73' mach 1

I like we're this is going because it makes a lot of sense. I just need to understand the jumper idea? I'm not using the factory "S" "I" block. My mini starter has a solenoid on it. As mentioned earlier, I have direct power from the starter to battery and the solenoid directly to that red/blue wire. Is this not correct? What would I need to bypass/ jump? I have a TKO 600 and don't recall any neutral safety switch? I don't believe the factory 4 speed had one either? Can anyone else confirm?

No switch on the terminal. Everything is brand new on this.

Roger that Don, next time it happens I'll be sure to keep a meter with me to check.

I think that wire runs back to the ignition switch so maybe I can tap from there? If this is the case why does it work 90% of the time? Or seemingly only give me an issue when hot?

CVR mini torque starter has 2/0 wire going directly to the battery and the small terminal which I think is a jumper to the solenoid on the starter is soldered to the red/blue strip wire that was on the factory solenoid.

I started asking about this earlier but every once in a while I'll run into a not start condition. When I mean not start I mean when I turn the key into the 1st position the dash comes up and the fuel pump primes (I'm fuel injected) but when I go to start its like someone removed the battery from the car. All the power is still there though. This would be after I've driven the car for awhile. After letting it sit I will eventually fire up fine. I want to say it's heat related but I'm not 100% sure. I have a CVR mini torque starter with the solenoid attached. I have a terminal block under my dash that has my Holley sniper, hyperspark dizzy and CD box all connected to the cranking wire off my ignition switch. I bought a new ignition switch being this one is original guessing it might be it? Also, it was a factory 4 speed and is now a 5 so there is no reverse lock for the column. What position should that part of the colum be rotated at? Is that only for the key lock or could that have something to do with it also? I don't think my starter is getting heat soaked. Like I said if I turn the key to crank it doesn't make any noise at all to start but power is there...

I'm running a 408, 5 speed (.82), 3:89's with a 27" tire. 1st gear is pretty useless. I'm running nitto 555R II's and can blow the tires away with ease at the top of 2nd. Haven't tried 3rd yet. I don't race the car but it is fun to drive around town.

Me and a couple of guys from work on Friday.

Unfortunately Don I don't have that information. My builder seems to have disappeared. Knowing that things would have to come apart after just going together isn't going to happen. This will have to get addressed the next time things come apart.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/

Just info on mine. I'm running EFI controlled. 2 12" spal that are about 3200 cfm total. I'm running a 185 stat with 1 fan turning on at 195 and the 2nd at 200. Car will hit 200 sitting at a light on 90+ day but will cool itself down. Never goes above 200 and mine is a mild built 408c. Do you have the right type stat in? Bypass plate? 160 seems like a low stat. Clevelands like a lil heat.

It's been a long 4.5 years putting this together. She did awesome on the dyno and runs awesome on the street. Think I'm just going to drive it until she gives me a reason not to. If she wants to mark her territory everywhere she goes...so be it.

As far as these things go how bad does it look? Is there anything better I could do for crankcase ventilation? Might not even be a problem to begin with. Guess there is really know way of telling how long my clutch has huh?

Just when everything was awesome... Well here we go again. I've posted in the past and found my oil pan was infact leaking from the rear bolts against the bell. Sealed that up the best I could and thought I had it. Decided to take a peak inside the bell with my cheap camera scope and found this.. Don't know how boned I am here but I can't see it leaking from the bearing so I guess it's the rear main. Crankcase still needs to be checked but unless I have the wrong spring PCV valve I can't see it as a problem. I have a breather on the otherside. If all is lost I'm just going to drive it until the clutch starts to slip...

I like it! 👍 18's are where it's at for these cars.