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Bill73Ragtop last won the day on July 24

Bill73Ragtop had the most liked content!

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About Bill73Ragtop

  • Rank
    Long time vintage mustang hobbyist
  • Birthday 03/22/1952

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1969 Convertible Restomod enhanced.
    former owner (25 yrs) of 1973 Convertible, 351c, A/C, RA


  • Location
    Buffalo, NY
  • Region

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  1. Check all EFI plug connections -- in fact, unplug and re-connect all connectors to ensure solid contact. I had an erratic issue with my Holley EFI which turned out to be loose TBS (which I could have sworn was tight). I spent triple digit hours and $$ attempting to diagnose issue before finding slightly loose (not snapped in) connector. Best time to reach Holley Help is Tues - Thurs since bookend days around race weekends jam up their lines on regular basis. Have data logs ready when you are making the call.
  2. These are the wire loom routing clips that typically hold the wire to the valve cover brackets. They come in various sizes. Usually the small ones are what's used.
  3. That appears to be only the upper (clock) section of a full console, not a mini console.
  4. About 10 yrs ago after doing a rebuild with new clutch pack, I tried synthetic gear oil (Pennzoil or Valvoline as I recall) with the thought I'll never need to deal with it again.....after putting approx 1000 miles (with no issue) the rear end started grabbing in turns & reverse with noticeable groaning. Driving forward in straight line did not appear a problem. Within a couple hundred miles the noise & grabbing became "time to fix!". The fix was simple, pull the differential to drain and clean out the pumpkin, spray differential with brake cleaner, re-install and fill with petrole
  5. Make sure you use petroleum-based rear end gear oil and not synthetic. Trac-Loc clutches do not like synthetic.
  6. Forget that video. 71 - 73 mustang front disk brake rotors have the hub & wheel bearings incorporated into the design. The most difficult thing is to install new races and bearings (properly greased). Now would be a good time to review the procedure in your service manual. These year brake pads also have a retaining pin and clip to hold them in place. Couple things to keep in mind: don't hang the calipers by the hose, don't over torque the hub nut and remember the cotter pin.
  7. The way things are going with restrictions, you'll have lots of time to work on projects. To replace my 73 vert, decided to go a bit more modern. For some reason, I keep finding blue exterior colors to my liking. Not much needed to do with this one except enjoy the drive.
  8. Adjustment issue. Convertibles are a bear to get the windows to fit. Looks like it's tilted down in the front and may be a tad too far back. You'll need to take off the door panel to access the adjustment points. Rear quarter window adjustment can also be part of the alignment process
  9. Color code your cables and the housing to ensure you get them back in the right slots. In the past, I've been able to carefully spread the slot opening with tip of small screwdriver (just enough to fit cable) & pull the cables out.
  10. Foam has no strength for anchoring screws. Use the metal flange.
  11. Properly welded bung located far enough downstream is highly recommended if you go ahead with the sensor. Clamp-on could have the potential to loosen & develop leak if long term. Probably same amount of effort to install either way so its worth installing bung which (if you are just using to do initial tune) can be sealed with screw-in plug when finished. The ability to use O2 sensor with future EFI depends on the system. Holley uses proprietary Bosch sensor which is outrageously expensive, but is the only one the system will function with.
  12. Geoff: The EBC pads were a perfect match to the SSBC (and LEED semi-met) pads. They are a precise fit into the calipers. That's quite the markup in price from here in the states. Base cost here is $124 plus tax to +/- $130 US. I'll send you a PM, but I could ship you the LEED s-m pads if you want to try them. Since its across the boarder it may take some time to get to you.
  13. Hi Geoff: 1) LEED sells a brake line pressure gauge set, pretty much the same as what Summit sells https://leedbrakes.com/i-23439488-brake-pressure-gauge-kit.html It measures up to 3000psi so it's kinda of a 'one-time' use and into the drawer thing. 2)I got the semi-metallic pads from LEED back in April. Did not make much difference from the barely used SSBC organic pads. My rotors are still in very good condition (machine marks still evident) so I scuffed them with red prep pads to remove any light glaze that may have been present to ensure I was not having issues due to gla
  14. I installed the SSBC front drum to disc on my 69 vert back in 2005. It has never performed or felt close to what the stock 73 disc system provided. I did all that you have done in the past decade - changed all flex lines to braided stainless, changed booster, rebuilt distribution block, changed MC and it still has a hard pedal which feels more like manual than power. All vacuum tests indicate everything working as it should. Brake line pressure is over 1500 psi at the calipers and 800 psi at the rear drums. Tried a new set of SSBC brake pads (which are organic) and a new set of LEED
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