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Stanglover

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Stanglover last won the day on November 1

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    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.

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    SW Ontario
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    Canada

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    Male

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  1. Ah, that would be Flowmaster 40's I assume. Mine gave me a headache between 2500-3000, so now I have Flowmaster FX, some drone, no headache.
  2. ........... it's called a recording and huge freakin speakers in the back!!!
  3. Save it as jpg. Then you can post as a picture. You might have to rescan it to your computer and save as a jpg. depending on your system. My scanner gives me a choice, jpg or pfd.
  4. Kudo's to 71ProjectJunk. Good info there. Yes, before you pull that assist spring from under the dash, make sure of the clutch type, but I suspect diaphragm. As far as bushing in the link rods, do you have any machinist skills or able to ream out the holes to fit bronze oilite bushings? If you are, I highly suggest going that route as they will far outlast the plastic ones and give a far better feel. Go back to the pdf downloads I posted earlier. Below is the type of bushing I'm suggesting. These ones are the wrong size, but will give you an idea. The size you need is 3/8 x 1/2 x 1/2" (4 required I think) and 1 FL43-4, but no size listed on my receipt. These are Flanged Oilite bushings. For the life of me, I do NOT remember if I had to build up the steel around the bushing holes, I don't think so, but be warned that might be needed. Still worth it though. Oilite Bushing.pdf
  5. Oh boy indeed. Yep, that spring is in there!! The spring on the fork to push rod is definitely not correct either. I don't recall you saying exactly what clutch you have in the car. I'm assuming it's a diaphragm style, not the original long finger type. That's important to know. If you have the newer diaphragm clutch, that spring has to be removed and your problems will go away. However, correct set up is crucial as I'm sure you're aware. Unfortunately, these do not allow for perfect pedal height adjustment and get full travel. On mine, I have to have the pedal set as high as possible, but I still need full travel to the floor boards to ensure the clutch is fully disengaged to stop grinding the gears. It's a pity no-one has come up with a hydraulic clutch mechanism that is a direct replacement for the Z bar crappy set-up we have to use. I know there are aftermarket clutch replacement kits, both hydraulic and cable, but I don't think there is one to replace just the Z bar and linkages. That would be really nice to have! Good luck and let us know how it works out.
  6. I wish I'd know about that trick when I did mine. Actually imo, the absolute best way to do this is to remove the entire hanger bracket and take it out, replace the stupid plastic bushings on the clutch shaft with a bearing kit, Mustang Steve's or Scott Drake. While at it do the brake pedal shaft bushings as well. Yeah, it's lot of work that is best done during a restoration.
  7. Well, I couldn't resist now the cat is out of the bag so to speak. While I am a die-hard Mustang fan, I do like the Corvettes as well as many MoPar's and even some Chevy's of other sorts My best buddy is a die-hard Corvette fan, but that doesn't stop us going cruising together. He has two babies, a 75 convertible and his new 2021 C8.
  8. I hope you check out the frame (Chassis) on that baby.
  9. Same thing, build up with ABS. These areas are down where they're not too visible, so finish is not such a concern. Paint with SEM Trim Black after a good cleaning. IF you really want to do a proper repair, you could buy a Seelye Hot Air welder in the self contained kit. Mine is a model 63 the newer version I believe is 2001FC. Search Seelye Acquisitions Inc.
  10. Damn, and I was going to sell you my Mach 1!! You've gone to the "Other Side" May the force be with you.
  11. About the clutch pedal "pop". This is what I know from my own learning experience. When I bought my car back in 2008, I found a PO to the guy I bought it off, had installed a new diaphragm clutch of unknown brand. The pedal was doing exactly what you describe. This unknown brand clutch would slip badly if I jumped on it, I guess it was too weak. So, in 09, I replaced it with a Centerforce II, had the flywheel reground (very important!) and set it all up, but the "pop" was still there, in fact worse, the pedal would stay down to the floor. So I did some research and was in contact with Centerforce via email. That's when I found out that the old helper spring HAD to be removed. These were necessary for the long finger style clutches. If one replaces a clutch with a new long finger clutch, leave that spring there!! To remove this spring was not easy working from the top, dash pad removed. There is a ton of pressure on these springs, so be VERY careful removing it. I ended up cutting the damn thing out with a Dremel and cut-off disc. After this was removed, the clutch pedal worked as it should. In fact, as I'm a short ass, I needed the clutch pedal higher so I can get enough travel without being too close to the steering wheel To do this, I modified the pedal stop rubber, see attached diagram. Oh how I wish these cars had adjustable steering columns!! On the noise you're getting. Not to say this might be your issue, but when my new clutch was put in by a mechanic (I have no hoist to do it myself) I was getting some noise and a bit of sticking. So we pulled the trans again to find that one of the spring clips that hold the throw-out bearing to the fork, had broken off, causing the bearing not to travel straight on the input shaft.. On the throw-out bearing, that was a new replacement style and pretty cheap looking. My solution was to buy just the bearing from a local bearing supply dealer and replace the old bearing in the original Ford cast carrier. Problem solved. Clutch set-up.pdf Clutch bushing sketch.pdf
  12. Nice, but not at that price. Granted, if the guy has indeed spent a lot of money tooling and developing this part, he needs to make some sort of profit, but by his description, the price will be going up. The NPD version will be just fine for my car.
  13. By the way, just throwing this out there, I have a set of NOS still in the (crappy) boxes front shocks part # AX-201. D1ZZ-18124-E if anyone wants them. No idea if they're any good mind you. PM me if interested and we'll come up with a plan.
  14. That's pretty much the way mine rides on Gas-A-Just shocks. In fact if I hit a large pothole, bump or whatever, it sounds like a metallic clunk, like something is loose and hitting hard, which it is not. QA1's are a little pricy for my current budget.
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