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Stanglover last won the day on June 11

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About Stanglover

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    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.


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    SW Ontario
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  1. It is possible to buy a seal rebuild kit and do it yourself from RockAuto.com. The trick is getting it back together and set up correctly. If you have doubts about doing it, overall it might be better to bite the bullet (again) and buy a new or rebuilt PS box already done. If that were to be the case, you might want to get one that is converted to fast 12.7:1 ratio. I've done my own V/R boxes, so have no experience with companies like Red Hat or Powersteering.com I think it is. If you decide not to get a fast ratio, I would definitely get the variable 16 to 13:1 box, SPA-T or V. While you're in there, do the pump as well, then add new H/P hose and return hose. In other words, do it all, do it right.
  2. Wall art is good. Did NOT mean to ruffle your feathers, calm down. All is good.
  3. Good info Hemikiller, I got my fan and fan clutch from Summit Racing. Mainly because it was all in one place and shipping was simplified to Canada. As for bolts, yeah, you're right, they are a PITA. I bought G8 bolts from a local hardware store (TSC) I also used blue loctite on them and made sure the split in the washers was over the hub and not the slot, very important.
  4. Fabrice, I'm sure you've read before that I used to work at the plant in Ontario where many flex fans were made for different automakers, Ford included. I've personally seen the damage they can do WHEN they blow up on test rigs. These things can look perfectly fine on the outside, BUT you can not see what is happening on the inside where the grain within the steel is getting stressed to the point of fracture. This is when they blow up and there's NO warning. Certainly, not all flex fan blades will ever get to this point, but many have and been responsible for killing people. The condition may be caused where fracture is possible during the heat treatment cycle. Safest bet, get rid of it and NEVER use a used one from a junk yard or anyone else.
  5. Check out my video. This didn't post as I wanted. you may need to scroll tot he top to get the video.
  6. I think you'll find what I did to my car, will work for yours. If you need any more info or help, holla!
  7. Sounds great John. Glad you got it solved.
  8. I see, interesting. It seems there might be two different lengths available, 22 1/2" and 23 1/2" overall. Without comparing the two, I have no idea if the carb end or the cable end is different. That said, this is confusing, the old one I just took out would have only measured 21 1/2". The one I put in after shortening the pedal end by 1", fit the carb attachment end the same as the one I took out. I'm wondering if the vendors are selling the same cable for the 429 and the 351 (302). I've not looked at a specific 429 cable to know of any difference. I'm just wondering. Weird!
  9. Reading back, I assume we are talking front disc brakes so just throwing this into the mix. If it's NOT your M/C, have you considered the caliper pistons or the slide pins sticking. My son had this problem on his BMW, so we stripped the calipers and cleaned and re-greased (proper slide grease) the pins and problem solved.
  10. True, but maybe my problem was stomping on the loud pedal too hard, pushing the pedal deep into the carpet. It's a pity there is no way to adjust the free play on that cable to get proper function at both ends.
  11. I stand corrected by Chuck. On rechecking the information I had from when I installed my booster, I had misunderstood the instructions. That means my push rod is a little on the low side, but at least not causing drag. The manual talks about using a gauge, but I would think a M/C with the piston fully back could be used. With a gauge, it says there should be a 5 lbs pressure against the gauge, but does say exact contact is ideal. Go with that. When you drive, you say there is drag on the wheels. I assume you are talking about front wheels. Is there any excessive heat in the hub or wheel? Disc brakes will always drag a little bit, they're never fully off, so always very slight contact. If there is a lot of heat, something for sure is wrong. If you can still put your hand comfortably on the hub, it ought to be okay.
  12. I bet that corners really well........... not! There is a concrete company in town that has a pick up truck with tandem rear wheels. They use it to carry forms and other heavy stuff, but I think it was built more as an advertising piece. It certainly gets noticed.
  13. Ok thanks Tony. That is pretty close to my estimate within a 1/4". I think a possible reason why the eye end might have pull out ( I wish I could have found that piece!!) is there is no positive pedal stop at WOT. Even tough the carb stop is there, excess pressure on the pedal could be applied, straining the cable crimp. Again, thanks for measuring that for us. Great info to have imo.
  14. Tony, On the pre 7/10/72 cable, I've come to realize the critical length is from the inside of the firewall fastener to the center of the eye. On the one I just took out, I'm almost certain that the cable pull out as I see on this one, the little stop block thingy is right up against the "eye" as I'm calling it. The one I shortened is now the same. That length ought to be around 2 1/2" to 2 3/4". if you would like to confirm that, I'd appreciate it.
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