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Posts posted by nickstewartroc

  1. spothead


    They state that they are for all models. Unfortunately, they are for the hardtops, or coupes. The fastback have a shorter roof line than the coupes. If you have not modified them, I would look for some originals. You could contact Don at Ohio Mustang Supply or if he does not have a good set, then contact http://usedmustangparts.net/ - Blue Ridge Classic Mustang via, James Van Buren Jr. - He has a lot of mustang bodies.


    BY the way, I found a really good set of seat pans for my 1973 coupe.


    Also, If you do find a good set, I recommend performing this upgrade to the platforms.







    Would it be possible to re-post the link? It doesn't appear to work as the URL is cut off :/

  2. I'm not sure if you can have it shipped over there, but this is what I like using: http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-h2o-guard-gloss.html

    Not only does it make drying the car easier, but it adds a small layer of wax that always leaves the car feeling smooth and slick. I've tried Turtle Wax's wax as you dry and it doesn't come anywhere near what the Guard n' Gloss can do.



    Given my reluctance to do any actual cleaning or detailing that goes beyond washing on any car I'd like a wax/sealant that applies itself. Any recommendations? :)

  3. Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coating Elite Kit from AutoGeek. I would NOT suggest it, it's overpriced, the applicators don't work that well, and the glass protection failed in under a week. The main paint coating is alright. I recently bought a coating from AmmoNYC and their skin sealant I will be applying, comes out cheaper and should work better

    I put a ceramic coating on my daily driver (2016 Fiesta ST) and I love it. Most of the dirt just washes right off, it is MUCH easier to wash, when it rains is washes most of the dirt right off!


    Sounds good Nick,


    What product did you end up going for?



  4. You'll need the installation kit (showed it on the right hand side as suggested too!) Also, it is not just drop in and go, there are procedures you need to go through to have proper gear lash and setting pinion depth as well as torque. A few tools you'll need are an inch pound torque wrench (for the pinion torque) and to get there you have to really torque down the nut. I used a breaker bar and cheater pipe, it needed to be tightened to around 200ft lbs so that when you use the inch torque wrench it has a certain amount of "friction" to it

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