Jump to content

Bill73Ragtop

Site Supporters
  • Posts

    1,405
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Bill73Ragtop last won the day on July 24 2020

Bill73Ragtop had the most liked content!

About Bill73Ragtop

  • Birthday 03/22/1952

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1969 Convertible Restomod enhanced.
    former owner (25 yrs) of 1973 Convertible, 351c, A/C, RA

Location

  • Location
    Buffalo, NY
  • Region
    Northeast

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Bill73Ragtop's Achievements

Mentor

Mentor (12/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

64

Reputation

  1. Since 71-73 cars did not come equipped with ECU's its pretty much a custom job. You will need to determine where the ECU will fit under the dash. The size of the wire loom will determine the size of the firewall grommet and where that will best fit. Holley EFI wiring looms are huge as are loom sizes when retro fitting something from the 90's and up. Is the ECU (and the loom) shielded from heat / electronic sources? Are you going to use the ECU wiring looms as they are made by the manufacturer or are you going to custom terminate each wire in the loom? Does the ECU need easy access to plug in diagnostic leads? These are all basic questions that need to be considered when determining where to locate the ECU and where to route the looms.
  2. You should include a supply of new copper washers for the stud nuts. Also, get a friend to help lift the unit into position.
  3. Probably the most useful all around tool on my work bench
  4. I've always found this 'Painter's 5-way' tool extremely useful to carefully tap between housing and third member unit to break the sealant bond.
  5. Eckler's bought out Mac's a few years back. They still use the warehouse facility in Lockport, NY for local pickup, but most items come out of their southern warehouse.
  6. Don't brace your elbows on the top of the fenders when lifting out the heads....even with fender covers. I did it once without thinking about it and the resulting dents were painful to see.
  7. Interesting write up. I have to wonder if the excessive force required was in some part due to the age of the 'rubber compound' sandwich. Photo also shows a bit of what appears to be corrosion between rubber and steel which would certainly increase the adhesion. The original push/pull force required may have been considerably less when the components were only 1-2 yrs old (which was probably the design intent) Austin; glad to hear you are enjoying retirement.
  8. I'm following this write up with interest since doing the HRPT remains on my 'to-do' list. Last year I had registered for the long-haul but as we know it was not to be. Decided not to do this year's tour thinking the late August high mid-west temps are not in my comfort range these days. I'm curious as to how many cars the HRPT is seeing this year as compared to 2019 and earlier. Keep up the good notes and pics!
  9. Dental floss also works to pull out the barrel clips
  10. Nothing like a properly tuned and running carb to get the beast ready to roar! Glad to hear you folks are getting the opportunity to finally participate in a show. Looking forward to pics from the event....weather permitting.
  11. Great write up for an unforgettable driving excursion with mustangs being driven they way they should be on fun rides. I'm sure there are many of us reading your journey notes who are very envious of the trip. Well done!
  12. Back in the mid 90's I donated my late build (June 1973) 73 convertible original 351C / C6 transmission lines to Classic Tube when I found their initial stainless steel lines did not match the original configuration. They said they would hang them in their template room. Classic Tube is located here in WNY. They adjusted in the incorrect lines to match the original. The bend at the transmission end was wrong. My original lines used a brass fitting for the 90 deg bend. The SS bend was too large of an arc and rubbed against the the tunnel. The biggest issue I hear is for those who require shipping, they fold the lines to fit a box for shipping and you need to carefully unfold them.
  13. I can recall this as a common problem. Constantly sliding it closed. Try wedging a folded piece of paper in one of the slots on the underside. There used to be such things as matchbook covers that were used for all sorts of things (like setting points gap on the side of the road) beside striking a match.
  14. Might be worthwhile to check torque on all bolts related to the spindle. Which will mean dismantling everything and reassembling with lock-tight and correct torque settings. I had a similar issue at one time and found hub / spindle bolts (20310 above) loose. Could not find it or see it on while on lift, but driving over bump created a rattle. You have replaced a lot of components - 1. Lower arms , ball joints, sway bar links and bushings , shocks and ball joints. - so you will need to carefully inspect all fasteners related to each and ensure they are secured correctly.
  15. I've used them for over a decade with no issues. You can shape the channel for a tighter fit. My understanding is Jaeger Bros is very good at addressing issues with their products. You might want to contact them directly (as well as NPD if you want to return them)
×
×
  • Create New...