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Everything posted by Otto

  1. The transmission angle should be downward (negative). The pinion angle should be upward (positive). The two numbers should be 1 degree, numerically, of each other. Think of them as canceling out to make 0. You also want the two numbers to be less than 5. I have found the best place to take the transmission drive angle is at the rear of the transmission housing, next to the seal.. For the pinion angle, get a machined surface horizontal, then take your measurement on top or bottom, making sure you are using the machined surface. If the transmission is off, you use a spacer to achieve the desired angle. If the pinion is off, you use a pinion angle shim (metal wedge) to set it. Pinion angle shims can be ordered in degrees. I hope this makes sense and it helps.
  2. I haven't checked on the price or part number for the low profile trans but it is an option that gives a little more clearance. For me there was no point in asking because I already had mine installed and couldn't exchange it. My regular tko600 worked out great though. I'm using it with Patriot ceramic coated headers and mechanical clutch linkage.
  3. On mine there were no modifications to the car. After talking with Bruce, I ordered the adapter plate for the top loader bellhousing, transmission, cross member and spacer, shifter handle, back up switch and fluid. I used the original z bar with clutch rod and push rod that use rod ends I made and I have no play in my clutch pedal. I also didn't have fitment issues of the clutch cable conversion with the headers and I don't have the headache of trying to make the hydraulic clutch modifications.
  4. I have done this very swap and I did not have to cut or modify on the car itself. The only thing I did was attach the shifter handle to the opposite side of where it usually mounts. I got my conversion kit from Modern Driveline with the help of Bruce, I believe he is the owner. I don't know if another companies conversion kit would give you the same results. It was a great conversion though. It makes the car much more drivable and allows you to cruise comfortably. If you have any other questions, I am more than happy to help. Forgot one thing. Modern Driveline now offers low profile TKO 600's that don't require cutting of the tunnels in any gen 1 Mustang. I highly recommend this model. I would've bought this one but of course they didn't offer it until a few months after I bought mine.
  5. I went with conversion van seat belts that have a drop sash to lower the belt from resting on your neck, to your shoulder. They bolted right up and I'm very happy with them. I ordered then with the lift buckle but you can order them with the push button. The company I got them from is called Wesco.
  6. I agree with the ATF Type F fluid. A number of older systems use this instead of modern power steering fluid. The belt sounds like it needs tension. The old one might be stretched. The adjustment slot on the bracket doesn't offer much. This would be a good time to change all of the belts.
  7. I converted my rear drum to disc using the SSBC standard duty kit. It uses single 45mm pistons. Because this system requires a low volume of fluid to be moved, I was able to use the stock master cylinder while maintaining good braking power and a firm pedal. If you are using a multi piston system, you might want something with a larger piston (less pressure but more volume moved). Just to add, I also tried a 1 1/8 piston MC and found the stock size provided better pressure. As far as parking brake. The kit I used has a good parking brake system. I ordered the shorter parking brake cable 2 1/2 inches longer from Inline Tube to fit the new system. I upgraded the three parking brake cables to stainless steel since I was ordering new units. I also found my set up worked better with a smaller power booster, which was also a brand new unit. The rebuilt stock replacement gave me a spongy pedal that would suddenly apply pressure to the braking system. It did this with the 1 1/8 piston MC and the stock unit. Might have been rebuilt wrong but I already had the GPS booster so I stuck with that. I am very happy with the brake system now. This is my set up: Stock MC GPS 9 inch power booster (brand new) SSBC rear disc brake kit stock front disc SSBC proportioning valve/distribution block Inline Tube stainless cables 3 pc stainless braided hoses from NPD SSBC slotted rotors front and back
  8. My build was originally going to be a matter of getting my car running so I could move out. I quickly realized it would take almost the same effort and money to do a quality build. Thankfully I came to this realization early in the build. My goal was to put the engine power in an area I could actually use which meant knowing the limitations of the parts available at the time and the pains versus gains. I also wanted to achieve a good balance between all aspects of the car. Here is my build. Engine: 440 hp 408 lp/ft 351C with Australian 2V iron heads stock size valves, Holley HP series 750 CFM 4150, Custom hydraulic roller cam with matching springs, lifters, retainers, Screw in ARP studs. Comp Cams gold rockers, Edelbrock RPM air gap Performer intake, hypereutectic pistons, high volume oil pump, stock rods and crank, Moroso windage tray and oil pan, Pioneer balancer, MSD billet/low profile distributor, MSD 6AL2 box, MSD coil, K&N 14x3 inch air cleaner Transmission: TKO 600 conversion which bolted up with no cutting, McLeod 26 spline clutch disc and pressure