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Stanglover

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Stanglover last won the day on October 27

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About Stanglover

  • Rank
    Mustang Guru

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.

Location

  • Location
    SW Ontario
  • Region
    Canada

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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  1. I'm sure you've seen my pics of the fuel line I made up for my car. It did take me a couple of tries to get what I wanted and to keep the line at least 1" off the block. I also used as short piece of injector rubber hose to connect to the pump, a, as an easy connection and b, as a vibration buffer. Anyway, these aren't the best pics, but might lead you in the right direction. I used 3/8" copper lined steel fuel line 36" long with 3/8NPT fittings on both ends. I just cut one off. img 0985 is the "around the back" PCV tube I made to make it look more correct.
  2. As long as icejawa doesn't mind the extra 3" length. The one shown would be for the flex tube with the clamp band. The question I would ask is; does the vacuum motor work and does the temp sensor open the flapper when hot. With vacuum applied to the motor via the temp sensor, it can be tested with the use of a heat gun or hair dryer. The problem is those little parts cost a ridiculous amount of money aftermarket should they need replacing.
  3. That could well be yours too. Just a little, well a lot, of work and patience. It's all in the details. On the engine paint, I forget the paint code number for the Duplicolor, just make sure it High Heat Engine paint and buy and extra can of the SAME batch. I have found slight variations between batches, no matter what brand.
  4. When I did mine in 2016, the 2K was 25 (Cdn) bucks/can, but imo worth it. Like I said, once mixed, use it or lose it. On mine, I too had some original stickers, but mine was in need of a repaint. Here's a couple of pics, before and after. Any tips, just ask, not that I'm an expert painter, far from it, but the results got me this. (ok, I'm bragging a bit now)
  5. Ricard, No comments on the engine, but perhaps some tips on the engine bay. Your bay looks pretty good as is, so it will be easy to clean up and prep for a repaint. My suggestion is to use Eastwood under hood paints. I chose Eastwood 2K ceramic semi gloss black, but this stuff isn't cheap and you'll need 2-3 cans. Once mixed, you have to use it or chuck it. It does have a bit of texture, but I find it is easily cleaned and is standing up very well. Downside is it's not easy to touch up and the non 2K equivalent is not an exact match. I used Eastwood chassis black for all other frame parts etc.
  6. I can't be sure on the earliest year either, but I know the extension and the inlet adaptor were definitely on 73's. They were made in Chatham and I remember working with them doing engineering changes. That was when I started work at Fram in March of 73. We only made the inlet tubes, vacuum motors and sensors. The shells were mostly made by Ford (or a supplier) elsewhere, but with Fram tooling to the best of my recollection.
  7. Just a note, that one has the extension at the a/c base, plus it has the cold air rib to attach the cold air inlet tube. 71's didn't have that.
  8. Ditto what Vicus said. All the best friend.
  9. Although the car is tucked away for winter, I did finally get some information from ADDCO in a live chat session (they never returned my emails) and they confirm that moving forward for the 71-73 Mustangs, the revised rear anti-sway bar design, thanks to Jpaz, will be available from 2/14/21. It actually reads "all 990's currently in stock and that are produced going forward are this revised design". That's a bit vague to me so I'll bet on the February date. I also suggested that they update their listing to reflect the "Revised design" and that has been forwarded to whom ever deals with that.
  10. Going through some of my old threads, I noticed I never closed this one off. Since the last update, I've been keeping an eye on that small leak from the right rear hub. When I was replacing the springs, I took the drum off and thankfully, the leak seems to have stopped. I will continue to monitor it, but I'm confident it is nothing to worry too much about. AND, the stink has stopped too!!
  11. Well, I've been trying to get more info out of this guy, but going nowhere. I'm certainly not interested in them nor chasing for more info, so I'm closing this post.
  12. Wish I'd thought of that back when I was working. The boss would always bitch at anyone who broke a tap in a workpiece. Usually had to drill em out with a 2 flute carbide drill........ then hope for the best!
  13. Not necessarily, the repo that was on my car was made of ABS and much lighter than the Ford one I now have on. I had to increase the tension to max. I agree, some aftermarket spoilers might be heavier the some others. It also might depend on whether the spoiler has been placed in the correct position.
  14. Here's wish all my American friends a very Happy Thanks Giving. Please all stay safe and healthy in these terrible times we find ourselves in. I want to come back and visit next year when hopefully the border will reopen. Geoff
  15. WATCH your fingers!!!! Use vise grips or similar,
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