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Stanglover

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Stanglover last won the day on August 27

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About Stanglover

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    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.

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    SW Ontario
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    Canada

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    Male

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  1. Wow! Apart from the factory tach, it shows to be almost exactly the same as my 71 M code. Date code 02/71 (22) Why Ford chose NOT to put a tach on ALL 4 speed cars is beyond me. It's a MUST HAVE as far as I'm concerned. Looking forward to see the pics, but alas, I'm not interested in buying it. I hope you get what it's worth. Good luck.
  2. I'm making an assumption here as I really have no idea on this issue, but I'm thinking IF the pink resistance wire is still in the circuit and is powered (check with volt meter), the tach itself is somehow not getting voltage, again check with volt meter. I would think that as you are going to run your Pertronix directly off a relay, then you can separate the old coil connection from the system. Does that make sense?
  3. It's a separate purchase as far as I know, that's why I didn't get one!! You asked how I disconnected the pink resistor wire. I found the wire in the junction of the steering column harness and fuse block If I remember, been a while. I did not at that time, have those handy tools to unclip the pin connectors, so I used a very small flat blade screwdriver to unclip the pin. Then I just cut the resistor wire and terminated it, opened the crimp to remove the old bits of wire and soldered in the 12 gauge wire. There are not too many places to fish the wire through the firewall, so I think I just pushed it through beside another wire. It's a case of figure it out as you go I'm afraid. As for the choke wire, I'm not sure where the PO hooked it up, but I do know it's on a 12V keyed circuit. It works fine, so not a concern. I did however wrap all the new wire to the coil and choke etc. with loom wrap tape, just to make it look perdy. Somewhere, I have a diagram of the Pertronix relay, but where I don't know right now. I'm sure it is probably on their website. You may also find it here in a search.
  4. Well, that distributor doesn't look too bad. All the parts can be cleaned up including the plates. My concern would be the shaft busing. Can you feel any side movement in it? The bushing can be replaced, but you'd need a press of some sort. As you've decided to install a Pertronix Ignitor III, I wish you luck with it. Time will tell I guess. Hopefully Pertronix have improved that stupid plastic bearing they had in there originally. Personally, I wouldn't trust it, but that said, the electronic part of it was pretty good as it also has a rev limiter. On a side note, I also had a PII bad right out of the box. The problem was, it sat on a shelf for 3 years and was just out of warranty and Pertronix would not honor it. That cost me $180 Cdn.! Doing it again, I'd go DuraSpark. As for the resistor wire, I pulled the terminal from the socket under the dash, cut the wire and replaced it with a 12g wire directly to the coil. I don't have a factory tach, so I did not have to worry about that issue. The electric choke had been wired by a PO, so I'm not sure where it is connected, but it works correctly, so I guess it's good. All the best,
  5. Good point John. A Pertronix Ignitor I can be run on reduce (resisted) voltage and stock coil. The PII (and PIII) NEEDS a full 12V and higher output coil. These can be run off a Pertronix relay without the need to cut out or bypass the old pink resistor wire.
  6. From my personal experience, do NOT buy the Ford version of the Ignitor III UNLESS there has been a major design change. A short back story. In 2012, I had my engine rebuilt. The builder installed an Ignitor III. I could never get the timing to be consistent. The car was put on a dyno and with a digital timing light, the timing could be seen drifting. Later, I had a friend put it on a distributor machine. We could easily see the problem. On the Ford version, with the plates, there is/was a crappy plastic "bushing" that the plates revolve around. This bushing was allowing the plates to not only move laterally, but up and down as well. The meant that the "air gap" that is supposed to be .030", was anywhere between about .010" to .050". After contacting Pertronix with this data, the distributor was returned and they replaced it with a Pertronix Ignitor II and a matching coil (VERY important!!). I'm NOT saying it is a bad unit electronically, but a poor mechanical piece of engineering. Now, to be honest, I have NOT looked at them in the last few years, so hopefully, they have re-engineered the plate bushing to a bearing. If this had a similar bearing as the DuraSpark distributor, it would be a good unit. MY advice, buy a Pertronix Ignitor II along with the matching coil. EDIT: Why not look at buying a DuraSpark. They can be bought set up and curved to your engine specs, but I forget the name, maybe Performance Distributors. Be aware of Chinese knock offs.
  7. Yes. If you do one part, do it all, but be mindful of how much you use. 1 quart will do it all if not wasted. If you have to go buy another kit it gets expensive plus when mixed, the unused portion will be junk.
  8. Yeah, but the problem with that is the suspension upgrades came out of MY pocket, the kitchen comes out of our house account, so basically still comes out of my pocket!
  9. I hope it works for you. Let us know if there is any help you need.
  10. That's what I used on mine too. It's standing up really well after 7 years now. There is (or was) a Hot-Rod clear coat for it as well. I did not use it, but I think it would have been beneficial except for the added thickness at the hood edges. Here's the nitty-gritty, i.e. factory dimensions. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/32908-measurments-for-hood-black-out/?do=findComment&comment=338133
  11. I've been stripping out the old kitchen down to the studs. Just got the electrical re-wiring done at an exorbitant price (thanks Covid). Now to start re-insulating the outside walls and drywalling. Then the wait for the new cupboards........ which are already behind schedule. If only the wife did not start watching HGTV!!!! Meanwhile, the Mustang sit in the garage waiting to get out for a romp.
  12. That piece of plastic looks pretty beat up unless it's just the way the picture make it look like. I too bought a dizzy that had the plastic sleeve and why I previously mentioned it might be a quick fix, but to be honest, I have no idea if it was a Ford thing or not. The problem with the sleeve is it does reduce the travel width, but it also acts on the other side, reducing the "at rest" position by the thickness of the plastic, if that makes sense. If it does work as a travel restrictor, then the total would depend on the thickness of the tubing wall. I'm still not sure that makes any sense, but hopefully you and others get the idea.!
  13. So glad we have a mathematician amongst us!! Thanks Kilgon. That could be a great help to others........... and myself.
  14. Do you have 15L? That is a very commonly used slot width. 30 degrees c/a + 6 initial = 36 total mechanical.
  15. A far better description. Edit: I should mention that I had to tig weld a wider slot on the outer side end, then file it to a dimension of .410". I don't remember where I found that number, but it is correct. This may be tricky for someone without access to a tig welder.
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