on the driver side. I still have some fine tuning to due (probably adjust the idle set screw on the driver side). But, the car is starting and runs very well without the vac advance hooked up, so I am definitely ahead from the last week! -Paul
  3. I swapped the original carb and intake during the rebuild. The car was not running when I bought it. The idle set screws do/did make a difference when I was able to get it to idle. It seems to be an excess fuel, not starvation (had loads of carbon on the plugs). No EGR installed.
  4. Lol, I like the condenser prank. Might have to give that a try. I am also thinking it is more likely in the calibration rather than the ignition. Going to look harder into that today. I have the original carb, but it hasn't run in 25 years so it would take some work getting it operational.
  5. Well, turns out the old distributor does not work. No spark at the plugs, tested with a timing light (that was a waste of about two hours changing it and then changing it back). The new old parts do not fit the new stock style distributor. They have different internals. I'm out of time and patients for today. Will try again tomorrow evening.
  6. I'm running the stock mechanical fuel pump. Just finished cleaning the plugs and stuck the original distributor on. Getting ready to do a test run and see if things are better.
  7. I do not have a dwell meter. I do have a NOS set of points, and 2 NOS condensers. The points and 1 condenser are from Parts Master and the other condenser is from Standard Motor Products/Blue Steak. I don't think fuel contamination is the issue, because I took apart the carb and it was clean. I also pulled the fuel hose and shot some into a container (came out clean). Also all the lines, tank, and filter are brand new. If it was the distributor/points/condenser would the symptoms change with RPM or be consistent across the board?
  8. I took a look, the points look good. No way to really test the condenser other than swap it. If the condenser was bad wouldn't it be consistent across all RPM ranges? I have the original distributor, but...when I got the car the glove box had a bunch of extra condensers and distributor parts which makes me skeptical putting it back on.
  9. I took a look, the points look good. No way to really test the condenser other than swap it. If the condenser was bad wouldn't it be consistent across all RPM ranges?
  10. I haven't run if for 24 hours and there is still fuel sitting in the intake, and the bowls are full. But, when I shut it down for good yesterday it was missing and sputtering again so I imagine that has to do with the standing fuel and plugs being fouled again. Not 100% sure, but I don't think it is a leak, I'm thinking maybe just too much is being supplied at idle and low RPMs because that is where the issue is. High RPMs (above 2.5-3.0 seem to be running fine). I have the Edelbrock 650 CFM, electric choke. All the car specs are at the bottom of the initial post.
  11. Took apart the carb again. Fuel level in the bowls was good. Nothing blocking the needle valves (needles and springs looked good). There was a very little amount of debris in the bottom of one bowl. I sucked it out, but doubt that it had anything to do with the issue (very fine and minimal amount, just a few specs). Pumped some fuel into a clear bottle, fuel was clean. When looking down into the intake there was still a bit of standing fuel on the top.
  12. I replaced the coil after this happened and checked the volts, it was at 12.7 or so. Coil wire was checked as well and had steady voltage. All vacuum lines were sealed trying to isolate the problem and I did not find and leaks (they are still plugged). It has the stock distributor with single vac advance (plugged for troubleshooting).
  13. I will give that a try. It has all new lines, new tank, new pump, new filter, new plugs, new plug wires. Everything in new. If I pull the carb apart again, where should I be focusing on looking for junk? When I took it apart the first time the bowls were full of fuel and looked clean (but I was not as focused on looking for anything, just checking floats).
  14. The carb was new out of the box about 3 weeks ago. I have started it regularly sense installed (every 3 days or so). It idled, started, and ran good until now. Paul
  15. I ran into an issue the other day when taking the Mach 1 around the block. I just recently got my car operation (full resto) and am troubleshooting and tuning everything now. Prior to this day, the car started, idled, and revved up well, but would get a slight surging effect when I drove it over an idle speed (so far have only made it around the block). During my test drive on this particular day the engine started surging horribly and sounded like it was missing. I limped it back to the house and started diagnosing the issue. It would barely start and had an erratic idle. I assumed I fouled the plugs due to having it miss all the way back to the house (1 block away). I pulled them and, as expected, they were full of carbon. Cleaned and reinstalled the plugs and then tried the restart. I was able to get it started for a few seconds but it was rough at low RPMs and idle. I immediately brought the RPMs up to about 3000. It began to smooth out and run normally at this RPM. I plugged the vacuum advance from the distributor and checked the timing. It was at about 40 total (changed a bit from my initial setting) but could not get the initial because the car would no longer idle. I backed it down to 36 total. I was able to get total set to 36 and the idle then evened out at about 750 (where it was initially set) for a while after I ran it up getting the total timing. The initial was about 14 but hunting slightly. When running it up I had the vacuum gauge hooked up and was steadily getting 55 cm Hg at 4000 RPM. I dropped it down to an idle and let it run for a while. Once it started to cool off the idle started bouncing around between 500-1000 again. I messed with the idle set screws thinking maybe they were too rich and causing the erratic idle. It didn’t make any difference. I then decided maybe there was a vacuum leak somewhere. I plugged the only other two vacuum lines (power booster and PCV to front of carb). I used the started fluid method and came up with nothing, and because I let it cool off a while the idle and low RPM range got worse. It would barely stay running and sounded just as bad as when I started trouble shooting. It still smells and acts like it is running too rich (but I know/think the timing is very close to where it should be). It is now looking like it may be a carb issue (too much fuel at low RPM causing erratic idle and fouling out the plugs). I do have an upgraded cam, but nothing too crazy (see part number and specs below). I took the carb apart and checked the floats. They were at the stock 7/16 setting and everything looked good (all stock settings on the carb). Should I look into changing the springs and possibly the primary jets to restrict fuel flow? Do I need to swap plugs rather than just clean and replace? So as it stands…the car runs like hell, doesn’t want to idle or run at low RPMs, the plugs are fouling from too much fuel and misfires…other than that everything is great! Any advice and technical knowledge would be appreciated. Paul Car specs... 