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Everything posted by Stanglover

  1. I'm now wondering if David miswrote by saying 4140. Did he mean 4130 which I also believe is Chromoly. That would make more sense.
  2. Well gents, I now squat about types of steels beyond the basics. My background includes machining and as such, have only used 4140 in tooling, it's also known as Pre-Treat. I recently found out that apparently some cheapo leaf spring manufacturers also use 4140 for springs. Really! Springs! Why I chimed in here is simply this, what does NASCA or other racing organizations specify? If it's good enough for racing at 200mph and drivers survive horrible looking crashes, why the need for some other exotic steel? Just asking the question, not to start a war.
  3. Good find and in Canadian dollars too. I need to replace one side and they can be bought separately. More money on the old girl. Maybe I'll buy it for her 50th Birthday in February.
  4. Wow! didn't realize you were talking that kind of whine. That sounds awful. Are you sure there's nothing rubbing on the belt or pulley? Sounds dumb, but it's got to be something simple (I hope for your sake) if it ran fine earlier before the upgrades. Have you tried removing the pump to make sure and check the alignment. There is an aluminum spacer behind the long bolt, it's about 5/8" if I remember, do you have the right spacer? I'm grabbing at straws I know, but unless your pump is completely F'd and needs replacing, it's got to be something just "off a bit" Man, that's got to be f
  5. Nothing is perfect in this world. It is what it is and that bugs the hell out of me.
  6. Wow David, your spoiler is on as crooked as a dogs hind leg. Your dimension, that I know you've posted at least once before, are between both examples, NPD and the 429 megasite. It does go to prove, Ford had no time for accuracy, just get it on and out. The downside of using the NPD repop spoiler dimensions is it places the trailing edge of the spoiler past the end of the deck lid and that to me, just looks wrong. As I mentioned before, I did measure the front location on a friends factory installed spoiler and both side were 9 1/2" (give or take a 1/16th) So, what's best? I'd say no more
  7. Set up a YouTube account and run it through that. Then all you're sending is a link in effect. It took me quite some time to figure it out, but it will work. Good luck, look forward to seeing the video.
  8. Spike, I wouldn't want to get "pulled out my ski(s)" on take-off behind that boat!!! Instant enema.
  9. YES! but that was when the dollar difference wasn't as bad, pre you-know-who times.
  10. Thanks timachone for posting the video. Two things, it shows that ViseGrips are the best option to adjust the rods and second it proves that the spoiler placement for the NPD reproduction that was on my car when I bought it, was in fact 1" too far back. Mine is also set at 10 1/2" from the top of the deck lid. I also know that there is some disagreement as to the actual measurement that is shown on the 429 megasite, but I have measured the placement on a friends factory installed spoiler and it matches the 429 dimensions. See below. The NPD reproduction is probably as good as you'll get,
  11. Well Vinnie, I'm no body man, but I have had experience working metal. I hand built steel air cleaner prototypes for many years. Basically what's happening here is you have stretched the metal by over heating the weld. Dressing the welds with an appropriate body hammer and dolly will even the joint area, but the oil canning need to be shrunken out. This can be done by pin point heating a spot to red heat, then using a hammer and dolly, hammer the high (red hot) spot back, then cool it with a rag and water, continue this until the oil canning is removed. This takes practice and a load of patien
  12. Tom, maybe I got lucky with the vise grips, but your simple tool might be a safer way to go. There is a lot of tension on those rods for sure.
  13. All I used was a pair of wise grips. Pics of the torsion bars were recently in a post. On my car, it had a repro spoiler which was lighter than the factory original I now have on. I had to max the tension to get the trunk to stay open without hitting me on the head..... and that has happened.
  14. How To Interpret Ford Part Numbers - EATON Detroit Spring The above link may be of interest to some newer members. Most will already know this about the Ford numbering system. Print it off for future reference.
  15. They also have the "correct" high pressure hoses as well now for late 72 73's
  16. Yes I do know the year and plant and thanks for reminding me about the Mercury's starting with a 5. I was pretty sure the block I had came from a Cougar. Actually, I wish I'd kept that block, but because it had the rear oil drain holes, I was led to believe it was not a good option. I sold it for a 100 bucks!
  17. Matt, I assumed being as the number starts with a "1", it was Mustang. Mine is 1f1777XX. I had a 351 C "J" block that was 1f5XXXXX and I knew it wasn't out of a Mustang, I think it was a Cougar block. You're right though, doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck with your car.
  18. Hello and a warm welcome from chilly SW Ontario, Canada.
  19. Matt, if you really want to replace your J code motor and this guy seems legit and his price is fair, I'd say buy it. It's probably going to need a rebuild or at least stripping and new seals and gaskets, so take that into account. That's just my thoughts on it. A few years back, there was a guy in Windsor advertising a '71 429 complete, for 1200 bucks Cad. I didn't have that extra cash at the time or I'd have grabbed it for my car.
  20. Awesome, thanks. I should order one just in case I do need it. It's not that expensive just to sit in a box if I don't need it.
  21. Thanks Tony for the spacer number. Jpaz also mentioned using a 1/2" spacer. I'll keep that in mind when I finally get started on this next little project. I just got my order confirmation from Summit to find out the Derale 17188 18" fan is on backorder for two months, despite them showing it as "in stock". It's a good thing I'm in no rush as I don't want to order parts from different vendors and deal with extra shipping cost.
  22. Did you think to compare pictures of the two. Is there a chance you happened to have been shipped the wrong one and you didn't realize? Hemikiller just changed one after 15 years, so I hope the one I get outlasts the time I'll own the car. There are alternative manufacturers for similar fan clutches. Rock Auto list 3. Hope I made the right choice.
  23. Yes I guess you could do that too, but another thought, I recently had new tail pipes made and the tips were previously hacked and tacked, so they were cut off and expanded to fit over the 2 1/4" then welded back on. Yeah, I'm too cheap to buy new repops and the result looks good and no clamps to worry about..
  24. Well it's done. I ordered the Hayden 2710 and Derale 17118 fan from Summit Racing. Shipping and taxes cost as much as the fan!! Oh the joy of not living in the US........ but on the other hand!!!!
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