plate, Hurst 10 inch shift lever with Hurst T handle, stock Z-bar with custom clutch linkage rods and solid rod ends (no clutch linkage play….at all) and stock flywheel Rear end: Moser 31 spline axles, Truetrac differential with 3.75 gears Front suspension: Moog R series upper and lower arms, solid strut rod, Scott Drake 1" lowering coils w/ 3/4 urethane spacer, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, 1 1/8 sway bar, black rock 997 15x7 wheels, bfGoodrich 235/60-15 tires Rear: Scott Drake 5 leaf regular eye springs, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, Energy suspension urethane bushing kit, Total Control Products 3/4 adjustable rear sway bar, Traction Master bars, black rock 997 15/8 wheels, bfgoodrich 255/60-15 tires Front brakes: SSBC slotted stock replacement rotors with SSBC semi metallic pads, new stock replacement calipers from NPD, stainless braided flex hoses with matching rear hose (NPD), stainless custom bent hard lines, SSBC adjustable proportioning valve/distribution block, STOCK replacement master cylinder, GPS brand new 9" power booster Rear Brakes: SSBC A111-2 disc brake kit with slotted rotors, custom bent hard lines, Inline Tube stainless steel brake cable (inner cable on short piece 2 1/2" longer to accommodate brake kit) Steering: Quick ratio (14:1) steering box, rare parts pitman arm, Proforged severe duty idler arm, Moog ends on stock drag link. Chassis: Stock strut tower braces, Tin Man subframe connectors Aero/Body: NPD front air dam, NPD rear spoiler, window louvers (mostly for looks and heat control) but they do improve the aerodynamics. The only thing I did not do myself was the engine rebuild. Every other thing on this car was done by my two hands, with basic tools, in a garage over the period of a year. My plan is to fabricate a strut tower brace with integrated monte carlo bar as well as reinforce the front upper and lower control arms for added security. I did not go with front urethane bushings on the arm due to vibration control on bad roads being more of a priority than bushing deflection. My build was low cost but practical. I have been up to 90 mph and the car is very stable. It brakes straight and drives straight. The steering is not as quick as I would like but I am planning to address that in the near future. Regardless of this, the handling is great at both low speeds and high speeds. The engine is more than lively and plays a symphony that warms gasoline bleeding hearts. The transmission is smooth, crisp and has a great mechanical feel. The only thing that would be considered an issue is it grinds slightly when I shift into reverse. To avoid this, I put it in first gear then into reverse. My goals were very high because of my love for speed and the type of cars driven through the years and I am very thankful I exceeded them. Overall, I love driving my Mach 1. It handles great, sounds amazing and more importantly, I am very happy with the results which exceeded my expectations. I am more than happy to go into greater detail about any part of my build. Along the way there were doubts and difficult days, but I stayed focused, visited the forums here and reminded myself of why I was doing it. I would not have had the success I accomplished without the answers and motivation I found here. Once again, thank you to everyone and I hope to be helpful to you all now and in the future.
  9. I would like to extend a thank you to everyone who has answered my posts and those who shared their pictures and stories that gave me the motivation to keep going. My Mach 1 is very much a part of myself and those that read my introduction thread understand why. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-greetings--23785 Last year I was going through a divorce that made me lose my garage. I worked on my car so much, I was beyond exhausted, but my Mach 1 was very much worth the effort. During moments of trying to solve a problem or needing information regarding things that I did not know, you guys helped me a great deal. A year later, my car was up and running, better than new. Two weeks after it hitting the road, I moved out of the house and into an apartment with my 08 GT and my 72 Mach 1. Thankfully my buddy was more than welcoming when I asked to go to his shop so I could have a place to work on my car despite being low on business and stressed out. It worked out perfectly because he is in metal fabrication and I needed someone to weld the subframes and a spacer on the car. I truly can't thank him enough. That leads me to my car now being done mechanically. The next thing is the weatherstripping and interior. For now, it's a matter of finally getting over my recent drama, adjusting to my new life as a single dad to an amazing little boy and enjoying my beast of Mach 1. It is fast and it handles so well that I can use all of my power, which is a great thing. I will post my specs when I have a little more time. For now, here are some pics of my build and the sleeping beast. how to upload photos to internet
  10. I took this picture just before installing the traction bars, which is why you cant see them. This is my ride height after the suspension settled.
  11. I called Inline Tube company and ordered their stainless parking brake cable. I ordered mine with the shorter of the two pieces, 2 1/2 inches longer "inner cable". I also used their cable that goes from the parking brake pedal to the adjuster in stainless from them. It fit perfectly with by rear SSBC kit and the third cable came with the sausage seal that goes through the floor board.
