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Stanglover

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Stanglover last won the day on July 7

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About Stanglover

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    1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.

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    SW Ontario
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    Canada

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    Male

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  1. Adding to the above post, I forgot to add the 17.5:1 fixed ratio box tags generally used on non Mach 1's SPA-S or U or SPA-AD or AF after 1/2/73. Manual box tags; SMA-R = 22:1 1971, SMA-T =24:1 1972/73 or SMA-AC or AE >1/2/73
  2. 71-72 Sport lamp bulbs have to be grounded via a wire in the harness. The bulbs are different to other types. On the bottom, there are two contacts, 1 is power the other ground. On my car, I have switched all the lights to LED type including a special sport lamp bulb. Contac Bill at HiPoParts.com for the best LED's and accessories. Bill will only sell high quality stuff, not like on epay https://www.hipoparts.com
  3. Sport lamps are in the grill, the one below the bumper are running and turn signal lights.
  4. No idea about a write up per se, but I set mine so the push bar (from the Z bar) is very slightly loose, can be turned by your fingers. i.e. not too tight, not too loose. I do adjust and grease it periodically if needed. The pedal height is set by the stop on the bracket. Reminder; If you're installing a diaphragm style clutch, not the long finger style originally used, then the assist spring needs to be removed. Be careful doing this!!! Clutch set-up.pdf
  5. Sport Lamps per se are on 71 & 72 mainly Mach 1's as far as I know. Could they have been ordered on other model, I'm not sure, but definitely Mach 1's in the grill.
  6. I would recommend Oilite Bronze bushings similar to these, but if I remember in 3/8" ID. I replaced all the plastic bushing with Oillite bronze, but some work is needed for a correct fit. The result is a much smoother clutch operation and less effort. Oilite Bushing.pdf
  7. I saved the link for later reading. Thanks.
  8. Ah, so I wasn't wrong for a change. T is Metuchen as I thought. As Matt just said, if it is an H not an F then this is going to get interesting. I'm staying tuned!
  9. Agreed, The only panel on my car that had to be replaced is the taillight panel. The body guy welded them up, What a PTIA!.
  10. I could well be wrong as I often am, but somewhere in the back of my mind, I thought the Metuchen plant code was T not F as I thought that was only Dearborn. I can't lay my hands on that info right now re Metuchen. Also, the 429 was not only used in Mustangs and Cougars. I believe Torino's and T birds also got 429's before going to 460's. My question is, could that engine have come from a different model, or is it absolutely known to have come from a Mustang. ( confession time, I did not read all of this post)
  11. Or, maybe the wheel bearing are a little slack and just need to be tightened a smidge. I'd check that first. It looked like others were typing at the same time I was and with the same idea.
  12. No "ex-spurt", but yes, there are different ratios. A used PS box will almost certainly need a rebuild which is doable if you have the tools and the mechanical background to do it. There have been several threads on this by different members, Bentwork and myself included. Check the tag ID on your PS box. If it's a V/R, I'd look at rebuilding it first. These are heavy and shipping will be expensive. A variable ratio SPA-T or V (71-73) or SPA-AD or AF (after 1/2/73). V/R boxes are 16:1 to 13:1 is what you'd be looking for imo. Another maybe better alternative is to buy an upgraded box with 12.7:1 fast ratio. There are a few companies that offer these. Others can likely suggest the best one. While at it, definitely look at replacing the idler arm bushing or entire idler arm as well as the pitman arm. Other worn parts should be replaced at the same time if it were me. Ask for brand suggestions like Moog or Rare Parts. No cheapo Chinese stuff. More later if you need assistance.
  13. Thanks for telling us what you have motor wise. I am far from being an engine guy, but I don't think timing or a vac advance is your problem. A timing tic or knock won't sound like that. Also I can't help with Edelbrook stuff. Have you tried using a mechanics stethoscope to pin-point the tic? Also try 91 or high octane. My 10:1 comp motor does NOT like anything less! As for timing, these motors like more initial timing than the factory setting. Again, I'm familiar with a 4V M code, but I have 14 degrees initial plus 20 degrees crank timing and about 4-6 deg. vac advance with a Pertronix II and coil, Autolite 25 plugs. The carb is a Holley 670.
  14. Hmm! sounds like this thing will kill a few Hemi's when it's finally done.
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