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Stanglover

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Everything posted by Stanglover

  1. With all your "connections", you MUST know someone with some shop space you can 'borrow'. Working outside sucks at the best of times. I only have a 1 car garage (would be a 2 car in the UK!!) but when I have had to pull the motor, I have to do it in the driveway, then push the car back in.......... and that's on a SUNNY day! As others have said, take your time and you'll be fine.
  2. Hello and welcome from SW Ontario. Very nice toy you have there. There are lots of well informed 429 guy here to hep out where needed, I'm just not one of them. Geoff.
  3. Rather just an edit, I was rethinking my comments above. If you have good mechanical skills, a rebuild seal kit is available from Rock Auto or many other vendors, is not expensive. It is not that hard to take a PS box apart, but you need to do your research on the process. There are many videos on YouTube, some are crap, other ok, but that is how I learned to do mine. It's not getting it apart and cleaned up, it's getting it back together with correct preloads. There has been a lot posted on rebuilding. The main areas of concern and why you may have to buy a new or rebuilt, is wear at th
  4. On mine, I decided to add a set of aftermarket gauges and built my own center stack using a factory gauge part, keeping my original safe and sound in a box. As the speedo cluster has no chrome around the gauges, I just painted the chrome strips black, which for this, looks way better. I did try chrome paints and tape, but decided it looked terrible.
  5. As you live in Australia, getting parts to do a PS rebuild yourself might be quite a bit harder than on this side of the Equator plus it isn't that easy to do without some technical know-how and proper tools. So, unless there is qualified shop within a reasonable distance that has the knowledge and parts to properly rebuild a Saginaw 800 PS box, (it should be a variable in a Mach1, tag ID SPA-T or V) my suggestion would be to buy a quick ratio 12.7:1 from one of the US companies. I suggest doing some research as I can't offer an opinion as to which would be best. Most remans I've seen are all
  6. Posted in the wrong thread Mark. Just thought I'd mention it.
  7. I looked into doing center section. The quote I got from Vacuum Orna-Metal in Michigan (I think) was about the same as a repop, difference being I know the original will fit. Check out www.vacuumorna-metal.com
  8. Thanks John, I kinda put it in the middle this time so it's different than the old one. Not that the "fixed" crack was really obvious on the old one, no crack looks way better.
  9. Just to finish off this post, I got the "Caution Fan" decal/sticker thanks to our good friend jpaz, so here's a pic of the final installation. Job done, good enough for the girls I go with.
  10. I use toilet paper and lots of water!! Sorry, couldn't resist that one.
  11. You can, but I tend to agree there, as according to the Holley carb manual, the PVC is at the front I guess so oil residue goes through the primary ports of the manifold. But, does it really matter as long as the oil vapor gets burnt?
  12. Back in 1980, just after my first wife and I split up, I bought my second Mustang. The first was a 71 302 Fastback. Second was a 72 Q code. Not knowing squat about these cars, but knowing enough that this Q code 4 speed was NOT a winter driver, I picked up a third 72 Mach 1, this time an H code that needed quarters fixed and painted. Drove this as my winter beater for 4 years. Back to the Q code. I decided to store it in 83 and did not drive it again till 1987, then parked it again until wife #2 came along and I sold the Q in 91 for 2500 bucks, all I could get for it back then. When I bought t
  13. Chiming in here, but does that mean you have decided NOT to go with the top-loader conversion? Just wondering.
  14. Find out who owns them and tell them to keep their damn cats indoors, where they belong. No need for cats to roam on other peoples property. We have 3 cats and they only go out when we take them out and yes, cats can be trained. They don't go off our front yard and to get them in, I only need to tap a walking stick on the ground and they go in. I wish our damn neighbor would do the same thing.
  15. Yes, I believe you're right. In hind sight, knowing what I know now, I wish I'd kept that 70 J block instead of getting rid of it believing it was no good BECAUSE of the rear drain holes, to buy a 71 L block that turned out to have been cracked and welded. I dumped that block too along with a set of GA heads and a set of N heads with posts. Hind sight, hind sight! I do have a set of valve covers with the drippers, but that's all I have left.
  16. A boat is a "hole in the water where you throw money". Sell the boat!!
  17. Interesting article and does make sense. I can't be 100% sure as it's been 8 years since I replaced my hoses, but I'm thinking the coil was already in the lower hose when purchased, but as I said, I could be wrong. I just don't remember putting it in there. I was always under the understanding that the lower hose could collapse and as a precaution, the coil was there to stop that happening. As for corroding, possibly, but with the proper coolant mixture, a bit less likely. I personally have not had one corrode to the point of breaking up. However, something to keep in mind. As for Big Re
  18. Lower rad hose "spring" is available from NPD # 8A-286-1A for about 6 bucks. You NEED one in there.
  19. Hi Mike, Nice to see you on here. I suggest you go to "introductions" and post a little about yourself and your car(s).

    Geoff, aka Stanglover.

  20. A member here, BFH429, is looking for the chrome trim around the rear fold down seat. If anyone has any in GOOD condition, please contact either he or me, Stanglover, with details. BFH429 is currently really busy, so I'm just helping out. Thanks.
  21. I've had to redo mine about 4 times now that way and not run the motor until it's all back together, but on second thoughts, may not be such a good idea to run the motor, water all over the place. Possibly just crank it?
  22. Kilgon is right, however there is much discussion on whether to run distributor vacuum on "ported" or full manifold. My choice is ported (timed in other words) and that seems to work best on my engine. But, as you have a mechanical distributor, not a concern unless you change dizzy's to vacuum advance.
  23. You might also want to raise the front a little to assist the air moving from the back of the block. I think you'd be safe, once the block is full, to run the engine a short time just to get the water moving, but that could get messy! A PITA for sure.
  24. The vacuum for secondary's is from internal vacuum through ports in the carb, NOT a separate line.
  25. IF it ain't one thing, it's another. It never seems to stop. That sucks man! One step forward a three back. Something isn't right for sure. I really hope you don't end up pulling the motor for a rebuild. Follow the advice of Don C .
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