  12. I am HUGE on handling and braking. These two aspects of the car determine how much power you will actually be able to use. With that said, quality will cost some money, for the most part. I drive on horrible roads which require things from the suspension, as opposed to a track car. My mentality is build it for what you will do most with it. In my case it's spirited driving on actual roads. Here is my set up Front: Moog R series upper and lower arms, solid strut rod, Scott Drake 1" lowering coils w/ 3/4 urethane spacer, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, 1 1/8 sway bar, black rock 997 15x7 wheels, bfGoodrich 235/60-15 tires Rear: Scott Drake 5 leaf regular eye springs, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, Energy suspension urethane bushing kit, Total Control Products 3/4 adjustable rear sway bar, Traction Master bars, black rock 997 15/8 wheels, bfgoodrich 255/60-15 tires Front brakes: SSBC slotted stock replacement rotors with SSBC semi metallic pads, new stock replacement calipers from NPD, stainless braided flex hoses with matching rear hose (NPD), stainless custom bent hard lines, SSBC adjustable proportioning valve/distribution block, STOCK replacement master cylinder, GPS brand new 9" power booster Rear Brakes: SSBC A111-2 disc brake kit with slotted rotors, custom bent hard lines, Inline Tube stainless steel brake cable (inner cable on short piece 2 1/2" longer to accommodate brake kit) I also installed Tim Man Fabrications sub frame connectors which ended up working perfectly with the Traction Master bars. If you decide to go this route, call Chuck at Traction Master and let him know for the frame mount, you only need the right angle tab. Otherwise he will weld on a longer base plate to the front mount. This mounts directly to the back side of the subframes. If you use different rear springs, hold off on the order of the traction bars until the springs are installed and have settled. The ride height will determine where the bars are mounted due to their need to sit parallel to the ground to work properly. From this point, you will need to measure for custom length traction bars or just take it to his shop in Burbank and he can help you out with the length needed. I did quite of bit of experimenting, talking to companies and spending on different parts until I found what works for my purpose, which is a more urban based performance in a grand touring style car. We can still take it on the track and hold our own though. I did not go cheap but I did not buy something expensive or fancy because it's what the cool kids are using. Everything I have done is practical and is meant to be put on a car that will be driven with fun, performance and safety in mind. I can list the parts I have tried and did not like for my build if you would like. I am also more than happy to answer any questions you might have. I will post some pictures in a bit. Hope this helps.
  13. Personally, I prefer Moog R series upper and lower control arms. For the strut rod, I went with a solid strut rod to get a crisper feel in the suspension and steering. Another option for strut rods is to use a stock style rod with Meier Racing bushings which will give you a more desirable caster settings during spirited driving. As a cruiser, you most likely not feel a difference. You can also reinforce the Moog arms to flex less by welding plates to the side of the uppers and boxing the lowers. With this there are two options, do it yourself and maintain the rubber bushing or buy them reinforced and boxed from Meier and get what appear to be roller bushings on the uppers. I place great emphasis on the chassis tuning so you can actually put the power to the road and get rid of sloppiness where possible. I would be more that happy to share more details on my set up if you wish. I was originally going to upgrade to coil overs later, but I am more than happy with how my set up performs so I am staying with what I have.
  14. I would highly recommend the Proforged idler arm, which is guaranteed for "a million" miles, part #102-10076. It appears to have been discontinued by the company but I'm sure there are some still floating around. It is classified as a severe duty part and while I haven't driven it in a severe fashion, I am very happy with it. It is also greasable. I used the rare parts #20250 for years and I was happy with it. Even though it was shaped differently, mine maintained the factory geometry. I even have a new piece (#20250) I bought before finding the proforged piece. I put that one in storage in case I ever need it.
  15. I read tko 600's sometimes have an issue with high rpm shifts so I got the carbon lining as well. Modem Driveline installed them prior to shipping but I haven't checked it because my trans and rear end are still breaking in. The way I liked at it is that it's extra insurance for durability. It wasn't much to have it done.
  16. From what I could find, the C6 transmission itself is 22.365 in. That is minus the bellhousing length. The TKO is just over 24 in, like you indicated. I would plan to buy a driveshaft to account for the possible cost. If things work out to where you don't need one, then it's money saved. In the end though, these specs are just theory. Until you have whatever bellhousing you choose along with the transmission installed, you wont know the exact number. What kind of clutch are you planning to use? Drive angle is the relationship between the vertical downward angle of the transmission with the vertical upward angle of the differential pinion. The ideal setting is to have the same numerical spec with opposite value (-2, +2) so they cancel out when operating. Bruce set me up with a kit that should've given me a THEORETICAL 4 degrees of trans drive angle. After installation, it was 5. This can be expected because of anything from ride height front and rear, to the age and wear on the vehicle and components themselves, like engine and transmission mounts. I couldn't lessen it because I didn't have more clearance between the trans and tunnel. My transmission drive angle before the conversion was 2 as well as my pinion angle. I bought 2 degree shims (basically a metal wedge) from Summit to install between the leaf spring and differential housing and after installing them I got 4.5 degrees. Again, THEORETICALLY I should've gotten 4 at the rear, but the 4.5 worked in my favor as it was closer to the 5. The accepted tolerance is usually 1 degree difference. So far I have no issues whatsoever with the drivetrain. With the low profile TKO that Modern Driveline sells now, you might be able to get 2 degrees and not need shimming. If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask.
