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Everything posted by Stanglover

  1. Adding to the above post, I forgot to add the 17.5:1 fixed ratio box tags generally used on non Mach 1's SPA-S or U or SPA-AD or AF after 1/2/73. Manual box tags; SMA-R = 22:1 1971, SMA-T =24:1 1972/73 or SMA-AC or AE >1/2/73
  2. 71-72 Sport lamp bulbs have to be grounded via a wire in the harness. The bulbs are different to other types. On the bottom, there are two contacts, 1 is power the other ground. On my car, I have switched all the lights to LED type including a special sport lamp bulb. Contac Bill at HiPoParts.com for the best LED's and accessories. Bill will only sell high quality stuff, not like on epay https://www.hipoparts.com
  3. Sport lamps are in the grill, the one below the bumper are running and turn signal lights.
  4. No idea about a write up per se, but I set mine so the push bar (from the Z bar) is very slightly loose, can be turned by your fingers. i.e. not too tight, not too loose. I do adjust and grease it periodically if needed. The pedal height is set by the stop on the bracket. Reminder; If you're installing a diaphragm style clutch, not the long finger style originally used, then the assist spring needs to be removed. Be careful doing this!!! Clutch set-up.pdf
  5. Sport Lamps per se are on 71 & 72 mainly Mach 1's as far as I know. Could they have been ordered on other model, I'm not sure, but definitely Mach 1's in the grill.
  6. I would recommend Oilite Bronze bushings similar to these, but if I remember in 3/8" ID. I replaced all the plastic bushing with Oillite bronze, but some work is needed for a correct fit. The result is a much smoother clutch operation and less effort. Oilite Bushing.pdf
  7. I saved the link for later reading. Thanks.
  8. Ah, so I wasn't wrong for a change. T is Metuchen as I thought. As Matt just said, if it is an H not an F then this is going to get interesting. I'm staying tuned!
  9. Agreed, The only panel on my car that had to be replaced is the taillight panel. The body guy welded them up, What a PTIA!.
  10. I could well be wrong as I often am, but somewhere in the back of my mind, I thought the Metuchen plant code was T not F as I thought that was only Dearborn. I can't lay my hands on that info right now re Metuchen. Also, the 429 was not only used in Mustangs and Cougars. I believe Torino's and T birds also got 429's before going to 460's. My question is, could that engine have come from a different model, or is it absolutely known to have come from a Mustang. ( confession time, I did not read all of this post)
  11. Or, maybe the wheel bearing are a little slack and just need to be tightened a smidge. I'd check that first. It looked like others were typing at the same time I was and with the same idea.
  12. No "ex-spurt", but yes, there are different ratios. A used PS box will almost certainly need a rebuild which is doable if you have the tools and the mechanical background to do it. There have been several threads on this by different members, Bentwork and myself included. Check the tag ID on your PS box. If it's a V/R, I'd look at rebuilding it first. These are heavy and shipping will be expensive. A variable ratio SPA-T or V (71-73) or SPA-AD or AF (after 1/2/73). V/R boxes are 16:1 to 13:1 is what you'd be looking for imo. Another maybe better alternative is to buy an upgraded box with 12.7:1 fast ratio. There are a few companies that offer these. Others can likely suggest the best one. While at it, definitely look at replacing the idler arm bushing or entire idler arm as well as the pitman arm. Other worn parts should be replaced at the same time if it were me. Ask for brand suggestions like Moog or Rare Parts. No cheapo Chinese stuff. More later if you need assistance.
  13. Thanks for telling us what you have motor wise. I am far from being an engine guy, but I don't think timing or a vac advance is your problem. A timing tic or knock won't sound like that. Also I can't help with Edelbrook stuff. Have you tried using a mechanics stethoscope to pin-point the tic? Also try 91 or high octane. My 10:1 comp motor does NOT like anything less! As for timing, these motors like more initial timing than the factory setting. Again, I'm familiar with a 4V M code, but I have 14 degrees initial plus 20 degrees crank timing and about 4-6 deg. vac advance with a Pertronix II and coil, Autolite 25 plugs. The carb is a Holley 670.
