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pposey

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Posts posted by pposey

  1. I have my motor and C6 out and the current transmission cooling lines are a mess, they are smushed, twisted, and have sections that were replaced with rubber hose..

    I want to make them better, am looking at "Classic Tube" replacement lines.  Anyone have any experience with them?

    as the car is a 73 coupe, and the C6 and 429 are from a 70 Torino I'm having issues there as well.  The lines they have for a 1973 mustang, C6 look correct when compared to my current mess.  

    Classic tubes does not have images up but CJ Pony Parts does, any experience with them?

    Summit also has them, 

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-mut1011-oe

     Non of the suppliers listed in the classifieds show them.

  2. I'm trying to clean my engine compartment up some when I get this motor checked out back together and back in the car can I just plug the heater core Outlet on the pump and the heater core return on the intake manifold on my 429 or do I have to put a short Loop connecting the two of them so water still flows through there? I attached an image of the two holes. The more stuff I pull off this 429 the bigger it looks. The car is a garage princess I really do not need a heater core in it the one that's in the car now popped and I've already changed it twice I've had the car since 1985 so I'd rather just not have that heater core functioning and not have all the lines. Thank you for your assistance

    20210624_163320.jpg

  3. 7 hours ago, Fabrice said:

    900+ torque converter is dirt cheap.
    If the converter is of decent quality, which it should to handle the 429 torque, it would cost at least 250 and likely more. 
    650 in labour is basically saying, they put it apart, most goes in wash machine and they change the frictions plates, o-rings.

    I rebuild mine last year, also for a 429. Not all C6's are the same despite the common assumptions, the planets for instance, for a 429, they can have 5 rollers, 4 is fine and enough and likely what you have coming from a 70 Torino. 

    But there are must haves for a 429. The forward and direct clutches should have at least 4 frictions/steels. Some HP version even have 5. but a very large portions of the C6's are coming with 3. So I'd say, ask them to put 4 if there is 3, because behind a 429, that's 10k miles vs 100k if your right foot is on the heavy side.
    They need to lathe 2 pressure plates to do this. The trick shops often do is to use another bottom plate and flip it. Nothing wrong on itself, but as I've seen and measured myself, you end up on the high side of specs, too loose (more wear and heat real quick). So ask them either to install thinner plates or better  that they turn yours to end up with the optimal end play. If you have a true 70 trans, you might very well have the great larger drum that would allow 5 plates even if it came with 4. If thats the case, you should really ask that they push 5 in there. You'd have then a scj spec trans ;)

    I would also buy a shift kit, the C6 valve body is not that complex, and installing the shift kit in practice, is only to use the kit provided springs and replace the one valve that is under the body plate. One tiny hole in that plate is also required. An additional 2 minutes work for a pro. So there should be near zero extra cost for installing this shift kit aside the kit itself ofc, which is I believe 40ish.

    Another additional detail if you have no lift at home:  buy a new pan with a drain plug or weld a bung. The original messy way to drain oil is really unfriendly when you have your nose close to the pan bolts. Its a detail, but if your linkage would leak (common on cars that stay still often) and you need to replace that little seal, you will thank yourself for having that plug in!

    Brands, raybestos, sonnax.. a full overhaul quality set is what you should ask for. They include servo, external regulator, clip rings for the governor and pump stator too.

    EDIT: I would also make sure the converter they give you has a stall speed bits higher than the original. And make sure the crank pilot is the correct one. 9 out of 10 converters for c6's have the smaller pilot.

    EDIT2: Check on your original converter, but I'm 99.99% sure crank pilot must be 1.850 in. While most C6 converters use a 1.375. Double check that one!

    Now that's alot of good info, thank you very much. Transmissions are Greek to me, it does have a slightly deeper pan with a plug already. 

    I would not mind driving a ways to deliver and pick this one up if anybody knows of a really good place within 100 miles of Bryson City NC.  

  4. My 73 Coupe has a 429 and C6 transmission out of a 1970 Torino in it, has not been out of the car since 1987 has work really well untill the last couple of years now it's not downshifting on its own, I have to do it manually and when the transmission gets hot say I've been running a curvy Road hard I start to get a shutter like something slipping inside the transmission, going to have it rebuilt, found a local guy here in Franklin North Carolina that's highly recommended. What should I request or look out for it's got pretty good horsepower and torque pushing it. A friend of my dads rebuilt it in 87, and all I remember is that he said he built it stout. He sure did as I ran it hard for years.