  17. I am using a Moroso T pan with matching pickup. The pan itself is flush with the undercarriage and the clear zinc finish looks great.
  18. I thought of that option myself but what stopped me from considering it as a serious option was the fact that it had not been released and had no release date from the factory. Now that it is out, I looked at the specs, I am glad I went with my TKO 600. If you already had a manual car, I would suggest to go for it due to the fact you have a bellhousing, clutch linkage, pedal assembly and driveshaft that should THEORETICALLY fit. I emphasize the key word because we have all bought parts designed for our cars or mods only to find out they will not work. Since you are starting off with an automatic, you will need to track these parts to work with a transmission's who's main draw is being a straight swap, defeating the purpose of this option to begin with. Also, the price of the McLeod is about 500 dollars more that a TKO for the transmission itself. For that price you can pay for some of the installation kit. Instead I would recommend a TKO 500 or 600 along with an installation kit. I personally did this (TKO 600) on my '72 Mach 1 (351C/4 speed toploader) earlier this year. I chose to go through Modern Driveline and was fortunate enough to deal with Bruce who listened to what I wanted to do and used that as a starting point. From my recent experience, I think these are the important things to consider. The cost will be relatively close with either option. Will you spend time hunting the other parts needed for the conversion or spend the money to get them in a kit, which are also brand new parts? Tremec's have been around for a while and have been tested on both the street and the track. In my experience, I did not need any cutting to fit the TKO in my car. Not only that, Modern Driveline now makes a low profile TKO with the casing strategically machined, which fits even better. Of course that was released after I bought mine, because that is my luck. Hopefully I have added some clarity to your decision. I mention Modern Driveline because that is who I went through and I was extremely pleased with Bruce's help. The other option is American Powertrain, who also offers a hydraulic clutch setup for our Mustangs. After the fairly straight installation and adjusting of the pinion angle of the rear end, I can cruise at 85 mph at around 2300 rpm and it's smooth as silk. I tend to be lengthy with my typing so I'll stop here but feel free to ask any questions or have me give more detail about my conversion.
  19. I agree with the above opinions on the hydraulic clutch being the better option for the reasons already brought up. It is what I am going to go with down the line on my '72 Mach 1. The kit I'm looking at is the American Powertrain. I have already done a TKO 600 conversion, which is a must for modern performance. If anyone has thought about it, DO IT. I cruise at 85 mph at about 2300 rpm and my engine sounds bored. If you are pressed for money, you could also modify the mechanical linkage for a more precise feel. I replaced the factory clutch rod and push rod with 1/2 steel bar and heim joint ends (found on Amazon.com of all places). There is absolutely no play or sloppiness. If anyone is interested I can detail it on a post. The only down side to my method is modern clutches only use about 1/3 of the pedal travel as our cars originally came with, so you don't actually work the clutch until the bottom five inches or so. You get used to it very quickly though.
  20. And the winner is!!!!!!! The reservoir retainer nut! I checked the mating surface of the fitting as well as the tube and they both looked good. The threads on the flare nut looked good as well. I took off the mounting bracket and tube retainer bracket and found the latter was a bit loose. I got to the reservoir retainer nut and it turned almost 1/4 turn. I reinstalled the pump, ran the engine and cycled the steering a bit and found the pump was dry. Once again, you guys are great! Thank you so very much!
  21. Thanks for the info. I'm going to get started in a bit and I'm hoping I just need to tighten the reservoir retaining nut. Like I mentioned, the pump is a brand new pump and it didn't leak for the first 70 miles. I'll keep everyone posted
  22. The nut went on easy. I always tighten by hand before using a wrench or ratchet. If it doesn't go on easy, I remove and start again.
  23. I installed a brand new (not rebuilt) Cardone power steering pump. The pump was good the last couple of days. Today i found a leak in the back of the pump. After wiping the fluid, it almost looks like the leak is from the threaded piece on the back of the pump and not the pressure fitting. The reason is the fluid seems to be on the pump side of the bracket nut. Has anyone ever had this happen to them? I will be working on the leak tomorrow and I hope I am able to fix it. It might be the fitting but I want to cover any and all possibilities
  24. Found the problem. The adapter plate was too deep and it rubbed the top of the hazard switch.
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