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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    73 convertible, 351c 2bbl,red/white roof.


  • Location
    boca raton,FL

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  1. waiting to hear from a local motor repair shop if it can be rewound to say 9-10 volts to increase rpm.
  2. Way too hot here in S Fl to put the top down in the day! Was hoping for a HO.new motor...
  3. My 73 convert has factory air. Works ok but Id like more airflow. Any suggestions?
  4. fixed....wires had come off slider switch .....
  5. So my blower fan switch was bad and I installed a new correct one but a couple of wires were off old one. Now, I have 3 speed fan but compressor doesn't come on. Ive obviously got wires mixed up. Anyone give me correct wiring for this switch? 2 on one side, 3 on other,
  6. Old one was stuck open, I recently put in a new manual one,made a lot of difference! In max cool, no air, in recirc, plus 1/2 inch to right, cold on start up....then poor after a few miles. Lower hot/cold cable works, upper one seems to work but nothing visible controlled!
  7. So, a couple years ago, changed from Freon to R134. Not a bad result, but in a 73 convert not great in S Florida. Car went in to shop for lots of leaks and problems. Came back with no a/c. So, they did evac and recharge and still no air (its 95 in the day) Told me the 2 after market cooling fans in front of rad are no good,so I went home to ponder.(and troubleshoot) Found the fan relay wires were not good contact, cleaned them and fans now work. Now,here's the problem,been like this a while,on first start from cool garage, I have cold air,pipe has condensation,water drips on ground from waste tube. After the car warms up, fans still run,pipe has condensate,water drips from waste tube but no cold air in cabin.Blower fan works on all speeds. I should point out the top lever on the a/c controller has to be just to right of min a/c.to get cold air first thing. Any advice ,please? UPDATE: Just did a 9 mile run,on I 95,at 65+mph. Had nice cold air all the way. Stopped for maybe 5 minutes, started up,drove home. Got warm air for first 4 miles, then not real cold last 5 miles. Stopped to check a/c hoses at 2 miles-cold with condensate. At home,finally, cold pipe, poor a/c but water dripping out from overflow. I DID manually push the door closed,as the cable was leaving 1/4 inch of switch rod out.(thats under the glove box.) Unit is definitely working, but I have to have the top lever about 1 1/2 inches to the right to get any air. Any clues here? Thanks, Adrian NEW UPDATE: a couple of hours later......quite a lot of water from a/c under the car,now. Is it possible its FREEZING up and now melting? Adrian
  8. Had mine upholstered about 10 years ago...looked bad so I bought the fiberglass repros about 5 years ago-dont look nice either. Any ideas where I can get a couple of good, pref white ,rear quarter panels? Thanks, Adrian
  9. on my 73 Cleveland 2bbl convert, on first start up. theres a graunching noise when I turn the wheel. Fluid level is fine on a hot check, and noise seems to go away as car gets hot. Any advice welcomed. Adrian
  10. 73 convert.2bbl cleveland, So, I am running down the I 95 a few days ago,beautiful FL fall day, top down, sons dog in front pass seat, cruising at 70 + ,such a great day I went past my exit on purpose.No probs. I had noticed a few drops of ? engine oil, or PS fluid on the garage floor over the last few outings-checked PS-fine. Went to the beach with family in 2 cars,Wednesday-dropped of my 3 and went to look for parking. On the way to beach, noticed pedal down a bit. Turned to park and brake light bulb went on and I lost 95% of braking. Crawled to my indy, 4pm....he found a burst(rusty?) rear brake line and a failed pressure switch. Had it fixed by the next day. I thought...could have happened at 75mph, the other day---could have been killed. Moral....check all new leaks.... Also, rear brake bulb(original ) is out, BTW, seems to have ? yellow paint on it but the glass is black with age....Is it a regular 1157 bulb? Adrian
  11. But my 73 vert has rear overriders and a horizontal rubber strip in the bumper.....
  12. [attachment=3373][attachment=3373]Had my 73 in a new shop for the following: 1.Alignment and wheel balance...alignment was fine, all wheels way out of balance. 2.ADD a ground wire....as I drove in, all electrics failed!Car never had a good ground! 3.Redo timing and fix vacuum leaks at carb .Fix smell of gas.The gas cap had NO gasket. They found one and its fixed. 4.A/c runs for a few mins, as car gets hot, it disappears. This was the biggie for me. Ive had THREE shops look at this. Phil evac and refilled the R134 and showed me(after I've had the car about 25 years) how to put the slider from max to fresh and it works! Also, we felt that the manual shut off valve was open(seized) and letting hot water into the heater and the cabin was HOT.At his suggestion, I went to Home Depot,bought a brass 1/2" ball valve,note the two heater hoses were different sizes-5/8 and 3/4 I bought 2 screw to bayonet 1/2 x 1/2 fittings and used teflon tape for the oversized hose and clamped it down well. Voila-I have cold air all the time and its 90 degrees here in S.Florida today. BTW, the old manual valve was stuck FULL open! Adrian
  13. looking for a/c heater inside controls,ie switch gear, Adrian, FL
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