Jump to content

Stanglover

Site Supporters
  • Content Count

    3981
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Stanglover last won the day on August 31

Stanglover had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

225 Excellent

1 Follower

About Stanglover

  • Rank
    Mustang Guru

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.

Location

  • Location
    SW Ontario
  • Region
    Canada

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

253 profile views
  1. I see in another post of yours, both Don and Chuck are recommending the Summit M2008 600 cfm. I don't have experience with 302's, so follow their advice.
  2. Very nice car there Rocketfoot, but why the heck do you want to put a Edlebrock carb on it? Personally I don't even like the look of them as they look to me, like they're mounted sideways! They may be a good carb, but I do know a few people who have had these on their car and later changed them. A carb that many seem to really like (Hemikiller for instance) is the Summit Racing's https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08750vs, but you'll only need the 650 version. AND it's likely way cheaper!!! Just my 2 cents worth, take it or leave it.
  3. Spike, that's an interesting read and good information for myself and others. Going back to my comment about fuel boil off, percolation, vaporizing or what ever term one wants to use, I know that blocking off the cross-over dropped the intake temp by many degrees under the carb and I have had zero problems since in that regard. I do use a 1" fiber spacer under the carb. to a) aid with keeping the carb cooler, and b) the bores on the 670 are larger than the intake opening, so I taper bored the 4 holes to suit. This not only gives "supposedly" more torque, but allows the butterfly's to cl
  4. Spike, my thoughts back when I got my car (from California) which had the carb changed from the 4300 (which I got with the car) to the Holley 670, was to try to eliminate the fuel boil-off and hard hot starting it was experiencing. You likely read other posts describing this issue and my solution, which has worked very well. I had tried insulator gaskets, but those did not give the results needed. I tried plugging the two holes at the carb base, but still not enough. The only viable option was to block off the cross-overs completely, but with the heat involved, a thin steel plate wasn't going
  5. Yeah, sorry you got ripped. If you want a mini console, I have one that is refreshed and ready to install. I'm in Canada, but if interested, PM me to work out price and shipping.. I have seen where others have taken a long console and shortened it by cutting it off at the ashtray and filling in the end, so if you can get a broken long console, but with a good front end, you could make your own and have the clock. Just a thought.
  6. That's great and a great find. I'd still weld in plugs on those cross-over's, totally not needed now and would keep all that heat from the carb., but it's your intake......
  7. That's great. Glad you bought from Bill. If you have ANY problems, he's there to help. I'm very happy with the LED's I bought from him. One question, did you buy the Elite Series II dash bulbs? Originally, I bought the Extreme series, but change them to the Elite as they are a lot brighter. ALSO. remember that you MUST keep an incandescent bulb in the ALT socket if you have idiot lights. This is VERY important. One other thing, these bulbs are polarity specific. Most if not all will be marked, so just make sure pos and neg are correct. All the best and enjoy a brighter life!
  8. I think my "guy' just used the gasket as I didn't see any sign of sealant. If you do want to used a sealant, my choice would be "The Right Stuff" from Permatex. It ain't cheap, but will never leak. I think you can buy it in a tube in the US. Hopefully you bought Ford friction modifier from a dealership's parts dept. It stinks to high heaven, so don't get any on you. Add it before the gear lube. Rotate the axles by hand a few times to get it all through the cogs. I mentioned before to put the bottles in HOT water to warm up the oil or you'll be there all night. Good luck.
  9. Hello and welcome from SW Ontario, Canada. Learn what you can, contribute what you want to.
  10. Yes, your car is a 63R (fastback) Now, not to alarm you too much as you have to order (probably from the USA), back in 2014 when I had my Mach repainted, I decided I wanted to replace the windshield as the old one (not original) was heavily pitted. The shop owner bought in a local company to replace the glass. It took 6 windshields before they got one that fitted. Chinese crap as usual! some had too much curve, others not enough and you can't bend a windshield!! As for side glass, I needed one replaced, but I bought a good used one. Quarter lites are available. Not sure about the back gl
  11. Hmm, got you fooled eh! I always say that I'm no expert at anything, but I do try to pass on what I have learned over the past 12 years of owning my current Mustang and from the guys on here that really do know what end is up. I also try to make reading at least somewhat interesting. Thanks for the compliments
  12. I notice it has the heat stove opening for the choke as well as the exhaust cross-over passage, but not the channel in the carb base that was there on 4V 351C's. If it were mine, I'd weld plugs into the passages and make a "cap" to go over the heat stove port, just to make it look authentic. Damn nice find there.
  13. I missed mentioning that when you tap those holes, to use some grease on the tap to prevent bits getting into the engine via those passages. A 5/16 -18 tap should fit the hole without the need for drilling. I also missed mentioning I used a small amount of exhaust cement on the set screws as the hole on mine were a bit over the 1/4" hole size for a 5/16-18 thread. Just a precaution.
  14. There was still too much heat under the carb. The set screws prevented the hot gases, but didn't do much to stop the excessive heat even with a 1" fiber spacer that I also use now. (it's supposed to increase torque!!) An alternative of course is to buy an aftermarket intake like the Blue Thunder that everyone seems to like.
  15. Two ways, well three if you just want to do it the quick way. First, the heat passage was intended to warm the Autolite 4300 carb and that was made for that purpose. If you're using a Holley or other newer carb, a base gasket with the metal insert (like a sandwich) will not be enough and carb overheating (and damage) may occur. Without blocking off the heat passage, I was having trouble with fuel percolation from excessive heat under the carb. I had installed a Holley Street Avenger 670 (4v) as well as a 1/4" insulator gasket with the metal insert gasket underneath, but it was not enough.

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

7173logo_small.png

Site Info

Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

×
×
  • Create New...