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jakosaur

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  • My Car
    1973 Convertible, 351C H-code. AOD swap in progress
    2000 Harley Softail Standard
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  • Location
    New Mexico
  • Region
    Southwest

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  1. I did this a few weeks ago, but I thought I'd get up to date. I ground the rust and gunk off the underbody and put POR-15 on everything. It looks about 100% better under there. I need to put a coat of the rubber undercoating over the POR-15 now that it's dry, and then it's time to repair the rust holes in the body, then I finally get to start putting it all back together again! I just need the time, which has been hard to find lately.
  2. 73 convertible, H code 351C, FMX (swapping to AOD)
  3. Last Friday, I removed all the remaining things under the back of the car. I had to remove the rear bumper and valence in order to get the gas tank out. Took about 4 hours to get the tank out, and what should I find but perfect paint. It didn't need to be removed after all. Now I'm spending a hundred bucks replacing all the hardware and software from the tank, bumper, and valence for no reason. Oh well. The last thing to take out of the underside of the car is the transmission, which I've removed all hardware from, and it won't budge. I'm not sure what's holding it in, but it's stuck to the engine. I think I might lift it up tomorrow and start trying to wiggle it in the up position rather than down. All I can think of anyway. After that, it'll be a very long slog of removing the rust, cleaning, and painting the underside. Wish me luck!
  4. So I broke down and ordered the replacement panels for my left rear fender. Now I just need to learn how to weld sheet metal. I think I'll start tearing apart my old rusty charcoal grille that nobody wants to pay $20 for, and weld it back together a dozen times until I get it right. My friend will lend me his MIG, but I will need to get wire and gas. This will be fun... Any advice on what to put on the metal after welding? Should I slap on some POR-15 and then high-build primer?
  5. Finally pulled the rear end out, pulled the axles, out, and started cleaning it for repainting. Started draining the gas tank to drop it next. I just realized I should pull the exhaust first. I guess I'll do that next. I'm almost done tearing things apart, though!
  6. I'll go ahead and put in my $0.02. I have an Edelbrock Performer 600 CFM carburetor, Edelbrock Performer intake, Comp Cams 260H camshaft, and headers. It runs like a beast even with a lousy rear gear ratio and stupid transmission, and I love it. I am planning to upgrade the ignition, transmission, and rear end. If anything, I'd say the cam is a little weak for the rest of the setup, and if I ever get rich & bored I'll put in the next-level cam. Like others mentioned though, you can't look at single pieces and expect a major change. The whole picture is required, from the air cleaner to the exhaust tip & everything in between. Just a carb on with no other change will be an expensive few HP. Camshaft only would run like garbage, since it can't breathe enough (ask me how I know). You need to decide what you want, how much you're willing to spend to get there, and make a few changes at once. I'll just say that the stock setup is made for emissions, so very mild replacements to carb, intake/exhaust manifolds, and camshaft will make a big difference. $0.02, you probably overpaid. Jake
  7. Yesterday I climbed into the trunk and found the other side of the rust holes, cleaned them up and primed them. I found a friend who would let me borrow his welder. I've never welded before, but I guess I better learn now. I'm looking at just getting the whole patch panels from NPD and cutting them down to what fits best, rather than trying to bend a piece of flat sheet into the right shape to match the corners of the fender well. Any thoughts?
  8. Welcome! That is a beautiful Mustang!
  9. I took apart my rear brakes, and worked on the bodywork. Once I got through the layers of paint, I found that it was much worse than I thought. The first two are either side of the driver’s side rear fender. The last one is Bondo between the door and the fender well. Turns out the previous owner wanted to get rid of the seam between the door and the fender, but used Bondo to do it. The paint all cracked under it. It also solves a mystery I noticed from the Marti report: the car came with the protection package, which should have included the chrome strip along the doors. There weren’t any holes in the door for mounting it, but there is a crack in the paint there. I’ll bet a silver dollar that there’s Bondo under those cracks. All told, I had a pretty disappointing day working on my car. Now I guess I need to buy more Bondo for my Bondo special. Jake
  10. Thanks for the suggestions, but honestly sucking the gas up a hose sounds less dangerous than an open gas tank and a battery. I’m also on a spending freeze at the moment, so I thought I’d use my brake bleeder to get the siphon stared and just fill 5 gallons at a time. My Taurus needs some gas, and my Harley will soon I hope. Thanks for the ideas though! Jake
  11. Thanks Mike! Very good description, I forgot about the vent! I took a look at everything else before I asked, but it’s good to know what’s there to avoid any surprises. Thanks again! Jake
  12. Hey everyone, I realized that in order to get a handle on the underbody corrosion in my car I’m going to have to drop the gas tank. Has anyone done that? I’m not sure where to begin aside from siphoning the gas out of it, which will take a while anyhow. How do you remove a 73 gas tank? Thanks, Jake
  13. +1. Babbitt is nonmagnetic and dull, aluminum should be shiny.
  14. Hey all, I got my Marti report last week! It turns out that Zelda isn't anything special. She's the most common setup of a '73 convertible, with no factory options. I no longer have any concerns about tearing her down and changing the rear end, transmission, and whatever else I feel like doing. There's plenty more red convertibles with white interiors and Clevelands where she came from.
  15. I made a mess and probably gave myself cancer. I also found out that the car has more cancer than I thought. I started by trying to clean the rear wheel wells, and it turned into using a wire wheel to get the junk off. That went straight to bare metal, so I went ahead and just knocked as much junk off as I could reach. I'll hit it with a primer when I get a chance I guess. What sucks is the rust at the bottom right in the picture. There's some sort of metal tab stamped into the body or frame, and it's very rusted, and the area around it is rusting too. I poked a hole through the well liner trying to knock the dirt off. I already knew the other side of the car was rusted, too. Does anyone know what that thing is?
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