  5. I already had a custom Autosound radio in my 73 it looks good but sounded like crap, even with pretty good speakers so I got to researching, 

     

    Broke down and bought the Kenwood Bluetooth receiver amplifier with a wired remote. Amplifier is mounted in the trunk wired remote runs under the carpet under my console and I mounted the remote control in the ashtray holder. 

     

     

    Installed a couple of small but good 4in Morel speakers under the front dash, had to custom make some brackets and they turned out really well, had to trim the speaker cover of the passenger side one but the speaker is not modified. already had a nice pair of 6x9 Pioneers in the back they sound 100% better with amp pushing them overall sounds really good compared to what I had.

     

    I can also still use the custom Autosound radio through the amp I hooked it up to it and then even if the amp goes out I left the front in dash speaker hooked just to the radio I can play it even if the amp dies. 

     

    Used boom mat foam speaker baffles on the rear speakers but had to put large holes in the bottom of them to get the sound right. Installed the baffles between the metal of the car and the particleboard rear shelf, put a thin layer of closed cell foam all aound them to even things out and cut noise from the trunk.20200516-173154.jpg20200517-120110.jpg20200520-184845.jpg20200520-184949.jpg20200530-114538.jpg20200530-114816.jpg20200530-115914.jpg

     

    [/url]post images

  6. Just valance and modified brackets.

    Because the 73 has slightly higher extensions, you need cut the "s" of the bracket, and align the holes

    of the bracket to fit the 73 holes on the car.

    As said above, if I would redo now (with a welding machine that i did not have back then),

    i'd add a panel or an option to add one to bridge the visible space between bumper and grille

    and mix the 73 square tubes/fittings with the 72, vs just mod/add the 72 and ditch the 73.

     

    You also can swap the fenders/extensions, which removes 1/2 the work on the 72 bracket.

    if you want chrome extensions, this could be the way to go, as I've never seen 73 chrome ones

    while you find them easy for 7172 and not that expensive, fenders are easy to find too. All depends how much a chrome plating would cost you.

    In my case, as i couldn't find chrome extensions for 73, I've let them be chrome plated together with hood extension, scoops and rusty bumper.

    That was not that expensive a few decades ago and was much cheaper for me  than importing them new or NOS (not the extensions).

     

    but for a basic swap, yeah its just a matter of modifying the bracket.

     

    Thanks for the info, I feel the same about the bumper,,, I bought my 73 back in 85 thinking it wold be a simple swap to a chrome bumper like the 72,, found out I was wrong later on,,

  7. Looks so much better than the massive front 73 bumper!

     

    I did same years ago, no regrets. As said above, only the bracket requires a relocation of the holes

    and in my case, cut the lower lip of the bracket so it could rest on the frame. At the time, 25 years ago or so,

    I did not have a welding machine. Just to say you do not need perse to have one. Today, I would fabricate the bracket

    so it also receives a new metal plate that would go thru the entire length of grille, to close the gap you see while looking near the car at a certain angle. I plan make my own aluminum grille, so that part will be welded on the grille vs redo these...

     

    One detail I will also soon need to adress after new paint job, is making some plastic/foamish thingy to go on

    the opening of the fenders, to protect from bumper. Ordered a 71 set a while back, thinking they would fit with some serious massage, but no.

    For now, (as visible on pict), i'm using a simple piece of strong black leather.

     

    Here's my conversion

    73chrome.jpg

     

    Our car acting like parachutes on the aerodynamics, I've pushed a bit more by filling the huge emptiness of the valance.

    For this I've fabricated a mould and used carbon kevlar fibers. Prolly the strongest useless thingy ever made with that stuff :)

     

    Bit dusty but you get the idea...

    73chrome2.jpg

     

    That does look nice,, so you used a 72 valance and lights as well??  and 72 bumper brackets or did you modify 73 ones?

  8. My 73 has a C6 tranny and 429 motor from a 1970 Torino in it,,, I have the tranny pan off to replace the shift lever seals and have also drained the torque converter.  

     

    The tranny was rebuilt in 1987 and has about 20,000 miles on it since. Never a moments trouble except for a leaky pan and now the shift lever seal,, have a new pan and better pan gasket, and seals but am unsure of what fluid to use.  There was no residue of any kind in the pan when I pulled it.

     

    I have no details on the rebuild or on the fluid that was used at the time. 

     

    I think the 1970 when new used Typle F,,,, and that in the early 80's they switched to another type.

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