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Everything posted by Stanglover

  1. You're almost correct, they are pink, gold and white. And yes, on this one the white was opposite, no idea why unless it was in the QC process. I did refinish the springs before I put them back in and sort of duplicated the paint daubs.
  2. Point taken. Maybe it's just me, but I like to see correct (but not necessarily concours) parts where possible in the engine bay. It seem often we are dealing with other peoples "fixes" that are not always appropriate. I had no intention of being offensive.
  3. Mike, I can get one made locally, I just have not bothered....yet. However that info may be of great use to others, so thank for posting that info. (Your date stamp would work for mine as car was built Feb 22 71.)
  4. Question; why so many bits and pieces of hoses and so many friggin gear clamps? I would scrap all the old hoses and replace them using correct tower type heater hose clamps. Here is a pics that might help. I chose to use Autolite stamped "concours" correct hoses. Granted, there may be some differences between my 71 and your 73, but my question is the same.
  5. Washer tube, It will get done. I have a friend with a 1 owner 71 Mach 1 and as I have several pictures of his car, I found one with the hood up. I know this car was repainted and engine pulled and the bay redone, They never connected that hose through the hood. Something for him to fix! Wiper motor, just something to keep in mind. My friend had that stamp made and offered to loan me it, but the date code is wrong for mine, his car is 2 months younger than mine, so no stamp on mine ....yet.
  6. I have a question; why are people messing around with old out of date incandescent bulbs when Hi-Po Parts has LED or SMD bulbs to replace ALL the old bulbs on our cars? The only non LED type I have on my 71 Mach1 are the Halogen headlights. For sure, the sport light bulb is a special one due to grounding. Unfortunately there is no number on the bulb and it doesn't show on my invoice, but Bill will know what it is. https://www.hipoparts.com Phone 1-888-533-4476 NOTE: this is referring to the bulb, not the 71 socket.
  7. I know NPD sell the rubber and I think they have the bracket too. Worth looking on their website. This is from the only NPD catalog I have, 2019, the rubber insulator # I used is 3A609-2. There is also 3A609-1A that is listed for 65-66, but it is split to slip over the hose. The bracket is an assembly and listed for 69-70. You only need the top part of the bracket, so the rest is scrap. Other vendors likely sell this as well, so maybe a few phone calls are in order.
  8. Sorry I couldn't resist chiming in. Dental Floss eh! Actually, that trunk lid must have been changed when the car was repainted and they used what they found. It is not a Mach 1 trunk lid.
  9. Brendan, You know, I think you're right. I never really paid to much attention to that little detail when I stripped the car for a repaint. Soooo, I guess I've got one more little job to do eh! Good eye my friend. Regardless, I'm happy you got yours fixed to your satisfaction. By the way, if and when you get to repaint the wiper motor, can you get a new ink stamp made to reproduce the markings?
  10. As I said, I kind of jumped in on this saga recently, not knowing all the details. I just realized what you have been talking about with the hood trim piece after enlarging the best picture. What ever was he thinking to fill in the gap between the hood and trim piece? I would be fuming too in that case. He ought to at least make that good by removing the filler and repainting the hood and trim. I hope I'm correct on that. Going back to mine, but not wanting to over shadow your issues, my body guy failed to correctly align the fenders center to the body, therefore the hood was also off. It
  11. Ok this makes more sense to me now. I confess I jumped into this post not knowing of the amount of bodywork done. That being the case, I would think 18K would be a pretty good price based on my own car that needed only the tail light panel replaced. The rest was just nicks and minor dents, full sanding, prime, paint, cut and buff. Having said that, it now come to finishing the job and that's where the problem lies.
  12. Brett, I have just one word " BULLSHIT!" That guy is overvaluing his abilities. I know unless you have it in writing, it's his word against yours, but maybe time to consider legal action or threat thereof. He's trying to rip you off. Although it was back in 2014 when I had my car stripped and repainted, my total bill was just over 10K Canadian! That included cut and buff and help putting it back together. My painter was also a restorer, so had the knowledge and experience. Besides, he was not busy and volunteered to help. There were some issues as mentioned before, but overall I can'
  13. So, please remind me (us) why this painter is NOT going to finish the job for the quoted price? You don't do a 2 stage paint job and not cut and buff. While I'm no expert on painting cars, I have several friends who are and I'm damn sure they would agree. If you wanted an original 1971-73 appearing paint job, you would have use a single stage enamel or similar for that "factory painted" look.
  14. That car is a total joke for the money, period. I see now what you mean about the rear tire. I guess it must be just placed in there for the pics.
  15. Bret, talking of the hood trim piece, that is probably the one aspect of my cars repaint that pissed me off the most. The left side outer little attachment post, tiny little bugger, was broken off and I knew that. The problem was the painter/body guy had the entire front end slightly off line, so instead of readjusting the fenders and hood as he should have, he just "adjusted" the trim piece and used body adhesive to glue it in place. The result is I have a large gap between the hood and trim on that side and there's NOTHING I can do about it without replacing it completely and hoping the pain
  16. The problem is there are way too many dreamers out there who think these cars are worth a fortune, regardless of condition. Considering what we all know it will cost to actually "restore" that car, 30-40 grand, I wouldn't pay more than 5 K and that would entirely depend on personal inspection and condition. A small hole can end up costing thousands. I only paid 15K for mine and it was done and driving, zero rust or bodywork.
  17. I've been following this thread sort of in the background so to speak. I know what you mean and it's frustrating when things just don't get done right. I could list a pile myself with my car's repaint and refit of parts, but that's not why I'm here posting today. On your car, my only hope if the "kid" who painted it (he looks like a kid in the pic) put sufficient clear coat on to cope with removing half of it during wet sanding. If he blows through it, he'll have to clear it again and that may cause other problems. Anyway on the plus side, while I'm not a fan of green anything (unle
  18. I would just cut it out and replace it with a new one. You can get those grommets at any auto store or even a hardware store. Note the plastic white straight connector in my pic. With that in place, you can always disconnect the tube if you need to remove the hood for any reason.
  19. Brendan, I meant to post this, but forgot. On mine, it is just a rubber donut grommet and the hose from the washer container goes through it. See pics.
  20. I just thought of this regarding my front coil springs which are comp suspension rated. This may help you determine if your non-comp coils are really sagged. The spec overall unloaded height for this spring is 15". All the paint daubs are original. As you can see, my spring is 14 15/16" close enough for the girls I go with.
  21. Brad, Sooooo, you've done this dance before eh! As you have a H code, I doubt it has comp suspension and staggered shocks, unless it could be ordered specially in 72. I know my 72 H code did not, but my 72 Q code did, it was a 4 speed car that I should NEVER have sold, but that's a story for another day. On the subject of bushings, I think most will agree, the urethane type are squeaky and give a harsh ride. Personally, I prefer good 'ol rubber bushings. Anyway for now, all the best with your car, Geoff.
  22. Just two words........" Very Nice!"....... or, "Friggin Awesome". Take your pick.
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