351c bored 30 over Comp cam: FC 268H-10, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Adv. Duration 268/268, Lift .494/.494 Edelbrock 650 cfm Edelbrock Performer Intake for 351c 4v Stock Ignition system (new distributor and coil)
  16. I just had a very similar situation. Went to do the first start on my 72 Q code and blew the oil filter gasket. It didn’t start due to the distributor not being advanced enough, but still had the pressure to blow the seal. My first thought was that the seal was bad or installed incorrectly. Did a reset, cleaned up the oil, installed the filter taking extra care with the seal. Same thing, and engine still didn’t start. This is when I started getting worried. Came inside and did some research. Previously I haven’t posted much on the site, but did a lot of reading. I came across this thread and couldn’t look past the similarities. My set-up was as follows… -Standard flow, Melling oil pump (M84A) -Castrol GTX 10W-30 -FRAM Filter I called my engine builder and explained the situation, along with my thoughts and what I read on this thread. He thought my analysis was correct (stuck or clogged relief valve) but suggested to get it started and see what pressures I was getting, while he called Melling to see if they had any explanation. Guess what…same thing, although this time I advanced the distributor enough to get it turned over (for about 3 seconds before the oil flow from the filter demanded I shut it down)! Big mess, still didn’t get a pressure reading, but I was convinced I knew the problem…and I did get to hear it run for the first time which was inspiring, even if it was only for a few seconds! Couldn’t get ahold of my builder after this so I decided it was time for action. It needed a new pump, and if I started immediately I could finish it that day. Picked up the same pump at O’Reilly’s for $45, $25 in new oil, $8 WIC filter and started in. I jacked the engine and used wood blocks between the engine mounts to get the pan off. Fairly painless, just time consuming (especially without help), and my headers made a few bolts difficult. Still probably quicker then disconnecting everything and pulling the motor. Replaced the pump, reinstalled everything, and had it set-up for another try at the first start in just under 6 hrs. Put her to bed and went in for the first meal of the day at 2300! First start was this morning, and everything went as planned! Started right up, filter stayed on the car, no puddles of oil flowing from underneath. Got a call from my builder shortly after saying Mellings would replace the pump for free and to give their tech line a call. 1(800) 635-5464. I spoke with George and he gave me the same story. Said he would send me a pump and that he would like the faulty pump back so they could see what the problem was. Because I jumped the gun and already bought one, he said to go through O’Reilly’s and file a parts and labor claim (if you don’t Mellings will likely NOT get the pump back, it will just go to scrap if it is only a replacement). The other benefit to filing the claim, I should also get paid for the 6 hrs of labor, all the oil that now stains my driveway, and the new filter. Going in later today to try this out (hopefully no hassle). All in all, a PITA, but I got paid to be a mechanic on my own car yesterday and got to see my car run for the first time today. -Paul
  17. Don, Thanks for the reply. I'm trying not to buy the whole assembly because I only need the lower passenger side area. If you decide to sell the lower separate I would be interested. Paul
  18. In search of a passenger side lower cowl area including the hat. Thanks, Paul
  19. Steve, I am at Whiteman, going on 5 years now. I will be going with original everything (almost) including color and interior. The almost is referring to a few upgrades to the motor as well as converting to disk brakes and adding a/c. The rest will be completely original. -Paul
  20. Hello all, I recently purchased my first full resto project, a numbers matching 72 Mach 1, 351C, 4V, 4-speed. I am new to the Mustang community so I thought it would be a good idea to have some friends in the business and some advice on the project! A little about me and the car...I am in the Air Force and have been for the last 9 years, currently stationed in Missouri. I came to have this soon to be beauty because the wife and I decided we wanted a new toy. I gave her a choice of about 10 different models in various years and this was her favorite. I liked them all but was also partial to Mach 1's because my grandfather had an original 69 back in the day and he talked about it a lot. I bought the car about a month ago and have made decent progress so far. Engine has been removed, to the shop for boring and some new parts, and already back. Car is stripped to nothing and am currently doing the body work. Posted a few pics below, more to come. I look forward to the project ahead and your future help and camaraderie. Paul First look
  21. Any chance the passenger side lower cowl area is in good shape? Thanks, Paul
  22. Is this still for sale? Interested in the passenger side lower cowl area. Thanks, Paul
  23. Any chance you have the Passenger side Cowl Hat and surrounding material? Paul
  24. I'm trying to find someone that will part with, or copy, their Toploader Heaven "How to" CD and if possible, part with the specialized tools that came with the package. I have been trying, with no luck, to reach Mark at Toploader Heaven to order my own. He seems to have disappeared. Please let me know if anyone has one and is willing to sell. Thanks, Paul
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