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Stanglover

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Everything posted by Stanglover

  1. This is bothering me somewhat as to what is going on. One thought I just had is this. When the car is up on jack stands, wheels off, can you measure vertically from the frame rails down to the springs. Either in front or just behind the axle. My thinking is if one spring has sagged, the dimension ought to be off by the 5/8" you are seeing. Going back to my own problems with rear springs and as I have commented on many times, I had bought a set of Grab-a-Track 4 1/2 leaf springs. The extra 1/2 leaf is supposed to help stop spring wrap up on my "one wheeler peeler" (open diff). The problem was they were way too high, lifting the rear by 1 3/4 inches. I had the springs de-arched, but then they started to reverse bend. I started to research and only found Eaton reveal the steel type they used. Even Dayton Springs, another huge US spring maker, did not give the steel type. What I did find is some aftermarket manufacturers use a steel know as 4140, whish is a pre-hardened steel used in tool making. It is not heat treatable beyond that. Eaton use SAE 5160 spring steel. That is why I would ONLY suggest Eaton Detroit Springs to anyone wanting correct rear springs.
  2. Sooooo, Kevin, when is YOUR car going to get done eh!
  3. Really, I don't know WHY Forel did not simply remove that damn License Manager crap and do like most others do with CD discs, you buy it, register it and USE IT!! I guess they figured it would be cheaper for them to offer pdf's rather than replace all the discs they sold over the years. I only have the two discs, 71 colorized wiring diagrams and 71 body parts Illustrated. I have a complete set of original 71 Ford manuals, a bonus gift when I bought my car. While here, Forel actually sent me (by mistake) the 67 Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Mustang shop manual in pdf that I have no use for. I kept it anyway.
  4. If you contact them, they will send it in PDF form provided you have a license key from your original purchase. I had Forel 71 wiring diagrams as well as body parts. With the PDF it's open source now and no more problems.
  5. Holy heck batman! Do you have a "fat lady" sitting in the passenger seat?? That's some lean to say the least. You say you have "new springs", but what brand? Did you check them side by side before installing them? Is it at all possible you inadvertently have one spring standard eye and the other reversed eye. That's a real long shot but something is very definitely OFF!! As for tire size, I have to assume your rears are the same. I'm fishing for sure now, On mine, I have 14" Magnum 500's with 245-60-14 rear and 235-60-14 front on 8" and 7" rims.
  6. true and totally agree. All it takes is MONEY!!
  7. Now, if that was a Grabber Lime Mach 1, I'm be in awe. That would be my dream car, just like the very first one I ever saw back in 1972 in Birmingham, England and the reason I fell in love with Mach 1's. Save it if you can even though it's a fastback 302.
  8. Eaton make a 1" longer shackle kit sold at NPD, but I guess at a pinch, you could make a set of custom shackles. Still may not be the correct fix. How does the car look from the back? Does it look "off", like it's sagging to one side? My guess is the springs are no longer the same arch, i.e. one spring has sagged more than the other. If your car body is not twisted and the rear frame is all good, then it has to be the springs. Nothing else make sense to me.
  9. Sooo, my first question is who's and what springs did you buy??? IF your car is straight and square, i.e. not been crashed, damaged or twisted, it ought to be pretty close side to side. Granted, it is possible I would think, that it could have been built slightly off, but unlikely. I ONLY use Eaton Detroit Springs springs and even then I have a 1/8" difference center height on the wheel arch left to right. My experience with cheapo junk aftermarket rear springs is well documented on here. I agree with all others, NO air shocks. Another thought, if you have adjustable rear shocks, are they set the same?
  10. Here's a couple of links that ought to help. There is a ton of info on the good ol' "net" Gasoline explained - octane in depth - U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) Octane rating - Wikipedia
  11. Awesome work Kevin. A man of many skills indeed. For someone who does not do this for a living, your work is just as good, if not better than any professional. Really enjoying seeing the progress.
  12. Yeah, well that's not good lol! I found the Shell email, but it was not on Octane, but ethanol content, sorry. I know I have something on Octane somewhere though. I did find a couple of articles on timing. One is Timing tips for Ford (and other) distributors. However it is copyrighted. The link is http://www.bob2000.com/dist.htm The other is Timing and Vacuum advance 101 by Lars Grimsrud. I think that is or was on the Forum somewhere. If not you might find it on Google. It's several pages long and too long to scan. Good info there. Good luck moving forward.
  13. Reading through other replies, I agree with Trillizo_y_uno. Again, you do NOT want too much advance. On a stockish motor, 36 degrees mechanical is about all you want. On mine, I reworked a slot as a 10L (.410" width) and curved with different springs at different tension. My initial is 14 deg. plus 20 crank advance with about 4-6 degrees vacuum on top and the all in is around 3000 rpm. I am using 13cc dish pistons for a comp ratio of around 9.8:1 at zero deck height. On 91 non ethanol gas, this thing pulls like a train now, with zero spark knock. Before, I found that with the flat top pistons, zero deck height and a 14 degrees of initial timing, it knocked like crazy even with a 10L slot width. That's why I dropped the compression and that cured the issue. Too much compression with the fuels we have is not a great idea. Higher octane fuel is actually less volatile than low octane 87, so it does not pre-detonate under compression. I wish we still had 100 + octane like the good ol' days, then we could really have some fun!! I commented recently on distributor slot width, but off the top of my head, not sure who's post it was, but it was just a few days ago. I have an email from Shell Fuels somewhere in my stash where they define Octane. I'll see if I can find it, scan it and post for you. I also have a sheet on "Timing 101". That ought to be on here somewhere, if someone knows where to find it.
