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72 H-code

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Posts posted by 72 H-code

  1. Hi Pegleg,

     

    When I refurbished my heater box assembly (non-ac), I used spray on adhesive. The gaskets and seals I made myself out of foam. Its not original but they seal and do the job. I had re-used the pads on either side of the core. I just cleaned them up and re-installed them.

     

    Spray- on adhesive can be purchased locally at hardware store or even at a upholstery shop.

     

    Be careful when re-assembling the unit with the rivets as the fibre-glass body cracks easy if too much pressure is applied. Choose rivets that fit snug in the existing slots.

     

    Good luck!

     

    Thanks Marco. Do you mean a heat resistant adhesive? Is the rubber around the heater core glued? Taking my old rubber off the old heater core i saw no adhesive and the longer lengths were coming away. the rubber surround appears to have adhered to the heater core through the cores tempreture.

     

    I did not need to remove any rivets. However, where one of the brackets that attach the box to the car was starting to crack so i used some fibreglass to strengthen it.

     

    Pegleg,

     

    If I remember correctly, on my car the rubber caps around the core weren't glued just stuck due to age and hundreds of heat cycles. As others have mentionned, the adhesive is used to secure the gaskets during the re-install and not used necessarily for sealing purposes. Once the unit is put back into the car and hot coolant starts to flow it will heat and cure any adhesive applied. It may even make the gaskets stick simply due to the heat generated inside.

     

     

    Let me know if you have any other questions!

  2. Thank you for the information guys,

     

    I was asking because I recently bought a FMX that came with this dipstick. I couldn't find any relevant info typing up the part #.

     

    Mine's has D3OP-7AO2O-AA stamped on it. no color mark as it was repainted by PO.

     

    Now, I am on the lookout for a correct FMX dipstick.

  3. Hi Brian,

     

    I too went through the same procedure with a new motor. I simply cut off my original pigtail and soldered it onto the leads of the new motor. Shrink wrap the connections and slip over some protective wiring cover.

     

    The connections if I remember were pretty straight forward, I followed the color coded wiring that came with the unit I had purchased through Rock Auto.

     

    As for paint, I am not too sure about correct color. Someone else will have to answer that question. I painted the plate silver to resemble a natural steel color and also to break up the boring uniform black coating.

     

    Make sure to keep the ground strap clean and free of paint as it needs to contact cowl assembly for proper motor operation.

     

    Good Luck with install!

  4. Hi Pegleg,

     

    When I refurbished my heater box assembly (non-ac), I used spray on adhesive. The gaskets and seals I made myself out of foam. Its not original but they seal and do the job. I had re-used the pads on either side of the core. I just cleaned them up and re-installed them.

     

    Spray- on adhesive can be purchased locally at hardware store or even at a upholstery shop.

     

    Be careful when re-assembling the unit with the rivets as the fibre-glass body cracks easy if too much pressure is applied. Choose rivets that fit snug in the existing slots.

     

    Good luck!

  5. Hi,

     

    If you can remove your steering wheel, I would suggest checking the plastic "cam" piece that actuates the flasher contact when you pull up or down on the turn signal lever.

     

    I had replaced mine but forgot to properly orient the springs and it caused intermittent contact when the individual flashers were activated.

     

    It is secured to the inside hub of the steering column with a rivet. Be careful when trying to pry it loose as it may break off the stem and cause you further problems.

     

     

    Hope you can figure out your problem!

     

    Marco

    maxresdefault.jpg

  6. OK here is a recap of the booster issue. It turns out, that it was a combination of two points I had overlooked last week.

     

    #1. The booster push-rod required adjustment and we made sure that the reaction rubber disk was present inside the "slot".

     

    #2. I found excessive play in the connection of the brake pedal pin to the eyelid of the booster valve rod. I installed a plastic bushing in the eyelid. Made it even tighter by wrapping hockey tape around the outside of the bushing to ensure absolute zero play. See pic.

     

    Brakes were then bled and we made last minute adjustments to the rear drums.

     

    Took it out for a test-drive in our neighborhood: what a difference!

     

    Even got the rebuilt transmission (FMX) to unlock ( the governor was stuck) by hard driving.

     

    In all, it was a great weekend solving problems!

