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73' mach 1

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Everything posted by 73' mach 1

  1. For what it's worth I have the TKO 600 and I'm using a Lakewood bell that I believe is for an 85 mustang. It doesn't require a spacer and I'm using a Malwood hydraulic clutch.
  2. I'm a believer. I was so worried I was going to be disappointed in the numbers my 408 would make with those heads. Love telling people the power she made on stock oc heads!
  3. Also just to add that my heads are 4V open chambered. I believe it was @Don C that mentioned how oc heads flow better on a stroker.
  4. Ok guys, just got the old girl back. I had a phone conversation with several emails with John from opentracker. Awesome guy to talk to and was more that happy to give me the info needed without a penny for service or parts. Had my alignment guy take the upper control arms off and rotate its shaft such that it moved the two bolts that go through the shock tower towards the firewall. From there we added washers to the upper control arm bolt towards the radiator. After these adjustments were got between 4-5 degrees of positive caster. She's actually rides like a sports car now. Not saying she's a BMW but I can hit bumps on the road now and she stays straight! Response is very nice and can make turns with one hand again. She still doesn't snap back to center like a new car but the overall feel is night and day from what it was.
  5. Was working on a detail in my garage and couldn't help to notice how hot she looked parked on the side. Mighty fine!
  6. I have to find out what actually specs my alignment guy aligned to but my wheel doesn't return at all. I have the 12.7:1 fast ratio box from powersteering.com and a hydraboost setup. The steering is super responsive with possibly too much assist. I'd to drive it with the steering wanting to pull back to center more. I feel everything might be exaggerated with the 14" wheel. I already have one of the smaller flow valves in my GM type 2 pump. The next step would be to install a heidt's adjustable valve between the hydraboost and box. I figured I'd start with alignment. I'm using 18x8 with 245/45's on the front. The front suspension has all factory replacement parts with Eaton springs cut for 1" drop and bilstein sport shocks. Anyone have recommendations on alignment specifications? Thanks
  7. Yes when the trans is in neutral the switch shorts. It was suggested by MDL to use a relay.
  8. Looked into it and it looks like I'm going to have to run that NSS through a 12V relay.
  9. Agreed. Could I just put the TKO NSS in series with the ignition solenoid red/blue wire?
  10. I'll have to look at the wires I tucked away at the battery. There are 2 red with blue? I have one going to the solenoid of my starter.
  11. So the only two wires I'm using from the original starter solenoid is the red/blue I mentioned and the 12V fused link that I have going to a power distribution block off the battery. Everything else is wrapped up and tucked away. I didn't need the coil wire since I'm using the full hyperspark ignition with my Sniper. So would the guess be here that the solenoid on the starter is getting too hot. Or maybe that red/blue wire is causing higher resistance? With regards to the NNS. I did locate the NNS on the TKO which is on the drivers side rear. Right now the connector is not connected to anything. If I wanted to use it what would I connect it to? If I don't want to use it do I just jumper the two wires together? What does the system think it is in its current state not connected to anything? My reverse light is just a two wire. Guessing the auto cars had 4. 2 for reverse and 2 for NNS?
  12. I like we're this is going because it makes a lot of sense. I just need to understand the jumper idea? I'm not using the factory "S" "I" block. My mini starter has a solenoid on it. As mentioned earlier, I have direct power from the starter to battery and the solenoid directly to that red/blue wire. Is this not correct? What would I need to bypass/ jump? I have a TKO 600 and don't recall any neutral safety switch? I don't believe the factory 4 speed had one either? Can anyone else confirm?
  13. No switch on the terminal. Everything is brand new on this.
  14. Roger that Don, next time it happens I'll be sure to keep a meter with me to check.
  15. I think that wire runs back to the ignition switch so maybe I can tap from there? If this is the case why does it work 90% of the time? Or seemingly only give me an issue when hot?
  16. CVR mini torque starter has 2/0 wire going directly to the battery and the small terminal which I think is a jumper to the solenoid on the starter is soldered to the red/blue strip wire that was on the factory solenoid.
  17. I started asking about this earlier but every once in a while I'll run into a not start condition. When I mean not start I mean when I turn the key into the 1st position the dash comes up and the fuel pump primes (I'm fuel injected) but when I go to start its like someone removed the battery from the car. All the power is still there though. This would be after I've driven the car for awhile. After letting it sit I will eventually fire up fine. I want to say it's heat related but I'm not 100% sure. I have a CVR mini torque starter with the solenoid attached. I have a terminal block under my dash that has my Holley sniper, hyperspark dizzy and CD box all connected to the cranking wire off my ignition switch. I bought a new ignition switch being this one is original guessing it might be it? Also, it was a factory 4 speed and is now a 5 so there is no reverse lock for the column. What position should that part of the colum be rotated at? Is that only for the key lock or could that have something to do with it also? I don't think my starter is getting heat soaked. Like I said if I turn the key to crank it doesn't make any noise at all to start but power is there...
  18. I'm running a 408, 5 speed (.82), 3:89's with a 27" tire. 1st gear is pretty useless. I'm running nitto 555R II's and can blow the tires away with ease at the top of 2nd. Haven't tried 3rd yet. I don't race the car but it is fun to drive around town.
  19. Me and a couple of guys from work on Friday.
  20. Unfortunately Don I don't have that information. My builder seems to have disappeared. Knowing that things would have to come apart after just going together isn't going to happen. This will have to get addressed the next time things come apart.
  21. Just info on mine. I'm running EFI controlled. 2 12" spal that are about 3200 cfm total. I'm running a 185 stat with 1 fan turning on at 195 and the 2nd at 200. Car will hit 200 sitting at a light on 90+ day but will cool itself down. Never goes above 200 and mine is a mild built 408c. Do you have the right type stat in? Bypass plate? 160 seems like a low stat. Clevelands like a lil heat.
  22. It's been a long 4.5 years putting this together. She did awesome on the dyno and runs awesome on the street. Think I'm just going to drive it until she gives me a reason not to. If she wants to mark her territory everywhere she goes...so be it.
  23. As far as these things go how bad does it look? Is there anything better I could do for crankcase ventilation? Might not even be a problem to begin with. Guess there is really know way of telling how long my clutch has huh?
  24. Just when everything was awesome... Well here we go again. I've posted in the past and found my oil pan was infact leaking from the rear bolts against the bell. Sealed that up the best I could and thought I had it. Decided to take a peak inside the bell with my cheap camera scope and found this.. Don't know how boned I am here but I can't see it leaking from the bearing so I guess it's the rear main. Crankcase still needs to be checked but unless I have the wrong spring PCV valve I can't see it as a problem. I have a breather on the otherside. If all is lost I'm just going to drive it until the clutch starts to slip...
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