  14. Hmm! sounds like this thing will kill a few Hemi's when it's finally done.
  15. I'm not the expert here, but if you don't mind, a few questions that will help the guys who know. What engine do you have in your Coupe? Why do you suspect the vac advance? Stock dizzy with points ? Please add as much info as you can about the motor. Has it been rebuilt. I do have some first hand experience with my 351C 4V M code. I had a lot of problems at first with timing, but over time, I learned how to sort it all out. Hence the questions.
  16. That's the way mine looked with 4 1/2 leaf Grab-A-Trak's, which I believe are Scott Drake, but I was never able to find a direct link. I know the shackle kit, steel 2/3rds the thickness of originals, that came with the springs were marked Scott Drake.
  17. Looking good, a great idea. Here in the US or Canada and likely the UK and Europe, we can have red or amber turn signals. This might be a good alternative if desired.
  18. One word of caution from my own personal experience, do NOT buy Grab-A-Trak springs. I bought the 4 1/2 leaf in an attempt to stop the rear axle wrap-up I was getting. They actually raised the rear end too much and for me, looked stupid. I made a set of lowering blocks hoping they would settle to where I could take them out, but no. I'll not go over this again, but I ended up scrapping them in favor of Eaton Boss springs. The cost reflect the quality. There are a few "types" of steel used for springs, but trust me, the cheap ones are NOT 5160 spring steel. Some claim to be 4140 which is a semi hard steel used in some tool and die areas. It is not a spring steel. I suspect if they are made in India, you're getting steel from a cut up ship, who knows! Bottom line, I paid twice as much if not more because I bought new springs TWICE!! NPD also sell Eaton springs.
  19. Trust me, I know all about being stressed over pulling the rear end out (for a rebuild) and replacing springs and shocks. BUT believe me, it is pretty damn easy. Just make sure the car is fully supported on a good set of high jack stands. Place then just ahead of the front spring bushing. A good 3 ton floor jack will be a big help under the "pumpkin". Do one side at a time. Follow the instruction in Eaton's video to the letter. As for what spring you want, that depends on how you want to drive the car. Yours is a 73 Q code, so I think it ought have the Competition 138 lbs springs. I'm not familiar with 73's. I chose the Boss 153lbs springs that really are not that harsh unless on a really rough road. I also have the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks that are a bit too hard and may get swapped out for KYB-GR2's next spring (budget shot for this year!!). As for ride height, yes, stock eye springs are a bit low. I intend to put 1" longer shackle on once I can go over to NPD and pick 'em up. Your car has an anti-sway bar. Your choice if you replace that as well while you're at it. The new revised Addco 7/8" bar might be a good choice. Your pic does not show if you have staggered shocks, but I think it does. To replace the right side shock, it may be easier to pull the rear seat for better access to the top shock nut. Here is a link to some useful posts. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/36373-an-interesting-and-informative-video-from-eaton-detroit-springs/?do=getNewComment
  20. I can't be sure about he Scott Drake version, but regardless, it will be way easier to do it before you put that bracket in there. Bearings on this shaft make clutch pedal pressure much lighter. With my Centerforce II clutch, my wife could not push the clutch in before I made these mods. Now she can drive the car (if I let her!!)
  21. I have a pair of front fender stripes from Graphics Express for the section between the wheel arch and door in ARGENT. (Silver). They were sent to me by mistake and they didn't want them back. They are FREE to anyone who wants them, but pay actual mail cost. PM me for more details. To be clear, here is a pic of the section I'm referring to. Gone to a new home. Thanks everyone.
  22. Indeed, do your due diligence first of course before committing to a trip. In my case, I had pictures, and several phone conversations before I took my trip. I didn't just jump on a plane and go, that is not what I was inferring. To be honest, in my case, I could have just told the seller to ship it. I was that confident in his relies to my questions.
  23. 1160 miles is nothing. If it's the car you want, go out and see it. I live in SW Ontario, crossed the US border and flew from Detroit to LA to see my car. Believe me it was worth it. (read my story in "how I met my car" post.) I have a friend who is/was selling a nice restored 429 Mach 1. He is in SW Ontario though. Crossing the border is still a problem right now though. I can check if he still has it, but I have a feeling he sold it recently.
  24. Yes, the sides of the bracket do have "draft" on them. On mine, I ground the bearing retainers (1 1/2" dia. pipe) to achieve alignment of the bearings. Saved the hammer work, but then I had a surface grinder at my disposal.
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