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pposey

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Everything posted by pposey

  1. That does look nice,, so you used a 72 valance and lights as well?? and 72 bumper brackets or did you modify 73 ones?
  2. Cab you post an image from the side view please? Been thinking about doing this for a long time
  3. I filled it with Type F and she is working well!! Thanks for the advice. New shift lever seals and pan gaskets seem nice and dry as well.
  4. My 73 has a C6 tranny and 429 motor from a 1970 Torino in it,,, I have the tranny pan off to replace the shift lever seals and have also drained the torque converter. The tranny was rebuilt in 1987 and has about 20,000 miles on it since. Never a moments trouble except for a leaky pan and now the shift lever seal,, have a new pan and better pan gasket, and seals but am unsure of what fluid to use. There was no residue of any kind in the pan when I pulled it. I have no details on the rebuild or on the fluid that was used at the time. I think the 1970 when new used Typle F,,,, and that in the early 80's they switched to another type.
  5. Been awile but it ended up being a lot of work but not that bad. Gasket worked well, had to jack up the motor to get it off. Put in a new shaft and the retainer ring is in place and nice and tight. I used a set of studs and they made it even easier
  6. Haaaa Thats it that sucker is coming out!!!! I will ease into the situation this weekend need to order a new gasket,,, anybody use one of these? I figured the 1 piece design could be easier to deal with in my situation https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-41005
  7. So I'm putting the new distributor in my 73 mustang with a 1970 429 in it,,, old distributor has not been out in 20 years. I'm lifting the old one out real careful and I hear a clank sound,,,, the shaft has disappeared cant see it from the top and cant find it in the oil pan with a copper wire through the drain hole. What are the odds that I can drop the pan, retrieve the shaft, and replace the pan without having to remove or jack up the motor with a cherry picker. :huh: I have about an inch between the bottom of the pan and the frame cross member but I should be able to get the front of the pan down enough to get my hand in there.
  8. Man I'm not even sure what a "ballast resistor" is????? Never fear I will before I hook anything up!
  9. Well I'm getting a Duraspark and having it "tuned" for my motor/car/driving needs by a guy that seems to really know his stuff,, now to pick out a coil and control box,,, am looking at https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-dy893 is that a good enough box to still notice a difference in performance over points?
  10. My engine has 11 to 1 compression and a .25 inch midrange cam, best as I can recollect on the cam it's been 15 years since I held it and who knows where the paperwork went. Thanks for all of the suggestions, I am taking notes and looking at materials
  11. First thanks for reading,,,, I'm running a 1970, 429 from a Torino in my 73 coupe with a C6 auto tranny and a Holly 4 barrel with vacuum secondarys. The factory distributor has issues, there is alot of wear on the unit and the rotor shaft will wiggle around with lots of play, I am thinking of getting away from the points setup and going electronic but I want to keep it simple. Space is an issue as the hood comes down pretty close and I do not mind at all going with a separate coil to keep the distributor small. This is for a car to drive around town, to cruise the curvy roads near here and that may have a fast takeoff every now and then. I want a good smooth functioning item that is reliable. I am not much of a mechanic but can install a distributor and set timing! I'm looking at the following 2 units, each would be paired with the correct coil. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d7134620/overview/ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850306-1 What are your thoughts on these and or is there another item that would better fit the bill?
  12. I have small stainless ones on my car, have had for the last 20 years but I live on a partially gravel road, gotta have them
  13. My 20 year old spoiler is getting pretty banged up, is there a certain make that is the best to use these days
  14. are they cut factory springs or aftermarket springs??
  15. I have a full set of 14x7 and a spare, 1 set of NOS 2-2/3 in deep stainless trim rings and a set of 3 inch deep stainless trim rings,, I ran these on my car for years they are in good shape. Before I go through the trouble of taking pictures, uploading stuff and setting prices I was wondering if there is any interest in these as a set?? or individually?? I have bought some of the rings and one rim on ebay and know I can sell them there but is there any value or intrest in them here???? They are all ford originals and have markings like the below on the inside 18 14x7 JJ F B l MI 887 5 and on the outside rim MI 7 3 Ford HF .5 The Ford is in the oval
  16. Thanks for the advice guys,,, I pulled the stick on weights from the fronts and drove the car some, there was a pretty bad vibration from 55-65 in the front so since it was a nice sunny day I just kept going and drove the hour to the shop where I had them balanced,,, they worked me in right away and balanced the whole set again using just rim weights on the inside,,, they had already road force balanced them yesterday and rotated the tires to the best possible location on the wheel. They ride pretty well now, their is a faint tremor at a couple of speeds but no speed where you spend any time,,, well worth it to have no weights showing. A huge thanks to Greg's Tire & Service Center in Otto NC,,, very nice shop and very nice people. On the way home I ran HW 28 between Franklin NC and Bryson City NC and the TA Radials handle better than I thought they would,,, I know that road well and it's a good road to see how a tire performs
  17. well I have a problem,,,, for the last 20 years I have been running a set of painted 14 inch magnum 500s with trim rings, no issues for the past few years I have been thinking about getting a set of chrome magnums to replace them, this Christmas I was surprised by a set of chrome magnums, 14 inch with the same offset as the painted ones I have been running for years. I bought a new set of 14 inch TA's 2 years ago so I am alright with the 14 inch size, The problem came when I went to have the wheels balanced, I ask the guys at the shop to balance them with no weights on the outside if they could, they road force balanced them and used standard knock on weights on the inside rim and stick on weights on the inside closer to the middle of the wheel,,,, I hauled the rims and tires over there in the bed of my truck,, when I got home and put them on the car well crud,,,, the stick on weights hit the brake rotors,,,,, are the 14 inch what I should be running??? after mounting tires on the there is no way I could send them back and I already have the set of newish tires anyway,,,, and are there any lower profile brake calipers out there that would be a quick fix?
  18. I bought a 2 part liquid epoxy and a brown epoxy dye for liquids, http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-epoxy it took a very small amount of the dye to color the epoxy, I tried a couple of small doses and it is hard to get it right, mine ended up to dark after all but is hard to see from the front doing this I did not need to paint
  19. New seat covers a couple of years ago but they are factory look alikes, new carpet,, repainted the center console and the sides of my repro center dash panel, as well as the backs of the front seats, door panels are factory and still look good, as are the arm rest and trim around the windows... Dash pad has been replaced and painted as well with the flex paint. Steering wheel I bought on here with a few small cracks and after filling the cracks and alot of cleaning and polishing it shines, steering wheel center pad is factory but the red emblem is new,,, the car has been garage kept for the last 25 years, that helps.
  20. I agree,,, I'm a little to old school,, course I had another below the dash mechanical oil gauge in for 20 years before this one with no leaks,,, the main reason I went with the mechanical gauge was how it has a wider sweep of the needle, of course the electric oil pressure and temp gauges would match the voltmeter face and needle
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