basstrix

Did you sneak into my garage and take those out of my car? J/K, but they are nearly identical to what's in my car...right down to the tear on the lower cushion. :) Good luck with the sale! Seems like a very reasonable price.

Thanks Don, I'll check in with Midlife. Mustang Guru, I don't know if there's a difference, I just noted mine's a sportsroof incase there was.

I'm interested in either a repop or very good condition OEM tail light harness. Wasn't there someone on the board that made repops? Thanks, BT

Looks to be in pretty good shape!

I'm wondering if they used 71/72 fenders and valance with a 73 bumper?

Thanks Kevin, much appreciated!

Kevin, When you align the panel to cut both simultaneously, do you offset the panel downward slightly to compensate for the width of material that gets cut away (kerf)? I'm finally working on the sheet metal on my mustang and find your post, and those like it, very very helpful. Thanks, BT

I have 2 71 ranchero projects and a parts car. Progress has been slow this summer...I don't know if it's the heat or me getting old lol ...anyway, I'll be back in force when it cools down. Post pics if you get it.

Welcome from AZ!

It may be that the level of manifold vacuum is greater than ported. If you have a vacuum gauge, you can answer that quickly. The premise is that you haven't adjusted the canister enough to back off the max advance at the (suspected) higher vacuum level.

Excellent progress.

The *4 heads are not necessarily open chambered but they may have a slightly larger (up to 3 cc's) chamber....my guess...and it's just a guess...is that you have one D0AE-N head and one D1AE-GA head. No biggie to have that mixture. To know for sure what you have, you need the casting number and the date code. You have to pull the intake and use a mirror to get the casting number...the date code is under the valve cover. Date code is likely sufficient to say whether it's close or open chamber.

He's using the blue positive seals, but didn't specify if they are all viton or have the teflon ring that contacts the valve guide. I totally agree...those 1 piece teflon seals are junk...very hard to get them on without distorting them.

Yep, I know the rocker stud holes don't protrude into the ports on the iron heads...which is why I speculated that someone would have to have bored the holes too deep for that to be a path for oil. My comment wasn't at all clear. I have not worked with the P51's or the Ford Motorsport SCJ's and wasn't aware that they do...but that explains why I've read about that particular path. When I was a kid, I rebuilt an XR500 motorcycle engine....I put the 2nd piston ring on upside down...it ran fine but smoked really bad. Let's hope that's not the case here....lots of oil on the rings can make

Also...when you ran without PCV, how long did you run it (I asked this before but don't recall a response....forgive me if you already answered)? You need to drive it around for at least a half an hour to get a clear signal of whether or not it made a change.....when you said it only has 150 miles on it, it made me think that you may not have given it enough time w/o PCV to make a clear call.