  14. I'm definitely not an expert by a long shot, but here's what I did faced with the same dilemma back in the early days of owning my 71 M code. Now, I'm dealing with higher compression, supposedly 10.7:1 with 4V quench heads. The thing would spark knock badly on 91 no ethanol fuel, best I could get in my area. I started to learn about timing after I joined the group here. I was able to get the car running better after a friend played around with it. After an engine rebuild in 2012, I had a lot of issues with timing. Most of which turned out to be a bad choice of Pertronix Ignitor III module. There has been many threads on this subject in "search". I suggest doing some more research on fuel octane numbers. If you're set at 16* initial, it ought to run fine. The "curve" of the timing is probably more important as well as the type of distributor you're using. There is a lot more info needed before anyone can make a solid suggestion imo. I'm out of time right now to go further, but will continue later. Search my posts on timing as well as others. It is a frustrating thing I know only too well.
  15. Hoods are painted as you know. The stencil I got was from Graphics Express in Florida. It is not totally correct, BUT could be cut down the exact middle to widen it by about a 1/2 inch either side. Again depending on what you want, an exact replica or something close. There have been many posts on this subject if you do a search. There are pictures and details on position and size for correct placement. Actually, my painter just used it as a guide and then used 3M plastic tape to lay it out. My hood is incorrect and was totally my fault as I told him the front edge was 2" from the hood edge, but I forgot the 1" trim was not yet on. The front edge should be around 1 7/8" to 2", mine is 3". Oh well, no one has ever questioned it at shows, it is what it is. Here's the link to David's post on dimensions. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/32908-measurments-for-hood-black-out/?do=findComment&comment=338133
  16. Interesting! If you read my posts on this subject, I too ordered from Wesco. I actually had no problem getting the belts I wanted. I did NOT order the installation kit as I had it all with the old parts in the car. I came to find that Wesco is just a distributor for Seatbelt Solutions in Florida. On mine, I ordered the 8" extension, but it did NOT have the nice cover that your pic shows. I wish it did not only for looks but function too. Also, and their pictures and description does NOT mention it, I ordered with a long "C" bracket (if I remember) With that, I did not have to drill another hole and muck around with the backing plate needed. As for communication, I had zero problems, emails were promptly answered. Knowing what I know now, I would have custom ordered from Seatbelt Planet. However, the one thing I really would like to see on all these aftermarket kits, is a free sliding buckle tang, just like in our modern cars today. I mentioned that in one of my posts. As far as function goes, I am finding it only somewhat satisfactory. By that I mean I need to pull the belt very slowly from the retractor, that is after I've fiddled about trying to find the damn shoulder belt that does not fully retract because it is held by the buckle's set position. Once on, no problem. I have free movement to reach forward, not like the original POS belts. So, I guess that's a bonus at least to justify the cost. The sleeves I ordered from Seatbelt Planet work very well on the tunnel buckle belts. See pics in my posts.
  17. Good Cleveland blocks around here are like the proverbial hen's teeth, except there might be a few blocks still around, unlike hen's teeth! I once had a J code block, but sold it believing it was no good with rear drain holes. I also had an L block, but it had been cracked and welded, so I got rid of that one too. Now I can't find a good untouched block anywhere local. That new block looks interesting. I wonder what the finished cost will be.
  18. SOMEWHERE!! I have that pic, but can't find it right now. I have hundreds of pics!! I take another look and post if I find it. Failing that I too could slither under the car and take another pic.
  19. So, I was driving to Ottawa on Tuesday (28th Sept.) and came upon someone driving a 73 Gold Glow (or similar) Mach 1. Ont license "Q CODE". This was just passed the Belleville/Shanonville area and I think it turned off at a Naponee exit. I'm just wondering if he is a member on here. If so, I'd love to here from you. When I passed, I rolled down the pass side window (VW Passat) and gave a thumbs up, which I know was seen. I spotted that very familiar rear end shape from about 1 km away (.6 miles). I just had to catch up with it. The guy was driving at about 120kph, 75 mph and not afraid of it either. The car has 71-2 hockey stripes, but otherwise looked pretty much correct. Nice car by the way. I tried to get a pic, but was unsuccessful. EDIT: I might have asked if any Ontario members know who this person is? Didn't think of it at the time. License plate is a give away.
  20. The switch itself connect to the back of the shifter and is pushed into a metal clip ring which also acts as an adjuster for position. I guess you already know this but.....
  21. Wow! Apart from the factory tach, it shows to be almost exactly the same as my 71 M code. Date code 02/71 (22) Why Ford chose NOT to put a tach on ALL 4 speed cars is beyond me. It's a MUST HAVE as far as I'm concerned. Looking forward to see the pics, but alas, I'm not interested in buying it. I hope you get what it's worth. Good luck.
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