     

    WP_20180530_21_16_50_Pro_5459.jpg

  7. I'm not all that familiar with aftermarket steering wheels.

     

    You have to make sure that the spring loaded pins on the steering column are not connecting together in any way. That closes the circuit and causes the horns to blow.

     

    Maybe the contact point on the steering wheel hub mount is shared between both pins causing the circuit to close when you install your steering wheel.

     

    On the OEM horns there are two round separate copper plates at the back of the steering wheel each connected to a separate terminal and the two terminals are connected to the horn switch.

     

    Just my two cents!

  8. I have also had good experiences with them. Just make sure you do your research on your end to make sure the part your looking for actually fits your vehicle (right spec and everything).

     

    Their shipping is also pretty good especially considered where I'm from.

     

    Their customer service is pretty efficient and straightforward too.

    I've had to return one part last year and that was an ignition control module for another classic I own. (they paid return shipping)

     

    Overall, I recommend them.

  9. It could be the valve rod, wrong one and too short. Unless you changed your pushrod, it has to be something wrong in the booster, wouldn't be the first new or remanufactured one that is messed up.

     

    My gut is telling me that too. Its not due to anything past the booster. Nope I did not touch the valve rod or the pushrod those came with the unit when purchased a while ago.

     

    i will remove the booster and check it out thoroughly and post some pictures.

     

    Thanks again Don for your opinion.

  10. There appears to be something wrong with the booster. Maybe this thread will help you to understand how it's supposed to work

    https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-proportioning-valve?pid=297715#pid297715

     

    Ok, did not see the rubber reaction disk unless it was wedged or fell inside the booster. That is interesting.

    Would it still explain why there's a slack travel. Or its got to do with the valve rod?

     

    Thanks for sharing that post!

  11. If your drum brakes are not adjusted out to where they just give you a hint of drag you can have excess pedal travel.

     

    As far as the pushrod goes, you should be good to go as long as it has a tiny bit of play before it engages with the master cylinder.

     

    I forgot to mention that the rear drums were adjusted accordingly, just slight drag. I had to do that to get the parking brake to operate properly.

     

     

    Should the pushrod move out when you barely touch the brake pedal? 

     

    IMO , I get the feeling the other rod (eyelid) attached to the pedal assembly inside the car is not working properly/too short could this be possible?

     

    In that its traveling before it contacts the rubber plunger inside the booster. > that would explain the slack and why there is no movement of the pushrod at the master cylinder end.

     

    clueless.....

  12. Hello everybody,

     

    Been doing some research on the forum about this issue I've been having with my brake pedal travel.

     

    I noticed that I have about an inch maybe more of just pedal slack. (The brakes are not engaging whatsoever front/rear)

     

    My system is completely stock from booster to calipers (mostly new-repro)

     

     

    Last night after reading older threads on the subject, I adjusted the booster push rod as per the specs in the service manual. Unfortunately it didn't change anything, as I still have the same amount of slack in the pedal.

     

    However,  I did notice that the rubber plunger (inside the booster when looking through the hole where the adjustable push rod is located) wasn't moving when my brother was moving the pedal back and forward in the "slack zone".

     

    Interestingly, I have another booster that when I engage the rod on the pedal end (The side of the booster inside the car) it immediately moves the rubber plunger inside of it.

     

    I'm confused right now and I would like to know if anyone else has experienced this issue before.

     

    All input appreciated!

    Thanks

  13. Cobra Jet sells cars.

     

    Don't expect a used car salesman to miss an opportunity for a sale, regardless if it's technically "correct" or not.

     

    Dollars to donuts, much of the info on the web is incorrect anyway, even the VIN decoders. Heck, even the one here incorrectly lists the H-code as a ram air engine.

     

    https://www.7173mustangs.com/misc.php?page=1973

     

    In 1973, 351 H-codes were the only engines to receive the ram air option w/ 2bbl carburetor.

    Moreover, the 4v (Q-codes) didn't get the ram air due to emission regulations.

  14. Hi and welcome from Canada!

     

    Working on a classic is a great learning experience, and best of all you can afterwards say that you did it yourself!

     

    I'm sure many agree that this site is a great resource to all vintage Mustang enthusiasts!

     

    All the best with your project!

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