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sprint72

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  1. Fired on the first crank! Well today I finally gave the Fitech its first try and sure enough it fired on the very first crank.....just need to get a better understanding of the tuning procedure of the handheld, tune the IAC idle steps and a couple of other variables and take her for a ride....but atleast the hard part is over....easy install and the system seems to be much more powerful than my old Projection Unit...well keep you guys posted as I get further into this transition...
  2. In my opinion, any vehicle that hasn't been driven in 7 years is going to be trouble......and as others have mentioned....visually the car just says " major undertaking"........if you've done your homework on the Sprint Series, you know that they are indeed unique mustangs....but you seem to have the most important ingredient necessary in this hobby and that is the desire to create knowing that it won't be easy so....be open to yourself in your assessment of the car and go from there.....definitely don't rush your dream... Good Luck
  3. For anyone considering the EFI move, please please be sure that you have a solid electrical ground scheme in your cars......at a minimum engine to the block, block to the chassis, chassis to the firewall is what I had to do when the old Holley failed to start once ending up sitting in my garage for 5 months going from running darn good to nothing but cranking and dumping lots of fuel!.......UNTIL.....one morning I sat reading a Ford MotorSports Magazine when I ran across an article entitled " Get Grounded For EFI".....I read it simply because I had run out of ideas trying to solve my mysterious problem and sure enough when I ventured out to the garage to determine whether or not my grounding scheme under the hood was satisfactory, I found out that while I'd upgraded "stuff" to an old school car, I hadn't given grounding any consideration.....I configured my negative grounding network as the article stated an BINGO!!! engine started and ran perfectly....I imagine that the basic setup of battery to the block had run its course so please be sure to verify that your setup is grounded for success!
  4. Fitech First Start Coming Tomorrow! Well guys it looks like tomorrow should give me a chance to attempt the first start of the Go Street 400 Fitech system I'm converting to from the Holley Projection 670cfm system I installed back in 1994.....I had decided to convert to the newer self learning system, albeit after much consideration since the days of fighting with the Holley system that seemingly always had me chasing the right fuel curve for across the board performance at times...at some point I dialed it in pretty close and the overall performance was good.instant starts every time and reliable for 23 years..yet the Holley system ( 670cfm 2Di unit) wasn't designed to support more than 275 horsepower, per Holley, but I just felt that there was a great deal of performance left on the so called " table" with that unit and so the decision was made to give Fitech EFI a try....cost vs the competitors, ease of installation and the ability to support horsepower closer to my output and its self learning feature made the decision a bit easier I imagine. But as an older tuner, and one who loves what the 351 Cleveland can do, it still wasn't an easy decision simply because I have wondered this week as I near completion of the install....."if I was happy with what I had, I hope the transition to something better is exactly that"....my daughter recently asked " poppa if it's running the way you want, why then do you always mess with it?", I knew she was right to a degree and maybe trying to find optimum tuning windows has caused me to do exactly that.....not knowing when to be satisfied...I'll share what happens with the start up with you guys when I give it a try.....
  5. Hey Guys.....just want to share a little of what I've learned over the years regarding the " where to set timing question"....although it became a very frustrating lesson for me attempting to fine tune my 351C after the rebuild and subsequently changing camshaft parameters, I imagine the toughest, yet most effective lesson was understanding that anything outside a stock rebuilt requires an extensive trial and error testing procedure to really determine whats best for your application.....here's a couple of things I've learned in the long ownership of my car that got me consistently in or very close to the optimum tuning window with the Crane hydraulic roller cam and overall package setup......automatic trannys seem to like shorter and a bit quicker ignition timing curves....I'm at 15 initial 38 total all in by 3200 rpm gives me the best "overall" street daily driven performance/economy with exceptional street manners regardless of traffic loads and/or temperature extremes....although 15 initial 38 total all in by 2600 gave me the best easily aggressive acceleration without a doubt and seemingly really allowed my engine to reveal the sleeper characteristics of this cam I use...562" intake..586" lift exhaust....with 216/224 duration @ .50..with 112 LSA ....apparently the LSA of your camshaft seems to be a huge factor in how you'll need to set up your timing protocols.....your carb type and cfm is also critical to what your engine will respond well too....so get out your sheet of paper.....try different setups.....varying both initial and total timing numbers..and see what works best for you....one of my favorite setups for timing with my car was 12 initial...40 total all in by 3200 rpm.....great power on the freeways responsive around town...BUT my old holley projection unit never made me comfortable that air fuel ratios, which I couldn't monitor with my setup, were ever really on target for a safe zone and so I backed it down to something more conservative.....but try different things and see how it goes.....also....dont do what I used to.....make the mistake of changing to many variables at once and that had me chasing my tail not knowing which variable of my setup wasn't right.......final tip....until you figure your timing out......be consistent with fuel grades...spark plug gaps...it will help maintain a good foundation to find out what really works for you..... Good Luck
  6. Thank you guys very much for your help regarding my 12 volt source needs....
  7. Hey Guys....I need help regarding an issue I have relative to my need for a good 12 volt keyed source when the key is on and in crank mode....I also have the FITECH EFI unit. Someone told me that the yellow wire off of the ignition switch is hot with 12 volts when in key on and crank mode...can anyone verify this please....I personally wondered if the " I " post on the fender solenoid isn't a good source of 12 volts like I need.....i would appreciate your help.....thank you
  8. Thank you for your reply...i appreciate it and i will try that Good Morning..thanks for your reply...although i tried to avoid cutting that darn panel to gain access to the mechanism i think you're right with your recommendation....take care
  9. Recently the interior door latch on the drivers side broke. Oddly enough on the same door the outer latch became unattached while i was attempting to refuel the car. I cannot get the drivers side door open now! I have tried using a slim jim but it has not worked..Does anyone know if when using the slim jim what direction i need to pull once it's hooked on the latch assembly? I am really trying not to cut the interior door panel to gain access to the mechanism....I'd appreciate any tips regarding this ..
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