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Stanglover last won the day on July 6

Stanglover had the most liked content!

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About Stanglover

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    Mustang Guru

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.


  • Location
    SW Ontario
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  1. Mary Blue, Not to put pressure on you, but where are the pictures??? We LOVE pictures here. Here's mine, Geoff.
  2. That sounds awesome Barry, thanks.
  3. Hello Sarah and welcome from SW Ontario Canada. Trust me, not all Mustang owners in Germany are "unfriendly". There are several really great members on this Forum from Germany and I'm sure you'll be hearing from them soon. As for your car, it sounds like a good car, but like many, has been "upgraded". Add some pictures if you can. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we're here to help. Stanglover (Geoff)
  4. Hmmm! interesting. the little plate you show is for that flat bar spring which is also NOT included in the rebuild kits. Mine, if it was ever there, was missing, but the oval spring does have to be reused along with the plate. You can see where the oval spring once sat. I guess I'll have to check if my rear brakes actually need them and find a couple.
  5. That sucks John, So often the simple things we think we check, but later find out differently. Glad you found the culprit.
  6. It's in this pic. It's the automatic shoe adjuster I am by far not an expert on drum brakes, but always, always buy new hardware kits. They are cheap on Rock Auto.com Never use old stuff. These of course are the rears, but fronts are similar. The other small part, I'm not sure what that is, maybe on a different model than mine. Hope that helps.
  7. As you correctly say Eric, very doable to add or convert the factory 3 gauges. If a person has the factory gauges then probably the better option, However if one only has the panel and no gauges (missing as in my case), it was construction time. There are indeed many options to get aftermarket gauges in there and look like they were meant to be there, it's just a matter of finding what works for you.
  8. That's probably all you need, but don't be afraid to have a go at your existing carb as it's not too old. It may only need a good cleaning. It doesn't take much to gum up the works. Your choice of course, a little work or a load of money.
  9. Yeah, except I F'd up and put the oil gauge on the wrong side!! Oh well so be it.
  10. Yes indeed, why Grey? In the article, it related to the first Mach 1 flight of Concord in 1969 and the first 1969 Mustang Mach1 was named to reflect that. Concord was always white, but I guess someone at Ford decided to go with fighter grey instead. As I said in an earlier post, looks like polished primer! I would also have like to see the hood blackout more like the original 71/73. The proportions of that would look much better than that skinny thing they show now.
  11. For me, my first choice would be to have a go at the existing carb by stripping and cleaning everything, installing new filters and gaskets, float needles and seats, in other words drop a kit into it. There should be a number on it somewhere to identify it I would think. A basic strip and clean is not too hard to do, just take your time and pay attention. If that does not get you going, them it may be time to drop 3-400 bucks on a new carb.
  12. Hi Bentworker, There has been lots posted on gauges and gauge mods, if you care to search. In the meantime, my choice was a set of Bosch gauges as they look somewhat similar to the factory ones. I did construct bracketry to mount them. for now, here's a couple of pics. There are lots of options out there that will or can be made to fit and look good. Again, my choice was for oil and temp as mechanical plus a volt meter. I also kept my idiot lights working by using dual senders.
  13. Just wishing all my American "friends" on the Forum a happy 4th of July. have a safe and enjoyable day. Stay away from beaches, stay in your garage and work on your car, or go for a nice drive with the wife. (or whom ever!) Geoff.
  14. I think what you're really looking at is this. The material would be supplied with a paint finish applied. I'm assuming the base metal is aluminum, but as I have not had one actually in my hand, that's my guess. No matter, the result is the same. When the numbers are struck, it stretches the material and in that process, the base metal will show through. So in a nutshell, the background is a paint of some sort, maybe e-coat or even powder coat, or.... and the numbers are raw material. So the trick will be to duplicate that look.

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